Chrysanthemums indoor planting and care in the open field

I decided this year to grow chrysanthemums from seeds. I already have one adult bush - in the fall I transplanted it into a pot for wintering in the basement. Tell me when is the best time to plant a chrysanthemum from a pot in the open ground?

Chrysanthemums can be found in almost every flower bed. They deserve love from flower growers due to abundant and long flowering, as well as unpretentious care.

The finished plant can be purchased at a flower shop, or you can grow it yourself by seedling or by grafting shoots taken from neighbors. With proper care, young seedlings or cuttings rooted in pots will eventually develop into full-fledged bushes. And here comes one of the main moments - planting the chrysanthemum from the pot into the open ground.

In order for the chrysanthemum to quickly take root and delight with its flowering already in the first year, you should pay attention to some points related to the transplant:

• choose the right time and place;
• prepare the soil;
• take care of the bush regularly;
• carry out periodic feeding.

Time and place for planting chrysanthemums

Both young chrysanthemums and bushes that have been dug up and planted in a pot for wintering indoors should be planted in open ground no earlier than the soil warms up. The optimum temperature of the earth layer to a depth of 20 cm is 14 degrees Celsius. Depending on weather conditions, the estimated disembarkation time is the end of May.

Chrysanthemum must be planted after the night frosts have ended. It is better to do this in the morning or in cloudy weather.

For lush flowering and the formation of large inflorescences, chrysanthemum requires good lighting, so you should avoid shady places. In addition, the site must be protected from wind and drafts. It is also not recommended to plant a plant in lowlands, where moisture accumulates - this leads to decay of the root system and further death.

Soil selection and preparation

Chrysanthemums grow best on loose, fertile soil with neutral acidity.

Clay or sandy soil should be fertilized with organic matter (humus).

In the selected area, make holes with a distance of 50 cm from each other - for large varieties, and 30 cm - for other species. The depth of the planting pit depends on the size of the root system of the chrysanthemum (the roots should be free), but it is not necessary to deepen too much, since the roots of the plant do not develop deeper. Pour some sand into each hole and pour over it.

Caring for planted chrysanthemums and feeding

Further planting care includes:

• regular watering directly under the root with settled water;
• loosening the soil after watering;
• removal of weeds.

In order to form a beautiful bush, young seedlings are pinched.

To fertilize planted chrysanthemums, organic matter and complex preparations are used. In order to prolong flowering, phosphorus fertilizing is used. In just a season, it is enough to make three dressings.

Spring transplant of chrysanthemum with reproduction - video

It is difficult to imagine an autumn flower garden without perennial chrysanthemums. Their multicolor pleases the eye when the leaves on the trees have already flown, and there are simply no other garden flowers. Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums have their own nuances, but they are not particularly difficult.

Varieties and types

These perennial plants with flowers collected in baskets differ in both the height of the bushes and the size of the flowers and their color.

Alpine chrysanthemum.

These are low-growing bush chrysanthemum flowers. A view for placement on an alpine hill, since the height of the plant does not exceed 14 cm. Its leaves are pinnately dissected, gray-green, the flowers look like single baskets with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm. Flowering in the middle of summer. Hibernates without shelter.

Korean chrysanthemum.

It is this chrysanthemum that is most often grown in regions with frosty winters. Despite the fact that she comes from southern countries (Korea, Japan, China), the ups and downs of our climate withstands well, although it needs shelter.

Interesting varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements:

• Altyn Ai. The bush is no higher than 60 cm. It bears yellow double flowers up to 8 cm in diameter on strong peduncles. It begins to bloom in mid-August. Blooms profusely and continuously for more than 2 months.
• Dina. The bush is about 45 cm high. Flowering begins after August 10. The flowers are white, 8 cm in diameter. The flowering is very long - up to 70 days.
• Zemfira. Blooms already at the end of July. It blooms for almost 3 months with medium-sized and non-double flowers of light pink color.
• Autumn dreams. It blooms for almost 3 months with yellow semi-double flowers with a diameter of 7.5 cm.

