Hosta planting and care in the open field preparing for the winter

Hosta is a very interesting shrub. It does not differ in bright and lush colors, on the contrary, they are faded and inconspicuous. Its main advantage is its lush spreading leaves. She lives well in the shade, so she is often planted under trees as an element of decor. An important factor in caring for a host is preparing it for winter in the fall. If there is a desire for the host to please with her blooming appearance for the next summer, she must be properly prepared in the fall.

Features of care in the fall and preparation for winter

Many gardeners say that the hosta does not need special preparation and specific shelter from strong drops in temperature. This judgment is wrong.

This formulation is only suitable for plants located in the southern regions. Although there periodically there are strong subzero temperatures.

Therefore, caring for hosts in the fall should include a few basic rules.

The plant tends to bloom in mid-late August, depending on the species. Initial preparation for winter involves removing buds that have faded. Such an element of caring for hosts in the fall is necessary so that the plant does not expend its nutrients for seed formation and ripening.

Important! The mulching procedure is carried out when autumn comes. The lower leaves dry out to form a natural layer of mulch. Additionally, you can add a layer of organic matter. For this, fresh wood sawdust, cut dried grass (straw) or peat masses are well suited.

Before spreading the mulch, it must be treated with chemical insecticides. The event is carried out with the aim of eliminating possible pests and neutralizing pathogenic bacteria that provoke diseases. In addition, it is recommended to add tobacco dust to the mulch. It will help prevent slugs and snails from appearing on the flower leaves.

Top dressing is carried out at the beginning of summer for a more lush growth of greenery. The last time for autumn fertilization is the end of August. If you fertilize the rhizomes of the plant after the specified period, then the host will not have time to prepare for wintering by the natural method.

The host loves moisture and abundant watering. Novice gardeners, admiring the plant, plant it in large quantities on their plantations. But watering them, they are amazed at the gradual drying of most of the leaves.It turns out that watering is carried out only on the surface leaves, and the soil remains dry under the roots.

During the autumn months, the host needs watering more than ever. Its soil should be shed 30-50 cm so that the entire root system is saturated with life-giving moisture. After the temperature drops are noticeable, you should gradually reduce watering and stop completely.

In the southern regions, shelter is not required for the broadleaf beauty. The most reliable shelter is mulch and your own fallen leaves.

Thus, the hosta is an unpretentious plant, but responsive to feeding. The main rule is proper watering. If the procedure is carried out on top of the foliage, a disastrous result can be expected.

Video: features of hosta care in the fall and preparation for winter.

Pruning in the fall

The question - whether to cut the host for the winter in the fall - is the cause of controversy among many gardeners. Some argue that cutting the foliage is highly discouraged. After all, it contains all the nutrients that must independently move from the greenery to the root of the plant. At the end of this process, the tops naturally die off.

Other farmers argue that you need to prune the hosta leaves for the winter, but recommend not delaying pruning the foliage before the cold weather. Inside the foliage, on the underside, pests can hide, as well as slugs and snails.

After the leaf itself falls off, they safely burrow into the ground and winter there in warmth and reliability. In the spring, when the first tender green shoots appear, they crawl out and methodically eat them, preventing the plant from releasing at least one shoot.

So should the host be pruned for the winter? Many gardeners still recommend pruning the plant in the fall. The purpose of pruning in the autumn period is considered by many flower lovers to treat shrubs from pests. The main thing is not to delay the process of transformation of foliage from an elastic state to the mucous decomposition of green mass.

But when should you prune your host for the winter? The most favorable moment for pruning is the period when the leaf turns yellow and begins to fit to the surface of the earth.Indeed, at this time, all the nutritional properties are safely embedded in the root system and growth buds at the base of the roots. It is this circumstance that will help determine when to prune the hosta leaves in the fall.

Pruning is best done in the fall than in the spring. In autumn, when old leaves are removed, all the parasites are visible under the layer of dead greenery. They can be immediately treated with chemicals or, collected by hand, subjected to another death.

In the springtime pruning is carried out only if it was not carried out in the fall. It is necessary not only to remove old leaves, but also to eliminate the eaten young leaves.

Usually, the time to remove excess tops is 20-30 days before the first frost, namely the end of October - the beginning of November in the middle lane. A later procedure threatens to freeze bare sections.

Important! Leaves are removed very carefully in the fall. It is required to constantly monitor the trimming procedure. If you cut off the leaf incorrectly, you can provoke mechanical damage to the growth buds laid for next year.

Therefore, the cutting of the leaf must be carried out over the growth points of the plant. Otherwise, if all young shoots have been removed, the plant has every chance of dying.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to apply mineral fertilizers after pruning in the fall. You can feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers as a care for the host at the end of September. They will be absorbed by the root system and set aside for future flowering.

In autumn, it is only possible to introduce mulch of an organic nature, which will serve as a natural top dressing. The timing for each region is different. So, the following mulching times are recommended for different regions:

• The middle zone of Russia (Volga region, Moscow region) - until mid-October.
• Southern regions - last days of October.
• For the Far East, the Urals and Siberia - until October 1, the last days of September are better.

If the cold days have arrived, and the hosta did not have time to cut it off for the winter, then it is advisable to dig up the soil under the bushes to eliminate all pests.

Shelter for the winter

Many gardeners wonder if they need to cover the host for the winter. It is worth knowing that the host is subject to shelter. This is especially necessary in the cold regions of our country. Shelter consists of two stages - mulching and shrub insulation.

How to properly cover the host for the winter? The event should be carried out according to the following technology:

1. All work should be carried out on a warm, windless day, without precipitation.
2. The main condition for carrying out is dry soil.
3. The soil around the bush is scooped up under the base.
4. The mulch mixture is mixed. It consists of sawdust, old grass, brushwood and peat. All ingredients are taken in equal amounts.
5. The batch is poured out next to the root collar, under the very base of the foliage.
6. First, tobacco dust is sprayed onto the bush from above, and then irrigated with a chemical insecticide. This will get rid of pests and diseases.
7. The bush is covered with material specially produced for these purposes or with improvised means.
8. Along the perimeter of the material, from the edges, so as not to damage the growth buds, bricks or stones are laid. This will protect the plant from rodents and strong winds.

