Dahlias planting and care in the open field in the suburbs

Guatemala and Mexico are considered to be the homeland of these beautiful flowers. Dahlias appeared in the Old World in the 18th century, where they began to successfully plant and care in the open field. The flowers were immediately given two names - dahlia and dahlia. The first name was given to the plant in honor of the famous botanist from Sweden - A. Dahl, and the second - to the scientist from St. Petersburg - I. G. Georgi.

Flower varieties

Dahlia is a gorgeous flower. In addition to the variety of shapes, it is distinguished by a variety of colors. Today, scientists have about 30 species and about 15,000 varieties of dahlia.

Botanists divide the flower into the following groups:

1. Simple.
2. Anemonic.
3. Collar.
4. Peony.
5. Decorative.
6. Spherical.
7. Pompom.
8. Cactus (needle-like).
9. Semi-cactus.
10. Nymphaeic.
11. Mixed - other varieties that are not included in the previous groups.

Colorful, gorgeous dahlias of different colors (white, burgundy, scarlet, pink, cream and many others) are the decoration of our summer gardens.

The dream of breeders is the blue dahlia. However, the efforts of botanists have so far not been crowned with success.

However, these delicate flowers cannot stand the harsh Russian winters, so those who want to enjoy the beauty of their bright buds all summer long should plant the tubers annually. So, in the Moscow region, dahlias can be planted in open ground in mid-May. But in its homeland - in Latin America - this amazingly beautiful flower is a perennial.

Planting dahlias in open ground

The most convenient and effective method of growing dahlias is planting and care in the open field.

Land preparation

The soil for flowers is harvested in advance. Prepare the soil for planting dahlia before the onset of winter frosts. In the fall, the earth is dug up and fertilizer is introduced into it - either compost or humus, which are added to the soil at the rate of 4 kg per 1 m2.

In the spring, the soil is again enriched with a mixture of compost and ash, which are scattered over the entire area of ​​the flower bed. Then the earth must be loosened with a rake. Fertilizer can also be added to prepared planting holes.

Dahlias are planted in the spring in the soil with a loose structure. Gravel, river sand, crushed coal slag will help to increase its permeability and fertility. This drainage will keep the crop free from excess moisture that can cause harmful mold and rot.

Dahlia quickly deplete the soil, so they should not be planted in one place for two years in a row.

It is desirable that the reaction of the soil is slightly acidic or neutral.Slaked lime is added to the peroxidized soil, and a little peat is added to the alkaline one.

Tuber preparation

Dahlia tubers intended for planting in the open field need special care. With the onset of April - move the root tubers from the cellar to the greenhouse, remove the rotten areas. Put in boxes, cover half with fresh turf soil, peat, sand, sawdust. The root collar is left open. Water the substrate periodically. Eyes will appear in about ten days. Remove root tubers from the soil, shake off, put on a hard surface.

A thin knife blade must be sterilized with a manganese solution or ignited in a fire. Divide the stem into four parts (quarters) with a vertical cut. Each division must have several root tubers and at least one regeneration bud, otherwise it will not be able to germinate. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. Keep tubers in the greenhouse until they take root.

Approximately 30 days before disembarkation, the planting material is taken out of storage. The tubers are cleaned of damaged tissue by sprinkling the cut site with activated carbon. You can treat the culture with foundation, or hold it for 17 - 18 minutes in a weak solution of manganese. Next, the processed tubers are placed in low containers with a mixture of earth and river sand.

Initially, the containers are kept in a warm, shaded area with moderate watering. When the sprouts reach a height of more than 2 cm, they are transferred to a lighted place. It is rarely necessary to water the sprouts, it is advisable only to moisten the ground. They are planted in the first decade of May. No need to cover.

When is it better to plant dahlias outdoors in spring? The planting time is related to the climate of the region. For central Russia, this is the third decade of May. For the southern regions - April. For the northern ones, it is the beginning of summer.

Planting dahlias in open ground in Siberia and caring for them should be carried out in the second decade of June.

Site preparation

This culture loves warmth, so it is important to choose the right place. A flower bed should be located in a sunny area that is not blown through by drafts.

Some varieties have a fairly tall stem that breaks off easily from a strong gust of wind. Such varieties need support - stakes made of wood, 1.5–2 meters high. It is advisable to install them in advance.

