Hydrangea garden planting and outdoor care pruning in spring

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excess direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight.In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Good afternoon friends! Hydrangea - planting and care in the open field. The best varieties of garden hydrangea Hydrangea is one of the most luxurious garden perennial shrubs. Lush, large and vibrant flower inflorescences consist of large sterile flowers with four colored blende petals.

On almost every site in our horticultural partnership, bushes of delicate flowers with huge heads grow, and we change varieties from time to time, since the price on the market is "biting", it is expensive to buy varietal seedlings.

Hydrangea - planting and care in the open field. The best varieties of garden hydrangea

Novice gardeners consider this beauty to be capricious, and do not risk cultivating it in the garden. Although soil and location selection, proper outdoor planting, and proper care will do the trick. And the bushes, hung with white, cream, pink, blue flowers, will delight you with a long and beautiful flowering.

Over the centuries, since the name of the flower in honor of Princess Hortense, more than 600 varieties have been bred, differing in shape, color of inflorescences and color of leaves.

A very interesting feature of this plant is the ability to change the shade of the inflorescences depending on the acidity of the soil. In this regard, an amusing incident comes to mind. The husband, having arrived after a long business trip, drove past the garden, because he did not recognize him, because the hedge had turned from a white bush into a pink one.

• Types and best varieties of garden hydrangea
• Outdoor cultivation and care:
• When is it better to plant hydrangea: spring or autumn?
• Top dressing - when, what and how much to fertilize the shrub
• Winter preparation, pruning and shelter
• Reproduction of a perennial flower by green cuttings
• Why doesn't hydrangia bloom in the garden and the leaves turn yellow?
• Plant pests and control

Types and best varieties of garden hydrangea

According to the latest information, 52 types of shrubs are known, of which flower growers of the Moscow region and the Urals distinguish the most common:

• large-leaved
• tree-like
• paniculate
• petiolate
• oak-leaved

Large-leaved hydrangea - a shrub that grows up to 4 meters, inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter.In Russia it grows in open ground only in the south, but recently, with the development of agricultural technology, it began to be cultivated in the middle lane, only with the introduction of plants for the winter indoors or with a good hiding place.

It grows well in light partial shade conditions. If there is not enough light, it will bloom, it will begin with a delay and with fewer inflorescences. It blooms in pink, red, white or blue from July to September. The leaves are simple, bright green.

Serves as a decor in the design of gardens and parks, is distinguished by abundant and long flowering, by cutting off shoots, you can form any shape of a bush.

The real flowers of this beautiful plant are small and inconspicuous, hidden under bright inflorescences and can only be seen upon close examination.

The best varieties: Decanter Kosel, Schloss Wakebays, Pepermint, Hod Red, Appengluchen, Airlie Blue, Red Baron, Adriapink, Bouquet of Roses, Magic Amethyst.

Hydrangea — shrub 1 to 3 m in height, actively growing in height and width, with spherical inflorescences up to 15 cm in diameter. Often used to create hedges. It is unpretentious to watering, tolerates short-term drought. Loves shading. Blooms from July to October.

Flowers form on new buds. Young growth often does not ripen and freezes out, but after a strong spring pruning, the bush grows back well.In the inflorescences, fertile flowers predominate, and there are few sterile ones.

Simple varieties: Anabel, Sterilis, White House, Peppermint, Endless Summe

Hydrangea paniculata - shrub or tree, up to 10 m high. Inflorescences are pyramidal, with dense hairy panicles. Flowers of honey plants, small with white petals, later turn pink. It blooms from mid-June to October.

The bush is planted in semi-shady places, the flowers lose their decorative effect from direct sunlight.

The best varieties: Grandiflora, Diamant Rouge, Vanilla Freise, Anabel, Phantom, Polar Beer, Pinky Winky, Limelight, Sterilis, White House, Pepermint, Silver Dolar, Little Lime, Magic, Diamantino.

Stalked hydrangea- in fact, it is curly liana, and is fundamentally different from tree and paniculate. This is the only unique species, it grows well and quickly, it can reach a length of up to 25 m, the annual growth is up to 1 m, it needs props.

Paniculate inflorescences are flat, with creamy white small flowers along the edge, pleasing to the eye in June - August.

Blooms from June to August. Flowering is accompanied by a pleasant honey aroma that attracts butterflies and bees to the garden. Leaves are rich green, on long petioles, round, shiny, numerous. Shoots are copper-brown with peeling bark.

Saplings are used for landscaping small gardens, gazebos, walls and fences. The variety is shade-tolerant, frost-resistant. To preserve its decorative appearance and better growth, the bush is pruned annually. The first flowering begins four years after planting. The intensity of the color depends on the type of soil— the brightest flowers appear on plants planted in an acidic substrate.

The best varieties: Miranda, Cordifolia, Petiolaris

Hydrangea oakleaf — decorative flowering shrub. The plant reaches 1.5-2 m in height, and the diameter of its crown is about 2 m.

The shrub has strong and tough shoots covered with multi-lobed leaves. The leaf blades resemble oak leaves in shape and reach a length of 20 cm. The foliage has a dark green tint, by autumn it changes to bright red or purple. This species blooms from mid-June to mid-September.