There are also varieties that have not been tested, but no less interesting:

• Bacon. Bright red flowers on a bush up to 85 cm high bloom in September. They are terry, have a diameter of 5 cm.
• Evening lights. Inflorescences are simple red with a yellow ring.
• Orange sunset. Terry flowers, large (up to 11 cm), orange. The bush is about 80 cm high.
• Malchish-Kibalchish. A low-growing plant, no higher than 35 cm. It blooms with simple pink flowers in late summer.
• Umka. Tall, up to 110 cm, the bush is decorated with large pompom flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, white or slightly pinkish.
• Stranger. Winter-hardy variety, blooming from the end of July. White at first, large flowers are gradually painted at the tips in a lilac color.
• Inspiration. Flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, double, have a scent. Bloom in September. Differ in winter hardiness.

A special place is occupied by border garden chrysanthemums. Their bushes do not grow higher than 30 cm and, without any formation, take a spherical shape.

The best varieties:

• Talisman - beet-crimson flowers;
• Barbara with lilac-lilac flowers.

Perennial chrysanthemums: the nuances of growing

Chrysanthemum is a southerner and few species have been able to adapt to our climate. Fine large-flowered varieties can only be grown in the south. Even the more frost-resistant Korean chrysanthemums can freeze out in snowless winters. A feature of plants is that they do not like wet wintering, so drainage is mandatory for them. Another nuance - the chrysanthemum bush is short-lived and needs to be updated every 3 years.

Landing in open ground

In the open field, you need to grow varieties adapted for frosty winters. Zoned varieties and grown from seeds grow, bloom and winter best.

Soil preparation and site

The place for chrysanthemums is chosen sunny, fully illuminated throughout the day. Even a little shading will inevitably affect flowering, and plant stems will stretch out.It is necessary to provide for protection from the wind. The site should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

• be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except for heavy clay;
• it is good to let water and air pass through;
• have a slightly acidic reaction, therefore it is useful to add peat to the planting pit;
• be fertile - flowering will be scarce on lean soils.

Digging for each square. m make up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils, sand is added for drainage.

You can not bring fresh manure under the chrysanthemums - the plants do not tolerate it.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that their flowering and compliance with varietal characteristics are visible. They are supplied in pots and therefore need replanting. But in the fall, it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant gives all its strength to flowering, and there simply will not be any left for rooting. The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring. In the southern regions it is held at the end of April or in May, while in the northern regions it will have to wait until the end of the return spring frosts.

• Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, on the bottom of which you need to put drainage.
• A handful of humus is added to each hole and the soil is shed well. Chrysanthemums are not buried during planting.
• The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
• It is necessary to provide a support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied up.

Chrysanthemum care

For plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need to be properly cared for. The first thing that is done after rooting the cuttings is to pinch the top for better tillering. After 3 weeks, the pinching is repeated, forming a spherical shape of the bush. If the cuttings are obtained late, this operation is not necessary, such chrysanthemums are grown in a single-barrel culture. During the growing season, regular weeding, loosening of the soil, watering and feeding will be required.

Watering the plant

Chrysanthemums are sensitive to a lack of moisture, from this the stems become woody, and you cannot get full flowering. Excess water is also harmful - it promotes root rot. Therefore, you need to strive for the golden mean and focus on weather conditions. Watering is especially needed in dry weather and during flowering. Watered with settled water and only at the root.

Top dressing and fertilization

Feeding chrysanthemums requires both mineral and organic.

1. Every 2-3 weeks they are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizer. In the first half of the growing season with a predominance of nitrogen, in the second - phosphorus and potassium at the rate of 40 g per ten-liter bucket (this amount is enough for 2 sq. M of plantings).
2. 3 times per season, feeding is carried out with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Each plant will require a liter of solution.

All dressings are combined with watering with clean water. The next day, the soil must be loosened.

Post-flowering care and preparation for winter

This is the time to prepare for winter. In order for the wintering to be successful, a number of activities need to be carried out.