Ideal location: near the wall, on the south side of the building. It is recommended to plant flowers next to a group of shrubs and trees, in a sufficiently lighted area. However, trees near flowers should not give a thick shade, as dahlias are very fond of light. Closeness and impassable thickets are not suitable for these freedom-loving flowers.

First, the site is leveled, after which the holes are prepared. The tubers are planted in open ground, then they are covered with a layer of earth a few centimeters. Provide enough sun and light watering for the tubers.

There is another method of propagation of this culture - cuttings. But this is a very laborious and responsible occupation. And if you are worried about these troubles, then you can grow an annual plant from seeds, these are:

• ColtnessHybrids;
• Redskin;
• Rigoletto;
• Figaro.

Seeds are sown in open ground in mid-May and bloom by mid-August. To get early flowering, the seeds will have to germinate.

Collection and storage of root tubers

Dahlias planted in open ground in the fall also need care. Before frost, the bush should be spud and the leaves on the bottom of the stem should be removed. It is recommended not to rush to dig up the tubers! When the ground part dies, it is cut off, and the tubers are left in the ground. Within two weeks, their rind will harden and starch will form. And only after the first frost (before the onset of large frosts) the root tubers should be dug up and washed. This is done in the morning so that they air dry during the day.

Planting material is stored in a cellar, in a box with a mixture that includes earth, vermiculite, sand, sawdust, peat. The optimum room humidity is 60–70%.

Ventilate the storage periodically.

In January, it is necessary to re-examine the tubers in order to divide large ones. If affected areas are found, it is necessary to remove them, and treat the cut sites with brilliant green solution (you can lubricate with crushed activated carbon).

Dangerous pests

The most important enemies of the plant are:

• aphid;
• slug;
• color beetle;
• Caterpillar;
• earwig;
• etc.

To fight slugs, the earth is sprinkled with metaldehyde. From aphids - the shoots are dipped in a soapy solution or sprayed with a 0.2% chloroethanol solution. Hot weather favors the development of spider mites, which infect the lower part of the leaves. They turn yellow, dry and die. The diseased culture is irrigated with celtan (0.2%). A decoction of celandine and wormwood is also used against pests.

It is recommended to plant marigolds near dahlias - many pests cannot stand their smell.

So, magnificent dahlias are distinguished by a variety of shapes and colors, lush long flowering. If you follow the above recommendations, you can easily grow these gorgeous flowers in your backyard.

All about planting dahlias in open ground - video

Dahlias are perennial flowering plants of the Astrov family. Large flower heads amaze with the variety of their colors. There are spherical, double and variegated forms.

They are sometimes grown as annuals. In this case, the tubers are not dug up and stored for the winter.

When decorating a flower garden, it is very important to choose the right satellites for these plants with similar requirements for lighting and soil composition. Best of all, bright yellow and orange dahlias will be combined with delicate lilac verbena and purple delphinium.

I don’t plant more than 2-3 varieties of different shapes and colors in one flowerbed. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to oversaturation of the composition and make it tasteless. You can dilute the flower garden with ornamental herbs and cereals.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, dahlias bloom from the end of June until the first frost.

The choice of planting material

Dahlias can be grown from seeds or by planting tubers. Seed propagation is only used to plant these flowers as annuals. If the plant is planned to be grown for several seasons, dahlia corms are purchased.

Before buying, you should carefully study the contents of the transparent package. The size of the tuber depends on the variety and age. The main thing is that it is not shriveled and dried out. A good cut has a small piece of the former stem, a root collar with slightly outlined buds, and at least one nodule.

Old tubers are large in size and have a wide root collar, as a rule, they have a dark and wrinkled appearance. They are planted only for one season, since they do not give young offspring.

Do not purchase root tub nests. Such plants will give many shoots, but they will bloom poorly. Over time, they begin to get sick, and die by 4 years.

If planting material is purchased immediately before planting dahlias in the ground, it is better to choose partially sprouted specimens. The buds should be clearly visible on the root collar of such plants. In the case when it is still far from the moment of planting, the purchased tubers are wrapped in thick paper and stored in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment.

Types and varieties

Depending on the shape and structure of the flower, dahlias are divided into several groups.

The most popular are simple single-row dahlias with a flower diameter of about 10 cm.Giving preference to this type, you should pay attention to the variety Cheerful guys with a variety of colors and a bush height from 30 to 60 cm.It is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and increased resistance to drought.Due to the fact that this variety reaches its maximum decorative effect in the first year after planting, it is often grown from seed as an annual.

