Pear planting and care in the open field in the Urals

Planting a pear, carried out according to the rules, is a guarantee that the tree will fully develop in the future. If you ignore them, you can significantly increase the waiting time for the first harvest, and sometimes this is the cause of the death of the seedling. To achieve a positive result, it is necessary to study in advance the peculiarities of the culture and the rules for carrying out spring and autumn planting.

When to plant a pear in spring and autumn

When planting a pear in spring, the seedling has the opportunity to adapt and take root in a timely manner, as well as to grow a powerful root, which will help it survive the coming winter without any particular difficulties. After planting, the gardener has the ability to control the development of the tree and respond in time to possible problems: drought, pests, diseases.

The optimal time for spring planting of pears is the end of March - mid-April, depending on climatic conditions. In addition, you need to rely on your own observations, since the weather in spring can vary significantly. The procedure is recommended to be carried out when the air temperature is at least +5 degrees, regardless of the time of day.

Worth knowing! The main condition for the successful survival of the seedling is that it should be in the dormant stage.

It is also possible to determine the optimal time for planting a pear using a shovel, if it freely enters the soil, then you can plant the pear in the chosen place.

The correct timing of planting pears is a guarantee of quick survival of the tree. With early planting, there is a risk of frost return, which will cause the roots to freeze. With a late procedure, the tree takes a long time to take root and it is more difficult to tolerate the resulting stress.

In general, it is the northern regions that are more familiar with the spring planting of pears, which occurs at the end of April - the beginning of May, while in the southern regions, where spring is usually early and very warm, it is more preferable to plant pears in the fall, which falls on the end of September - first half of October.

Video: planting pears in the fall

Pros and cons of planting pears in spring

Planting pears in springtime has several advantages. But in order to completely dispel the doubts of a novice gardener, you must first familiarize yourself with them:

1. The seedling has a margin of at least six months to recover from stress and build up a strong root system, which will help it overwinter.
2. In spring, the soil contains a large amount of moisture, which helps to activate all biological processes for the full growth of the pear.
3. Throughout the season, the gardener has the opportunity to monitor the condition of a young seedling and respond in time to a lack of moisture in the soil or in case of signs of pests and diseases.
4. It is possible to prepare a planting hole in advance by digging it in the fall. Then, by the spring, it will completely settle and allow the pear to be properly planted, avoiding deepening the root collar.

In addition to the advantages of spring planting, there are some minuses... These include the fact that the tree in the spring immediately after planting begins vegetation due to the spring heat. Therefore, the pear should direct forces not only to rooting, but also to the development of the green mass, which is not always acceptable.

In addition, in the spring, every gardener has a very busy schedule of seasonal work, so it is not always possible to pay attention to all crops.

But when planting pears in the fall, there is a risk that the seedling will not have time to take root in time and, as a result, will freeze out in winter.

Features and stages of the pear planting procedure

When planting a pear, you must familiarize yourself in advance with all the features and rules for its implementation, since this culture does not forgive serious gardener mistakes. Therefore, one should not deviate from the recommendations presented, and then a positive result will not be long in coming.

Basic requirements for a seedling

When choosing a pear seedling for planting, it is necessary to purchase zoned varieties, which guarantees their resistance to climatic conditions. In addition, it must comply with the main parameters:

• age not older than two years, which can be recognized by the height of the tree, that is, it should be within 1.2-1.5 m;
• trunk thickness should not exceed 1 cm;
• the root system must have at least 3 well-developed roots and must not be damaged;
• the bark should not have any damage;
• the seedling should be in a dormant stage, that is, it should not have signs of the beginning of the growing season;
• the presence of living kidneys.

Worth knowing! If the bark of the selected seedling peels off in places, but does not have pronounced damage, then this indicates freezing of the tree during storage in winter, so you should not purchase it.

Choosing the best place

The pear prefers sunny open areas, therefore, when choosing a place for planting, it is necessary to be guided by this cultural feature. In addition, you should find a place protected from drafts. The tree is able to painlessly withstand frosts down to -25-30 degrees, but taking into account the shelter from sudden gusts of wind.

Important! For the full and timely ripening of fruits, it is necessary to provide sufficient access to sunlight, therefore it is not recommended to plant a pear near large spreading trees.

When choosing a site for planting pears, one should take into account the occurrence of groundwater. They should not be located closer than 3 meters to the soil surface. Ignoring this rule can lead to the fact that after several years of full growth, the pear will completely die as a result of washing out the soil from the roots of the tree.

Respect for neighborhood

When planting pears in a permanent place, the proximity to other crops should be taken into account. This is due to the fact that different plants have different effects on their neighbors.

The pear gets along well only with apple and mountain ash. but should not be planted her near the following crops:

• cherry plums;
• plums;
• barberry;
• cherries;
• cherries;
• viburnum;
• walnut;
• fir;
• lilac;
• hawthorn;
• juniper;
• chubushnik;
• yellow currant;
• raspberries;
• gooseberry.

By the way! Gardeners claim that toxic discharge from pear roots has a depressing effect on cherry roots, but experts do not confirm this fact.

At what distance to plant

The minimum distance between trees in the garden plays an important role for seedlings, since their incorrect placement relative to each other leads to a decrease in the life of the tree and the lack of stability in the yield.

The pear has a lush crown, therefore, as a rule, it is recommendedbetween the trunks leave order 5 metersand the distance between the rows should match 6 meters.

Planting scheme for pears depending on their size:

• for tall ones - the distance between seedlings is 4-5 and between rows - 6-7;
• for medium-sized people - 4 and 5-6;
• for undersized - 3-4 and 5;
• for columnar varieties - 0.5 and 1.25.

Important! Failure to keep the distance when planting will cause the pear over time to oppress neighboring trees.

Soil composition

Pear prefers loose, fertile soil, so loams are perfect for it. In the case of planting a tree in sandy soil, it is recommended to add a layer of clay to the bottom of the planting pit, and when planting in clay soil - sand. This will help the seedling grow stronger and stronger before the main root reaches the unfavorable soil layer.

