Dahlias planting and care outdoors in siberia

Guatemala and Mexico are considered to be the homeland of these beautiful flowers. In the Old World, dahlias appeared in the 18th century, where they began to successfully plant and care in the open field. The flowers were immediately given two names - dahlia and dahlia. The first name was given to the plant in honor of the famous botanist from Sweden - A. Dahl, and the second - to the scientist from St. Petersburg - I. G. Georgi.

Flower varieties

Dahlia is a gorgeous flower. In addition to the variety of shapes, it is distinguished by a variety of colors. Today, scientists have about 30 species and about 15,000 varieties of dahlia.

Botanists divide the flower into the following groups:

1. Simple.
2. Anemonic.
3. Collar.
4. Peony.
5. Decorative.
6. Spherical.
7. Pompom.
8. Cactus (needle-like).
9. Semi-cactus.
10. Nymphaean.
11. Mixed - other varieties that are not included in the previous groups.

Colorful, gorgeous dahlias of different colors (white, burgundy, scarlet, pink, cream and many others) are the decoration of our summer gardens.

The dream of breeders is the blue dahlia. However, the efforts of botanists have so far not been crowned with success.

However, these delicate flowers cannot stand the harsh Russian winters, so those who want to enjoy the beauty of their bright buds all summer long should plant the tubers annually. So, in the Moscow region, dahlias can be planted in open ground in mid-May. But in its homeland - in Latin America - this amazingly beautiful flower is a perennial.

Planting dahlias in open ground

The most convenient and effective method of growing dahlias is planting and care in the open field.

Land preparation

The soil for flowers is harvested in advance. Prepare the soil for planting dahlia before the onset of winter frosts. In autumn, the earth is dug up and fertilizer is introduced into it - either compost or humus, which are added to the soil at the rate of 4 kg per 1 m2.

In the spring, the soil is enriched again, with a mixture of compost and ash, which are scattered over the entire area of ​​the flower bed. Then the earth must be loosened with a rake. Fertilizer can also be added to prepared planting holes.

Dahlias are planted in the spring in the soil with a loose structure. Gravel, river sand, crushed coal slag will help to increase its permeability and fertility. This drainage will keep the crop free from excess moisture that can cause harmful mold and rot.

Dahlia quickly deplete the soil, so they should not be planted in one place for two years in a row.

It is desirable that the reaction of the soil is slightly acidic or neutral. Slaked lime is added to the peroxidized soil, and a little peat is added to the alkaline one.

Tuber preparation

Dahlia tubers intended for planting in the open field need special care. With the onset of April - move the root tubers from the cellar to the greenhouse, remove the rotten areas. Put in boxes, cover half with fresh turf soil, peat, sand, sawdust. The root collar is left open. Water the substrate periodically. Eyes will appear in about ten days.Remove root tubers from the ground, shake off, put on a hard surface.

A thin knife blade must be sterilized with a manganese solution or ignited in a fire. Divide the stem into four parts (quarters) with a vertical cut. Each division must have several root tubers and at least one renewal bud, otherwise it will not be able to germinate. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. Keep tubers in the greenhouse until they take root.

Approximately 30 days before disembarkation, the planting material is taken out of storage. The tubers are cleaned of damaged tissue by sprinkling the cut site with activated carbon. You can treat the culture with foundation, or hold it for 17 - 18 minutes in a weak solution of manganese. Next, the processed tubers are placed in low containers with a mixture of earth and river sand.

Initially, the containers are kept in a warm, shaded area with moderate watering. When the sprouts reach a height of more than 2 cm, they are transferred to a lighted place. It is rarely necessary to water the sprouts, it is advisable only to moisten the ground. They are planted in the first decade of May. No need to cover.

When is it better to plant dahlias outdoors in spring? The planting time is related to the climate of the region. For central Russia, this is the third decade of May. For the southern regions - April. For the northern ones, it is the beginning of summer.

Planting dahlias in open ground in Siberia and caring for them should be carried out in the second decade of June.