Anemoid dahlias are distinguished by petals shortened closer to the core, which are often lighter or darker in color. A prominent representative of this species is the Boogie-Woogie dahlia. The deep pink outer petals of this cultivar border the bright yellow dense center of the flower.

Cactus dahlias look unusual. Their distinctive feature is needle-like petals, pointed, rolled into narrow elongated tubes. The advantage of cactus dahlias is that rainwater does not accumulate on their petals, and the inflorescences do not become heavier. The Stars Lady variety amazes with its white-pink fluffy buds that bloom from mid-summer to mid-autumn.

Globular dahlias are often grown as annuals. Their dense inflorescence reaches 15 cm in diameter. The Fanny Face variety will delight you with bright yellow flowers speckled with red splashes, which, when cut, will stand for at least a week.

Among the terry decorative dahlias, the most popular variety is Meloni Dixie. Its compact bushes do not exceed 60 cm, and the petals, beige at the base, acquire a rich pink hue to the edge. This variety has the longest flowering from early summer to late autumn.

Growing from seeds

Sowing dahlia seeds for seedlings begins at the end of March. For this, the seedling boxes are filled with nutrient soil, composed of 1 part of turf, 1 part of humus, 1 part of coarse sand. Then the soil is moistened abundantly and grooves are formed with a depth of 1-2 cm at a distance of 5 cm from each other. Seeds are laid out in the grooves, observing an interval of 3 cm, after which they are carefully sprinkled with earth. The boxes are covered with foil and kept in a well-lit room with an air temperature of 22-25 ° C.

Seedlings appear in 7-10 days. At this time, the film is removed, since the newly appeared seedlings need regular ventilation. You need to moisten the seedlings daily, preferably with a spray bottle.

A pick into individual peat cups is carried out when each plant has at least 3-4 true leaves. When transplanting, each sprout is buried to the cotyledons.

Dahlias are planted in open ground in the second half of May, when the threat of night frosts has finally passed. In order for the seedlings to successfully take root in a permanent place, 2 weeks before the expected date of planting, the seedlings begin to harden, gradually accustoming it to the coolness of the street.

Growing tubers

Before planting dahlias, they are pre-germinated with tubers. To do this, a 20x40 cm trench is dug in a specially designated area. The tubers are carefully laid in it, and then covered with earth. To ensure the greenhouse effect, the trench is covered with polyethylene, which is attached to the surface of the earth with stones or other available material. It is not necessary to additionally moisten the soil during the germination period.

In about 2-3 weeks, green shoots will appear on the surface of the earth. The film is removed, and young plants are dug up, divided and planted.

To properly divide the tubers, they are washed under running water and cut with a knife so that at least one sprout remains on each bulb. At the end, the corms are disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The division rejuvenates the plant and prevents it from sprouting too many. The buds on such a specimen will be larger and brighter. It is also the best breeding method for varietal dahlias.

Landing

The area where dahlias are supposed to be grown should be well lit or in partial shade. The main thing is that it is protected from cold winds. For this purpose, dahlias are often planted next to annual sunflowers, which, with their powerful foliage, protect their delicate buds from drafts.

The land for planting flowers is prepared in the fall. The soil is dug up and fertilized with compost at the rate of 3 kg per 1 sq. M. In the spring, the soil is again enriched by scattering a mixture of humus and ash over the surface. If the soil is acidic, it is limed, as dahlias prefer neutral soils.

For planting plants, holes are dug with a depth of 10 cm, which are previously well spilled with warm water. Depending on the variety, the planting pattern can be 30x30, 50x50 or 80x80. 2 copies are planted in each hole, this will allow for maximum splendor of the bushes. In order for the plants to develop correctly, it is necessary to arrange the tubers strictly horizontally.

Agrotechnical requirements

Additionally, young dahlias should be watered only in dry weather, for this they use warm settled water, since low temperatures will negatively affect the root system of plants. During the flowering period, the bushes require almost daily irrigation, and on hot days the soil is mulched with peat or straw. In between waterings, the soil is loosened and weeded.

As the bush grows, excess shoots are removed from it, leaving only a few of the strongest branches. If you correctly pinch the plant throughout the entire growth period, you can get large and bright buds. The exception is dwarf species.

