Hyacinths planting and care in the open field in the southern urals

Hyacinth (hyacinthus) is a bulbous perennial plant belonging to the Asparagus family. His homeland is Asia. About 30 varieties were previously included in the genus of hyacinths, but after the reorganization of the classifications, only 3 species remained. The plant reaches a height of no more than 30 cm. The peduncle is covered with small flowers, similar in shape to bells. About 30 flowers bloom on one stem, exuding a strong aroma. Hyacinths can be grown at home or in the garden, but they need to be cared for to flourish.

1 Landing in open ground

Hyacinths are grown from seeds or bulbs. The first method is laborious and time consuming. This technique is used mainly by professional breeders engaged in the development of new varieties. It is much easier to grow hyacinths from bulbs. In the Leningrad Region and the Moscow Region, their planting in open ground must be carried out in early or mid-autumn. In the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to plant them in early September. Planting later is undesirable, since the bulbs will not have time to take root before the onset of frost.

It is not recommended to plant flowers in the spring.

Before planting hyacinths in open ground, it is necessary to prepare the soil in the selected area. First you need to dig up the ground and add mineral fertilizer to it at the rate of 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate and 30 g of potassium per 1 sq. m. Rotten humus should also be added to the soil at the rate of 10 kg per 1 square meter. m.

Planting hyacinths

For planting in the country in open ground, it is better to choose medium-sized bulbs. Before planting, it is recommended to hold them for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution. The distance between them should be at least 15 cm, and between the rows - about 20 cm. Small bulbs can be planted at a closer distance. Dry soil should be moistened.

Liatris: care and planting in open ground

2 Caring for flowers

These ornamental plants require moderate watering in dry weather. Waterlogging of the soil leads to rotting of the plant and its death.

Remove weeds and loosen the soil from time to time as needed.

Timely fertilization is equally important. You need to feed the flowers at least three times. Before doing this, it is recommended to moisten the ground. Nutrients are added according to the following scheme:

1. 1. The first feeding is carried out at the beginning of hyacinth growth.It is recommended to use a mixture containing superphosphate and nitrate as a fertilizer.
2. 2. The second is carried out during the budding period. In this case, a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate is used.
3. 3. The third is carried out after the end of flowering. In this case, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is suitable.

After flowering, the hyacinth begins a dormant period that lasts about 2 to 3 months. At this time, it is advisable to feed the flower once every 3 weeks. As soon as the dormant period comes to an end, the yellowed shoots should be cut off, and the bulbs should be pulled out of the ground, dried and set aside until autumn.

Often, hyacinth develops bacterial rot. The characteristic signs of the disease are spots on the peduncle and foliage, as well as significant growth retardation. Injured plants must be dug up and burned, and the planting hole must be treated with bleach.

Sometimes hyacinth also has fungal diseases. Their development is signaled by a plaque covering the leaves and peduncles of the plant. You can get rid of the disease by spraying with a product containing copper.

The hyacinths are attacked by flower flies, whose larvae eat the bottoms of the bulbs. The drug "Tabazol" will help to destroy parasites.

3 The process of forcing at home

Distillation refers to a technology that accelerates plant growth. Since the flowering period of hyacinths is quite short, it is advisable to resort to this technique at home. In order to get flowers in March, you need to dig up the bulbs in the summer. Then they need to be stored for 2 months in a dry place at a temperature not lower than +25 degrees. At the beginning of autumn, it is recommended to transfer the bulbs to the refrigerator by packing them in a cloth bag.

Many growers practice growing hyacinths by March 8th. To do this, they need to be planted at the end of autumn. Plant the bulbs correctly in non-acidic and nutritious soil, a low capacity will do. The soil mixture should consist of leafy earth and river sand. Several bulbs can be planted in one container at once, but they should not touch each other. The soil must be slightly moistened and the bulbs must be sprinkled on top with a small amount of loose earth. At the same time, the crown of the head must remain open. Then, for a couple of months of planting, you need to remove it in a dark place where the temperature will be within + 4 ... + 6 degrees, for example, a refrigerator. Shelter is not required.

The first leaves will appear in about 10 weeks. As soon as they reach at least 4 cm in length, the containers with the bulbs must be rearranged to a cool place and protected from direct sunlight, covered with a paper cap. The optimal temperature regime during this period is +13 degrees. It is necessary to regularly moisten the soil.