Site preparation

This culture loves warmth, so it is important to choose the right place. A flower bed should be located in a sunny area that is not blown through by drafts.

Some varieties have a fairly tall stem that breaks off easily from a strong gust of wind. Such varieties need support - stakes made of wood, 1.5–2 meters high. It is advisable to install them in advance.

Ideal location: near the wall, on the south side of the building. It is recommended to plant flowers next to a group of shrubs and trees, in a sufficiently lighted area. However, trees near flowers should not give a thick shade, as dahlias are very fond of light. Closeness and impenetrable thickets are not suitable for these freedom-loving flowers.

First, the site is leveled, after which the holes are prepared. The tubers are planted in open ground, then they are covered with a layer of earth a few centimeters. Provide enough sun and light watering for the tubers.

There is another method of propagation of this culture - cuttings. But this is a very laborious and responsible occupation. And if you are worried about these troubles, then you can grow an annual plant from seeds, these are:

• ColtnessHybrids;
• Redskin;
• Rigoletto;
• Figaro.

Seeds are sown in open ground in mid-May and bloom by mid-August. To get early flowering, the seeds will have to germinate.

Collection and storage of root tubers

Dahlias planted in open ground in the fall also need care. Before frost, the bush should be spud and the leaves on the bottom of the stem should be removed. It is recommended not to rush to dig up the tubers! When the ground part dies, it is cut off, and the tubers are left in the ground. Within two weeks, their rind will harden and starch will form. And only after the first frost (before the onset of large frosts) the root tubers should be dug up and washed. This is done in the morning so that they air dry during the day.

Planting material is stored in a cellar, in a box with a mixture that includes earth, vermiculite, sand, sawdust, peat. The optimum room humidity is 60–70%.

Ventilate the storage periodically.

In January, it is necessary to re-examine the tubers in order to divide large ones. If affected areas are found, it is necessary to remove them, and treat the cut sites with brilliant green solution (you can lubricate with crushed activated carbon).

Dangerous pests

The most important enemies of the plant are:

• aphid;
• slug;
• color beetle;
• Caterpillar;
• earwig;
• etc.

To fight slugs, the earth is sprinkled with metaldehyde. From aphids - the shoots are dipped in a soapy solution or sprayed with a 0.2% chloroethanol solution. Hot weather favors the development of spider mites, which infect the lower part of the leaves. They turn yellow, dry and die. The diseased culture is irrigated with celtan (0.2%). A decoction of celandine and wormwood is also used against pests.

It is recommended to plant marigolds near dahlias - many pests cannot stand their smell.

So, magnificent dahlias are distinguished by a variety of shapes and colors, lush long flowering. If you follow the above recommendations, you can easily grow these gorgeous flowers in your backyard.

All about planting dahlias in open ground - video

All questions related to the cultivation of dahlias today will be answered by Natalia Moskovskikh - from the city of Bratsk, Irkutsk region. Further, the text of the author ...

Since I plant more than 400 bushes on my site, I have gained considerable experience in growing them. Many novice flower growers fear that a close planting will change the color and size of the flower, they ask if it is possible to plant different varieties next to each other, will they be over-pollinated?

Since I do not grow new varieties from seeds, but propagate dahlias by dividing root tubers, in this case, the new plants retain all the characteristics of the variety. And they can degenerate only due to inappropriate growing conditions.

Photo: Lady Darlene dahlia

Planting site, watering, feeding

My dahlias grow in a sunny spot, sheltered from the north wind. When planting, I add Kemira complex fertilizer. Universal ”, but if the plot is sandy, it still needs to be well fertilized, and watered more often. Dahlias are generally water lovers. The lack of watering does not affect flowering too much, but it strongly affects the development of tubers.

Since I plant dahlias in mid-June (the climate of Eastern Siberia does not allow this to be done earlier), I have to pre-grow them to give the plants a good start.