Preparing the pit for planting

It is recommended to prepare the site for planting pears in advance. It is best to do this in the fall, preparation is carried out 2 weeks before the proposed procedure. To do this, you need to dig up the area to the depth of a shovel, pull out all the roots of the weeds and level the surface.

A planting hole for the pear also needs to be dug during this period so that the soil can settle before planting. It should be about 60-65 cm deep and 70-100 cm wide.

The walls of the recess should be vertical. On the side of the pit, it is necessary to drive a stake from a tree, which will later become a support for a young seedling.

How to fertilize when planting

For full nutrition of the pear, it is necessary to add a nutrient mixture to the planting pit, which will improve the survival rate of the seedling. To prepare it, you must use the following components:

• 1 part of rotted manure;
• 1 part of leafy earth or peat;
• 100 g superphosphate;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate;
• 2 parts of the topsoil.

Mix everything well and fill the planting hole with the mixture to 2/3 of the total volume 10 days before planting.

Important! Nitrogen-containing fertilizers should not be applied during planting, as this can lead to burns of the root system.

Algorithm for the behavior of the landing procedure

Only if all stages of planting are observed, the survival of the pear in a new place will be painless, and this will not negatively affect its further growth. For this, it is only necessary to strictly follow the sequence of actions.

Important! It is recommended to soak the root system of the seedling a day before planting in water so that it is saturated with moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for planting a pear is as follows:

1. Pour 1 bucket of water into the planting hole and wait until it is completely absorbed.
2. Examine the root system for broken and damaged areas, remove them with a secateurs.
3. Cut off the main root and 2-3 lateral roots at a length of 20 cm, which further stimulates the growth of small roots.
4. Place the seedling in the middle of the prepared groove so that its root collar is 4 cm above the soil level.
5. Spread out all the roots and sprinkle them with earth, periodically twitching the seedling to fill the voids between the roots.
6. Trample the ground in the barrel ring.
7. Tie the seedling with a soft twine to the support to fix it in the correct position.
8. Cut off the main pear stem at a height of 80-90 cm, and the side shoots at a length of 20-25 cm.

Video: how to plant a pear seedling correctly

Features of further care

The main requirement for caring for a pear seedling in the future is the presence of a sufficient amount of moisture in the ground. Drying out of the roots during this period can cause the death of the pear. But at the same time, overflow should not be allowed, therefore, it should be watered in the absence of seasonal rains.

It is not necessary to fertilize the pear after planting in the current season, since all the components were introduced during the planting of the seedling. It is recommended to inspect the pear in a timely manner for the presence of pests and possible diseases, as well as spray with insecticides and fungicides, if necessary.

How the time of planting pears varies in different regions

In the Volga region It is recommended to plant a pear in spring in the first decade of April, and in autumn in September - early October, because the climatic conditions in this region cause early drought, as a result of which the tree will react painfully to stress and take a long time to take root.

In the middle lane - in the suburbs it is recommended to plant a pear in late April in spring and in September-early October in autumn, which is the optimal period for this climatic zone.

Video: how to grow a pear in the Middle Lane - advice from an agronomist

In Siberia and the Urals it is worth planting a pear in the open ground in the spring not earlier than the first - second decade of May (very rarely at the end of April), since at an earlier time of its carrying out there is a risk of the seedling freezing in case of repeated frosts. In autumn, it should only be planted in September.

Possible landing errors

Even minor flaws in the planting procedure can cause negative consequences for the pear seedling. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to common mistakes in order to prevent them in the future.

1. The preparation of the planting pit immediately before planting leads to the fact that the root collar of the seedling deepens, and this has a depressing effect on its further development.
2. You should not choose a pear older than two years, since the older it is, the worse it tolerates planting in a new place.
3. You should not be zealous with the introduction of a large amount of mineral fertilizers during the procedure, as this inhibits the development of the root system.
4. Planting should be carried out only when the temperature becomes positive, otherwise the tree will freeze.

The pear is distinguished by its unpretentiousness, so it can be found in every garden. Compliance with the rules and recommendations for planting a tree will help to carry out the procedure without errors, which will make it possible to end up with a full-fledged tree with a large number of fruits.

Video: how to plant a pear using the old-fashioned method

Sooner or later, all owners of summer cottages begin to be interested in the answer to the question of how to plant a pear correctly. The seductive look of its juicy aromatic fruits whet the appetite, and their delicate taste leaves no one indifferent. With the right approach, one tree will feed several generations. To grow and bear fruit on the site, bringing up to 100 kg of harvest, a pear is capable of a whole century. You won't have to spend a lot of energy on the formation of its pyramidal crown: nature itself has created it practically not prone to thickening. And the first fruits from its branches can be removed already at the 5th year of the tree's life.

Varieties and types of crops are diverse. There are tall and undersized pears, common and columnar, early and late maturing. Lipotika, Tonkovotka, Lada, Carmen, Daughter of Blankova, Noyabrskaya, Bergamot, Chizhovskaya - each of its varieties is unique, in some way differing favorably from other varieties, and in some losing to them. At the same time, they need to be planted and looked after in almost the same way. The popularity of the pear is high, but with all its many advantages, it does not tolerate windy and frosty winters. It grows best in the climate of the middle zone, although certain varieties of crops can successfully bear fruit even in Siberia.

Site requirements

Planting pears requires a thorough approach. It starts with choosing a suitable place. The tree reacts badly to transplantation, being sick for a long time. It is highly likely that a young pear will never take root after it, so it is best to place it immediately on a permanent site. It must meet a number of requirements:

• be flat and dry;
• from morning to evening it is well illuminated by the sun;
• do not be blown by cold winds and drafts.