Distillation

As soon as the leaves open and the peduncle appears, the container will need to be rearranged in a well-lit place. If you wish, you can transplant the bulbs into larger pots.

For long-term flowering, it is necessary to protect hyacinths from drafts and exposure to direct sunlight. The pots should be removed away from various heaters and the room temperature should be kept at least +20 degrees.

Hyacinths, which are planned to be planted and nurtured in the open field, can become the most spectacular decoration of the garden. A variety of bright colors of inflorescences allows you to create picturesque compositions. Hyacinths appear immediately after winter. On average, they begin to bloom at the end of April. Depending on the region, the dates may be earlier or later. First, green leaves appear, and then inflorescences of 20-30 buds rise from the middle. They can be regular or terry, and exude a rich aroma.

How to choose a landing site

Outdoor hyacinths require special conditions for planting. These are bulbous plants that are demanding on the warmth and richness of the soil. You need to carefully choose the place.Sunny and open areas that are well protected from possible winds are best suited. To bloom longer, you should choose a place in a small partial shade.

It is worth noting that such flowers do not like when tall trees and shrubs are located nearby. They can take a lot of moisture and nutrients from the soil. Despite the love of water, hyacinths are not suitable for places with high groundwater levels. Stagnation and dampness can damage the bulbs and lead to disease. The soil should be loose and slightly alkaline.

The choice of bulbs for planting hyacinths in the ground

Suitable bulbs are selected for planting hyacinths in the ground. Depending on the variety, they can be of different sizes. It is necessary to examine them well:

1. The bulbs should be firm at the time of planting. A suitable diameter is at least 4 cm. On top there should be scales, which indicate a fully formed kidney.
2. The top of the bulb should be free of mold and diaper rash.
3. It is worth paying attention to the quality of the bulbs and the absence of mechanical damage.
4. Bulbs with small root buds at the bottom are considered good.

If the bulbs meet all these requirements, they will make good planting material and take root successfully. Although it is preferable to plant this flower in the fall, sometimes hyacinth is planted in open ground in the spring.

It is better to treat the selected specimens with foundation or leave for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate. This will prevent disease from occurring.

Planting hyacinths in open ground

It will be competent and expedient to plant hyacinths in open ground in the fall. In this case, the flowers will get stronger during the autumn and winter periods and will delight with their flowering in the spring. Prepare the soil before planting your bulbs. It is dug up a month before planting so that the earth is loose and at the same time settled and compacted. Fertilizers are applied to the soil in the form of humus or compost. Superphosphate and potassium salt can be added. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the nutritional value of the soil.

Hyacinths, planting and maintenance in the open field of which are planned to be done, must be located at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Their roots collect moisture precisely in such a radius and should not interfere with each other. The bulbs should be buried 15 cm so that they do not freeze in winter. When planted in high beds, hyacinths will bloom faster, because they are better warmed up by the sun.

Particular attention should be paid to the timing of planting. Planting and caring for hyacinth in the open field in the Urals or in the middle lane is carried out in September. In the south, this can be done only in October, when the air temperature becomes 6-10 degrees. If you do not adhere to deadlines and plant the bulbs earlier, they will have time to germinate before the onset of frost and freeze in winter. It is also not worth planting later, otherwise they will not take root until winter. It is better to shelter the landing sites from frost. For this, mulch from peat, leaves or sawdust is used. In early spring, the shelter must be removed.

Hyacinth care

Caring for hyacinth in the open field is reduced primarily to watering, timely fertilizing and loosening the soil:

1. After the first shoots appear, the first feeding is required. To do this, you need to add 30 grams of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m.
2. The second time fertilization can be applied during the period when the hyacinths begin to bloom. Potassium chloride and superphosphate are suitable for this.
3. After the completion of flowering, flower beds with hyacinths, it is advisable to fertilize superphosphates at the rate of 40 grams per sq. m.

Any of the dressings must be applied between the plants, after which the fertilizer must be covered by 10 cm. The plantation is watered from above. It is not necessary to water the flowers during flowering. They have enough water from the soil. However, after the end of flowering and drying of the peduncles, you need to water them. Planting and caring for hyacinths in the open field is not difficult to carry out if you do everything on time.