In the photo: dahlias of the Niza Flores variety

Formation

I begin to form tall dahlias at a seedling age. Plants from cuttings always go into one trunk, tuberous - as necessary, but in our conditions I do not leave more than two, since, even limiting the growth of stepchildren and buds, you can not wait for flowers in a three-stemmed specimen.

The third sprout is usually used for the cutting. I pinch the main stem after the third or fifth pair of leaves. Otherwise, all the forces of the plant will be directed towards the formation of the first bud. It will strive to set seeds, the flower will grow huge and gorgeous, but there may not be more of them on this bush.

After the first pinching, all dormant buds in the axils of each pair of leaves will wake up. The stepsons need to be removed, leaving only the top two. Over time, they will turn into powerful trunks, on which stepsons must be plucked.

Forming a dahlia is somewhat similar to pinching tomatoes. You can remove stepchildren before the buds appear. The Y-shaped slingshot trunk must be well tied to the support, since in a strong wind there is a danger of it splitting in two.

In the photo: Hulin's Carnival dahlia

Dahlia feeding

Some varieties fatten too much to the detriment of flowering, this can occur from an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. If the planting pit was well filled with humus, I throw compost into the pit, which is not so rich in nitrogen, and additionally feed it with manure infusion once (1:10).

Or I make herbal tea from wheatgrass, nettle, quinoa, etc. In a two-hundred-liter barrel, I fill the grass with water and add a little cow dung. After five to seven days of fermentation, I add 2 liters of ash and 1 tbsp. double superphosphate. In good weather, this "tea" ripens quickly. I breed it 2:10 and water all the plants. I pour half a bucket under each dahlia bush. Top dressing "works" quickly - the leaves begin to shine with emerald green.

Top dressing rule: nitrogen is needed in the first half of growth before flowering, phosphorus is always needed, and potassium sulfate is needed for flowering and better ripening of tubers. In mid-July and early August, fertilizing with potash fertilizers is necessary (20-30 g / bush).

The plant also loves ash, it can be applied at any time of the season.
Dahlias get sick less and develop better in a new place. If it is often impossible to change it, then at least in the fall, lime the soil or add dolomite flour.

The secret to growing dahlias

In a dahlia, a flower shoot ends in three buds - one in the middle and two at the edges. If I prepare the bush for cutting, I pluck out the side buds in the upper tier of leaves and all the buds in the second tier (whichever is lower). As a result, the flowers will be larger and have long legs. If I want the bushes to decorate the flower garden, I do the opposite - I pluck out the central bud.

At the end of summer, if I see that the dahlia is too "carried away" by the formation of buds to the detriment of flowering, and they do not have time to bloom, I break out some of them. I remove the leaves five to six times over the summer. This is necessary for better ventilation of the bushes, which will prevent the settlement of entire colonies of spider mites in dry summers, and in rainy ones - defeat by gray rot.

In the heat, it is useful to treat the bushes with preparations against pests (aphids, thrips and spider mites), even if they are not visible - they are carriers of viral diseases. Against wireworm, it is effective to plant mustard between dahlias, and marigolds do not like almost all pests.

To prevent fungal diseases, I water it once under the root with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tsp / 1 l of water) or phytosporin.

Dahlias are very sensitive to cold, already at +1 degrees, they freeze, turn black.

Read also

How my mom grows dahlias -

How to keep dahlia tubers intact until spring -

Preparation of tubers for planting and their germination -

Hello dear lovers of dahlias!

I completely agree with you that dahlias are the real decoration of the garden. In order for them to please with their flowering every year, you need to properly care for them throughout the year. Planting dahlias in Siberia has its own characteristics due to climatic conditions and a short summer.

I have been breeding dahlias in Siberia for a long time and have extensive experience in growing them, since these are my favorite flowers. I will tell you in detail what you need to do so that dahlias always grow well and delight you with exuberant flowering.

Digging and storing tubers

I dig root tubers at the junction of September-October, when the outside temperature is above zero. This must be done carefully so as not to damage them. It is best to dig out dahlias in the morning, so that they have time to ventilate and dry well until the evening.