Note! An important point in the hosta shelter for the winter is the correct choice of covering material. It is strictly forbidden to wrap the hosta for the winter with roofing material or plastic wrap.

These materials for sheltering hosts for the winter provoke condensation. The latter contributes to foliage decay and rotting. Under such conditions, the plant acquires a fungal disease. The result in the spring will be the complete death of a beloved green pet.

Attention! For shelter, the host for the winter is suitable for agrofiber, spunbond, old burlap. From above, you can additionally stretch the ropes, which are attached to the pins driven into the ground.

Another method of warming involves placing a large layer of mulch under the plant - 15-17 cm. Pine spruce branches are piled on top of the organic top dressing. When snow falls, it needs to be collected and piled on the spruce branches with a large snowdrift. This method of sheltering the host for the winter will keep the plant warm for the entire period of winter frost.

What are the features of preparing hosts for winter in different regions

The southern regions practically do not need shelter. The procedure is necessary if the forecast portends any frost. In others, the host situation winters well in vivo.

In the middle lane (Moscow region) and in the Volga region

Hosta in the Volga and Moscow region can survive the winter without much shelter. In these places, it is enough to heap spruce branches and throw snow masses. If winter with severe frosts is expected, then it is advisable to mulch the root system with a thick layer of peat mixed with sawdust.

Also, cut leaves are applied on top, covering them with pine trees. The latter are recommended to be laid on top with bricks or to pull a tourniquet so that the branches are not carried away during strong hurricanes.

In the Urals and Siberia

Siberia and the Urals are characterized by severe frosts and sub-zero temperatures. To insulate hosts in these regions, you will need all the knowledge and skills to shelter a plant. Be sure to dig up the root circle to remove all pests. Lay the surface with mulch. Cover the top with material for covering plants for the winter.

After the snow falls, it is recommended to collect it and pour it over the insulation. It is important that the snow is not frozen, crusty, but crumbly, fresh. Otherwise, sharp snow masses can damage the shelter and provoke freezing of plant growth buds.

Typical mistakes of caring for a host in the fall and preparing for winter

Many gardeners, without thinking about the consequences, can commit unreasoned actions that harm the growth of hosts. Improper care of the host in the fall and preparation for winter provokes the death of the shrub.

There are several mistakes that are undesirable when caring for a plant in autumn and preparing for wintering:

1. Overdry soil - lack of nutrient moisture will negatively affect the condition of the roots.
2. Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers at the end of September - the time itself is not suitable for fertilization. In addition, nitrogen fertilization entails the activation of leaf growth. Therefore, the shrub will try to release young leaves, and not prepare to go on winter holidays.
3. Transplant hosts - the procedure should be carried out in late August - early September. Untimely relocation and division of the bush provoke a decrease in the protective properties of the bush. They can also lead to a disastrous outcome.
4. Use plastic wrap or roofing felt for shelter... Such materials retain the heat generated by the plant well, but do not allow the oxygen necessary for plant growth to circulate.

With proper care of the host for the winter and avoiding the above mistakes, then you can admire the strong and beautiful plant.

Thus, if you know the rules of shelter, the required pruning and care of the host in the fall, it will respond and actively release gorgeous large leaves. Otherwise, after the first frost, you can not wait for the growth of the shrub next year.

April 4, 2016

A popular deciduous plant of the Asparagus family - the hosta, is a leader in gardening household plots. Due to its shade tolerance and unpretentiousness, its presence is able to ennoble the most secluded places, regardless of their illumination by the sun. Hostu, or as it is tacitly called - a flower for lazy people, is decorated with sprawling lush greenery and thanks to it the plant, even in a non-flowering period, looks great.

In the piggy bank of perennial hosts, there are about six hundred varieties, in which not only the leaves differ in color, shape and texture, but also the buds are famous for their variety. It should be noted that the most valuable part of the hosts are beautiful leaves, and they can be: round, narrow or heart-shaped - from 5 to 38 centimeters in length. The leaves themselves are quite dense, smooth or textured to the touch, shiny or matte, falling from the middle of the outlet, delight with all sorts of shades of green and blue, with a gradual transition to light cream or golden colors.

It is not uncommon for the leaves to adorn narrow or wide edges, stripes, circles of a completely opposite color, which gives a special charm to such variegated plants. Today there are two - and even tricolor hosts, the color of which is clearly visible and remains unchanged until half of the summer. The indisputable advantages of the hosta are decorativeness and shade resistance, given that most of the garden greenery prefers bright sunny places and quite a bit who love shade.

Hosta is one of the few ground cover plants, growing strongly, can occupy large areas - up to a meter in width, survive, almost independently, without requiring extra attention in care and being constantly in one place, becoming more and more beautiful over the years.

Planting and care

When choosing a place for landing a hosta, it is worth considering that for about 20 years she will not need a transplant, feeling comfortable in the shade or partial shade, out of the reach of strong winds and drafts. The plant is not particularly demanding on the soil and can grow on black soil or on sand, however, if possible, it will prefer light loamy soil with a neutral reaction. A hosta planted in sand can grow more slowly, but it will differ in a more saturated color of greenery.

The plant loves moisture, but reacts poorly to dampness and close flow of groundwater, such a neighborhood can become detrimental to its root system. As they grow older, the hosts, with their powerful roots, calmly provide themselves with the necessary moisture and nutrients, and with the onset of "maturity" they completely become drought-resistant.

In general, the plants are unpretentious and do not depend on external factors, with the exception of some varieties, for example, hosts with a bluish color of leaves, which, under the influence of the sun, can change their decorative shade. To preserve a beautiful waxy bloom of foliage, it is advisable to plant them only in the shade or partial shade.

Having decided on the location, it is necessary to dig a wide planting hole, at least 40 centimeters in depth, so that the roots of the hosta can freely accommodate in it. Experts advise to make drainage of small stones at the bottom of the hole, mix rotted organic matter, peat, humus, add a complex of minerals at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water or add fertilizing to each plant by mixing one tablespoon of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate ...