The tree will bear fruit abundantly only if it has enough warmth and light. They are also necessary for the ripening of pears. If the air temperature does not drop below + 15 ° C, in summer varieties (Lada, Annushka, Chizhovskaya), the fruits become ripe in about 90 days.It will be possible to enjoy juicy autumn pears (Decanka, Zabava) in 90-100 days. With winter varieties of culture (Dekabrinka, Extravaganza), you will have to be patient. From the formation of the ovaries to the full ripening of their fruits, at least 110-115 days will pass. These terms are relative and in fact highly dependent on weather conditions. Pears of the same variety, grown in the middle lane and in Siberia, will ripen at different times.

With excessive moisture, the roots of the tree quickly rot. Therefore, areas where the distance between the surface of the earth and groundwater is less than 3 m are not suitable for growing pears. The culture prefers fertile soils with a small admixture of clay, loose, freely passing air and water to its root system. But even on nutrient-rich lands, feeding is mandatory for her. In heavy, dense, waterlogged soil, both ordinary and columnar pears grow poorly. If there are buildings on the site, it is better to place the tree away from their walls. The optimal distance will be 3-3.5 m.

Boarding time

Before planting a pear, it is important to decide on the timing of the procedure. It is carried out in the fall or spring. Here you need to focus on the features of the local climate. In the south, autumn planting is more often practiced, after which the young tree does not suffer from the heat and is easier to take root in a new place. In regions with severe winters - in the Urals, in Siberia - it is better not to risk it and carry out the procedure in the spring. Then, by the onset of cold weather, the seedling will have time to take root well and will suffer less from frost.

The weather conditions in the middle lane provide summer residents with a difficult choice. If a tree is placed on the site in the spring, in mid-April, then it will have enough time to get stronger for winter. This reduces the risk of freezing young pears. But the fall planting also has its advantages. The main one is an increase in the winter hardiness of the tree, which can be seen as early as next year. You should not postpone the procedure for a long time, it is better to carry it out in the first half of October. When placed in the ground at a later date, even in favorable conditions for it in the middle lane, Lada simply will not take root.

Advice

It is better to buy seedlings in the fall, when nurseries offer many different varieties and types of pears. At other times, their assortment is poorer. Young trees with a closed root system may not be planted immediately, but if their placement on the site is planned in spring, they will need to be dug in for the winter.

Pit preparation

In such a responsible matter as planting a pear, there are no trifles. In order for a stately beauty - Lada or Chizhovskaya - to grow actively and quickly begin to bear fruit, it is important to correctly perform each stage of the procedure. Pits for planting trees are prepared in advance. In the middle lane, it is better to do this in the fall. Then a natural disinfection of the soil will occur: the insect pests and pathogens in it will not withstand the frost and will die.

A pit for a pear is dug out large so that the roots of a young tree are spacious in it. When landing, they should not bend or break. On average, the depth of the pit is 1 m, and the distance between its walls is 80-90 cm. If the tree has a powerful root system with long lateral processes, it will have to be made more spacious. The bottom of the pit is carefully loosened, and its walls are covered with notches to improve air exchange.

Already at the stage of planting, the pear needs top dressing. Then both Lada and Chizhovskaya will develop faster and bear fruit abundantly. The soil is enriched with organic and mineral compounds. 3-5 buckets of compost or humus are poured into the bottom of the pit.

The excavated soil is mixed with the following components:

• sand (2 buckets);
• superphosphate (1 glass);
• potassium sulfate (4 tbsp. l.);
• dry mineral fertilizer for berry crops (2 tbsp. l.).

The pit is filled with the resulting substrate.Then dolomite flour is added to the soil, after dissolving 3 glasses of the substance in 10 liters of water. Completing the preparation of the pit with abundant watering. At least 1.5 weeks should elapse between these procedures and the planting of the pear. During this time, the soil will settle. If you cannot withstand such a pause, the mineral fertilizers introduced into the soil will not have time to dissolve. Contact with harsh chemicals will burn the roots. As a result, the tree will be sore all year round and may even die. The day before planting a pear, the pit is watered with a solution of a drug that stimulates root growth.

Planting material processing

The seedling is prepared for placement in the ground. It is carefully examined, removing non-viable branches - dry, damaged, sick. If the seedlings of the Lada variety were purchased with a closed root system, they should not be cleaned of soil. They are placed in a pit along with an earthen lump. In this case, the tree should be bare: if a pear is planted in the middle lane in the spring, the buds are still sleeping on it, and if in the fall, the leaves have already flown.

If its roots are open, they are placed in a mixture of soil and ash, taken in equal amounts and diluted with water until a thick creamy state. This substance should cover all underground shoots tightly. It will help the roots to reliably adhere to the soil. Young trees, which are already 2 years old, take root well in a new place. But if the pear is columnar, it is worth choosing seedlings no older than 1 year. They will tolerate changes in growing conditions less painfully.

Experienced summer residents advise planting 2-3 different varieties of culture on the site at once. This approach improves their pollination, so the nearby Lada and Chizhovskaya will bear fruit more abundantly. Tall trees require a lot of space. A distance of at least 5-6 m is left between them. The columnar pear is more compact, and it is better to place it in rows. So that the planting does not suffer from a lack of light and air, and their feeding and pruning are easier, adhere to the following scheme. The distance between dwarf trees is made equal to 0.5 m, and between rows - 1-1.5 m.

Landing rules

At the bottom of the prepared pit, a fertile substrate is poured with a slide. From the advice of professionals on how to plant a pear correctly, it follows that both Lada and Chizhovskaya need support in the first year of life in a new place. Without it, the tree trunk begins to deform. Therefore, it is better to immediately install a wooden stake in the center of the pit. The distance between the surface of the soil and its top should be 0.5 m.

Advice

It is better to drive in a stake from the south side, then in the hot summer, which is typical for the middle lane, the tree will not overheat, and in early spring its leaves will not suffer from sunburn.

Having lowered the seedling on a mound, gently spread its roots, laying them in a fan. Then the pit is covered with soil. It is recommended to do this gradually, periodically shaking the pear lightly, holding it by the trunk. So it will be possible not to be afraid that voids will remain between the roots of the tree. You need to plant it without deepening the root collar. It should rise above the ground. The correct distance between it and the soil is 5-7 cm.