Then I put them in a trellis box and sprinkle them with dry substrate. I store the tubers in the cellar, where the temperature is maintained at about 5-70 heat. A month later, they need to be examined and those that have begun to rot should be removed. After the new year, it would be good to sort out the planting material again: divide the large one, and discard the rotting one.

At the end of March, I take out the remaining root tubers from the cellar, put them in transparent bags and slightly moisten them. I tie it, making holes in the bags so that the plant does not suffocate, and I spread it in a place where there is most of the light. I noticed that this way dahlias germinate more actively and have dense, strong and short sprouts - up to 10 cm.

Planting sprouted dahlias

They can be planted as seedlings or tubers. Depending on this, the material is prepared in different ways. If I plant seedlings, then I put each tuber in a metal jar or a plastic glass, moisten the earth a little and lightly cover the dahlias with it. In this way, germination will be quite intense, the main thing is to provide the tubers with a lot of light and light watering.

It is impossible to overmoisten so that the seedlings do not go to stretch.I plant the sprouted root tubers in open ground in mid-June, these dates are the most acceptable, since it is still quite cool in Siberia until that time.

Before disembarking, from time to time I take dahlias outside to temper them.
I plant them in the holes, watering them well. The bottom two stems should be covered with soil. Sprouted dahlias take root easily.

Planting dahlias from tubers

Growing from tubers is a more efficient and convenient way. I plant them in the first half of May and do not cover them. Before that, I take out tubers separated in winter from the cellar two weeks before planting.

In the same way as in the previous method, I put them in bags, but do not moisten them, if they have not wrinkled, and the sprouts have begun to "hatch". Then they should be left in a place where it is light and warm, and after a week they should be slightly moistened. This helps the roots to wake up more actively. As soon as the shoots appear, the root tubers are ready for planting.

Preparing the soil for dahlias consists in digging it up before planting. Do not be afraid to place dahlia root tubers in the ground in the second half of May. If they are planted correctly, they will not suffer from frost, because the layer of earth is a good protection. And the first stems will not come to the surface so quickly.

The growth process will begin with the arrival of stable heat. Planting this early in the soil helps dahlias to form a strong root system. The development of such bushes will be an order of magnitude better than those that were planted at a later date. Remember, you need to use only those tubers that have sprouted.

• In the ground, I make holes to a depth of about 10 cm.
• If the dahlia variety is tall, the distance between each bush should be at least 80 cm.
• For an average height, 50 cm is enough.

I pour more water into the holes in the dry soil and spread the tubers in a strictly horizontal order to stimulate the growth of a new root system from the shoots.

If the root tubers are buried vertically, this will increase the growth of old tubers. Young roots will turn into tubers. They will not give the buds of renewal and the neck for the new root. They will have to be cut off and thrown away, and dahlias will need to be propagated from old tubers. This will lead to the degeneration of the variety.

I never plant dahlias in shaded areas of the flower garden, in the sun they bloom faster and grow healthier and stronger.

How to care after landing

This process is straightforward. As soon as the dahlias are pierced from the ground, I try to weed them out and huddle them up. So the stems will grow faster, and the tubers will form more actively. As I grow, I huddle them several times, so that they become more stable.

I tie tall dahlias to pegs driven into the ground during planting (there is no risk of damaging the root system). In tall bushes, I pinch the lower side shoots up to 30 cm, while they are still small. This is necessary to accelerate growth and good flowering. If I need to grow large flowers, I cut off more stepchildren.

For undersized varieties, this is not necessary, special care for them is not needed. And one more thing: the first flower should be cut to enhance growth and good flowering of the whole bush.

Marianna Pavley

Dahlias are a luxurious decoration for any flower bed. Bright, large flowers attract a variety of shapes and colors, while planting dahlias and caring for them in the open field is not very difficult.

Bright and elegant dahlias are a wonderful and demanding decoration of the garden.

When choosing a place where dahlias will settle in the future, you need to take into account the purpose of their cultivation - decorative or reproduction for sale. If the plans include the implementation of dahlia tubers, then the planting scheme will differ from that when growing these flowers to decorate the site.