Small flowers are collected in large paniculate inflorescences, which in some varieties reach a length of 30 cm. Resistant to negative weather conditions.

The best varieties: Snow White Domes, Snow Queen, Harmony, Ruby Slipper, Harmony, Tennessee Clone, Burgundy.

Outdoor cultivation and care:

When is it better to plant hydrangea: spring or autumn?

Gardeners in the middle lane of our country believe that it is possible to plant seedlings in the spring (early May), this will allow the young bush to grow, get stronger and easily endure the coming winter. And in the fall (end of September), so that before the onset of frost, the seedlings have time to take root.

Preparing the soil for planting. At the end of April, we dig up the soil, with the addition of 1 sq. m.— a bucket of peat, coniferous forest litter, humus, river sand, as well as organic fertilizers (1 tbsp. potassium sulfate and superphosphate, "Agricola-7"). We close up all the fertilizers introduced into the soil with a rake and leave it until planting.

Before planting, we make a depression of 40-50 cm and plant young plants. In this case, we leave the root collar at ground level. Seedlings with a closed root system, with a lump of earth take root better. Therefore, try to purchase seedlings in containers or pots.

After planting, water the soil around the bush abundantly and mulch with peat or sawdust, at least 5 cm thick, this will preserve moisture. Hydrangea likes moist, compostable or leafy acidic soil, and it also doesn't like drafts, so choose a location that's sheltered from the winds.

I have one huge bush that grows in the sun, its leaves evaporate water strongly in sunny weather, and when there is a lack of water, they begin to fade. I water 3 buckets (30 liters) of water twice a week. Moreover, the water should all go to the root.It is better to water with settled and heated water during the day.

Correct and timely watering will increase the flowering time.

 During the growing season, garden care for hydrangeas consists of:

• in regular loosening of the soil around the bushes;
• weeding;
• mulching the soil;
• repeated feeding;
• correct watering;
• protection from diseases and pests;
• in preparation for winter, pruning and shelter.

Top dressing - when, what and how much to fertilize the shrub

During the spring-autumn period, we feed the bushes 3-4 times.

Plants are responsive to organic and mineral fertilizers. Contraindicated - chalk, lime, dolomite flour, ash.

First feeding — in spring, for good growth: 1 tbsp. l. urea and potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. This solution is enough for us for 2 bushes.

Foliar dressing - before budding and during the blooming of 1-2 inflorescence flowers, we spray the plant itself with the "Bud" preparation: 10 g per 10 l of water (1 l of solution per 8 sq. M.)

Second feeding - in June, when buds appear: 1 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate and "Agricola for flowering plants" for 10 liters of water.

Third feeding - for long flowering, when up to 5 flowers open on the inflorescence: 1 tbsp. l. organic fertilizer "Flower" and granular fertilizer "Agricola - Rose" for 10 liters of water. We spend it on 2 bushes.

Fourth feeding - at the end of flowering, for the formation of new buds next year: 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate and superphosphate, per 10 liters of water. We spend 7 liters of solution per bush.

It should be remembered that excess fertilizer increases the mass of the leaves and reduces the number of inflorescences.

Winter preparation, pruning and shelter

We prepare different types of shrubs in different ways for wintering.

Treelike and panicle hydrangea, does not require reinforced shelter for the winter. It is enough to mulch them well and preserve the root system. They can easily tolerate low temperatures (down to -30 degrees), but they need protection from cold winds. The peculiarity of these varieties is that they have flower ovaries formed on one-year-old sprouts that appear in spring, so their flowering does not depend on wintering. In the fall, we do a strong pruning of shoots.

Large-leaved hydrangeas do not need pruning in the fall. We cut off only weak shoots and all faded inflorescences. If the shoots freeze in winter, then it will no longer bloom. Therefore, she needs good insulation, the same as for roses. The best time for shelter is the end of October. There are no exact dates, it all depends on the weather, the main thing is to be in time before stable frosts.

At the end of summer, we stop watering the bush, thereby giving the green shoots the opportunity to grow stiff faster.

After trying many hiding places, I stopped there. Quickly, accurately, with a minimum of available material. After harvesting the fallen leaves, we do not bend the branches to the ground, but tie them into a bunch.

To protect the roots of plants from freezing, we spud the soil with peat or sawdust at the base of the bush. We cover the tied bundle with a thick layer of dried plants, spruce branches, straw, or brushwood.

From above we wrap the bush in several layers with a covering material: plastic wrap, burlap, roofing felt, a dense spunbond cover (60 g / sq. M.)

It protects well from frost and rodents. Air permeable, does not damp, dries quickly, does not rot. Prevents waterlogging.

In the spring, in this species, we leave the strongest shoots, and cut them so that 5-7 buds remain.

Reproduction of a perennial flower by green cuttings

The hydrangea variety you like is most often propagated by green cuttings. We harvest them during the flowering period of the plant, cutting off the tops of the shoots of the current year. This is the most efficient and convenient way. It can also be propagated by layering, offspring, dividing the bush and very rarely do it by seeds.

Hydrangea propagation video

Why doesn't hydrangia bloom in the garden and the leaves turn yellow?