Cleaning and storage of hyacinth bulbs

The hyacinth bulbs must be dug up after flowering. It is necessary to mark their locations in advance in order to find when the leaves droop. If the bulbs are not dug out for the summer, then the flowering in the next season will be less. However, in the southern regions, such as the Kuban, the North Caucasus and the south of the Black Sea, you can leave them in the ground.

The best time to harvest the bulbs is late June or early July.

Harvesting the bulbs makes it possible to inspect them and separate the babies for sending to the nursery. Sick specimens need to be destroyed, and healthy ones should be treated from diseases and pests. Dry the bulbs, peel leaves and roots.

The hyacinth bulbs are dried for 5 - 7 days. Temperature conditions of 20 degrees must be maintained. This is done in a darkened and well-ventilated area. Then put the planting material into storage. This is one of the most crucial moments, because the inflorescence formation process is taking place in the bulbs.

Store hyacinth bulbs in boxes. They are laid out in two layers. If there are few tubers, then you can put them in paper bags with labels in order to understand the varieties in the future.

Often, numerous babies appear on the bulbs during storage. In order not to break them off, you need to be careful when landing.

The planting depth of such bulbs should be halved. Once properly stored, hyacinths can be planted in the fall. In hot areas, this is done in spring.

Autumn planting of hyacinths in open ground - video

 

Hyacinth (Latin Hyacinthus) belongs to the genus of bulbous perennials from the Asparagus family, although earlier it was isolated into a separate family of Hyacinths or included in the Liliaceae family. Hyacinths are one of the earliest spring flowers.

Dense bulbs of hyacinths consist of succulent lower leaves, and the flowering stem (30 cm in height), which is a continuation of the bottom, after flowering dries up along with narrow, upward-pointing leaves sitting with the stem at the very bottom, but in the corner of the upper leaf, on the stem inside bulbs, a bud is formed, gradually turning into a bulb that will bloom next year. In the corners of other leaves, weak bulbs are often formed, the so-called babies, which can be separated and used for vegetative propagation.

Hyacinth flowers are collected in apical carpal inflorescences in the form of a cylinder or cone. The perianth of the flower is a brightly colored bell-shaped funnel with bent lobes. Shades of hyacinth color represent a wide palette: white, red, pink, lilac, blue, pale yellow ... Hyacinths are simple and double in shape of flowers. The fruit of the hyacinth is three-nested, each nest contains two seeds with a delicate peel.

   

Growing hyacinths

 

Hyacinth is a capricious plant, and a florist who decides to decorate his garden with these flowers should know how to properly care for hyacinths. For a lover of hyacinths, you need to know the features of their agricultural technology:

✔ Soil for hyacinths should be neutral and consist of equal parts of leaf and sod soil with the addition of a baking powder. If the soil on the site is acidic, it needs liming, sand will have to be added to the clay soil.

✔ Good drainage is very important, because the hyacinth flower does not tolerate waterlogging.

✔ Lighting should be bright, but hyacinths do not tolerate an excess of direct sunlight.

✔ The site must be protected from strong winds, so many growers prefer to plant hyacinths near shrubs and trees.

✔ Do not use fresh organic matter as fertilizer for hyacinths.

 

 

Hyacinths planting in open ground

 

When to plant hyacinths
Planting hyacinths in the ground is carried out in late September or early October. The hyacinth flower is not planted in the spring! With an earlier planting, hyacinths can quickly move into growth and die during the winter cold, and with a later planting, hyacinths may not have time to take root before frost.

It is necessary to prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance: dig the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, apply mineral fertilizers (approximately 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate, 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m²), three to four-year humus or rotten compost at the rate of 10 -15 kg per 1 m². Add sand or peat if necessary (depending on the composition of the soil). If the soil is sandy, then the amount of magnesium and potash fertilizers should be increased by one and a half times. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers in spring and summer as a top dressing.

Planting hyacinths in autumn It is necessary to plant hyacinths in open ground in September-October. Florists recommend choosing not very large bulbs for planting, but medium ones, the so-called flower beds, which will give flower stalks more resistant to bad weather. The bulbs are sorted out, discarded soft, diseased and damaged. Before planting the bulbs, they are kept in a fungicide solution for half an hour.