The recommendations below for planting dahlias and caring for them in the open field are relevant for central Russia and the CIS countries (Primorsky, Altai Territories, the southern part of the Khabarovsk Territory and Western Siberia, the South and Middle Urals, the Baltic States, Belarus, the northwestern part of Ukraine) ... When growing in more southerly regions and countries, you will have to make adjustments for the climate features, shifting the timing of planting and harvesting, as well as changing agricultural technology.

When choosing a place to grow dahlias, you need to take into account their features, including:

• high water demand (the higher the air temperature, the more water is needed);
• short growing season;
• the need for support and a garter due to the fragility of the stems.

It is important to create an optimal microclimate that will allow you to get the maximum decorative effect of dahlias in a relatively short period. The landing site should be protected from cold north, north-east and north-west winds and drafts, warm up well. In combination with a low air temperature (from +1 to -4 degrees), strong winds can cause dahlias to freeze, especially if they were recently planted from greenhouses or greenhouses and did not have time to get the necessary hardening.

In the southern regions, the danger is posed by dry winds - northeastern, eastern and southeastern winds carrying heated dry air. They dry out the soil and aboveground parts of the dahlia, causing the young foliage and plant tops to be burned.

To protect the flower beds with dahlias from the winds, the site is planted with trees, ordinary or fruit, using fences or protective strips. Often the site is given a slope - south or south-east for the middle zone and north or north-west for the southern regions.

Important! Lowlands, hollows, valleys should be avoided, where cold air usually accumulates and late spring frosts often occur.

In the shade of trees or fences, dahlias grow beautifully and retain a high decorative effect if the sun illuminates them for at least half a day. At the same time, planting these flowers in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe root system of large tall trees should be avoided, since they will not be able to bloom normally and form viable root tubers.

When choosing a site for planting dahlias, great attention should be paid to the issue of groundwater occurrence. They should not rise above 60-70 cm from the ground surface. If the water rises higher in the area, a flower bed with dahlias should be artificially raised to protect their root system from decay.

In hot southern regions, on the contrary, they often arrange flower beds with dahlias in a depression surrounded by ramparts of earth. At night, this depression is filled with water to ensure sufficient moisture supply to the roots.

Soil preparation

Dahlias prefer moisture-absorbing, structural soil, which at the same time has a high permeability to water. The wrong choice of soil is very often the cause of the death of dahlias. You can improve the structure of the soil with organic additives:

• humus;
• fresh or rotted manure;
• peat;
• straw cutting;
• compost;
• turf and other materials that are readily degradable in the soil.

In heavy, clayey soils, to improve water permeability, add:

• coarse river sand;
• gravel;
• ash (peat or coal);
• peat;
• coal slag (fine, sieved and washed).

If the site is dominated by sandy soil that does not hold water well and is easily eroded, you can add to it:

• vermiculite or perlite;
• peat;
• clay and other materials to help retain moisture.

Advice: it is not required to clear the soil of gravel or small stones; such additives in any type of soil will not interfere with the normal development of dahlias.

Dahlias are not too demanding on the acidity of the soil and can put up with its excess or lack, but they show the best results on slightly acidic or neutral soils.But strongly alkaline soils inhibit their development and growth. Before planting dahlias, you can analyze the acidity in order to then bring it to the desired indicators:

• with a Ph value of 4-5, slaked lime is introduced into the soil (30-100 kg per 100 square meters);
• at Ph 8 and above, the soil is acidified by introducing peat into it.

The place where the dahlias will grow is plowed deeply in the fall - by 30-35 cm. Then, 2-3 weeks before planting the flowers, the soil is dug up or plowed again, paying special attention to harrowing and loosening.

Planting dahlias

Exactly when to plant dahlias outdoors in spring depends primarily on the region. As a rule, in the middle lane this is done after June 1-10, when the last night frosts leave. At this time, already grown tubers are planted. You can plant them earlier - around May 15-20, as soon as the soil warms up enough. Unsprouted tubers are planted, which have pronounced eyes. Shoots appear after 2 weeks. With such a planting, it is necessary to constantly monitor the air temperature and, if there is a threat of frost, cover a flower bed with dahlias.