Not all gardeners, it turns out, achieve lush flowering.The main reasons why the bush gives leaves, but does not bloom:

• improperly chosen planting site (near large trees; where there is no wind protection);
• insufficient watering;
• incorrect trimming;
• freezing of shoots;
• underdeveloped root system;
• some varieties do not have time to bloom in the short summer season;
• on alkaline soil.

The main reasons why the leaves of a garden hydrangea dry and turn yellow:

• excessive watering;
• lack or excess of lighting;
• lack of fertilizers;
• highly acidic or vice versa alkaline soil pH;
• sudden changes in temperature, drafts;
• various pests and diseases.

At the first signs of a change in the color of the leaves, we urgently take measures to eliminate unfavorable causes.

Plant pests and control

To preserve the beauty of your garden, you need to learn, in a timely manner, to take measures to combat pests and plant diseases.

• Often the hydrangea is damaged by aphids: we dilute 1 tablet of the Iskra preparation per 10 liters of water, the consumption of 1 liter of solution per 10 square meters. m. You can also fight with Fitoverm or Actellik.
• The spider mite infects the leaves from the underside, covering them with violent cobwebs, causing them to turn yellow and marbled, then dry out and fall off. Spraying the leaves with thiophos 6 g per 10 liters of water helps.
• Against powdery mildew we spray with the preparation "Topas" (4 ml) or "Skor", 2 ml per 10 liters of water. We consume 1 liter of solution per 10 sq. m. You can also use a solution of Bordeaux liquid.
• With very alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis (the leaves turn light green, spots appear on them, and they begin to fall off, and the flower ovaries become smaller). The flower should be fed with iron vitriol, iron chelate or iron sulfate.

That's all for now, my dear flower growers. In this article, I tried to give practical tips and tricks, tested on my own experience. Share your wishes in the comments, your opinion is very important!

Hydrangea - planting and care in the open field. The best varieties of garden hydrangea video

Hydrangea - planting and care in the open field. The best varieties of garden hydrangea.

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years.

In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created.

The main task of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

We are waiting for you to shop at the Sady Rossii NPO.

Did you like the article? Share with your friends on social networks:

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to diseases and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant a hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. It is not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consisting of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m.When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to the depth of the roots of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid in late spring, when the ground is already well warmed up but still damp.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken droppings diluted 1:10 with water. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate of a weak pink color. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline earth, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning hydrangea paniculate and tree-like involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations.The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the fall, since sap flow slows down, and a haircut will contribute to lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotense: related photos

Hydrangea is still one of the most popular ornamental shrubs. The love of gardeners is primarily due to the stunningly lush flowering, huge leaves (up to 30 cm in length) and the relative simplicity of care. Most species still prefer a warm climate, which makes it difficult to grow shrubs, for example, in the middle lane or in the Urals. However, the Anabel variety is a rather frost-resistant hydrangea. Growing it doesn't cause a lot of hassle.

Description of the variety

When compared with other varieties and varieties, then Anabel has perhaps the most sprawling spherical bush. A lot of shoots are formed, which gives the impression of splendor. Height varies depending on natural conditions and can reach 1-1.5 m, and up to 3 m in width. Hydrangea flowers are small, only 2 cm in diameter. But the thing is that they are collected in spectacular spherical inflorescences, which can be up to 30 cm in volume. Flowering begins in mid to late June and lasts until September. Anabel is a long-lived hydrangea, and one bush can delight you for more than one decade, which is also an indisputable plus.

This variety is very versatile in terms of landscape design. A place for hydrangeas can be found anywhere. It goes well with conifers, irises, roses. If you wish, you can even make a real living wall out of it, which will be covered with fragrant white flowers from year to year.

There is another variety of this variety - this is the Pink Anabel hydrangea. It differs not only in a pink shade of flowers, but also in stronger and more wind-resistant shoots, increased frost resistance. The care is the same as for the Anabel hydrangea with white flowers.

How to choose a landing site?

To begin with, it is worth noting that planting Anabel hydrangea or any other variety should be carried out in the spring (in May) or in the fall (in September), with the first option being preferable. Buy seedlings in specialized stores, pay attention to the root system. Hydrangea at the time of planting may have buds, but should not bloom. The optimum age for seedlings is 2-3 years.

Choose a place for the bush, sheltered from drafts, in partial shade, where direct sunlight is only a few hours a day. There should not be too large trees nearby, as they will pick up moisture.

Hydrangea tree-like Anabel is not too demanding on soils, but still prefers acidic and with good water permeability, drained.

Preparing the landing site

After the landing site is selected, you need to dig a hole. The size depends on the seedling, approximately 50 x 50 cm and the same depth. The hydrangea has a superficial root system.If you are doing a group planting, then the distance between the seedlings should be about two meters.

It is recommended to pour several buckets of water (4-5) into the prepared hole and leave it overnight to absorb it. Further, a small drainage layer is poured onto the bottom, and then prepared nutrient soil (leaf earth, peat, humus and sand in equal quantities). In no case do not add lime and wood ash, the tree hydrangea Anabel does not like this.