Top dressing begins to be applied only after the beginning of flowering, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. A weak infusion of mullein prepared on the basis of water in a ratio of 1x10 is well suited for these purposes. Lack of nitrogen is eliminated by adding ammonium nitrate to the soil at the rate of 2 tbsp. l. for 1 sq.m.

Tall varieties must be tied up in time so that the fragile stems of the dahlia do not break under the weight of the blossoming buds and do not lose their decorative effect.

In October, perennial corms are dug up and stored. To do this, the entire ground part of the plants is removed, and the tubers are freed from excess land and treated with potassium permanganate. For the first month, the bulbs are stored in a well-ventilated area with high humidity at 90% and a temperature of 8-10 ° C. Then the tubers are moved to a dark place with a temperature of 3-5 ° C and a humidity of 50-60%.

To avoid decay, dahlias should not be stored in closed plastic bags. In addition, the future planting material must be regularly sorted out at least 1 time per month.

Diseases and pests

Violation of the conditions for planting and growing dahlias can lead to a number of fungal diseases. The most common are gray rot and leaf spot. In this case, the leaves of plants are deformed and dry out, the peduncles die off without opening.

To combat such ailments, powerful fungicides such as Fundazol or Topsin are used. Severely damaged specimens are removed and burned.

Dahlias are often attacked by whitefly caterpillars, moths and other pests. They bite into foliage and stems, weakening plants, and can lead to their complete death. To destroy parasites, systemic insecticides are used, which kill not only caterpillars, but also the butterflies themselves with their egg-laying.

Strawberry and chrysanthemum nematodes damage the entire ground part of dahlias. It is almost impossible to fight it, so the affected plants are dug up with a large clod of earth and destroyed.

Growing dahlias in the suburbs

Dahlia - the queen of the autumn garden, a plant of the Compositae family, root-tuberous. In the conditions of the Moscow region, an annual excavation of dahlia tubers, as well as begonias tubers, is required.

The gardens of our grandmothers could not be imagined without dahlias, as well as without golden balls. For some time, these flowers for the soul disappeared from the front gardens. But fashion is known to be making a comeback. Thanks to the work of breeders, dahlias began to come slowly.

The homeland of dahlia is Guatemala and Mexico. There are still wild species growing there that require a short day and cool nights.In Russia, dahlias began to appear at the beginning of the last century, and they got their name in honor of the geographer, botanist, ethnographer, academician of the Petersburg Botanical Garden Johann Gottlieb Georgi.

Depending on the size of the bush, the shape and color of the inflorescences, dahlias are divided into groups. Here are some common ones:

Non-double - small inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter, bush height up to 60 cm.

Pompom - spherical inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter, bush height up to 1 m.

Cactus (needle-like) - large double inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, bush height up to 120 cm.

Decorative - large inflorescences with bending ligate flowers up to 20 cm in diameter.

Location, soil

The landing site for dahlias should be open sunny, illuminated for at least 6 hours a day. Cultivars with pink and red flowers will retain their color longer if they are protected from the midday sun. Dahlias have fragile stems, so their planting site should be protected from the wind by trees, shrubs or buildings. However, it is not recommended to plant in lowlands, as cold air accumulates there and there are early frosts.

The soil for planting dahlias should be structural, permeable with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. From experience I can say that dahlias grow on any soil. However, if you want to achieve a lush and long flowering, then it is recommended to improve the soil by applying organic fertilizers (compost, rotted manure). If the soil is clay, then sand, peat and dolomite flour should be added to it, and if the soil is sandy, which does not retain moisture well, then it must be diluted with peat and clay.

Landing

In the Moscow region, for earlier flowering, dahlias are planted in open ground grown up when the threat of return frosts has passed (as a rule, on June 6-10). If dahlias are planted earlier, then temporary shelter is required (with half a plastic bottle, for example).

Dahlia grows in a container

It is recommended to dig a pit for planting dahlias in advance. A shovel of humus (compost), 30 g of complete mineral fertilizer and a tablespoon of lime are added under one bush. All this is mixed well with garden soil to a depth of about 30-40 cm. Dahlias are planted in cloudy weather or in the evening at a distance of 60 cm from each other. In the prepared soil, they dig a hole a little larger than the pot in which the plants grew, and carefully, trying not to destroy the earthen lump, dahlias are planted. Dahlias are placed in the planting hole a little deeper than they grew in a pot. The necks of the tubers should be covered with earth by 3-4 cm. Immediately you should drive in a stake with a height of 150-180 cm for tall varieties, to which the stems are subsequently tied. The planted plants are watered abundantly. I recommend spilling each bush with Epin's solution (5 drops per bucket of water). The soil around the stems must be mulched to retain moisture and reduce weeds. It is recommended to use rotted manure, compost or peat as mulch.