The planting depth of hyacinth bulbs from the bottom is 15-18 cm (for bulbs with a diameter of approximately 5 cm), the distance between them is 15 cm, and between the rows - 20 cm. Smaller bulbs and children are planted denser and not so deep. The hyacinth flower grows well in open ground, if you put it in a "sand jacket": a layer of clean river sand 3-5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the hole or furrow, the bulb is slightly pressed into it, covered with sand, and then with soil. This method of planting does not allow water to stagnate in the soil, therefore, the risk of bulb rotting is reduced. After planting the bulbs, if the soil is dry, water the area.

 

 

Hyacinths outdoor care

 

Caring for hyacinths is not difficult, but the requirements for agricultural technology must be met strictly. Firstly, hyacinth is clean, so weed control in the area with hyacinths is a must. In addition, the plant needs constant loosening of the soil. If you want to make your work easier and at the same time protect the soil from drying out, and hyacinth from weeds and diseases, mulch the soil after planting. As for watering, it is necessary in dry season: the earthen lump should be soaked in depth by 15-20 cm.

Feeding hyacinths Feeding hyacinths is carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Fertilizers are applied both in dry form and in the form of solutions, but slightly less fertilizers are placed in the solution than with dry dressing, and the soil is watered before liquid dressing. Dry fertilizers are scattered over the ground and then embedded in the soil with a hoe. The first time fertilizers are applied at the very beginning of growth (15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of nitrate per 1 m²), the second time is fed during the budding period (15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 30-35 g of superphosphate), the third feeding is done, when the flowering of hyacinths is complete (30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate each).

Hyacinth transplant Transplanting hyacinth flowers is simple: in the summer you dig up the hyacinth bulbs after flowering, store them until the fall, and in the fall you transplant them to another place. When to dig up hyacinths? Two months after the end of flowering, when the bulbs will regain strength after this year's growing season.

 

 

Hyacinths reproduction

 

Hyacinths are propagated by baby bulbs and seeds. For those who are engaged in plant breeding, the seed method is more suitable than others: in the fall, at the end of September, seeds are sown in boxes with soil, consisting in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 of sand, leafy earth and humus, and grown for two years in cold greenhouse, but the seedlings almost never repeat the characteristics of the parent plants, so amateur growers prefer the vegetative method of propagation. True, the growth of babies in hyacinth bulbs is slow: every year 1-3 babies grow. If they are easily separated from the mother's bulb, they are planted and grown, and if the babies are not separated, then the mother's bulb is planted with the babies.

In industrial floriculture, artificial methods of reproduction are used, such as cutting and notching the bottom: cuts are made on the bottom with a sharp sterile tool, or it is generally cut out so that, during further storage in a special way, new babies will form the bulbs. Sometimes the result is overwhelming - up to forty children on one bulb.

 

 

Hyacinths post-flowering care

 

Caring for hyacinths after flowering consists of giving their bulbs a chance to regain their strength. To do this, they must remain in the ground for some time. How to care for wilting hyacinths? It is only necessary to gradually reduce watering until it stops completely. In addition, this period accounts for the third fertilization with mineral fertilizers, which will add nutrients to the bulbs for flowering next year. When it's time to dig up the hyacinths after flowering, you will be prompted by their yellowed leaves.

Hyacinth bulbs should be dug up annually, otherwise the flowering may be much poorer next year, in addition, the risk of bulb disease increases. The annual digging also allows you to monitor the condition of the bulbs and the timely separation of children for rearing. Do not wait for the leaves to die off and fall off, as it will be difficult to locate the bulb later. Dig the bulbs with a shovel, since they sit deep in the ground, rinse in running water, pickle them for half an hour in a three to four percent solution of karbofos, or keep them in water heated to 50 ºC for 10 minutes. Then they are ventilated and dried in a dark place at 20 ºC for a week.

 

 

Storing hyacinth bulbs

 

Dried bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of roots and scales, divided into parses and laid out in boxes, preferably in one layer. It is better not to separate the small baby. If there are not very many bulbs, they can be stored in paper bags with signed labels attached to them.