The earth near the trunk is compacted, then the seedling is watered abundantly and tied to a support. The fixation should be reliable, but here it is important not to overdo it and not to overtighten the tree. Lada, Chizhovskaya or columnar - whichever variety is chosen, the pear planting is completed by mulching the soil. Dry leaves, small straw, sawdust, humus or peat are suitable for it.

Pear Care Basics

Growing pears is quite troublesome. The correct fit is only the first step. You will have to take care of the tree constantly, then with the arrival of heat, Chizhovskaya will not only dissolve the leaves, but also bear fruit. To do this, she needs:

• watering;
• top dressing;
• loosening the soil;
• weeding;
• crown formation.

Waterlogging of the soil for a pear is just as harmful as drying it out. In the regions of the middle zone, summer is often dry, in such weather it is watered regularly, but not too abundantly. The appearance of the tree will tell about the lack of moisture: its growth begins to slow down, and the leaves turn yellow. It is especially harmful in spring, when ovaries are formed in pears. The tree can throw them off. If the buds on the seedling bloom slowly or show no signs of life at all, it should be protected from the scorching rays of the sun, and the young leaves should be sprayed with water several times a day until the tree looks healthier.

The soil under the pear is periodically loosened. It is recommended to do this after each hydration. Loosening improves air exchange, contributing to the intensive development of the roots of the tree, and stops the growth of weeds. They should not be near the plantings, otherwise the leaves on the pear may suffer from an aphid invasion.

Pest control

There is no need to be afraid of insect pests and diseases if preventive spraying of trees is carried out in April. The first insecticide treatment is done at the beginning of the month. Determining the right time for her is not difficult: if the buds on the pear began to bloom, it has come. The second spraying is carried out already at the budding stage.

During the growing season, the trees are carefully examined. If the leaves on them curl, become covered with cobwebs, turn black, these are signs of damage by pests: a leaf roll, a pear pipe-runner, a pear leaf gall midge. They fight them with the help of special drugs. The affected leaves are removed and burned.

A very dangerous pear disease is a bacterial burn. In just 3 months, it can destroy a tree that took 3 years to grow. On the territory of the middle zone and Siberia, it appeared not so long ago, but it spreads quickly. It is easy to recognize the disease: the leaves on the pear turn completely black and curl, but remain on the branches. Bark necrosis occurs, shoots die off. The flowers turn brown and wither. If the tree was infected at the beginning of the growing season, it will not bear fruit: the infection will quickly attack the ovaries. Some varieties of crops are resistant to this disease, such as Lada.

Fertilizing and pruning

If the pear was planted taking into account all the recommendations, additional tree feeding will not be required in the first year. The culture reacts sharply to the lack of nutrients. In a pear, resistance to diseases and frost is rapidly decreasing, its growth slows down, it weakens and bears poor fruit. Therefore, further feeding is carried out every year.

Fertilizers are best applied while watering. 2-3 buckets of humus are spent on a young tree, to which mineral compounds containing potassium, phosphorus, iron, and nitrogen are added. Top dressing of an adult pear will require more fertilizer - 4-5 buckets. Trees respond well to the introduction of urea, saltpeter, copper sulfate.

In the spring-summer period, plantings are fed three times:

1. at the stage of bud appearance;
2. during flowering;
3. while the ovaries are being formed.

The last feeding is carried out towards the end of the year - in November. Compost mixed with superphosphate, wood ash, dolomite flour, rock salt and potassium sulfate is poured into the trunk circle. They will help the plantings to survive the winter painlessly. It is especially important to provide trees with a supply of nutrients before the onset of cold weather in Siberia.

When growing a pear, the formation of its crown is mandatory. Regular pruning is also needed for the Chizhovskaya variety, so that the tree is healthy, looks attractive, and its fruits do not shrink. It is carried out in spring, removing old, dry, frost-damaged, broken off and growing shoots inside the crown and giving the pear a symmetrical shape.

Pruning begins after planting. If a 2-year-old tree was chosen for it, 4 skeletal shoots are left on it.The distance from one to the other should be the same, and the angle between them and the trunk should be 45 °. The remaining branches are shortened by ¼ of the length. If the tree is annual, then after placing it in the ground, pruning is carried out so that its height is 0.5 m.

A slender pear, planting and caring for which will require certain knowledge, will become the real queen of the suburban area of ​​the middle lane. Its fruits are a storehouse of vitamins and a godsend for allergy sufferers. They can be eaten fresh, as well as dried, dried, pickled, cooked from them compotes, jams, jam, cooked puree for babies or candied fruit, closed for the winter in their own juice.

But it will be possible to enjoy the juicy fruits removed from its branches only if the rules for its cultivation are strictly observed. Pear is a capricious culture. It is worth allowing the slightest violation of agricultural technology, and the tree will punish the careless owner with a meager harvest, or even its complete absence.

Agricultural technology of the Ural pear

The pear grows rapidly in the first years, but once it starts bearing fruit, it slows down its growth. As a result, a large long-lived tree grows. Immediately after planting a pear seedling in the garden, formative pruning is carried out. To stimulate branching, one-year-olds are shortened by 1/3. V two-year-olds, the shoot competing for the leader is shortened by 2/3, the other branches are cut by 1/3: the lower ones are smaller, the upper ones are larger. In the future, only sanitary pruning is done, removing dried and broken branches, as well as those that grow inside the crown. The pear loves good hydration, it should not be watered often, but abundantly. There is no need to occupy the land according to the projection of the crown. It is better to keep it under the mulch made of rotted manure, peat, or under a black film so as not to weed.

The peculiarity of the pear is its low winter hardiness at a young age, therefore, for protection in the early years, it is useful to bury the tree in a snowy hill. With the onset of fruiting, winter hardiness increases sharply. As soon as the length of the annual growth of a pear becomes shorter than 35 cm, it is time to feed it. This is usually observed in the 5-7th year and is associated with the onset of fruiting. Fertilization rates are the same as for apple trees.