Top dressing, care

Dahlias respond well to feeding with weed infusion or mullein solution (1 liter per 10 liters of water). Such dressings are carried out before flowering every 2 weeks. When the dahlias begin to bloom, scatter superphosphate (2 tablespoons under the bush), embedding it in the soil. From mid-August, nitrogen fertilization is stopped altogether, and the

Experienced gardeners recommend sprinkling dahlias with 0.05% boric acid solution or 0.03% potassium permanganate solution 2-3 times per season for abundant flowering.

Caring for dahlias consists in timely watering and pruning wilted inflorescences. When dahlias begin to bloom, they are watered only in abnormal heat, otherwise the growth of leaves will overtake the growth of flowers. I do not recommend peoning (who does not know what it is, look in the dictionary) or pinching the side shoots, as the specialized literature advises, as otherwise it turns out to be a rather bald bush with leaves and flowers only on the top of the head. In addition, many varieties are now sold that form a large number of buds - flowers. If the variety is very tall, then above the third (second) pair of leaves, it is better to cut the top off so that the flowers are not somewhere in the clouds. It is recommended to remove the lower one or two pairs of leaves from the bush.This will provide better air, heat and light access to the roots, thanks to which the tubers will ripen better. In the fall, dahlias are huddled to protect them from the cold and prolong flowering.

Dahlias grown from seeds and small-flowered varieties must be pruned, stimulating the growth of new inflorescences.

Cleaning and storage of tubers

The dahlia root tubers are harvested when the first frosts beat the stems and leaves, but there is still no big frost. I recommend not to rush into the digging too much. When the ground part dies, it is cut off, and the tubers are spud (you can simply pour a bucket of new earth on top of the bush). For about 2 weeks, the tubers are not touched, during this time their peel thickens and starch forms. Then they are dug up (you cannot pull the stem!), For this, around the bush, 20 cm from the stem, gently dig a circle with a shovel and pry the tuber. It should be remembered that dahlia tubers are very fragile and weakly adhere to the root collar, so they can break off. If some tuber breaks off, do not throw it away, rarely, but buds can wake up on it in the spring. The tubers are washed from the ground (well dipped in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 10-15 minutes), allowed to dry, small roots are cut off. All cuts must be treated with crushed coal to prevent decay.

dahlia needle

I recommend dividing the tubers in the spring, since they are better stored, and in March-April you can already see where the buds woke up. To dry, the tubers are brought into a cool room (about + 4-10 degrees) for 15-20 days, covered with a newspaper. Then they are stored until spring in a basement at a temperature of + 3-5 degrees and a humidity of about 60-80%.

Recommend verified by me way to store tubers in the basement... In any box, I line the bottom with wrapping paper, lay out the dried tubers and cover it with ordinary universal purchased soil for plants, with a layer of about 5 cm almost to the root collar. I cover the top of the box with a newspaper (paper), on top of which I lay a film or sealed packages. Once every 2 weeks, you need to open the drawer and check. If rot (mold) appears on the root collar, which is very rare, then I take out the tuber, process it with potassium permanganate, cut off the rotten parts to healthy tissue, sprinkle it with charcoal and dry it for about a day. Then I again put the tuber in a box-box (preferably in a separate one) and cover it with new, drier soil. If the tubers began to wither (dry out), then I spray the ground a little.

Pests and diseases

The most common pest is aphids, which suck out cell sap, which leads to deformation of leaves, flowers and young shoots. For the fight, you can use folk remedies - a solution of tobacco dust.

Spider mites and thrips can cause great harm to plants. Treatment with bio-preparations (Iskra-bio, phytoferm) is recommended.

Application in landscape design

In the garden, dahlias look great in the front garden, along the paths, in the decorative garden. Small varieties can be used in container gardening.