In the center of the hole, build a small elevation of fertile soil mixed with fertilizers and direct the hosta roots along it. Then sprinkle everything with soil so that the root collar is underground, tamp it slightly and several times, at short intervals, spill water well to fill the voids between the roots with earth. It is desirable that the new plant be planted at the same depth as the mother plant. The soil for spring planting must be prepared in advance, that is, from the fall. Organic fertilizers should be scattered in a uniform 10 - centimeter layer over the area, and then dug onto a shovel bayonet along with the ground.

Planting plants can be carried out throughout the season, providing them with abundant and regular watering, but planting in the heat can help to shed foliage. The leafless period lasts on average about three weeks - until complete rooting, and then with proper watering, the leaves will recover, and the host itself will become even better than it was.

In fact, the hosts need minimal care, which involves regular watering, the necessary loosening, timely weeding and feeding. And a good attitude towards plants can transform them right before our eyes: the leaves will begin to enlarge, the bushes will grow more intensively, and the flowers will bloom right before our eyes. In order for a long-term hosta to decorate a garden plot as long as possible, experts advise to be guided by such fairly simple rules:

• do not plant the plants again in the places where they have already grown before, otherwise the new "guests" will be sick all the time;
• the first five years after planting, the host should not be transplanted or divided.

Watering and feeding

For a new plant, morning watering is recommended, at least once every 2 to 3 days, after which the soil should be mulched so that moisture does not quickly evaporate from its surface. After a while, it is advisable to remove the mulch so that it does not cause the open root collar to heat up, which, moreover, can become a refuge for slugs who like to feed on hosta leaves. On hot days, plants need daily watering with water settled outside, since cold water has a bad effect on the root system.

Among summer residents, it is widespread to collect raindrops in containers, the water from which is excellent for further watering hosts or other plants on the site. Experts advise - to carry out regular and at the same time moderate watering, since excessive soil moisture has a detrimental effect on plants. Also, you should never pour water on the hosta leaves, but water it only at the root.If this rule is ignored, then not beautiful spots may appear on the leaves, but blue varieties covered with a waxy bloom - altogether losing their uniqueness.

In hot weather, blue-green hosts can overheat, which will not slow down their appearance, which will be much worse than that of plants living in the shade. Variegated specimens feel comfortable only in the sun, and “mope” in the shade, becoming less attractive or even green.

All hosts respond well to feeding, as soon as they come out of hibernation and before summer, they can be pampered with nitrogen fertilizers, manure or chicken droppings at least several times a month, and with special care so that the plant does not get burns in contact with them. ... Also, at least four times a season, the host can be fed with complex fertilizers. Top dressing is best done in damp soil, after rain or good watering, in the first half of the day, alternating between root and foliar "snacks". Blue varieties should be fed only along the lower part of the leaf in order to preserve the branded wax bloom.

"Enemies" hosts

If morning watering is excluded in the heat, then the evening moisture can provoke an invasion of slugs. In addition to slugs, the enemies of hosts include caterpillars, beetles, snails, which happily feast on the green leaves, leaving very ugly holes on their surface. Caterpillars are capable of completely destroying the entire plant almost overnight. You can save plants from uninvited guests with the help of insecticides or using folk remedies. Try to scatter crushed eggshells over the area or place small containers with beer in the shade, the smell of which will very quickly creep down slugs from everywhere, and then it's a matter of technology to collect and destroy.

Another hazard to plants is stem nematodes. To find them, experts advise finely chopping the hosta leaves into a thin-walled glass and pouring clean water, then examine the contents of the glass in the light. The presence of floating worms in the water will indicate the infection of the plant with nematodes, the fight against which is absolutely useless. Chemical preparations do not destroy eggs that nematodes carefully lay, and next year they will not keep themselves waiting for new offspring. To get rid of this problem, it is advisable to simply destroy the host with signs of damage along with plants within a radius of two meters.

Planting material

It is advisable to purchase seedlings only in specialized stores or from a trusted supplier.

Mainly for sale, hosts are planted in flower pots or in bags with roots in a nutrient mixture. Since the condition of the roots cannot be seen in them, it is worth choosing plants with a well-developed leaf bud. At the same time, a full-fledged leaf that has grown from a bud may indicate a weakened root system, and as a result, the hosta takes root worse and grows more slowly. This is despite the fact that hosts do not belong to fast-growing plants anyway.

It is possible to purchase hosts with an open root system, which makes it possible to examine the roots and make sure of the quality of the planting material. If there are damaged or rotten roots, they should be removed, and the root system should be placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Experts advise planting hosts in open ground around the end of May, focusing on the weather and warming up the soil. If the seedlings were acquired long before planting in the garden, then they can be preserved intact and safe in two ways:

• planting material must be wrapped in a plastic bag and put in the bottom of the refrigerator for storage at a temperature of 0 - 4 degrees Celsius;
• plant the planting material in any container intended for this and water it periodically before moving to the place of permanent "residence".

So that the plant does not start to hurt after indoor conditions, it must be tempered by exposing it to the street a little in a pot. By gradually increasing the time spent in the fresh air, the plant will be completely hardened by the time of planting in open ground.

Reproduction hosts

Hosts can be propagated by seed, dividing the bush, or cuttings.

When propagated by seeds, success depends on their treatment with growth stimulants. The seeds have low germination and it is advisable to soak them before planting for at least 30 minutes in preparations: root, epin or aloe juice. Germination can also be increased by stratification, which consists in placing seeds in the cold for 30 days.

Experts advise using only a sterile substrate for planting, without foreign microorganisms, so that the seedlings do not get sick. The substrate should contain: perlite, peat and vermiculite, and it should be bought in specialized stores. At the end of April, it is necessary to prepare drainage in a container, pot or other container, put a substrate on top, which is well watered.

Then evenly sprinkle hosta seeds on it, cover with a small layer of substrate and tamp everything slightly. Then cover the container with a film or glass and put it for a couple of weeks in partial shade, out of the reach of direct sunlight. At a soil temperature of 18-25 º heat, constant moisture and removal of condensation, seedlings can emerge in two or three weeks. After that, the seedlings must be transferred to a well-lit place and, if there are 2 - 3 leaves, dive into separate cups.