Pear is a fruitful crop. Usually 2-3 times more fruits are removed from one tree than from an apple tree. It often happens that under the weight of the harvest, skeletal branches break off, therefore, with the beginning of fruiting, props must be placed under them. You can install a long pole with a ring at the top and tie skeletal branches to it with a wire, placing a tire made of wood or rubber under them. Such a device prevents branches from breaking off for many years.

See also: About pear cultivation and tree care ...

How to plant a pear in the Urals

A seedling is, in fact, a baby that will live and grow on your site, and it depends on you whether it realizes its enormous potential. And the first and most important step on the road to success is landing.

Pear planting pit it is advisable to dig it in advance so that its shape is fixed, the edges do not crumble and the planted tree is calmer. Pit dimensions: diameter 0.8-1 m and depth 0.5-0.6 m. A wooden stake is driven into the base. On heavy clayey and waterlogged soils, the filling of the pit should be preceded by drainage, on top of which nutritious soil is applied, and on light soils, immediately pour fertile soil into the pit - a mixture of soil enriched with organic matter (humus or compost) with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Add a couple of glasses of ash to this mixture - a valuable complex mineral fertilizer and soil deoxidizer, at the same time disinfect injured roots when planting.

Stir the nutrient soil to avoid chemical burns of the roots from contact with salt concentrates.

At first, fill the hole only by a third and give the soil the shape of a cone. Place a seedling on this cone and use a horizontal reference point (a board or a stick laid on the ground over the hole) to determine the location of its root collar, i.e. the level where the shoot and the root join.For any planted fruit tree, the root collar should be about 3-6 cm above the ground.

Spread out the roots of the seedling. While planting, shake the seedling lightly from time to time so as not to leave air voids around the roots. Tie the seedling to the wooden stake that is driven into the hole. Fasten the fastening loop around the trunk above the fastening loop around the support so that the seedling stands steadily after the inevitable subsidence of the soil, and does not hang on the support.

After filling the landing hole, carefully compact its surface with the sole of the shoe in the direction from the periphery to the center. Along the edges of the pit, do not be too lazy to make an earthen side in the shape of a circle.

After that, water the seedling abundantly, ensuring tight contact of the roots with the soil. Mulch the surface of the earth with peat or compost, and sprinkle the clay soil with sand.

On wet soils with a high groundwater table or in low-lying areas, you do not need planting holes at all. Make a drainage outflow of water and plant a tree on a mound - an artificially constructed cone-shaped elevation from fertile land, observing the same rules.

New plants require pre-winter protection from sunburn, frost and rodents. Do not rush to whitewash the trunks - the lime dries up the bark, and the trees are already weakened. To protect sensitive roots, with the arrival of cold weather, spud the under-crown zones with earth or cover them with something dense.

Reference by topic: How to plant a pear correctly

Pear varieties for the Urals - photo and description

For many years, the famous breeder E.A. Falkenberg. In the laboratory of selection of fruit crops, a number of unique varieties of pears have been created, combining the high yield and winter hardiness of the Ussuri pear with the excellent quality of the fruits of Western European pears. These are such varieties as Krasulya, Skazochnaya, Dekabrinka, from new products - Rainbow, Favorite, Noticeable.

Many of the varieties created at YUNIISK have summer-autumn ripening periods, so they have a short shelf life. However, as a result of long-term work, Ericht Aleksandrovich identified donors that make it possible to obtain winter ripening varieties in the offspring for regions with risky cultivation conditions. As a result, a number of varieties and elite forms of late ripening pears have now been obtained. These are the zoned varieties Mif, Uralochka, Dekabrinka, Krasnobokaya and new items New Year's, Udachnaya Falkenberg, Ozerskaya, Ovatsiya transferred to the GSE.

In total, 39 pear varieties have been created at YUNIISK, of which 9 varieties are included in the register (Povislaya, Long-awaited, Myth, Uralochka, Dekabrinka, Krasnobokaya, Krasulya, Larinskaya, Skazochnaya), Udachnaya Falkenberg, Ozerskaya, Ovation, Noticeable), and 9 varieties are under study (Ryzhik, Zheltoplodnaya, Ranneletnyaya, Beglyanka Magnitogorskaya, Golden ball, Taezhnaya, Vekovaya, Bolshaya, Chelyabinsk winter).

It's too early to talk about the latter, but I will tell you more about the varieties transferred to the GSE.

Pear variety Rainbow (41-15-9 x Forest Beauty). The variety was bred together with the Sverdlovskaya SSS. Authors E.A. Falkenberg, G.N. Tarasova. A tree of medium height, with a tight, rounded crown, highly winter-resistant, early-growing (4-5 years). Summer ripening variety. Not affected by scab and pear gall mites. Productivity - up to 30 kg per tree. Fruits are short pear-shaped or round, with an average weight of 120 g, with a slight tan on the sunny side, the flesh is white, juicy, sweet (4.5 points). The variety was transferred to GS I in 2007.

medium height, with a tight, rounded crown, highly winter-resistant, early-growing (4-5 years). Summer ripening variety. Not affected by scab and pear gall mites. Productivity - up to 30 kg per tree. Fruits are short pear-shaped or round, with an average weight of 120 g, with a slight tan on the sunny side, the flesh is white, juicy, sweet (4.5 points). The variety was transferred to GS I in 2007.

Pear variety Favorite (Dekabrinka x Forest Beauty). Authors E.A. Falkenberg, F.M. Gasimov. The tree is of medium height, medium spread, medium density. Variety of autumn ripening, highly winter-resistant, not affected by scab, resistant to pear mites and bacterial burns. Differs in an annual high yield (up to 35 kg). Fruits are short pear-shaped, green, with an average weight of 180 g, stored for up to 1 month. The pulp is white, juicy, sweet (4.5 points). Fruits are suitable for fresh consumption, stewed fruit, dried fruit preparation. The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2008.