In group plantings, dahlias look great next to aconites, delphiniums, phloxes and other perennials. And such annuals as kosmeya and zinnia will be indispensable companions of dahlias for country-style gardens. If you plant a strip of low bushes of the same color, size and shape, you get a wonderful border. If you plant dahlias on a lonely shrub growing on the lawn or include a flower garden in the composition, then bright colors in late summer and early autumn will delight you for a long time.

Comments (1)

Dahlias are popular garden plants that can decorate any flower garden.

Planting and caring for dahlias in the open field does not require much effort and special skills, but there are still nuances in agricultural technology.

Next, we will talk about how and when planting, fertilizing, pruning, digging and storing tubers takes place, as well as methods for breeding dahlias and the most popular varieties.

Growing dahlias from seeds

Dahlias are not propagated by seeds as often as by tubers. This method is mainly suitable for annual varieties and breeding work.

Sowing directly into the ground

Dahlias are thermophilic plants, therefore, sowing in open ground in the spring can be done only when the last frosts have passed, approximately - in the third decade of May.

Dahlias grown in open ground from seeds will bloom no earlier than August, so many gardeners practice earlier sowing at the end of March with the obligatory use of mini-greenhouses or greenhouses.

Before sowing, the bed is dug up and left for 2-3 days so that the soil is a donkey. The seeds are placed in shallow furrows, the distance between which should be at least 60 cm.

The earth is carefully leveled with a rake, sprinkled with rotted humus to avoid the formation of a surface crust and watered abundantly.

As it grows, thickened places are thinned out so that there is a sufficient gap between the bushes for normal development (about 60 cm).

Growing dahlias for seedlings

Annuals are sown for seedlings in April, while perennial varieties are sown in early March, so that a viable tuber is formed by the plant by autumn.

Seeds are sown in prepared seedling boxes, placing them horizontally, and covered with a thin layer of sand or loose soil (no more than 0.5 cm). The soil mixture is prepared from peat, sand and agroperlite.

Next, the soil is sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle and covered with glass or plastic wrap to create the necessary moisture. As soon as shoots appear on the surface, the shelter is removed.

"Dahlia seedling substrate should not be fertilized either before planting or during growth."

In open ground, seedlings should be planted as soon as 2-3 leaves are formed in the seedlings, not counting the cotyledons. The distance between young dahlias should be at least 5-7 cm.

Many gardeners pick and plant dahlias in small pots with soil from sand, peat and turf in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.

Watering should be moderate, as the root system of dahlias is very sensitive to excess water in the soil. This threatens the development of fungal and bacterial infections.

When to plant dahlias outdoors

The timing of planting dahlias in open ground directly depends on the climatic conditions of the region. Seedlings by this time should be hardened.

To do this, pots or boxes are placed on an open balcony or taken out into the street during daylight hours, gradually increasing the duration of their stay in the fresh air.

In Siberia, dahlias are planted in a permanent place no earlier than mid-June, in the Moscow region and central Russia - from the beginning of June, in the southern regions and in Ukraine - from the third week of May.

Planting seedlings of dahlias in the spring in the ground

If the seedlings are in glass, clay or plastic containers, then 2 hours before planting in a permanent place, they must be thoroughly shed with warm water. Peat and paper containers can be placed in the soil along with the seedlings without disturbing the root system.

Next, you need to dig holes according to the landing pattern. For tall varieties, the distance between plants should be at least 70 cm, for medium varieties - 50 cm, for low-growing ones 30 cm.

A little wood ash and compost are poured at the bottom, mixed with the ground and the seedlings are planted so that the first cotyledon leaves are just above the ground. The flowerbed is watered and mulched.

Planting dahlias with tubers

Growing dahlias from tubers is a traditional method known to all flower growers. They begin to prepare planting material in the spring, in April or early May.

Landing dates

Perennial dahlias are planted in open ground after spring frosts. For central Russia, this is around the 20th of May or early June, you need to be guided by the weather.

In the south, the dates are shifted a couple of weeks ago, in the northern latitudes they are planted a little later.

Tuber preparation

Before the first frost, dahlia tubers are dug out of the ground, washed under running water and dried. Long, conductive roots and stems are trimmed, leaving a few centimeters.

The root collar is sprinkled with ash or crushed coal, this is a good prevention against rot. Planting material until spring is stored in a basement at a temperature of 3-5 ° C, in boxes with peat, sawdust or sand.

For storage in warmer and more humid conditions, the tubers are pre-dipped in heated paraffin - this will reduce moisture evaporation, keeping the planting material from drying out.