Lower the seedling into a well-moistened soil and sprinkle it so that the root collar is at the level of the soil. The earth must be tamped tightly and watered again. The near-bore soil must be mulched after that. Use peat, sawdust, pine needles or spruce branches, and foliage. If you have a lawn, then you can apply grass that is in sufficient quantity after mowing it. Mulching protects the roots of hydrangea from overheating and limits the growth of weeds, in addition, organic matter rotts and acidifies the soil over time, which is very beneficial for the plant.

Hydrangea Anabel: care

The shrub grows fast enough. Hydrangea care consists in timely watering, loosening and mulching the soil, pruning.

The plant is very moisture-loving, the fact that it does not have enough water will be evidenced by slightly wilted leaves. The best watering option is 1-2 times a week, 3-4 buckets for each bush. It is desirable that it be gradual and slow, for example, a drip irrigation system. Watering frequency can be reduced to one every 10 days if the soil is mulched. It is best to do this in the spring and several times over the summer, while not forgetting to slightly loosen the soil in the near-stem circle.

Anabel is a hydrangea that loves feeding, she needs them for long and abundant flowering. The first time fertilization is applied the next spring after planting. For one square meter, the following nutritional composition is recommended:

• 40 g superphosphate;
• 20 g of urea;
• 30 g of potassium sulfate.

You can use ready-made complex fertilizers, for example, "Kemira-flowers", while strictly following the instructions. At the moment when the hydrangea Anabel is gaining buds, the second feeding is carried out (50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate). In addition, it is recommended to water the shrub 2-3 times over the summer with a weak (light pink) solution of potassium permanganate.

Anabel is a hydrangea that is quite resistant to various kinds of diseases, but sometimes it can be damaged by spider mites, downy mildew, chlorosis of leaves or aphids. All cases require special treatment.

Hydrangea bush formation

Only shrubs older than five years are subject to pruning, until that time they do not need to be touched. The best time is early spring. Adult shoots are cut 10-20 cm, and annuals can be shortened by 1/3 of the length. Broken, old and often growing branches are subject to removal. You should not cut off weak bushes, since spring is a time of active sap flow, and a painful plant may die.

Propagation of hydrangea

Hydrangea Anabel reproduces very successfully in a vegetative way - by cuttings and layering. In the first case, young shoots are used. Cuttings 10-15 cm long should be cut during hydrangea flowering. Then slightly dry the cut, treat it with Kornevin and root it in light fertile soil. For the formation of roots, cuttings need high humidity and a temperature of 20-25 degrees. In the second case, a strong and healthy shoot is buried in the fall. Already next spring, he will give roots and form a separate bush.

When decorating their personal plot, gardeners are trying to acquire charming plants. Especially if this beauty does not create a large number of worries. The impressive popularity of this combination is the variety of hydrangea.It is better to start acquaintance with this wonderful plant with the Anabel tree hydrangea variety. Such a shrub will inspire novice gardeners and delight experienced ones.

Description of hydrangea Anabel

The plant is a dome-shaped deciduous shrub. The height of hydrangea reaches up to 1.2 m. The crown span is on average 1.5 m in diameter, and adult bushes can grow up to 3 meters.

The bush is densely covered with rich green oval leaves, pointed at the end, with uneven edges, up to 20 cm long. The brightness of the greenery remains until the very frost.

Flowering begins by the end of June. It lasts quite a long time, up to September-October. Flowers are collected in large balls with a diameter of 20 cm, and sometimes up to 25 cm. Formation occurs due to the combination of a large number of small inflorescences, the circumference of which is about 2 cm. Each flower contains 4 petals. At the beginning of flowering, the hydrangea has a light green hue. And as it ripens, it acquires a rich white color.

The shrub grows rapidly. During the season, the bush can grow by an average of 20 cm. The age of the Anabel hydrangea is 40-50 years.

Planting hydrangeas

Each gardener determines the planting time independently. The end of spring is ideal. If planting occurs in the fall, then preferably not late. Otherwise, the hydrangea may not have time to take root and adapt before the onset of frost. It is better to give the plant extra time.

In order for the shrub to please with its beautiful view, you need to responsibly approach the choice of a landing site. Hydrangea does not like transplanting, so you need to immediately choose a permanent place of its habitat.

It is better not to use sunny places for shrubs. Heavy shade is also not suitable. Planting anabelle tree hydrangea is best done in light partial shade. Light, non-aggressive rays will have a beneficial effect on abundant flowering.

Basically, plants of this kind are planted away from large plants. This is due to the absence of a struggle for moisture, since hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants.

The main stages of planting hydrangeas:

1. Before planting, it is recommended to soak the root of the seedling in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This procedure will disinfect the bush and provide nourishment.
2. A landing pit 40x40 cm is dug. The depth should be about half a meter.
3. With poor soil, peat, humus and river sand are introduced in equal proportions.
4. Gently spread the roots and sprinkle them with earth. The near-root space needs to be pressed a little. The root collar should be above the soil.
5. Experienced gardeners recommend mulching the soil. This allows you to keep moisture longer. Mulch also protects against weeds and makes it easy to loosen the soil.

After the end of all the actions, the hydrangea is watered abundantly with water.