It is advisable to water the seedlings from below, placing the container with the hosta in a deep pan with water and keeping it in it until the top layer of the soil gets wet. For hardening, it is necessary to briefly remove glass or film from the seedlings, gradually increasing this time. Then remove the cover completely, and put the plants outside at an air temperature of 18 and above degrees Celsius. Moreover, growing hosts from seeds is a rather lengthy process, since seedlings grow very slowly, and the end result may result in a host without varietal characteristics.

A more popular way of breeding hosts is dividing the bush, which can be started in late April - early May. During other growing seasons, good results are also possible, provided that the watering is correct. Hosta has a large margin of safety and has a very high probability (almost 100%) of the survival of new plants, while the division of the bush in the middle of summer must be accompanied by regular watering.

When planting seedlings from pots into open ground, it must be well watered half an hour or an hour before planting. If, at the same time as planting, the hosta bush must be divided, then it is divided so that each part remains, at least with one deciduous rosette.

Then, the damaged or dried roots should be removed from the delenki. In the holes, prepared in advance at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other, it is necessary to transfer the seedlings from the pot along with a lump of earth or delenka. Then, having straightened the root system, cover everything with earth, tamp it, water it well and continue to water it abundantly until the plants take root.

The whole process of dividing and planting hosts can be continued almost until mid-September, so that new plants have the opportunity to take root before the onset of cold weather. Usually, for the rooting of "newbies", a calendar month is needed, and in the spring the delenki will quickly grow and in a couple of years your site will be decorated with beautiful adult hosts.

Preparing for winter

After the hosts have faded and wilted, it is advisable to cut off the dried leaves. Also, in the fall, the soil around the plants should be loosened so that the larvae of harmful insects from the ground move to the surface, where they later die.Hosts are not afraid of frost and temperature changes, they do not need protection from the cold and they endure the winter perfectly.

Hosts are considered "queens" of the shadow, because it is the shadow that allows them to become luxurious plants and delight the world around with beautiful bright greenery. And beautiful blue hosts are able to charm with their heavenly blue only growing in the shade. Moreover, it has long been noticed that the more shading, the brighter the blueness of the leaves of this variety, which in the bright sun can turn into a nondescript gray shade.

Hosta is a chameleon plant, the foliage of many of its varieties can change color to such an extent that it is difficult to determine the original and this often misleads novice gardeners. Experts advise, when choosing a favorite plant, to carefully study all the care recommendations and strictly adhere to them, so that it does not turn out that one type of hosta has been planted, another has grown, and after a while it is reborn into a third, just the one that was originally chosen. but, unfortunately, this is not always the case. One thing is absolutely certain, the charming leaves of the hosts are able to decorate almost any area, balcony or gazebo.

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Every owner of a garden plot dreams of making it attractive and unique. Hosts can help with this, planting and caring for which in the open field does not require serious skills and knowledge. This plant is considered unpretentious. It can grow with equal success in the shade and in sunny places. Its colorful, eye-catching leaves bring uniqueness to any flower garden. In order for the plants to fully develop and please the eye, it is necessary to follow a few simple recommendations.

How to fit the host correctly?

Correct planting plays a key role in the intensity of plant growth and development. In this case, several main factors must be taken into account:

1. Location of the host.
2. Soil composition.
3. Landing rules.

Only when all these aspects are taken into account will it be possible to plant the plant so that it will delight the owners for more than one year. To create a beautiful flower garden, it should be taken into account that different host varieties can grow in different ways. Therefore, before planting, be sure to familiarize yourself with the features of the variety you have chosen.

Choosing the best place

Planting hosts in the spring in the ground is allowed both in dark and sunny places. This is largely determined by the plant variety. The main rule in this case is not to plant hosts in the shade of dense tree crowns. In such a place, they stop growing and lose the intensity of the color of the leaves. You can choose a site based on color:

1. Plants with dark foliage are best planted near apple trees, pears, or other trees with a small crown.
2. If golden or white streaks are present in the color of the leaf plate, then they should be placed on the east side under low plantings. With a lack of light, they can lose their decorative effect.

After you decide on the choice of a site for planting, it must be cleaned of dirt and dug up. Try to completely get rid of weeds that will take away nutrients.

Planting a host in open ground in Siberia should be carried out exclusively in the spring. In other regions, autumn planting is also allowed.

Soil preparation

Hosts are not demanding on the quality of the soil. For full development, they need a minimum of nutrients. If sand predominates in the soil, a small amount of peat will be required. It will help eliminate the leaching of salts and minerals.

When the soil is too poor, mineral fertilization is necessary. Today, a wide range of specialized preparations is on sale. When using them, you must follow the instructions and do not exceed the dosage.

Basic landing rules

The method of planting and caring for hosts in the open field will also depend on the type of planting material. It is best to choose instances with a closed root system. It is enough to carefully remove them from the container without damaging the rhizome and plant them in a previously prepared hole.

Plants with an open root system take root less well. When choosing such a planting material, it is necessary to carefully examine the root system. It should be alive, with no signs of decay. After planting such a host in the hole, it is watered. In this case, the plant must be placed so that the bud is above the ground.

Basic rules of care

Hosts that are planted and cared for outdoors require care. It will consist in following simple recommendations:

1. If you applied fertilizers to the soil before planting, then fertilizing can be omitted for three years.
2. In the summer months, watering is carried out regularly as the topsoil dries out. I reduce the frequency of watering in the fall. Water must be poured at the root, avoiding contact with the leaves.
3. Particular attention should be paid to preparation for winter after planting in the ground. To prevent the plant from freezing, it is mulched with dried sawdust, peat or humus. To prevent slugs from eating the young leaves in early spring, add tobacco dust to the mulch. It is better to cut the leaves for the winter and cover the bush with non-woven material.
4. The host grows greatly with good care, so it must be periodically divided. To do this, dug it out and carefully cut the rhizome into several parts, which are seated separately.
5. After the end of flowering, the plant is cleaned of peduncles. This will help him accumulate more strength for wintering.