It is interesting. To obtain even earlier flowering in May, already grown tubers can be planted, but in this case, they will need constant shelter from frost and cold air.

Before planting dahlias, you need to prepare seats for them. Next to the stakes driven into the ground, holes are dug in the soil. The distance between plants should be equal to half the height of an adult plant - approximately 60-100 cm, between rows - at least 1 meter.

It is very important to immediately establish a support for the flower, since if you do this later, there is a very high probability of damage to the root tubers.

Stakes for supporting dahlias must be strong and high - not less than 160-180 cm. It is better to make them from coniferous wood, they will last longer. To increase their service life, they are treated with a 7% solution of ferrous sulfate and painted. Even more durable will be metal stakes - from old pipes or fittings with a diameter of 12-20 mm.

The stakes are driven to a depth of 40 cm, then sprouted tubers are planted in the hole, placing them closer to the support. In this case, the root collar of the tuber should be 4-5 cm below the soil level. If the seedling was obtained from a cuttings or is a hybrid seedling, it is planted deeper, 8-10 cm.

Recommendation: it is better to plant cuttings seedlings two in each hole.

It is better to plant dahlias with tubers in spring in cloudy weather or in the late afternoon, so that the plants do not suffer from the sun and have time to settle in a new place. Seedlings obtained from cuttings or divided tubers are poured abundantly with water before planting, and then placed in a hole, trying not to break the lump and not damage the plant itself. For the convenience of watering, ring-shaped holes are made around the planting pit, or they simply do not completely fill the hole. Over time, it will become equal to the soil level, and furrows are made for irrigation.

Immediately after planting, dahlias are tied to stakes in 2-3 places - depending on the height of the plant. Labels with the name of the variety are attached to the top of the support. The first few weeks after planting, dahlias need regular, abundant watering. The frequency depends on the temperature and humidity of the air - in dry and hot weather, plantings are watered daily.

Dahlia care

Dahlias are quite demanding in terms of planting conditions and further care. To achieve high decorativeness of the flower bed, it will be necessary to provide the plants with the most suitable conditions.

Watering, loosening, mulching the soil

After the seedlings settle in a new place, watering is reduced, but at the same time the soil under the dahlias must constantly remain moist. With a lack of water, the stems quickly become woody, growth slows down and flowering worsens. It is quite difficult to restore the decorativeness of dahlias after this - it returns slowly, after the onset of cool rainy weather.

To provide dahlias with optimal air humidity, moisturizing irrigation is carried out using sprinklers (with small holes). 10-15 minutes of such watering allows you to increase the humidity of the air for a while in hot weather.

It is very important to keep the soil under the dahlias in a loosened state and regularly remove weeds. They loosen it, as a rule, after each watering or fertilization. After buds appear on the dahlias, and the green mass of plants closes, loosening stops, and the soil is mulched with peat or humus. This is done to slow weed growth, prevent soil crusting and reduce the amount of watering, as the mulch keeps the soil moist for longer.

Recommendation: in case of excessive development of the vegetative mass, the lower leaves of the bushes are cut off to a height of 30-40 cm in order to improve air ventilation. This avoids the formation of a thick stem at the root collar, which impairs the safety of the tubers.

After the onset of stable cold weather, dahlias huddle. This will protect the roots from the first frost, while the hilling height should be 15-20 cm. If the plants were planted deeply, then hilling can be omitted.

Top dressing

The need to apply mineral or organic fertilizers for dahlias depends on the type of soil in which they are planted. Fertile soils, which were regularly fertilized with organic matter, humus, need it less. To determine which fertilizers dahlias need on a particular soil, you can hand over samples to the agrolaboratory for chemical analysis. It allows you to plan fertilization for the next 2-3 years.