You also need to know that it is strictly forbidden to introduce ash or lime into the soil. Hydrangea does not tolerate alkaline reactions.

If the Anabel hydrangeas are planted in a row, then you need to leave the necessary spacing between the bushes of about 1.5-2 m. This will provide freedom for the correct formation of the bushes.

Features of hydrangea care

Correct planting of hydrangea Anabel and caring for the shrub is a guarantee of beauty and a beautiful view of the garden area. The ability to create compositions of individual bushes or group them together gives a lot of room for imagination.

The main care is pruning and feeding. Even without these manipulations, an unpretentious shrub will develop and bloom. But the correct formation and nutrition of hydrangeas is also very important.

The peculiarities of the variety include the unusual ability to color the buds in different shades. Gardeners achieve this magic by sprinkling with colored water. Gaining some experience in a similar procedure, you can create several flowers on one bush.It looks very impressive and unusual.

The shrub tolerates winter well and can withstand 40-degree frosts. Young shoots are more vulnerable and can freeze if the temperature drops below 20 degrees.

Watering hydrangeas

Hortense Anabel will patiently survive the drought. But the plant belongs to the moisture-loving species, therefore, in order to avoid wilting of the foliage, it is recommended to moisten the soil artificially, by periodic watering. This is especially true for young bushes. With intensive growth, for proper formation, abundant watering is simply necessary.

The need for feeding

Some gardeners do not feed regularly. And the hydrangea develops well and blooms. But the impressive size of the bushes and flowering caps in this case is not expected.

Top dressing for the season takes place in several stages.

1. In early spring, before mulching the soil at the root, fertilizer is applied for intensive growth. It should be dominated by trace elements such as phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.
2. During the formation of inflorescences, a second feeding is carried out, based on the content of phosphorus and potassium.
3. In the spring, you can spray the plant with a solution of potassium permanganate 2-3 times. This increases the strength of the shoots, which is extremely necessary for the hydrangea. The branches bend towards the ground under the weight of the buds.

Some try to tie the branches to the support. But this action completely changes the whole greatness of the bush.

Correct pruning

The tree-like hydrangea Anabel is beautiful, the care of which means basically correct pruning. This process must be approached responsibly. Improper pruning can completely destroy all the beauty of the plant.

Young bushes should not be pruned until they are 4 years old. From this period, branches should be pruned in early spring. Cuts are made from the ends of the branches, retreating by an average of 15 cm. Young shoots on an adult plant can be cut off by a third. This is necessary for the formation of lush flowers. In the absence of pruning, the buds begin to shrink over time.

Shrub propagation

It is not necessary to buy seedlings. You can take planting material from friends or neighbors. And later, if necessary, multiply.

The breeding process is fairly standard and simple.

There are mainly three methods used:

• growing cuttings;
• reproduction by layering;
• division of the bush.

The latter option is rather risky. If there is no such experience, it is better not to risk it. This is due to the large diameter of the bush. Therefore, dividing the root can damage the main bush. In this case, the damaged plant may start to hurt.

The first two methods are very easy to follow and are ideal for inexperienced gardeners.

The method of grafting consists in cutting off young shoots 10-15 cm long. It is necessary to carry out manipulations in early spring before bud break. It is better to make a cut obliquely. This will create a large area for the root system. After the cuttings are placed for 2 weeks in water or immediately in fertile soil. The temperature for the first time should be above 20 degrees. Cuttings need to get enough moisture on a regular basis. Thus, the cuttings grow for two years, after which they are transplanted into open ground to a permanent place.

The method of propagation by layering is the simplest and most hassle-free. During the period of bud formation, an extreme strong shoot is selected. It needs to be bent to the ground in the middle of the rod and fixed. In the place of the fold, dig it in with earth and regularly water it. The next year, roots will form at the fold. At the base of the mother bush, the layers are carefully cut with a pruner and transplanted to a permanent place.

Diseases and pests

Despite the simple planting and maintenance, the Anabel hydrangea can be subject to several diseases. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out regular maintenance work. For this, a weak solution of potassium permanganate is effectively used.It is poured abundantly at the root.

Major diseases:

• chlorosis;
• powdery mildew.

The first variant of the disease occurs on too alkaline soils. The leaves begin to brighten, the veins remain dark. If you do not take action in time, the bush will begin to die.

At the initial stage of powdery mildew disease, yellow spots appear on the foliage. Over time, a brown tint appears. Leaves wither and fall.

The formation of untimely yellowed foliage and the presence of cobwebs indicate the presence of a pest - a spider mite. If the pest is identified at the initial stage of appearance, then you can get by with a solution of laundry soap. When the state is neglected, one cannot do without chemicals: Fitoverm, Vermitic and others.

Preparing the plant for winter

Hydrangea Anabel is a frost-resistant plant. But it is better to cut young bushes at first.

To prepare the bush for the winter period, you need to remove all the foliage and remove old or damaged branches. The trunk circle is generously insulated with shavings, sawdust or coniferous needles. The bush is pressed against the ground and covered with spruce branches. Some gardeners, out of inexperience, use polyethylene for shelter. This is not worth doing. The plant can "suffocate" and stifle.