Planting a host in open ground in the Urals and other regions with a changeable climate requires monitoring soil moisture. Watering can only be done when the top layer of the soil dries out. Otherwise, the root system can rot.

Diseases and pests

An important aspect in the matter of planting and caring for hosts in the open field is the fight against diseases and pests. The most common problems are:

1. Phylostictosis is a fungal infection. It manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves of a brown color. Damaged foliage should be destroyed as soon as possible and the plant should be sprayed with special preparations.
2. Botrytis. With this disease, the leaves quickly dry out and fall off. It is possible to cope with it only with the help of chemicals.
3. Damage by garden slugs. These insects are considered the main host pests. To combat them, drugs are also used. In addition, slugs can be hand-picked and destroyed.

With proper care, the host will grow and develop rapidly. It will be a wonderful decoration for any garden.

All about hosts - video

April 4, 2016

A popular deciduous plant of the Asparagus family - the hosta, is a leader in gardening household plots. Due to its shade tolerance and unpretentiousness, its presence is able to ennoble the most secluded places, regardless of their illumination by the sun. Hostu, or as it is tacitly called - a flower for lazy people, is decorated with sprawling lush greenery and thanks to it the plant, even in a non-flowering period, looks great.

In the piggy bank of perennial hosts, there are about six hundred varieties, in which not only the leaves differ in color, shape and texture, but also the buds are famous for their variety. It should be noted that the most valuable part of the hosts are beautiful leaves, and they can be: round, narrow or heart-shaped - from 5 to 38 centimeters in length. The leaves themselves are quite dense, smooth or textured to the touch, shiny or matte, falling from the middle of the outlet, delight with all sorts of shades of green and blue, with a gradual transition to light cream or golden colors.

It is not uncommon for the leaves to adorn narrow or wide edges, stripes, circles of a completely opposite color, which gives a special charm to such variegated plants. Today there are two - and even tricolor hosts, the color of which is clearly visible and remains unchanged until half of the summer. The indisputable advantages of the hosta are decorativeness and shade resistance, given that most of the garden greenery prefers bright sunny places and quite a bit who love shade.

Hosta is one of the few ground cover plants, growing strongly, can occupy large areas - up to a meter in width, survive, almost independently, without requiring extra attention in care and being constantly in one place, becoming more and more beautiful over the years.

Planting and care

When choosing a place for landing a hosta, it is worth considering that for about 20 years she will not need a transplant, feeling comfortable in the shade or partial shade, out of the reach of strong winds and drafts. The plant is not particularly demanding on the soil and can grow on black soil or on sand, however, if possible, it will prefer light loamy soil with a neutral reaction. A hosta planted in sand can grow more slowly, but it will differ in a more saturated color of greenery.

The plant loves moisture, but reacts poorly to dampness and close flow of groundwater, such a neighborhood can become detrimental to its root system. As they grow older, the hosts, with their powerful roots, calmly provide themselves with the necessary moisture and nutrients, and with the onset of "maturity" they completely become drought-resistant.

In general, the plants are unpretentious and do not depend on external factors, with the exception of some varieties, for example, hosts with a bluish color of leaves, which, under the influence of the sun, can change their decorative shade. To preserve a beautiful waxy bloom of foliage, it is advisable to plant them only in the shade or partial shade.

Having decided on the location, it is necessary to dig a wide planting hole, at least 40 centimeters in depth, so that the roots of the hosta can freely accommodate in it. Experts advise to make drainage of small stones at the bottom of the hole, mix rotted organic matter, peat, humus, add a complex of minerals at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water or add fertilizing to each plant by mixing one tablespoon of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate ...

In the center of the hole, build a small elevation of fertile soil mixed with fertilizers and direct the hosta roots along it. Then sprinkle everything with soil so that the root collar is underground, tamp it slightly and several times, at short intervals, spill water well to fill the voids between the roots with earth. It is desirable that the new plant be planted at the same depth as the mother plant. The soil for spring planting must be prepared in advance, that is, from the fall. Organic fertilizers should be scattered in a uniform 10 - centimeter layer over the area, and then dug onto a shovel bayonet along with the ground.

Planting plants can be carried out throughout the season, providing them with abundant and regular watering, but planting in the heat can help to shed foliage. The leafless period lasts on average about three weeks - until complete rooting, and then with proper watering, the leaves will recover, and the host itself will become even better than it was.

In fact, the hosts need minimal care, which involves regular watering, the necessary loosening, timely weeding and feeding. And a good attitude towards plants can transform them right before our eyes: the leaves will begin to enlarge, the bushes will grow more intensively, and the flowers will bloom right before our eyes. In order for a long-term hosta to decorate a garden plot as long as possible, experts advise to be guided by such fairly simple rules:

• do not plant the plants again in the places where they have already grown before, otherwise the new "guests" will be sick all the time;
• the first five years after planting, the host should not be transplanted or divided.

Watering and feeding

For a new plant, morning watering is recommended, at least once every 2 to 3 days, after which the soil should be mulched so that moisture does not quickly evaporate from its surface. After a while, it is advisable to remove the mulch so that it does not cause the open root collar to heat up, which, moreover, can become a refuge for slugs who like to feed on hosta leaves. On hot days, plants need daily watering with water settled outside, since cold water has a bad effect on the root system.

Among summer residents, it is widespread to collect raindrops in containers, the water from which is excellent for further watering hosts or other plants on the site. Experts advise - to carry out regular and at the same time moderate watering, since excessive soil moisture has a detrimental effect on plants. Also, you should never pour water on the hosta leaves, but water it only at the root. If this rule is ignored, then not beautiful spots may appear on the leaves, but blue varieties covered with a waxy bloom - altogether losing their uniqueness.

In hot weather, blue-green hosts can overheat, which will not slow down their appearance, which will be much worse than that of plants living in the shade. Variegated specimens feel comfortable only in the sun, and “mope” in the shade, becoming less attractive or even green.