Storage is carried out in two stages: for the first two months, the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25-26 ºC, and the third at 17 ºC with not very low humidity so that the bulbs do not dry out. You can shorten the first stage by a week by creating a temperature of 30 ºC for the first seven days of storage. The room must be well ventilated. And before the autumn planting, it would be nice to keep the bulbs for a week at a temperature close to that in the garden. During storage, the bulbs often develop many small babies, so be very careful when planting them in the ground in the fall.

 

 

Hyacinths diseases and pests

 

Hyacinth flowers do not suffer from excessive soreness, but if there is a problem and they get sick, then here is a list of reasons:

❀ Purchase of already infected planting material.

❀ Too heavy acidic soil.
❀ You have used fresh organic matter as fertilizer.
❀ Unfavorable predecessors.
❀ You looked at a spoiled onion when rejecting.
❀ You have neglected preventive disinfection of the bulbs before planting.
❀ You have planted hyacinths very densely.

Most often, hyacinths are affected by yellow bacterial rot (bacterial disease), which turns the bulbs into foul-smelling mucus. The first symptoms are stunted growth, spots and stripes on the peduncle and leaves. Affected plants should be dug up and burned, and the hole should be etched with bleach. Penicillous rot (fungal disease) is expressed in the fact that all aerial parts are covered with plaque (a product of the sporulation of the fungus) and rot, the flowers dry. They fight the fungus by spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Of the pests, flower flies, whose larvae eat the bottom of the bulb, cause trouble for hyacinths. Destroy them with drugs "Mukhoed", "Aktara", "Tabazol". The bear, feeding on the underground organs of plants, as well as the root onion mite, is also harmful, and the best way to combat them is mulching the soil.

Sometimes this happens with hyacinths: the inflorescence, not having time to appear from the outlet, falls out of it.The reason for this phenomenon is not a disease, but an excess of moisture in the soil, planting too early or storage at too low temperatures.

 

 

Hyacinths species and varieties

 

Hyacinths have been cultivated for about 400 years and until recently it was believed that there are about 30 species and 500 varieties of hyacinths. But after the reorganization of the classifications in botany, most of the species were transferred to another genus of plants. Now only three types of hyacinths are classified: oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), Litvinov's hyacinth (Hyacinthus litwinowii) and Transcaspian hyacinth (Hyacinthus transcaspicus) - these species are the basis for the cultivation of countless varieties and varieties of the plant. Hyacinth varieties are divided according to the flower shape (simple and double), according to the flowering time (early, middle and late) and according to the color of the flowers. In the classification by flower color, hyacinths are divided into six groups:

 

Yellow and orange hyacinths

❀ Yellow hammer - a mid-flowering variety of bright yellow color, fading by the end of flowering, arrow height - 23-25 ​​cm, flowering period 13-15 days.
❀ City of haarlem - late variety, flowers are light yellow, by the end of flowering - light cream. Peduncle - 25-27cm, blooms 15-17 days.
❀ Oranje boven - mid-flowering hyacinth of salmon-apricot color, dark pink at the edges, height - 22-24cm, blooms for two weeks.

 

White hyacinths

❀ Arentine Arendsen - early variety of white, sometimes cream color, flowering period 15-18 days, height - 21-22 cm;
❀ Snow crystal - late hyacinth, white, double flowers, bloom for 13-18 days, stem height - 25-28 cm;
❀ Madame sophie - medium-flowering variety, white, double flowers, stem height 19-23 cm, blooms 13-15 days;

 

Red hyacinths

❀ Hollyhock - late double variety of red-raspberry color. Peduncle height 20-22 cm, blooms 15-18 days.
❀ La Victoire - early variety, shiny red-pink flowers on a stem 20-25 cm high, blooms for 11-12 days.
❀ Tubcrgen's Scarlet - medium-flowering hyacinth of bright red color, double flower stem 20-22 cm high, blooms for a little longer than two weeks.

 

Pink hyacinths

❀ Moreno - early variety, pink-crimson flowers with a dark stripe, peduncle height - 20-23 cm, blooms for 13-18 days.
❀ Anna marie - a mid-flowering hyacinth with an arrow height of 20-25 cm, blooms for 15-17 days with pale pink flowers.
❀ Gertruda - late variety, dark pink flowers on a peduncle, 23-25 ​​cm high, blooms for 13-15 days.