Variety reviews

Planting hydrangeas Anabel and leaving in the open field, judging by the reviews, do not present any difficulties. Even novice gardeners are delighted with these flowers. With a rather insignificant care, an extraordinary decorative effect of the site is created.

Having planted Anabel hydrangea on your plot, everyone will be satisfied. The uniqueness of the decor with the romantic notes of the backyard space will be the envy of the neighbors and the admiration of the guests. Hydrangea bushes can be used as hedges. She looks amazing on the lawn. It is harmoniously arranged with irises, phloxes, roses and many other flowers.

Hydrangea Annabelle is the original representative of its species. The main feature of this subspecies is the unique ability to change the color of its inflorescences. Watering the bush with a special composition allows you to change the tone of the flowers to purple, blue or pale pink. Experienced gardeners can achieve multiple color changes in a single season. It is worth noting that the Anabel pink variety, which is popular among gardeners, can be obtained in this way.

Tree hydrangea anabel not famous for its height, the average indicators among adult shrubs rarely go beyond values ​​of more than one and a half meters. But with a relatively small growth, the annabelle can reach a width of more than three meters. In early spring, the shrub begins to grow deciduous and form future buds. Annabelle blooms from mid-summer to early fall. The flowers cannot be called large, but they are arranged quite densely and form hemispheres about thirty centimeters in diameter. With lush flowering, the weight of the inflorescences is able to tilt the branches of the shrub to the very ground.

Anabel is distinguished by its strong tree-like trunks, thanks to which the plant is able to endure negative external factors. The shrub can be considered a long-liver, the anabel hydrangea, which is planted and cared for, taking into account all needs, is able to decorate the garden plot for fifty years. An important condition for the well-being of a plant is a permanent location, annabelle negatively perceives transplants and a sharp change in conditions of detention.

Shrub planting

When choosing a place for planting a plant, it is recommended to give preference areas near tall trees... It is in shaded areas that the hydrangea will be able to reveal its full natural potential and please its owners with more lush flowering.In addition, nearby trees will be able to protect the bushes from sudden gusts of wind and drafts, the latter are an extremely negative factor for hydrangeas.

You should not choose places for planting located in the lowland of the site, large accumulations of water can harm the root system and provoke its decay. If the entire site is in a lowland, then the landing site must be equipped with good drainage. Pebbles, crushed stone, small fragments of bricks or expanded clay can be used as a drainage system. An important condition is the acidity of the soil, acidic soils are the most preferred for planting.

The first half of spring is considered the best time for planting. It is necessary to wait for the period of bud formation on other plants, it is at this time that the earth will be warmed up enough for planting shrubs.

Landing is carried out in several stages:

1. Soaking the seedling in warm water.
2. Preparation of the landing pit 50x50x50 centimeters.
3. Equipment for the drainage layer in the fossa.
4. Filling the landing site with soil. The soil is prepared from peat and humus soil with the addition of mineral fertilizers. The hole is not completely filled, but about one third.
5. Shrub planting. When planting, it is necessary to evenly distribute the root system over the entire volume of the fossa. After that, the roots are covered with soil and slightly tamped.
6. Watering. Use warm, settled water, preferably the temperature is several degrees higher than outside. For watering after planting, 15–20 liters will suffice.

Important! When planting, pay attention to the position of the root collar, it should not be completely covered with soil.

Bush care

Hydrangea anabel is quite unpretentious in care; even novice gardeners can cope with its maintenance.

It is enough to adhere to three basic rules of care:

1. Shrub does not tolerate drought... Regular abundant watering is required. In hot weather, it is recommended to water several times a week. For irrigation, use warm, settled water. Experienced gardeners recommend collecting water in the morning and exposing the buckets to the sun, so the water gets rid of elements harmful to the plant and warms up.
2. The plant needs regular pruning... The best times for pruning are early spring and late fall. The top stems are cut by about ten or fifteen centimeters. When pruning in the spring, it is important to have time to cut the stems before the juice begins to move. If the juice has gone, then it is better to refuse pruning as it can seriously harm the shrub and significantly slow down its development.
3. Mandatory mulching... The procedure allows you to exclude overheating of the plant and protect it from weeds. To maintain the desired acidity, it is recommended to add peat, the layer thickness is at least eight centimeters.

It is widely believed among experienced florists that it is better not to let the shrub bloom in the first two years and cut off the buds that are forming. The fact is that the plant spends a lot of energy on flowering, and if this period is artificially excluded, then the energy will be spent on the formation of the bush itself. Thanks to this, the subsequent flowering will be lush, and the shrub itself will be stronger and healthier.

Fertilizers

An important issue in caring for a shrub is correctly selected fertilizer... Top dressing is applied throughout the entire period of active growing season. Complex preparations for flowering plants are well suited. After the beginning of flowering, fertilizers should be applied with caution; with excessive feeding, the flowers may acquire a greenish tint.

Breeding methods for tree hydrangea

There is nothing difficult in the propagation of a plant, the annabelle hydrangea reproduces well by seeds, cuttings and division of an adult bush.