All hosts respond well to feeding, as soon as they come out of hibernation and before summer, they can be pampered with nitrogen fertilizers, manure or chicken droppings at least several times a month, and with special care so that the plant does not get burns in contact with them. ... Also, at least four times a season, the host can be fed with complex fertilizers. Top dressing is best done in damp soil, after rain or good watering, in the first half of the day, alternating between root and foliar "snacks". Blue varieties should be fed only along the lower part of the leaf in order to preserve the branded wax bloom.

"Enemies" hosts

If morning watering is excluded in the heat, then the evening moisture can provoke an invasion of slugs. In addition to slugs, the enemies of hosts include caterpillars, beetles, snails, which happily feast on the green leaves, leaving very ugly holes on their surface. Caterpillars are capable of completely destroying the entire plant almost overnight. You can save plants from uninvited guests with the help of insecticides or using folk remedies. Try to scatter crushed eggshells over the area or place small containers with beer in the shade, the smell of which will very quickly creep down slugs from everywhere, and then it's a matter of technology to collect and destroy.

Another hazard to plants is stem nematodes. To find them, experts advise finely chopping the hosta leaves into a thin-walled glass and pouring clean water, then examine the contents of the glass in the light. The presence of floating worms in the water will indicate the infection of the plant with nematodes, the fight against which is absolutely useless. Chemical preparations do not destroy eggs that nematodes carefully lay, and next year they will not keep themselves waiting for new offspring. To get rid of this problem, it is advisable to simply destroy the host with signs of damage along with plants within a radius of two meters.

Planting material

It is advisable to purchase seedlings only in specialized stores or from a trusted supplier.

Mainly for sale, hosts are planted in flower pots or in bags with roots in a nutrient mixture.Since the condition of the roots cannot be seen in them, it is worth choosing plants with a well-developed leaf bud. At the same time, a full-fledged leaf that has grown from a bud may indicate a weakened root system, and as a result, the hosta takes root worse and grows more slowly. This is despite the fact that hosts do not belong to fast-growing plants anyway.

It is possible to purchase hosts with an open root system, which makes it possible to examine the roots and make sure of the quality of the planting material. If there are damaged or rotten roots, they should be removed, and the root system should be placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Experts advise planting hosts in open ground around the end of May, focusing on the weather and warming up the soil. If the seedlings were acquired long before planting in the garden, then they can be preserved intact and safe in two ways:

• planting material must be wrapped in a plastic bag and placed in the bottom of the refrigerator for storage at a temperature of 0 - 4 degrees Celsius;
• plant the planting material in any container intended for this and water it periodically before moving to the place of permanent "residence".

So that the plant does not start to hurt after indoor conditions, it must be tempered by exposing it to the street a little in a pot. By gradually increasing the time spent in the fresh air, the plant will be completely hardened by the time of planting in open ground.

Reproduction hosts

Hosts can be propagated by seed, dividing the bush, or cuttings.

When propagated by seeds, success depends on their treatment with growth stimulants. The seeds have low germination and it is advisable to soak them before planting for at least 30 minutes in preparations: root, epin or aloe juice. Germination can also be increased by stratification, which consists in placing seeds in the cold for 30 days.

Experts advise using only a sterile substrate for planting, without foreign microorganisms, so that the seedlings do not get sick. The substrate should contain: perlite, peat and vermiculite, and it should be bought in specialized stores. At the end of April, it is necessary to prepare drainage in a container, pot or other container, put a substrate on top, which is well watered.

Then evenly sprinkle hosta seeds on it, cover with a small layer of substrate and tamp everything slightly. Then cover the container with a film or glass and put it for a couple of weeks in partial shade, out of the reach of direct sunlight. At a soil temperature of 18-25 º heat, constant moisture and removal of condensation, seedlings can emerge in two or three weeks. After that, the seedlings must be transferred to a well-lit place and, if there are 2 - 3 leaves, dive into separate cups.

It is advisable to water the seedlings from below, placing the container with the hosta in a deep pan with water and keeping it in it until the top layer of the soil gets wet. For hardening, it is necessary to briefly remove glass or film from the seedlings, gradually increasing this time. Then remove the cover completely, and put the plants outside at an air temperature of 18 and above degrees Celsius. Moreover, growing hosts from seeds is a rather lengthy process, since seedlings grow very slowly, and the end result may result in a host without varietal characteristics.

A more popular way of breeding hosts is dividing the bush, which can be started in late April - early May. During other growing seasons, good results are also possible, provided that the watering is correct. Hosta has a large margin of safety and has a very high probability (almost 100%) of the survival of new plants, while the division of the bush in the middle of summer must be accompanied by regular watering.

When planting seedlings from pots into open ground, it must be well watered half an hour or an hour before planting.If, at the same time as planting, the hosta bush must be divided, then it is divided so that each part remains, at least with one deciduous rosette.

Then, the damaged or dried roots should be removed from the delenki. In the holes, prepared in advance at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other, it is necessary to transfer the seedlings from the pot along with a lump of earth or delenka. Then, having straightened the root system, cover everything with earth, tamp it, water it well and continue to water it abundantly until the plants take root.

The whole process of dividing and planting hosts can be continued almost until mid-September, so that new plants have the opportunity to take root before the onset of cold weather. Usually, for the rooting of "newbies", a calendar month is needed, and in the spring the delenki will quickly grow and in a couple of years your site will be decorated with beautiful adult hosts.

Preparing for winter

After the hosts have faded and wither, it is advisable to cut off the dried leaves. Also, in the fall, the soil around the plants should be loosened so that the larvae of harmful insects from the ground move to the surface, where they later die. Hosts are not afraid of frost and temperature changes, they do not need protection from the cold and they endure the winter perfectly.

Hosts are considered "queens" of the shadow, because it is the shadow that allows them to become luxurious plants and delight the world around them with beautiful bright greenery. And beautiful blue hosts are able to charm with their heavenly blue only growing in the shade. Moreover, it has long been noticed that the more shading, the brighter the blueness of the leaves of this variety, which in the bright sun can turn into a nondescript gray shade.