 

Lilac hyacinths

❀ Blue magic - a medium-flowering purple-violet variety, 25 cm high, blooms for 10-12 days.
❀ Indigo king - late variety of black-purple color, shiny flowers, arrow height 15-17 cm, blooms for two weeks.
❀ Bismarck - early variety, pale purple flowers with a brighter longitudinal stripe, height 22-25 cm, blooms for two weeks.

 

Blue hyacinths

❀ Perle brillante - late hyacinth of pale blue color, height - 25 cm, blooms up to three weeks.
❀ Marie - an early variety of dark blue color with a purple longitudinal stripe blooms for 16-18 days.
❀ Queen of the blues - a medium-flowering variety of light blue color with a weak aroma, height - 30 cm, blooms up to two weeks.

As a rule, blue varieties bloom first, then white, pink, red, lilac. Yellow and orange varieties of hyacinths bloom later than others.

 

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs

 

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created. The main tasks of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, onions, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post. We are waiting for you for shopping: NGO "Gardens of Russia"

 

Every gardener who misses his country estates during the winter wants to see the first flowers as early as possible. Especially for such enthusiastic people, hyacinth blooms - a plant of the bulbous genus.

Planting and caring for hyacinths outdoors will require knowledge and skills, but will also generously reward the gardener for following the rules of annual flowering. At home, the flower is grown in pots.

Hyacinth is an early flowering cultivated plant native to the Mediterranean and Southeast Asia. On each peduncle in spring, up to 30 funnel-shaped or tubular buds bloom, collected in inflorescences-brushes of various colors.

Hyacinth cultivation provides for an annual cycle:

• Autumn of the first year - planting;
• Winter is a shelter;
• Spring of the second year - flowering;
• Summer of the second year - digging up tubers and preparing them for planting in the fall.

It is possible not to dig up bulbs in the summer only in the southern regions. Otherwise, bloom will be scarce next spring.

We will tell you how to plant and how to care for a flower in the article.

Preparing for planting hyacinth in open ground

Growing hyacinths requires an accurate sequence of agrotechnical measures. This is the only way to get the result - beautiful early flowers.

Landing dates

An open field herb is planted in spring or autumn.

Planting the bulbs in spring will allow you to see flowering only next year. You can try to keep the planting material for 1 hour in the freezer just before planting. This kind of stratification can destroy the plant, and the likelihood that the flowers in the garden will not bud in the year of planting will still remain.

In which month to plant hyacinth in the spring depends on the climatic zone, but they do this not earlier than the danger of recurrent frosts has passed.

In the southern regions, cultivation begins at the end of April, in the middle lane - in mid-May, in Siberia and the Urals, it is worth waiting for the beginning of summer.

The timing of the autumn planting of hyacinths for most regions of the country is from early September to mid-August. In the northern latitudes, autumn is not expected and bulbs are added in the second half of August.

Choosing a place on the site

Planting and caring for hyacinths outdoors should take into account the flower's preferences. Gardeners choose a well-lit area. A small shade will increase the duration of flowering, but will affect the brightness of the colors and reduce the size of the blossoming buds.

Hyacinth prefers nutritious soil. Large neighboring plants, sucking useful substances from the ground by the roots, will worsen the conditions for feeding the flowers.

Hyacinth is planted in one place for up to 6 years. Remember this when choosing a place on the site.

The trees that have grown during this time can cover the sun's rays with their crowns, immersing the hyacinths in the shade, which will certainly affect the flowers.

Do not plant hyacinth next to plants that require frequent abundant watering. Stagnant water causes rotting of the bulbs and creates conditions for the development of bacterial diseases.

It is better to choose a place on a hill or prepare a flower bed raised above the general ground level, which excludes flooding.

Flowering begins in early spring, when cold winds are still blowing - delicate flower stalks break off with streams of cold wind, flowering will not be lush. Therefore, the flower is planted in places protected from the wind.

Soil preparation

A loose soil that allows air and water to pass through is suitable for growing hyacinth - stagnant water causes rotting of the bulb and roots.

The best soil is forest turf, rotted foliage mixed with sand and peat.