Fertilization occurs in three ways:

• when plowing the soil before planting;
• when landing in each hole;
• foliar or root dressing.

With the wrong choice of fertilizers, they can be ineffective or even harmful to plants. That is why it is recommended to regularly, once every 2-3 years, carry out a chemical analysis of the soil.

In the fall, for digging, as a rule, organic fertilizing is introduced - manure, composts, especially if they have not had time to decompose enough. In spring, wood ash, superphosphate and aged peat are plowed into the ground.

It is not recommended to introduce readily soluble chemicals into the soil, since they are easily washed out of the soil and are not used by dahlias for their intended purpose. Among such substances:

• ammonium and other nitrate;
• potassium salt;
• urea (synthetic urea);
• potassium chloride.

The latter is advised to be introduced into heavy clay soils. Fertile lands before planting dahlias are not additionally fertilized, but top dressing is applied only to the planting pits. To do this, use humus (leaf or dung) mixed with wood ash or stove soot. 3-4 tablespoons of ash are added to a bucket of compost, a quarter of a bucket of the mixture is added to each hole.

During the period of growth and flowering, dahlias are regularly fed with organo-mineral fertilizers - once every 12-14 days. To do this, use diluted cow manure or chicken manure (for 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure solution or 0.5 liters of chicken manure solution) with the addition of potash (15 g) or ammonium (10 g) nitrate, superphosphate (15-20 g) and potassium sulfate (10-15 g). A bucket of fertilizing mixture (10 L) is divided between 4-5 plants.

Such dressings continue until mid-July, then they are replaced by phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. And after the second half of August, preference is given to phosphorus fertilizing. After each fertilization, the bushes must be watered from a sprinkler.

Important! Lack of water, phosphorus and potassium can slow down the transfer of nutrients from the stem and leaves to the root tubers in autumn.

Preparation for wintering

Dahlias do not hibernate outdoors. In the fall, after the ground part dies off (usually after the first frost), the root tubers are dug up and stored.

It is necessary to dig up the tubers on the first day with a positive air temperature, because with a delay, the buds can wake up and cause the tuber to rot. Before digging, the stems are cut with a garden pruner at a distance of 3-4 cm from the root collar, and then using a pitchfork or a shovel, the nests are removed from the soil. The tubers are laid out in boxes and placed in a cool, damp room for several weeks (+8 degrees with a humidity of 80%).

After 2-3 weeks, the nests are cleaned of small roots and old tubers, the cuts are processed, and stored in boxes. The bottom of the boxes is covered with earth with a layer of 3 cm, then the tubers are laid out and covered with earth. The boxes are stored at a temperature of 1-7 degrees Celsius and high humidity (80-100%).

There are several ways to store tubers in winter. Each gardener chooses the most convenient for himself. The main thing is to ensure the safety of the planting material.

You can also store the tubers by treating them with a clay mash. The peeled root tubers are washed under running water, dried in the sun, dipped in a chatterbox and dried again. The resulting "dragees" are sent for storage until spring.

Bush formation

In the case when the reproduction of dahlias took place in tubers, it is recommended to leave the two strongest shoots for each seedling, removing all the rest as early as possible. Cuttings are grown, as a rule, in one stem, sometimes pinching the top above the third internode to add splendor to the bush.

As a rule, dahlias are grown in 1 or 2, less often 3, stems, so as not to thicken the bush too much

For large-flowered varieties, a mandatory measure is the regular and complete removal of all stepchildren formed on the stem - lateral shoots in the leaf axils. This is done as early as possible and as close to the stem as possible. If the stepchildren are not removed, especially on the lower part of the stem, then the growth of dahlias slows down, the flowering decreases, and the size of the flowers decreases. In addition, stepchildren close to the ground often break off, and fungal infections can easily occur at the site of the break, which will cause the death of the entire plant.

The removal of stepchildren is carried out regularly, from the moment of planting and until the buds are formed. Lateral shoots are removed to the internode preceding the one where the bud was formed.

Important! Dwarf, pompom, collar and small-flowered types of dahlias do not stepchild.