Pear variety New Year (Dekabrinka x Forest beauty). Author E.A. Falkenberg. The tree is of medium vigor, medium spreading, highly winter-hardy and high-yielding. The variety is not affected by scab, it is resistant to pear mites. Flowering in medium terms. Fruits are pear-shaped, gray-green, covered with a weak raspberry tan during storage, stored for up to 90 days. The pulp is white, juicy, sweet and sour (4.5 points), the taste improves during storage.

Reference by topic: Grapes in the Urals - planting and care

For fresh consumption, compotes, preparation of dried fruits. The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2006.

Pear variety Udachnaya Falkenberg (Dekabrinka x Forest Beauty). Authors E.A. Falkenberg, F.M. Gasimov, N.V. Bespalov. The tree is medium spreading, of medium vigor and medium density. Highly winter-resistant and high-yielding (30-35 kg). The variety is not affected by scab, flowering in medium terms. The fruits are pear-shaped, the main color is green, the integumentary color is raspberry, it takes up most of the fruit, with an average weight of 180 g, a maximum of 254 g, stored for up to 2.5 months. The pulp is white, juicy, sour-sweet with spice, with a weak aroma (4.6 points). The fruits are suitable for fresh consumption, preparation of compotes, dried fruits. The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2009.

Pear variety Ozerskaya (Dekabrinka x Forest Beauty). Authors E.A. Falkenberg, F.M. Gasimov, N.V. Bespalov. The tree is medium spreading, vigorous and of medium density. Highly winter-resistant and high-yielding (30-35 kg). The variety is not affected by scab, flowering in medium terms. The fruits are pear-shaped, the main color is green, the integumentary color is raspberry, it takes up a smaller part of the fruit, with an average weight of 140 g, a maximum of 180 g, stored for up to 4 months. The pulp is creamy, juicy, sour-sweet, with a weak aroma. Tasting score 4.5 points. The fruits are suitable for fresh consumption, preparation of compotes, dried fruits. The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2010.

Pear variety Ovation (hybrid family Uralochka from free pollination). Authors E.A. Falkenberg, F.M. Gasimov, N.V. Bespalov. The tree is tall (up to 4 m), medium-sprawling, of medium density, highly winter-resistant and high-yielding (30-40 kg). The variety is not affected by scab, it is resistant to pear mites. Flowering in medium terms. Fruits are round, the main color is green, when ripe yellow with a slight tan on the smaller part of the fruit. The average weight is 120 g. The pulp is creamy, very juicy, sweet without acid (4.7 points). The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2011.

Pear variety Notable (104-15-41 x Forest beauty). Authors E.A. Falkenberg, F.M. Gasimov, N.V. Bespalov. The tree is highly winter-resistant and high-yielding (30-40 kg). The variety is not affected by scab, it is resistant to pear mites. Fruits are short-peeled, yellow-green, with an average weight of 180 g, maximum 220 g. The flesh is white, juicy, slightly sweet without acid, with a weak aroma (4.6 points). The variety was transferred to the GSE in 2011.

Pears in the Urals - a workshop on cultivation, planting and care

FOR US PEARS ARE NOT LESS DESIRABLE, NORTHERN FRUITS OF CHERRY, APRICOT, PLUM OR PEACH. OVER LONG YEARS OF VARIETY TESTING, WE HAVE BEEN MANAGED TO ASSEMBLE A COLLECTION OF MORE THAN THREE TENS OF VARIETIES AND VARIETIES OF PEARS

Of greatest interest are pear varieties with a complex history of origin. Those who came from distant lands or created by the people, or even simply named by the name or surname of the lucky owner of a pear tree with previously unseen fruits - they are equally loved by gardeners.

Notable varieties of pears

Perhaps, in every region there are favorite pears of national selection or foreign women. You can waste a lot of time in search of a newly bred variety, and, having waited for its fruiting, you can be disappointed. Amozh-po choose among the already adapted local varieties the best, time-tested, from which you know what to expect.

The most real find for the Urals was the pear varieties from Samara. Although the climate of the Middle Volga region is considered harsh, it is still not like ours, the Urals. These trees grow here without any freezing, delight the courageous gardeners-experienced with exquisite fruits of dessert taste. Anyone who has tasted Marshal Zhukov pears is unlikely to look for something else like that for fresh consumption in August-September.

Pears also come to gardens from abroad. The Belarusian variety 'Just Maria' of winter consumption period begins to bear fruit in the third year. Oily, sour-sweet fruits with yellow-white flesh and delicate aroma delight the eye with both a beautiful shape and large fruitiness. The variety is winning the hearts of more and more fans of pear novelties.

We are looking forward to the fruiting of the pear that came to our garden called 'Demirchyanovka' with special interest. If you believe the story of how this variety came to the Urals, it turns out that he made a difficult path, crossing the ocean. From the difficult climate of Canada, by the way, similar to the Urals, he got to the prosperous Transcaucasia, and then to our harsh area. They say that it was like this: the Armenian diaspora in Canada, meeting in the distant years the first secretary of the Communist Party of Armenia Karen Demirchyan, presented him with apple and pear seedlings with excellent characteristics of fruits as a sign of deep love for their historical homeland. Arriving in Armenia, the first secretary instructed local breeders to develop something similar, but not worse, but better.

The fulfillment of the instructions of the party leader was reported in due course, and the new pear variety was named in honor of the respected leader of the republic. In December 1988, a terrible earthquake destroyed the Armenian city of Spitak. In those days of mourning, the entire former USSR sent equipment and people there to help.

Among them was an ophthalmologist from Chelyabinsk. As a token of gratitude for the assistance provided to the victims, one of the local residents presented him with a pear sapling of the 'Demirchyanovka' variety. Something in this story may be fictional, but the ophthalmologist who fulfilled his professional duty is now pleased with the gift of the hospitable people. The pear brought from Transcaucasia has been growing in his garden for many years, delighting with delicious fruits. It spread widely across the Urals, and reached us.