If possible, measure the acidity level, which should not exceed 6.5 units. Acidic soils are deoxidized with fluff lime or dolomite flour.

Chernozem and loam are mixed with peat or coarse river sand. This is done when excavating the soil from the planting hole.

To drain rainwater, make a slope away from the flower bed, or equip drainage from broken bricks, pebbles, large expanded clay. Broken glass or ceramics are not added - they will only damage the growing roots with sharp edges. The soil is dug to a depth of 40 cm with the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers. It will not harm the introduction of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of magnesium sulfate or potassium per 1 m2 of glass.

The work on arranging the flower beds is completed a month before the expected planting date - during this time the earth will settle and be slightly compacted in a natural way.

Selection and preparation of planting material

The survival rate of the plant, its health and the number of buds set depend on the quality of the selected and specially prepared tubers.

Requirements for plantable tubers are listed below.

• Perfect appearance. Damage, dried out areas, mold - a reason to abandon planting in favor of good planting material.
• Diameter not less than 4 cm, mature bud and elastic scales.

Large bulbs should not be used for growing - they often grow into plants that do not give flowers. For planting, use medium-sized bulbs for the purchased variety.

• The presence of root primordia in the lower part (in the area of ​​the bottom), not less than 2 mm in size.
• Elasticity, firmness to the touch, without obvious soft areas.
• The diameter of the bulb is 1.5 times greater than the transverse dimensions of the bottom.

Before planting, the bulbs are kept in a solution of fungicide or potassium permanganate for 25-30 minutes, dried before being embedded in the ground.

Planting methods in open ground

It is not accepted to grow hyacinth with seeds in open ground - the first inflorescences appear only after 4-6 years, and the specific properties of the parent plant are not always reproduced. Therefore, plants are planted only with bulbs.

Landing order.

1. Dig or update pre-prepared holes. The diameter of the seat is 15-20 cm - this is 3-4 times the cross-section of the tuber. The depth of the hole is chosen so that after planting the tuber is buried by 15 cm, no more.
2. The distance between the holes is 10-20 cm, depending on the varietal characteristics; between the rows they are kept 20-25 cm.
3. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the hole with a layer of 5-7 cm.
4. A mound is poured from the prepared earth.
5. Bulbs are lowered into the holes with the bottom down, covered with earth, tamped and watered with a small amount of water.
6. They complete the planting by mulching the soil with peat, sawdust.

Outdoor hyacinth care

Blooming hyacinths is a fleeting process. Only those plants that were properly cared for in the previous year will delight with flowers next year.

Watering rules

In the spring, the soil around the flowers is moistened as needed. There is enough rain to fully meet the needs of a flower that has awakened after winter. The soil is watered within a radius of 20 cm from a flower with a branched root system.

The soil is kept wet until the end of flowering and two weeks after the peduncles have dried. Then watering is stopped to prevent the bulbs from accumulating moisture that causes rotting.

Loosening and mulching

Weeding is a must when caring for hyacinths. It is carried out after each watering. Weeding is combined with loosening and removing weeds. At the same time, wilted inflorescences and leaves are cut off.

Mulching the soil allows you to reduce the number of watering and slow down the emergence of weeds, the proximity of which greatly oppresses the flowers. Sawdust, wood chips, peat, pieces of bark serve as mulch.

Top dressing rules

It is necessary to apply fertilizers so that the flowers have enough strength for abundant flowering during all periods of growth.

Fertilize for the first time in the spring, after the first shoots appear. At this time, 20-30 g / m2 of ammonium nitrate is introduced - it contributes to the rapid growth of the aboveground part. The next time the plant will "require" feeding during the budding period. A complex mineral fertilizer is added to the ground at the rate of 100 g / m2. Or replace it with ammonium nitrate (25 g), potassium chloride (25-30 g) and superphosphate (35-40 g). All fertilizer weights are based on application per square meter.

In all cases, top dressing is scattered between rows and between flowers in a row. This promotes the absorption of minerals by the roots of the plant and protects the bulbs from chemical burns.

To accelerate the dissolution of fertilizers, it is advisable to water the soil.

After flowering, fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus is repeated in the same proportions, and saltpeter is no longer added - the plant needs to prepare for winter, and not spend energy on building up the green mass.