Quite a few species and varieties of dahlias need to be removed not only stepchildren, but also buds. This is especially true for those plants that are grown for further cutting or participation in exhibitions.

As a rule, on the stems of dahlias, buds are formed in groups of three. The middle bud usually develops faster than the others, but at the same time it has a short peduncle, which is not very convenient for cutting. Therefore, the central bud is removed, after which the remaining two develop faster, have a longer peduncle and are distinguished by lush flowering.

During the flowering period, in order to preserve the decorativeness of the plant, faded inflorescences should be removed daily, which spoil the appearance of the bush.

Formation of undersized bushes

Almost all varieties of dahlias are tall - from 160 cm and above. If you need to get a stunted plant, you need to follow the following algorithm:

1. At the end of February, parts of the tubers are planted in nutrient soil and placed in a well-lit place at a temperature not lower than + 15-20 degrees.
2. After the emergence of shoots, 1-2 are left, the most powerful. The rest can be used as cuttings.
3. Above the fourth pair of leaves at the bush, pinch the top.
4. As a result, two stems develop from one, each of which is pinched again after the second pair of leaves.

With such a pinching system, the bush does not grow more than 1 meter in height. The grazing of such dahlias is carried out according to the general scheme.

Reproduction and preparation of tubers for planting

Dahlias are propagated by seeds, cuttings or parts of tubers. Since it is quite simple to grow dahlias from tubers, while getting 3-5 new ones from one tuber, this method is the most common. Root tubers dug up in autumn in early April begin to prepare for planting. To do this, they are kept for 10 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and left in a warm, well-lit room for about a week.

As soon as sprouts 7-9 mm long appear on the tubers, you can start dividing. One medium tuber can usually be divided into 3-5 parts. It is important to ensure that at least 2 kidneys remain on each division. A sharp knife is used for dividing, acting very carefully so as not to damage the root collar.

Recommendation: if dry or rotten parts are found during the division, they are removed, and the cut site is treated with crushed coal or foundation.

Prepared parts of tubers are planted for germination in boxes with a mixture of sawdust, peat, river sand and humus. They sit in these boxes until the onset of stable heat without recurrent frosts, when they are transplanted into open ground.

Propagation by cuttings

It is recommended every two years to replace old tubers with new ones obtained from sprouted cuttings. Cutting dahlias allows you to update the planting material, preserving the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

For renewal, the healthiest and most consistent with the characteristics of the variety, the tuber is selected, planted in the nutrient soil at a third of its height. After a while, sprouts begin to appear. When they reach a height of 2 cm, they are cut off and put to rooting.

After the sprouts appear, watering is reduced, and the temperature is lowered to + 15-17 degrees so that the cuttings do not stretch

You can root cuttings in water or in a substrate. To accelerate root formation, it is recommended to treat them with stimulants. Cover pots or containers with cuttings with plastic wrap and place in a warm, bright place.

Important! The mother tuber will release new shoots after a while. In total, up to 30 cuttings can be removed from it.

Seed propagation

Typically, seed dahlias are grown as an annual crop. They can be planted in seedlings or sown directly into open ground.

To obtain seedlings, seeds are sown in early April in loose soil, the containers are covered with foil or glass. Seedlings appear on the 4th-7th day. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, they are dived into separate pots. In open ground, matured and pre-hardened seedlings are planted after the end of night frosts, observing a distance of 20-25 cm between the plants.

When sowing in the ground, the seedlings will need to be thinned out in order to provide the plants with room for growth. Dahlias are sown in May, after the threat of night frosts has passed. Crops will bloom only towards the end of August.

The brightest representatives of annuals are pompon dahlias, varieties "Gelleri", "Sylvia", "Merry Guys"; they are grown from seeds using the same technology.

Despite the fact that dahlias require quite a lot of attention and participation from the gardener, their bright and lush bloom will adorn any flower bed. With some effort, you can admire the luxurious inflorescences until the first frost.

Moscow, Russia, on the site since 11.01.2017