The life of the 'Demirchyanovka' pear in our garden began with a failure. The seedling had bare dried roots, it was difficult to take root and began to grow only in the fall, naturally, that the shoot did not have time to ripen and prepare for winter, as a result of which it froze: it was cut off by the level of snow. Our tree was saved by the fact that not very strong skeletal branches were preserved under the snow, which we always leave in case of adverse weather conditions.

Until December, a native of a distant country does not shed foliage, but at the same time freezing of wood is not observed. The seedling was purchased two years old and weakened. The opinion is confirmed that pear trees, in which the taproot was damaged during excavation, later bear fruit. It has been growing with us for seven years. In the previous two years, it began to bloom little by little, and last autumn all the branches were covered with fruits. Let's wait to see how this marathon will end for the descendant-clone of that overseas pear.

Early maturity of pears

Often, gardeners are afraid of the lack of fruiting for a long time. There may be several reasons for this. And above all - natural early maturity. When choosing a variety, among other desirable advantages, one should also pay attention to the period of entry into fruiting.Early-fruiting varieties begin to bear fruit in the 3-5th year, middle-fruited varieties - in the 6th -7th year, late-fruited varieties - frost for 8 years. And if the gardener prefers old, proven varieties, more often folk selection, then you need to be patient, because they are in no hurry to be pleased with the long-awaited fruits.

You can try to speed up the entry into fruiting. The easiest way is to trim and bend the branches to a nearly horizontal position. It is in this case that the growth polarity weakens - the tendency of the shoots to grow vertically upwards. In the branches with a significant angle of discharge, the laying of fruit buds is ensured.

Damage

But it also happens in another way: a sapling of excellent quality is chosen, the variety is early-growing and re-grading is excluded, since it was purchased from a reliable nursery breeder, and there is still no harvest. The reason for this may be damage to the fruit buds.

For example, if the garden plot is located in a frosty place, there is no protection from the scorching northern winds, and the variety is not winter-hardy enough, then you can either not wait for the fruits at all, or be content with single ones. This often happens due to partial freezing or complete freezing of fruit buds. After a harsh winter, you can check their condition. On the cross cut frozen buds are far from green, almost black.

Another reason: fruit buds can be damaged by pests or pecked out by birds. They sang to leave viburnum, rowan or chokeberry berries in the garden, then the birds will spare the buds of fruit and stone fruit crops. And timely processing will eliminate pests. It is good if the selected drug is of natural origin. The timing of the treatment must be chosen wisely.

In autumn, spraying is carried out after harvesting on yellowing foliage on the crown and ground, and in the spring before bud break - along a green cone. For obvious reasons, treatments during flowering are contraindicated. But not only trunks, crowns and near-trunk circles should be sprayed. Particular attention should be paid to the state of the trunk and the fork in the skeletal branches.

Pollination of pears

Also, fruiting may not occur if pollination has occurred. Pear is a fairly common crop in summer cottages, so we usually don't pay much attention to the presence or absence of pollinators in a single garden. In addition, self-fertile varieties require little or no cross-pollination. All this, of course, is true, but it is soaked that in the presence of pollinators, both the yield and the quality of the fruits increase significantly.

If it is not possible to plant a self-fertile variety, which, with other advantages, will reliably provide you with a crop, then grafting into the crown of other varieties will save the situation - creating a multi-varietal or, as gardeners often call it, a family tree. The number of varieties grafted will depend on the needs and tastes of your family members.

With periodicity

Often upsetting gardeners and the frequency of fruiting pear trees. There are modern varieties that are free from such imperfections. And with pears with an obvious frequency of fruiting, you can try to find a "common language". Regular pruning or removal of part of the ovaries helps to normalize the crop. In areas of risky gardening, rationing is partly carried out by the climate, partly by pests and diseases.

Often, relatively well overwintered flower buds do not set fruit. This happens if flowering occurred either on hot weather with endless dry winds, or on a rainy rainy period or return frosts. And in favorable years, with a good phytosanitary condition of the garden plot and plantings, as a natural state of affairs, there are many pears, but not large ones, significantly inferior in size to the fruits, grown by him during the rationing of the crop.At the same time, it is not particularly important who carried out the rationing, the external environment or the gardener himself. After a year with a bountiful harvest, the next season, almost always either there is no harvest, or not very many fruits are tied.

The bark of the trunk of an adult pear tree resembles the earth cracked from drought: deep cracks with an overgrown cork layer of dead bark. In cracks and under a layer of bark, pests and diseases find their refuge.

If you periodically clean off the stratum corneum, use whitewash with the addition of drugs for healing and pest control, then the quality of life and the period of fruiting can significantly increase. The optimal time for whitewashing fruit trees is late autumn, when rains are no longer predicted, and frosty weather has replaced slush.

Expert advice.

In difficult climatic conditions, it is rational to grow trees on a low trunk, practically getting a bush form. When the ground part freezes and the seedling is left without a central conductor, dormant buds wake up on the trunk that hibernated under the snow, which, together with the preserved skeletal branches, practically form a bush.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

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Many of us from childhood are familiar with the riddle: "Hanging pear - you can't eat." But

pears

, which will be discussed in this article, you can and should eat.

Hanging pear - you need to eat

Pears are not only tasty, but also healthy, and they are also hypoallergenic. Even babies can eat them. Juice, compote, jam, dried fruits are made from pears, harvested for the winter. Therefore, for a long time, she took a worthy place in every third personal plot.

Pear fruit

Let's talk in this article about how to plant and grow a pear and how to care for it.

Planting pears

For a pear, it is better to choose a loose soil, it should allow air and moisture to pass through well, but with a small amount of clay to retain moisture at the roots. In the garden, choose a south, southwest, or west side for it. The place should be sunny, but not sultry.

Flowering pear
Due to the peculiarity of the root system, the pear loves moisture, but if the air is constantly saturated with water vapor, the tree begins to wither.

It is better to plant a pear in the fall, but you can also plant it in the spring. For spring planting, planting pits are prepared in the fall.