Hosta is a chameleon plant, the foliage of many of its varieties can change color to such an extent that it is difficult to determine the original and this often misleads novice gardeners. Experts advise, when choosing a favorite plant, to carefully study all the care recommendations and strictly adhere to them, so that it does not turn out that one type of hosta has been planted, another has grown, and after a while it is reborn into a third, just the one that was originally chosen. but, unfortunately, this is not always the case. One thing is absolutely certain, the charming leaves of the hosts are able to decorate almost any area, balcony or gazebo.

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We present you taking care of your host in autumn and how to properly prepare your host for winter. We will tell you whether you need to prune the leaves and when you need to prune the hosta. We also describe when the hosta rises after winter.

Do hosts need winter preparation?

There is an opinion among gardeners that preparing the host for the winter does not need to be done especially as it tolerates the cold well.

Sometimes their advice boils down to this: "Stop feeding from August, and the plant will prepare itself." Such a simple approach to preparing hosts for winter is highly questionable.

Despite the fact that the hosta is a rather unpretentious plant, the main factor is the climatic zone in which it grows.

The farther north you live, the more seriously you need to approach winter preparation and care for the host in the fall. Already in the middle lane, preparation of hosts for the winter is necessary.

• For the correct development and growth of the plant, comfortable conditions for wintering are necessary.

Hosta: care in the fall and how to properly prepare for winter?

And now in more detail about how to take care of the host in the fall and prepare the host for the winter. To begin with, after the end of flowering, the hosta needs to cut off the peduncles so that the plant does not waste energy on the germination of seeds.

Next, we feed the hosts with phosphate-potassium fertilizer and treat them with fungicides against pests.

FEEDING HOSTS

The hosta is fed at the beginning of July, and then the last time at the beginning of August. After this period, fertilization cannot be applied so that the hosta is prepared for winter in a natural way.

MULCHING

We fill the base of the bushes with dry humus, sawdust or peat.In addition to protecting the roots from freezing, this mulch is useful for the flower in spring as an additional organic fertilizer.

It is advisable to add tobacco dust from snails and slugs to the mulch, and also treat it with "phytosporin" to protect against fungal and bacterial diseases.

• If you know that you have snails and slugs "frequent guests" and you often have to collect them by hand, then this action is vital for you. After all, slugs and snails can cause serious damage to flowers in just a couple of days.

SHELTER FOR WINTER

From above it is recommended to cover the host with brushwood, branches or spruce branches for the winter. Such a shelter contributes to the accumulation and preservation of snow, which will reliably protect the host even from the most severe frosts.

The main thing is not to use plastic wrap, roofing felt or other moisture and airtight materials as a shelter. So that the plant does not rot and rot.

Do I need to prune hosta leaves for the winter?

Many growers believe that pruning hosta leaves in the fall does not need to be done and the plant should start overwintering with its leaves.

Allegedly, pruning hosta leaves for the winter makes it weaker and less frost-resistant. It is advised to cut off the old leaves of the hosta in the spring, when the first shoots will appear.

However, many experienced growers insist that the host should be pruned in the fall.

When to prune a hosta for the winter?

When pruning hostas in autumn, the main thing is to wait for the yellowing of the leaves and at the same time be in time before the first frost. According to flower growers, pruning hosta leaves for the winter helps to rid it of slugs and other pests.

The editors of the Flower Festival are more inclined towards the need to prune the leaves in the fall, but it is difficult for a novice florist to grasp the right moment.

Therefore, the second method is more suitable for experienced florists.

• If your host grows in several places, then you can try both options and determine for yourself which one suits you best.

Hosta

How to prepare your host for winter? Brief instruction

1. Pruning flower stalks after flowering.
2. The last feeding of the hosts in early August with phosphate-potassium fertilizer.
3. Mulching with dry humus, peat or sawdust with the addition of tobacco dust and "phytosporin".
4. Additional shelter for the hosts for the winter with spruce branches, brushwood or branches.
5. Read more about trimming the leaves above.

When does the hosta rise after winter?

The hosta rises quite late after winter. Hosts are in no hurry to emerge from the ground in the spring and wait for the onset of stable heat.

Gardeners sometimes begin to think that they have not overwintered and died, but the hosts often emerge late and pleasantly surprise, and grow rapidly and rapidly.

• Florists have noticed that the more exotic the variety, the later it emerges. Moreover, it is not uncommon for a hosta growing in the shade to sprout faster than those in the sun.

1. Northwestern District, Moscow Region, Ural: end of May (a week after crocuses have faded). They can emerge in the shade in early June.
2. Gardeners report that in Sochi and Crimea, the host often rises in early June.

INTERESTING ON TOPIC:

1. WHAT FLOWERS FLOWER IN OCTOBER? FOR A GREAT MOOD IN AUTUMN! (+ PHOTO)

2. BLUE PONIES: ANOTHER CATCH?

Now you know how to care for your host in the fall and how to prepare your host for winter, and we are sure you can easily cope with this task.

We wish your garden a successful wintering and good mood all year round!

The host can become a decoration for a small flower garden in the country, and a lawn thought out to the smallest detail by landscape designers. Its peculiarity is that it blooms even better with age. Therefore, preparing hosts for wintering is a very important event. This is especially true for the regions of the middle and northern strip. Indeed, despite the assertion of some flower growers that it belongs to unpretentious flowers, it can die in a harsh winter.

In this article, we will explore the basic recommendations on how to keep the host in the winter.

How to prepare your host for winter?

In order for the plant to remain healthy in the spring, care for its condition must be started in the fall. The main care for the hosta for the winter is pruning and covering it with special materials. Also, a very important point is the right time for these events.

Let's take a closer look at each stage of the work, and also find out what to do is not recommended at all.

When to prune a hosta for the winter?

The entire pruning of the hosta consists only in getting rid of the stem on which the flowers were located. This is to prevent the plant from forming seeds. This will save his strength. The rest of the leaves should not be touched. For several reasons:

1. This will stress the root system. If pruning is carried out in the fall, then the flower will begin to spend energy on their restoration, which will greatly weaken it, and it may die in cold weather.
2. Naturally dried leaves will act as a mulching (covering) material, which will increase the hosts' chances to survive the winter.