• Plants are fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
• The bushes are pruned, leaving about 15 cm of the stem.
• They sprinkle with earth brought from another part of the site so as not to expose the roots.
• Cover with a layer of dry leaves up to 40 cm thick.
• Cover the top with a material that traps snow - spruce branches or dry branches.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums are short-lived. In the third year, the middle of the bush falls out, and the flowers become smaller.

To renew the bushes and give them new life, the chrysanthemum is divided and planted in a new place.

Transplant time is spring. The bush must be carefully dug out, shaking off the ground a little. Divide the plants with a sharp knife. Each section should have kidneys and roots. Further actions are the same as when planting cuttings.

Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemum

Perennial garden chrysanthemums reproduce by dividing the bush, cuttings and sowing seeds. The latter plants will be best adapted to the climate of the growing area.

1. Seeds for seedlings are sown in early March in a mixture of the following composition bought in a store or prepared independently: garden soil, peat and humus in equal quantities.
2. Drainage is placed on the bottom of the sowing container.
3. Perennial chrysanthemum seeds are sown superficially, slightly pressing them to the ground.
4. The container is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 25 degrees.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the bag is not removed, but they do it gradually, accustoming the plants to fresh air. When the shoots acquire two true leaves, they are dived into separate cups.

Seedling keeping conditions:

• temperature 18 degrees;
• a lot of light, if necessary - additional lighting;
• top dressing every 14 days with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Seedlings are planted in the ground after frost, trying to preserve the roots as much as possible.

With seed reproduction, parental traits are not preserved.

For spring cuttings, you need to dig up the plant in the fall, plant it in a pot and take care of it in winter like a house flower. Cuttings are harvested from young shoots 5 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Placed in a container with sand under a glass jar. After rooting, the cuttings are grown and planted in the ground.

Plant diseases and pests

When growing garden perennial chrysanthemums, you can encounter some diseases.

Fungal diseases:

• gray rot (brown spots on the leaves, covered with a gray bloom);
• powdery mildew (white bloom);
• rust (small specks of chlorosis).

All of them are treated by treatment with copper-containing fungicides, and colloidal sulfur is also effective against rust.

Viral diseases:

• mosaic (speckled spots on the leaves);
• Aspermia (misshapen flowers and speckled leaves)
• dwarfism (small growth, not corresponding to the variety, premature flowering).

There is no cure, diseased plants are destroyed.

The main pests of chrysanthemums: nematodes, meadow bugs, aphids. In the first case, the fight against the pest is impossible. The plant is destroyed. As a preventive measure, the earth is spilled with a solution of phosphamide. For bedbugs and aphids, you can try the treatment with infusions of onion peel or hot pepper. If this does not help, treat the plants with insecticides.

Many growers are very fond of such a flower as chrysanthemum. It is popular and can grow both outdoors and at home. In the latter case, a pot is used to grow a flower. Caring for it both indoors and outdoors will be exactly the same, only unlike garden flowers, the indoor flower is small in size. So how to care for him in a pot? Let's try to figure it out.

Features of indoor chrysanthemums

This flower can be either annual or perennial. It has a branched root system, the development of which occurs parallel to the surface. The leaves of the plant are light green, there are dissected, serrated or notched... A dense inflorescence is formed by small flowers collected in a basket.

Indoor chrysanthemum has a large number of varieties that grow wonderfully at home. Such species differ from garden ones in their miniature size. This is explained by the fact that for growing indoors, drugs are used that stop their growth for decorative purposes.

When purchasing a flower for growing in pots, you should choose a strong and healthy specimen with a well-formed stem and dense foliage. After purchase, the plant adapts for some time to new conditions. To prevent it from contracting diseases from other indoor inhabitants, it is quarantined for several days.

Care

Temperature and lighting

In order for the plant to grow well at home, it is necessary to provide itoptimal temperature conditions... She does not tolerate heat and direct sunlight. The best conditions are cool air and short daylight hours. In order for the chrysanthemum to bloom as long as possible, the optimum temperature for this should be +15 degrees, and the maximum temperature for its growth is within +18 degrees.

Its increase leads to the fact that the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and flower buds dry out. This is especially true for recently purchased copies. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly care for the flower.