• The top fertile layer removed from the pit is mixed with organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost or peat) and mineral potash-phosphorus fertilizers, wood ash or lime if you have acidic soil. The soil mixture is poured into the pit to the brim.
• Pour the soil into the bottom of the hole with a mound, drive a peg into the center. Place the tree in the hole, spread the roots over the mound. The root collar should be 3 cm above ground level. Cover with earth and tamp it with your foot or hand.
• After planting, mark the near-trunk circle with a roller made of earth and pour well with two buckets of water. After the water has been absorbed, mulch the soil around the plant. Without overtightening, tie the tree to the stake.

Important! Try not to put fresh manure in the planting hole, as long decomposition can damage the roots.

Pear care

The pear tree should be looked after in the same way as the apple tree.However, the roots of young pear trees in winter suffer more often, you need to insulate them with better quality (sprinkle more with snow), and wrap young boles with foil, straw or paper, you can use sunflower leaves.

Take care not to overgrow weeds in the near-stem circles of young pears. Plant lupine-like siderates in your garden. Then you plow the lupine between the rows, and the soil will be enriched.

Watering

The best irrigation system for pears is sprinkler irrigation, whereby water enters the plants through a rotating or standing sprayer with many small holes, simulating real rain. If this is not possible, make a 15 cm groove around the barrel circle and carefully pour water into it. Watering is carried out several times in spring and the same amount in summer; in case of severe drought, water more.

After watering, the soil must be loosened, this will provide the roots with oxygen. Watering rate is about 3 buckets per 1 sq. m of the area of ​​the trunk circle.

Fertilization

The amount of fertilizer depends on the characteristics of the tree and on its condition. If a young one-year-old pear tree has a growth of 40 cm per year, or a fruiting pear tree has an increase of 20 cm, then it definitely needs fertilization.

If the growth of a fruiting pear tree is 20 cm, it means that it needs fertilization

Fertilizers need to be applied from the second year. They are brought in in the spring and autumn, but during the summer you can also do top dressing.

Organic fertilizers are applied once every three years, and mineral fertilizers - every year. It is best to make a trench around the tree. The length of the trench depends on the amount of fertilizer applied. For 1 sq. m, on average, there should be about 9 kg of humus, 25 g of potassium chloride, 15 g of urea. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are poured into the trench, mixed with the earth, then organic. This method is better than applying for digging, due to the fact that fertilizers do not evaporate so much from the soil surface.

Pruning pear

Choosing the shape of the crown The most common and acceptable forms for brittle pear branches:

1. Sparse tiered - branches are arranged in tiers and are thinned so that there are 2-3 skeletal branches on each tier. The lower tier is laid in the year of planting. In total, an adult tree produces about 6-8 skeletal branches.
2. Free-growing palmette - form a central conductor and single skeletal branches directed in the plane of growth.

Pear tree crown shape.

A novice gardener needs to understand: pruning is not something complicated, but a necessary measure immediately after planting, so that over the years a crown is formed without unnecessary thickening shoots and branches that have no harvest.

Usually, a pear seedling of 2 years of age is chosen for planting. In this case, skeletal branches are immediately formed in him. A 2-year-old seedling already has about 8 lateral branches, of which about 4 skeletal branches are selected, at an equal distance from each other, extending at an angle of 45 ° from the trunk.

For a tree to branch well, you need to shorten its branches by 1/4 at the same height, but the conductor is always left 20-25 cm higher.If there is a competing shoot, it is cut into a ring, below it is shown how to do this (4th year) ... For more information on this method, see the Trimming Subtleties article.

Pear crown formation.

When planting a one-year-old seedling, it must be shortened; after pruning, its height should be about 50 cm.

Pear pruning.

In an adult tree with a well-formed crown, pruning is reduced to removing small twigs (tops) growing inward, thickening the crown, and broken branches.

Pear diseases

At this point I will describe the manifestations of common diseases in order to be able to sound the alarm in time and help my garden:

1. Scab - develops in early spring. A greenish-brown bloom appears on the leaves, after which the leaves fall off.
2. Fruit rot - grayish-brown rot circles appear on the fruits, spores are carried by the air and can infect other trees.
3. Sooty fungus - black bloom forms on fruits and leaves.
4. Rust is a fungal disease; spots appear on the outside of the leaves that look like rust.
5. Powdery mildew - shoots, inflorescences, buds, leaves can be affected by the disease. A powdery, off-white bloom appears on them, then it becomes brown and, as a result, black dots form.

The main "culprits" of diseases are described in article 6 of the main causes of diseases of fruit trees. And how to effectively deal with rust, you will learn from the video:

Pear varieties

At the pear about 60 natural species... As a result of hybridization, many interesting pear varieties have appeared.

The pear has about 60 natural species and many varieties. Today, thanks to the efforts of breeders, a huge number of them have been bred.

Pear ‘Favorite Klapp’

The tree of this species is tall or medium-sized. Large, elongated fruits. The main color is yellow with a carmine red blush. Very juicy white tender pulp with a wonderful sour-sweet taste. Fruiting after planting in the 7th year.

Pear ‘Clapp’s Favorite.

Pear ‘Lada’

Early ripening early summer variety. Brought to the Moscow Agricultural Academy. KA Timiryazeva by crossing the varieties ‘Forest Beauty’ and ‘Olga’.

Pear ‘Lada’.

Pear ‘Nectar’

Ripens in autumn. In mid-September, the fruits are removed from the tree. The color of the fruit when harvested from the tree is greenish-yellow with bright crimson spots. Fruits of sweet and sour taste, very juicy, buttery pulp, white.

Pear variety 'Nectar'

Begins to bear fruit 5 years after planting (annual seedlings). Very winter-hardy, drought-resistant and tasty variety.

In the article Growing fruit trees on trellises, you will find several more varieties of pears that are suitable for wall trellises.

Other interesting publications about pears and the experience of growing them:

• My new pears in the Novgorod region
• For the husband to overeat pears: the experience of growing pears on rootstocks
• I have never seen such pears!
• Nashi's pear propagates by cuttings
• Pear and Juniper Rust