Preparing tubers for planting involves the selection of quality material and keeping it in a nutritious substrate. Dried roots are removed from them and examined for possible diseases.

Healthy planting material should be free of rot and stains. The tubers are elastic and not shriveled, the stem is about 2-3 cm, the root collar should have buds.

A month before planting in a flower bed, the tubers are placed in containers with soil so that 2-3 cm remain on the surface.The containers are left in a well-lit place at a temperature of 17-20 ° C for 1.5-2 weeks until they hatch kidneys.

If the dahlia variety is valuable and the tubers are well preserved, several plants can be obtained from them.

Separating tubers before planting

The tubers are cut into segments with a sharp blade so that each has a bud and part of the root collar, usually into 3-5 pieces. The incision sites are treated and returned back to the substrate for further germination. Before planting in open ground, lateral shoots are removed from grown plants (about 15 cm tall).

Attention! "To disinfect a fresh cut, you need to sprinkle it with crushed activated carbon."

Planting tubers

In the flowerbed, holes are dug 30 cm deep (on the bayonet of a shovel) and 40 cm in diameter. Rotted manure or humus is placed on the bottom and sprinkled with soil so as not to cause a burn of the root system.

The plots are placed in holes to such a depth that the tubers are covered with soil by 5-8 cm, and the stems of the sprouts by 1-2 cm. After planting, the place is watered abundantly and sprinkled with mulch from sawdust, peat or needles.

Outdoor Dahlia Care

How to plant and care for dahlias so that powerful and beautiful bushes with a lot of large and long-lasting flowers grow? It is important to choose the right place for them, do not overfill, feed them on time and periodically pinch the stepsons.

Location and lighting

Dahlias love a lot of light and warmth, it's not for nothing that sunny Mexico is their homeland. They grow well in partial shade, but stretch well compared to plants planted in the sun.

Location in deep shade has a detrimental effect on the growth and development of dahlias. In this case, you should not wait for decorativeness and violent flowering.

High varieties are not recommended to be planted in windy areas, as long stems are likely to break in the wind.

Watering rules

Dahlias are drought-resistant plants, but you shouldn't leave them without watering. In the heat, the bushes are abundantly moistened once a week, and the next day the soil is loosened and weeds are weeded. By the end of summer, watering is stopped so that the tubers are better prepared for winter.

"Mulching the soil near the plantings will not only eliminate the lush growth of weeds, but will also retain moisture, which will allow watering less often."

Choice and timing of top dressing

During the summer, it is recommended to feed dahlias every 2 weeks, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. So that the bush does not actively build up the green mass, and gives all its strength to flowers, dahlias are not advised to fertilize with nitrogen-containing agents.

If there is a large amount of humus in the soil, preference should be given to mineral fertilizing, newly developed lands need organic matter.

In autumn, during digging, semi-decomposed manure or compost is added to the soil at the rate of 3-5 kg ​​per 1 m² or bird droppings (1-2 kg per 1 m²). Peat, wood ash, superphosphate are introduced in the spring.

It is inappropriate to fertilize the soil during digging with such means as urea, potassium salt, potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate, since they are quickly washed out of the soil and are not absorbed by the roots.

The best feeding of dahlias during flowering is potash-phosphorus fertilizers. 50 g of superphosphate and 2 glasses of ash are diluted in 10 liters of water. To feed the tubers in August, add 30 g of potassium sulfate at a time. Dahlias are not fertilized in September.

Support for dahlias

Tall varieties need props. The stems of this culture are hollow and can break in a strong wind or under the weight of a flower.

As a support, wooden or plastic pegs are suitable, which it is advisable to drop into the hole at the time of planting the tubers. In this case, damage to the roots can be avoided. As they grow, the stems are tied to a support with a string.

Dahlia pruning

Caring for dahlias includes the formation of a bush and the timely cutting off of stepchildren. If you want to get large and prominent inflorescences, only 3 stems are left on the bush. On each, you need to remove the extra buds, keeping only 1-2.

Side shoots also need to be docked during the season, but they can be used as cuttings. Withering flowers are cut off immediately so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening the seeds, but sends them to new blossoming buds.

Diseases and pests

Common diseases of dahlias are:

• viral mosaic;
• ring spot;
• blackleg;
• powdery mildew:
• fusarium;
• white rot;
• dry rot.