Shelter hosts for the winter

Florists who have been cultivating hosts for more than one year recommend using as mulch: dry peat, mowed grass, rotten sawdust or thin tree branches. In addition to their safe function during the winter, they will become an additional organic fertilizer in the spring.

Mulching the soil at the hosta planting site is carried out until all its leaves fall and dry out. A dry, frosty day is best for this procedure.

We do it like this:

• add a little bit of our flower;
• under the leaves, around the hemp from the cut stem, sprinkle the mulching agent;
• pour it with phytosporin and sprinkle it with tobacco dust (this will scare off snail slugs in early spring when the first new leaves appear);
• cover with spruce branches or non-woven covering material (for example: you can use spunbod or lutrasil).

Covering the hosta is quite simple, because you do not need to make any wooden frames, but you just need to cover the flower beds where it grew, and then press the upper material along the edges and in the middle with stones.

What should not be done when preparing hosts for winter?

1. As mentioned earlier, remove the leaves, even after they are completely dry.
2. Apply any fertilizer. After all, the plant must prepare for dormancy, and not for active growth.
3. Use plastic wrap or roofing felt as a covering material. Because they not only retain heat inside, but also do not allow air to pass inside, which does not favorably affect the safety of the plant. They are also a favorite nesting place for mice, rats and other gardeners.
4. Transplant. Despite the fact that the hosta has a strong rhizome, most often it turns out that it does not have time to take root afterwards before the onset of the first frost.

As you can see, to cover the hosts before the cold weather, the use of expensive materials is not required, and all the required autumn care for the flower is quite simple. If the preparation of the hosts for winter is carried out correctly, then your beauty will delight you with her flowering every year.

We present you taking care of your host in autumn and how to properly prepare your host for winter. We will tell you whether you need to prune the leaves and when you need to prune the hosta. We also describe when the hosta rises after winter.

Do hosts need winter preparation?

There is an opinion among gardeners that preparing the host for the winter does not need to be done especially as it tolerates the cold well.

Sometimes their advice boils down to this: "Stop feeding from August, and the plant will prepare itself." Such a simple approach to preparing hosts for winter is highly questionable.

Despite the fact that the hosta is a rather unpretentious plant, the main factor is the climatic zone in which it grows.

The farther north you live, the more seriously you need to approach winter preparation and care for the host in the fall. Already in the middle lane, preparation of hosts for the winter is necessary.

• For the correct development and growth of the plant, comfortable conditions for wintering are necessary.

Hosta: care in the fall and how to properly prepare for winter?

And now in more detail about how to take care of the host in the fall and prepare the host for the winter. To begin with, after the end of flowering, the hosta needs to cut off the peduncles so that the plant does not waste energy on the germination of seeds.

Next, we feed the hosts with phosphate-potassium fertilizer and treat them with fungicides against pests.

FEEDING HOSTS

The hosta is fed at the beginning of July, and then the last time at the beginning of August. After this period, fertilization cannot be applied so that the hosta is prepared for winter in a natural way.

MULCHING

We fill the base of the bushes with dry humus, sawdust or peat. In addition to protecting the roots from freezing, this mulch is useful for the flower in spring as an additional organic fertilizer.

It is advisable to add tobacco dust from snails and slugs to the mulch, and also treat it with "phytosporin" to protect against fungal and bacterial diseases.

• If you know that you have snails and slugs "frequent guests" and you often have to collect them by hand, then this action is vital for you. After all, slugs and snails can cause serious damage to flowers in just a couple of days.

SHELTER FOR WINTER

From above it is recommended to cover the host with brushwood, branches or spruce branches for the winter. Such a shelter contributes to the accumulation and preservation of snow, which will reliably protect the host even from the most severe frosts.

The main thing is not to use plastic wrap, roofing felt or other moisture and airtight materials as a shelter. So that the plant does not rot and rot.

Do I need to prune hosta leaves for the winter?

Many growers believe that pruning hosta leaves in the fall does not need to be done and the plant should start overwintering with its leaves.

Allegedly, pruning hosta leaves for the winter makes it weaker and less frost-resistant. It is advised to cut off the old leaves of the hosta in the spring, when the first shoots will appear.

However, many experienced growers insist that the host should be pruned in the fall.

When to prune a hosta for the winter?

When pruning hostas in autumn, the main thing is to wait for the yellowing of the leaves and at the same time be in time before the first frost. According to flower growers, pruning hosta leaves for the winter helps to rid it of slugs and other pests.

The editors of the Flower Festival are more inclined towards the need to prune the leaves in the fall, but it is difficult for a novice florist to grasp the right moment.

Therefore, the second method is more suitable for experienced florists.

• If your host grows in several places, then you can try both options and determine for yourself which one suits you best.

Hosta

How to prepare your host for winter? Brief instruction

1. Pruning flower stalks after flowering.
2. The last feeding of the hosts in early August with phosphate-potassium fertilizer.
3. Mulching with dry humus, peat or sawdust with the addition of tobacco dust and "phytosporin".
4. Additional shelter for the hosts for the winter with spruce branches, brushwood or branches.
5. Read more about trimming the leaves above.

When does the hosta rise after winter?

The hosta rises quite late after winter. Hosts are in no hurry to emerge from the ground in the spring and wait for the onset of stable heat.

Gardeners sometimes begin to think that they have not overwintered and died, but the hosts often emerge late and pleasantly surprise, and grow rapidly and rapidly.

• Florists have noticed that the more exotic the variety, the later it emerges. Moreover, it is not uncommon for a hosta growing in the shade to sprout faster than those in the sun.

1. Northwestern District, Moscow Region, Ural: end of May (a week after crocuses have faded). They can emerge in the shade in early June.
2. Gardeners report that in Sochi and Crimea, the host often rises in early June.

INTERESTING ON TOPIC:

1. WHAT FLOWERS FLOWER IN OCTOBER? FOR A GREAT MOOD IN AUTUMN! (+ PHOTO)

2. BLUE PONIES: ANOTHER CATCH?

Now you know how to care for your host in the fall and how to prepare your host for winter, and we are sure you can easily cope with this task.

We wish your garden a successful wintering and good mood all year round!