Propagation by cuttings

It is one of the simplest and most effective ways to propagate tree shrubs. Cuttings are cut from young shoots during flowering, it is better to cut off the side ones. Rooting is carried out in a mixture of equal parts of peat and coarse sand; stimulants can be used to speed up the process of root formation. The cuttings are kept in a dark room, to maintain the necessary humidity, they are covered with a jar or a transparent plastic bag. After rooting, you can transfer the young plant to a bright room.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Division is done at the beginning or end of the season... The shrub is dug up and divided into several separate plants. The division is carried out in such a way that each new bush has several buds and a good root system. The roots must be given special attention, try not to damage the small roots, and treat the cuts with charcoal or cinnamon.

Hydrangea from seed

This method is suitable for breeding work.... Hobbyists try not to grow shrubs from seeds as it is quite difficult and requires certain skills. Seeds are planted in boxes with acidified nutrient substrate. The substrate is prepared from equal parts of peat, leaf and humus soil. To make it friable, you can add coarse river sand. The soil is regularly moistened and complex fertilizing is applied. With proper care, young plants up to 20-25 centimeters in height grow by the end of the season.

Preparing for winter

Treelike shrubs of the annabelle species are distinguished by their frost resistance and even tolerate severe frosts well. They do not require protection or additional shelter, but young plants can still be insulated.

Experienced gardening tips:

• be sure to cut off dead branches and remove the foliage;
• sprinkle the ground around the shrub with sawdust or dried grass;
• press the rest of the plant to the ground and press it with a board;
• cover the plant with a wrap or burlap with the pressed down.

It should be noted that the bending of the plant should be done smoothly, without sudden jolts and excessive efforts.

How to change the color of inflorescences in a hydrangea tree

For similar experiments it is worth choosing an adult shrub... Young plants are not yet sufficiently strong and can react extremely negatively.

To give the flowers a blue tint, it is necessary to increase the acidity of the soil, and periodically add preparations with a high aluminum content. Watering is carried out with acidified water, the recommended acidity values ​​should exceed pH 5.5. It is in an acidic environment that aluminum compounds become soluble and can enter the plant along with nutrients. Phosphorus prevents the dissolution of aluminum compounds, therefore, preparations containing it should be discarded. Do not expect a quick reaction from hydrangea, sometimes it takes a whole season to change color.

For a pink tint, popularly called "pink", it is necessary to lower the acidity of the soil to neutral values. For these purposes, lime or chalk can be added to the water for irrigation. Additionally, top dressing with a high nitrogen content is applied.

It is worth noting that the repainting of inflorescences from pink to blue occurs quite quickly, but the reverse color change can take a lot of time.

With proper maintenance and care, anabel tree hydrangea can become a decoration of any garden. Caring for it is easy and even an inexperienced gardener can grow a beautiful healthy plant. You just need to choose a suitable landing site and follow the simple tips from our article. The annabelle shrubs are beautiful and elegant and are often used to decorate gardens and create hedges.

> Hydrangea tree Annabelle

Hydrangea Annabel is a lush flowering ornamental shrub. Its unpretentiousness is the main advantage over the choice of such plants.In addition, it has a number of additional important characteristics that are not inherent in the rest of the flowering bushes.

What is this plant?

Its appearance is represented by a not tall, but wide shrub with a round spherical shape. On average, the height is usually about a meter, but in diameter it can grow up to three.

Lat. Hydrángea

Branches and stems are thin, they bear few shoots on themselves. Their bark is brown, with a slight grayish tinge. They tend to grow quickly, so the plant needs pruning and bush formation.

The leaves are dark green in color. They are rather large in shape and not much elongated. Their length can reach 20 cm or more. Each leaf has a petiole, which is attached to the branches of the bush. The total number of leaves on the plant is large, which makes it fluffy and rich.

The gorgeous flowering of Anabel, which occurs in early summer and can persist until mid-autumn, adds contrast to the juicy green plant. Individual and single flowers are not large, only about one cm in diameter, sometimes two, but they are tightly collected in spherical inflorescences. The latter, in turn, have significant dimensions, their diameter is about 20-25 cm.

This ornamental shrub blooms in white, but the fact of the possibility of an artificial color of flowers was discovered. This is achieved by watering Anabel with special dyes of the required shades. This is not inherent in all plant species. With a certain division of the root system initially, it is possible to achieve the presence of multi-colored flowers on one bush.

It perfectly tolerates severe winters, withstanding temperatures of 30-35 degrees. At the same time, having planted it once, you provide the site with a flowering bush for almost half a century, since this variety is distinguished by its longevity.

Thus, this plant is actively used to decorate both individual sites and public places. It looks great both separately planted and in certain flower arrangements. It is used in the creation of fences, as living curbs.

Difference from other varieties

There are several dozen different varieties of hydrangea. They differ from each other mainly in certain parameters and characteristics.

Among these are:

• Bush size
• Leaf shape
• Type of inflorescence
• Flowering period
• Color of flowers
• Frost resistance
• Certain favorable conditions for growth

Blossoming hydrangea Anabel

On these points, one can note the main differences between the Anabel hydrangea from other varieties.

Anabel's flowers are always white. The shade can be given to them by an artificial method.

The plant is frost-resistant, and tolerates cold without additional shelter up to -35 degrees.

Prefers partial shade and abundant moisture. He loves light, but does not like the constantly scorching rays of the sun.