Moisture

Indoor chrysanthemum, the care of which is not too difficult, prefers increased air humidity... If the earthy clod dries up, this can lead to drying out of the root system. In order to maintain constant humidity in the room, it is recommended to spray the plant as often as possible. The home flower must be watered abundantly, but in such a way that there is no stagnation of moisture in the pot. During active growth, it should be watered 2-3 times a week so that the soil is constantly moistened.

Top dressing

Caring for a plant at home includes fertilization... A chrysanthemum in a pot quickly takes away the necessary nutrients from the soil, so it should be fed regularly for full growth and abundant flowering. For this, mineral fertilizers are used, for example, a monophosphate solution of potassium, since a lack of potassium and phosphorus leads to late flowering. You can also add other multicomponent additives containing:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

During the growing season, adult plants should be fed with liquid organic matter every 10 days. If the flower grows in poor soil, then feeding is carried out every four days with a solution of a mullein in a ratio of 1:10. This must be done before the plant begins to bloom. So that there is no unpleasant smell from feeding in the apartment, the pot should be taken out to the balcony for one or two days in a shaded place.

Transfer

Indoor chrysanthemum growing at home must be transplanted. Young plants undergo this procedure every year, adults - after a year. Such a flower does not grow well in acidic soil, therefore it is recommended to plant it in garden soil, in which add peat and sand.

The transplant is carried out by the method of transshipment of an earthen clod into a larger container. To make the flowering more abundant, a small amount of bird droppings is introduced into the soil. For prevention purposes, the soil is disinfected by pouring boiling water over it. Once it is dry, the flower can be repotted.

Reproduction

Many growers mistakenly consider a home-grown chrysanthemum to be an annual plant, and discard it after flowering. But this is a big mistake, since the plant can be preserved and subsequently propagated.

This is done in three ways:

• cuttings;
• dividing the bush;
• using seeds.

The first two methods are the simplest and most successful. Planting this flower is a fairly simple process. Many growers plant several cuttings in one pot, resulting in abundant flowering.

Pruning

It is recommended to prune the flower every year. Such a procedure is carried out after it has faded. In winter, during the dormant period, it is placed in a cool place, for example, in a cellar. In the spring, the chrysanthemum begins to start up young shoots, so it should be transplant into new soil... For mature plants, this procedure is not considered mandatory. Collect cuttings for planting in the spring, as soon as the flower gets stronger.

Diseases and pests

The main care is to combat the following pests and diseases:

• spider mite;
• powdery mildew;
• gray rot;
• septoria.

The spider mite is the most likely to infect the plant. This is evidenced by the emerging white spider web.To get rid of this pest, the following measures are taken: the leaves of the flower are wiped with a cloth, which is moistened in soapy water. Also, affected chrysanthemums are treated with drugs such as "Pyrethrum" and "Actellic".

A gray bloom on the peduncles and foliage indicates the appearance of powdery mildew. It usually occurs due to increased humidity in the air. Such plants should be sprayed with a fungicide and placed in a dry place.

Gray rot is characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. In this case, the flower is treated with a foundation, after which it is taken out into the sun and well ventilated.

If the plant has been affected by septoria, then in this case it is covered with a brown spot with a yellow edging. The flower is treated with a foundation and the amount of watering is reduced.

Useful Tips

For lack of pomp, a flowertrim and pinch... This procedure is carried out throughout the entire period of growth. If this is not done, the plant will have a long, unsightly stem.

To extend the flowering period, it is necessary to remove dried leaves and flower buds from time to time. On hot days, the flower is placed in a cool place.

Many gardeners prefer to plant the plant outdoors before fall. It is returned to the pot for the winter.

Thus, it is not so difficult to care for a chrysanthemum. Growing it in a pot should adhere to certain rules and timely get rid of pests and diseases. Only in this case will the flower grow healthy and strong, delighting its owner with abundant flowering.

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Chrysanthemums are garden flowers of amazing beauty that delight us all autumn. Their numerous genus is very diverse. Chrysanthemums belong to the Asteraceae or Asteraceae family. Breeders have managed to breed about 2000 varieties of these beautiful flowers.