Digging and storing the bulbs

After flowering, the plant enters a dormant stage in summer. At this time, flower stalks fall, leaves dry up, hyacinth loses its decorative properties.

Leaving the bulb in the summer and for the winter in the ground, only gardeners of the southern regions will receive large bright inflorescences next spring. In the summer, they continue to care for faded plants - they are moderately watered and fertilized.

In colder regions, the bulb must be dug out, because the resting stage of the hyacinth takes place in warm (even hot) conditions. At this time, the buds of compensation and the rudiments of the arrows of the future flower are formed.

The best time to dig up is after the leaves and shoots have dried. In most regions of the country, the dormant stage begins in the 20th of June or the first decade of July.

After the leaves have dried:

• the bulbs are dug out of the ground;
• the future planting material is cleaned of adhered earth, the old roots are cut off and the upper scales are removed;
• the grown “kids” are separated from the bulb, leaving the smallest ones;
• the bulbs are sorted by size and dried in the shade at a temperature not lower than 20 ° C.
• storage is carried out in a warm place with an ambient temperature of 25-30 ° C for two months;
• before the autumn planting, the temperature is maintained no higher than 17 ° C.

Pest and disease control

Disease prevention consists in adhering to the rules of planting and care. The right place, moderate watering and storage of the bulbs in suitable conditions is the key to growing healthy, strong flowers.

Watering in excess of the norm causes rotting of the inner part of the bulb, accompanied by a pungent odor. Most often it is yellow bacterial rot.

In addition, hyacinths also affect such rot as: sclerocial, soft, white, gray rot. The fight boils down to digging up and destroying infected plants, disinfecting the soil with slaked lime, and changing areas. Before planting, the bulbs are immersed in a 15% solution of ferrous sulfate for 10 minutes, followed by drying.

Pests dangerous for the flower:

• hyacinth tick;
• onion root mite;
• greenhouse aphid.

The destruction of pests is carried out by spraying with specialized preparations.

Reproduction

Hyacinths in domestic culture reproduce in different ways.

Propagation of bulbs

Hyacinth is propagated by “babies” of bulbs, which can grow up to 4 pieces per season. They are separated from the parent bulb and used as an independent planting material.

For reproduction by scales, large specimens with a diameter of 5-6 cm are selected, cut into 4 parts and separated from the bottom of the scales. Injured areas are treated with fungicides, crushed coal or ash. Broken flakes are placed in a container filled with washed sand and perlite. Prepared dishes are placed in a plastic bag, which is tied to prevent moisture evaporation. The future planting material is kept for two months in a dark room at a temperature of 18-20 ° C and for 2-3 weeks in conditions from 15 to 18 ° C. Further, the formed bulbs are planted in the ground. Reproduction by cutting out the bottom is similar to the previous method. From the dug out onion, cut out the bottom with a packed kidney. Further, the process is similar. Another artificial breeding method is to cut the bottom. Several cuts are made in the lower part of the bulb and placed to grow young bulbs under the same conditions as in the two previous methods. After 2-3 months, the young planting material is separated from the uterine bulb and used for an independent plant.

Seed propagation

The method is rarely used in summer cottages and in private gardens - because the first flowers will have to wait 6-7 years.If a decision is made to grow a flower, then the seeds should be planted in open ground in mid-October and grown in a closed greenhouse for two years, resulting in small onions suitable for transplantation.

The main types and varieties of hyacinths

More than 30 species of hyacinths have been registered and described by botanists. Several of them are used for cultural breeding:

• water;
• Oriental;
• mouse;
• transcaspian;
• hyacinth Litvinov.

Another classification is common among gardeners:

• by flowering time;
• by type of inflorescence (double, simple, multi-flowered);
• by color - used most often.

Inflorescence color	Variety names
Pink	"Fondant"
	"Edison"
	"Pink pearl"
	"Anna marie"
White	"edelweiss"
	Arentin aresensen
	"Snow crystal"
Blue	"Prince arthur"
	"Maria"
Red	Woodstock
	"Yang boss"

As you can see from the article, the rules for growing hyacinth are simple, and if you do not propagate the plant yourself, then, one might say, they are completely simple. The flower will respond to an attentive and sensitive approach with exquisite flowering in early spring.