Wind and drafts are unfavorable for Anabel.

The inflorescences are medium in size, located on the bush in moderation. Branches and stems are not prone to brittleness.

Anabel hydrangea is chosen mainly for planting in middle and northern latitudes. Given the fact that a large and open space for her (steppes and fields) would not be an ideal place to grow. But a garden plot or a park area are the most suitable options.

Landing in open ground

Before planting a bush in a permanent place of growth, it is necessary to take into account some significant points.

Namely:

• Determine the most favorable place
• Find or create suitable soil
• Know and adhere to the basic rules of the landing procedure

By paying attention to this before planting, you will not have to carry out any additional procedures for your tree in the future. Providing it with favorable conditions at the very beginning, it will delight you all subsequent years with its mighty beauty.

A place

One of the options for choosing a seat

Thus, if you decide to plant this plant, one, or several bushes, first always indicate exactly where it will grow best. At the same time, it also fulfills its main purpose - to be only a decoration, or else a fence or an object for zoning a site, for example.

Most importantly, the place should exclude the presence of constant drafts. Although the plant is thermophilic and lush flowering, Anabel will delight in the presence of natural light, it is strongly recommended to protect it from direct sunlight, especially at noon. Drought and heat will perfectly tolerate only with constant watering.

The soil

In terms of soil composition, the only things to exclude are chalk and lime. Everything else is permissible for her. Ideally, there will be rich black earth soils, with good drainage and the presence of constant moisture, but not swamps and stagnant water. With its lack, the growth of the bush will be very slow, and there may be no lush color at all.

Landing

It is recommended to plant two or sometimes three summer bushes in a permanent place. This is done either in the spring, somewhere in the middle of April, or in the fall in winter, no later than a month before the first frost. In the case of the latter option, insulation of the root zone of the plant is required.

When planting, a square hole of half a meter is dug for each individual bush, the depth should be about the same. At its bottom, a drainage system of stones, crushed stone or gravel must be placed, this layer must be at least five cm.

Flowering during abundant watering

Then the roots of the bush are placed in a hole, while they must be well spread. Then they are covered with soil. If the soil is not rich in black earth, the soil should be prepared by yourself. To do this, add humus to the excavated earth, you can also add a small amount of sand and sawdust. The bush is buried in the ground before the beginning of the root system.

After planting, the plant needs abundant watering. On average, this is about 2 buckets per day per bush. Spring and autumn are the time when there is no heat, therefore these periods are most favorable for young seedlings.

Observing all the above rules, the hydrangea Annabel will quickly take root, will actively grow and will be able to delight you with its abundant color the next year after planting.

Reproduction methods and rules

The main breeding methods include:

• Division of the bush and root system
• Reproduction by layering
• Growing cuttings

When dividing a large bush, there is a risk of root damage, which in turn can lead to plant disease. This method is also often not convenient due to its strong growth, and sometimes it is simply impossible to do it without damaging both the shoots and stems and the roots.

Most often, they use either the method of growing cuttings, or simple layering. In both cases, Anabelle grows well and quickly. Only simple rules should be followed.

Hydrangea Anabel in landscape design

When propagating by layering, the lower, strongest shoots of the bush are buried approximately in the middle to the ground. This is best done during the period of bud formation, until the leaves appear.

Since it is this time that is most suitable for the growth and development of young shoots and the root system. Thus, young layers grow up to a certain age at the same time as the mother bush, feeding on both their own roots and her.

Cuttings are planted and grown to young and full-fledged seedlings-bushes immediately separately. For this, the upper part of the young branches of the bush is cut by about 10-15 cm. This is done in early spring, in the first half of April. Then they are all planted in a large box or pit with pre-prepared fertile soil.

It must necessarily contain:

• Humus
• Sand
• Peat
• Mineral fertilizers

The distance between each handle should be at least 30 cm in each direction. It is imperative to ensure that there is sufficient moisture. In this way, the cuttings grow for about 2 years, after which the young bushes are planted separately in a permanent place.

Which method is most convenient, everyone decides independently. One can only accurately note the fact that with the help of cuttings the largest number of future seedlings is grown at once.

Basic care

Hortense Anabel is distinguished by its unpretentiousness. The presence of moisture is indispensable and necessary for it. If there is no natural precipitation in the required amount, then it is simply necessary to water it at least 1-2 times a month. Loosening of the soil will also be beneficial.

Like any ornamental shrub, Annabelle needs annual pruning. In its absence, it can lose its shape and run wild, bringing small and rare inflorescences. It is carried out every year in early spring, removing old and weak branches, as well as overgrown young shoots.

If you feed the hydrangea with mineral and organic fertilizers, then it will very quickly begin to grow and grow stronger, and the buds will be lush and numerous. Most often, special mixtures of synthetic fertilizers, slurry and manganese solution are used here.

While watching the video, you will learn about planting hydrangeas.

Elementary care rules make the cultivation of hydrangea Anabel available for everyone. It can be grown on its site by both a "newly-made" amateur gardener and experienced professional decorators. It will find its place both on a private plot and in public parks, squares and alleys, everywhere it attracts the same attention.

Hydrangea