The chrysanthemum is called the golden flower. And this is no coincidence. The birthplace of a beautiful flower is the countries of the rising sun - China and Japan. In addition, wild representatives of chrysanthemums had a bright yellow color. Now these flowers are grown everywhere. They won the hearts of many gardeners. Modest flowers will decorate any interior and will be an excellent holiday gift.

Chrysanthemums are both annual and perennial, herbaceous and bushy plants. Depending on the species, they can reach a height of 20-80 cm. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in greenhouses. Garden species begin to bloom in mid-summer and end in late autumn. Also, these flowers are grown as indoor plants.

The color of chrysanthemums is different. There are flowers with white, yellow, pink, lilac, brick inflorescences. The shape and size of the chrysanthemum flower are also different. The diameter of the flowers of small species is about 1-2 cm. Large species have inflorescences-baskets up to 20 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum care rules

Chrysanthemums prefer cool places. They cannot stand high temperatures. But if you follow some rules, they can be grown in the southern arid regions.

Sunny ventilated areas are suitable for them. To prevent water from stagnating in the roots, the soil must be well-drained. Do not forget to regularly feed the plants. During the entire growing season, they are fed at least three times, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. At the beginning of growth, in order to build up the green mass, it is better to use nitrogen fertilizers. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied during the budding period, they contribute to the intense flowering of chrysanthemums.The plant is fed the next day after watering or rain. As fertilizers, special solutions should be used, which should be poured under the root. The first fertilizers are applied 6-8 weeks after planting. Poultry droppings or burnt mullein can be used as organic fertilizers. During autumn digging, experienced florists recommend bringing in peat. Based on 25-30 kg per 1 square meter. It should be remembered that an excessive amount of fertilizer can harm the plant.

Chrysanthemum prefers moderate watering. The plant is watered after the top layer of the earth dries up. In arid places, flowers thrive better than in damp and shaded areas.

Reproduction

There are several ways to reproduce chrysanthemums - seed, dividing the bush and cuttings. When new offspring are received by seeds, they are sown in small pots, dive twice and plant seedlings in open ground. In this way, it is better to propagate small-flowered species.

The grafting method is suitable for all types of chrysanthemums. It allows you to preserve the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. It is best to cut the cuttings in February-March. Young aerial shoots are suitable for this. Smooth cuts are made with a sharp knife. For rooting, use pots or boxes with sand and compost soil. The optimum temperature for rooting is 12-15 degrees. A month later, young plants are transplanted in a larger container, pinching the tops of the stem so that the plant branches better. In warm weather, chrysanthemums are planted in open ground or dripped in directly in pots.

The traditional method of reproduction by dividing the bush is carried out in the spring, carefully separating parts of the bush with 2-3 shoots so as not to damage the root system of the plant.

Three years is the maximum period for the growth of chrysanthemums in one place. Then the flowers become smaller, the plant begins to hurt more often.

Topping

Thanks to the pinching method, the most beautiful chrysanthemums are grown. Large-flowered varieties of flowers are bred, leaving single peduncles and removing the rest of the stems. If excess shoots are removed in a timely manner, the flowers will be larger.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are formed by bushes. When 4-5 leaves appear, pinch the tip of the shoot so that new shoots appear in the leaf axils carrying individual flowers.

Diseases

If chrysanthemums are in conditions of high humidity, they can get sick with fungal diseases - gray mold, powdery mildew, rust or septoria. If the chrysanthemums get sick, the flowers should be thinned out by removing the damaged leaves. After that, they are sprayed with fungicides. In some cases, chrysanthemums suffer from viral diseases - dwarfism, aspermia and mosaics. You cannot get rid of these diseases. Affected flowers are dug up and destroyed.

Chrysanthemum is also susceptible to attack by insect pests. Its main enemies are thrips, aphids, red spider mites. Nematodes cause no less harm to the plant. They suck the juices from the shoots, slowing down the growth and flowering of chrysanthemums. This leads to the death of plants. To combat them, systemic insecticides are used - a solution of karbofos or decis.

Chrysanthemums should not grow randomly. To save flowers, it is necessary to detect diseases in a timely manner.

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