There are not so many pests affecting dahlias, mainly thrips, greenhouse and bean aphids, and scoop caterpillars.

Propagation by cuttings

Many people know how to plant and care for dahlias that have been propagated by tubers and seeds, but there is another interesting breeding method - cuttings.

To do this, the tubers must be planted for germination in January, so that by mid-spring the sprouts reach a height of 6-7 cm. They are carefully cut with a blade or broken off, preferably together with a part of the root collar (in the jargon of gardeners, such cuttings are called "with a heel").

In place of the cuts, new shoots will grow over time, but not as strong as their predecessors.

Cuttings with a heel are planted in containers with a well-moistened, but not frozen substrate and placed in a greenhouse, which is periodically ventilated. You can simply cover the pot with a plastic bag to create the desired moisture.

Cuttings that are too long and overgrown are usually rooted in water. Planting in open ground is carried out in the same way as seedlings.

Experienced growers advise planting cuttings in tight containers, then the tubers will grow thick and compact.

Dahlia varieties

Today, the number of varieties of dahlias has already exceeded 15,000. In the international classification, they are divided into 10 groups:

Simple. The height of the bush is 45-60 cm, the diameter of the flower is up to 10 cm. The inflorescence is a tubular center surrounded by one row of reed petals. Popular varieties are murillo, yellow hammer, alpen sara, agness, mignon, rote funken, funny guys.

Anemonic. They grow up to 90 cm, inflorescence up to 10 cm in diameter. In the center there is a volumetric disc of large tubular flowers, framed by one or more rows of reed flowers. The most famous varieties are: “lambada”, “blue baiyu”, “boogie-woogie”, “polka”, “asakhi chokhi”, “brio”, “honei”.

Decorative. The height of the bush can reach 1.5 m, the diameter of the inflorescence is up to 25 cm. The marginal ligulate flowers are more rounded in shape. The most popular decorative dahlias are “lacquers nambre”, “tartan”, “prince carnival”, “Arabian night”, “rosabela”, “orange”, “ecstasy”.

Spherical.There are undersized (up to 40 cm) and tall varieties (up to 1.5 m). Inflorescences are round, terry, from 7 to 20 cm in diameter. More often than others in flower beds you can see such varieties as: "Evelyn", "Peter", "Sandra", "Kenora fireball", "Sylvia", "Rocco", "Annushka", "Aurora's kiss".

Pompom. They differ from spherical wrapped marginal flowers, the shape of the inflorescence may be slightly flattened. The height of the bush ranges from 50 cm to 1.2 m, pompons - 3-9 cm. Interesting varieties: “Gretchen Heine”, “Acrobat”, “Kid”, “Buntling”, “Baby”, “Anke”, “Albino” , “Andrew Lockwood”.

Nymphaean. Terry inflorescences resembling a water lily. Varieties: "Angora", "Nabat Khatyn", "Kens Flame", "Bahama Red", "Seduction", "Angela".

Collar. They grow up to 1.2 m, the diameter of the inflorescence is up to 10 cm. A distinctive feature of these dahlias is a basket of three types of flowers: at the edges - reed, further a ring of collar, in the center - short tubular. Varieties: “night butterfly”, “fashion monger”, “impression fantastic”, “first grader”, “flamenco”, “heart of danko”, “la gioconda”.

Cactus. Reach a height of 1.5 m, with a flower size of more than 25 cm. This group is distinguished by the needle-like shape of the marginal flowers. Among the varieties we can mention “blutentepich”, “white star”, “black bird”, “jessica”, “windhaven highlight”, “florida”, “ambition”.

Semi-cactus. They differ from the previous group only in that the marginal flowers are rolled into a tube only up to half the length. Popular varieties: Aitara Success, Adlerstein, Ice Princesses, Anna, Andrew Mitchell, Meteor, Verda, Viki, Iceland Delight, Kenora Sunset.

Transitional group. This includes varieties that cannot be classified as any of the above. Bright and unusual varieties are the "pink giraffe" and "bishop of llanduff".

Even a novice florist can grow dahlias in the country. The key to success is choosing the right place, planting it on time and taking care of it regularly throughout the season. Planting and caring for dahlias outdoors is usually straightforward.

If you follow the simple rules of agricultural technology, by the middle of summer, a bright rainbow of colors will spread in the garden, which will delight with its diversity until autumn.