Flowers planting and care in the open field in the fall

With the arrival of spring, hyacinth or the so-called "rain flower" appears on store shelves. This is a miracle of wonders that has something to admire: a rich palette of magnificent inflorescences of star-shaped flowers and juicy bright emerald foliage. The strong pleasant aroma is also delightful. So, if you are imbued with the idea of ​​growing a symbol of spring, love and fidelity in your summer cottage, it will be interesting for you to familiarize yourself with some tips and recommendations for the correct planting of hyacinths in open ground in autumn and spring.

Types and varieties of hyacinths

Today, as a rule, only 3 varieties of hyacinths are distinguished:

The most famous and suitable for cultivation in our gardens and home conditions in pots is the oriental hyacinth.

Carnegie variety There is a fairly large number of varieties of the oriental variety, which in turn are divided by size, color and color of flowers (white, yellow, red, pink, blue, purple, blue, etc.), as well as by the timing of flowering in the early-medium and late flowering, while the difference between their flowering is only one and a half weeks. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to come to the dacha early to catch their flowering, it is better to choose late varieties.

Video: types and varieties of hyacinths

When to plant hyacinths: optimal planting dates in autumn and spring

Naturally, like all bulbous, hyacinths are planted in the fall before winter. At the same time, you need to choose such a time so that the bulbs have time to take root, but do not germinate.That is, if you do this before the necessary time, then the frosts will simply destroy the plant that has sprouted, and if later, then the bulbs will not have time to take root and will freeze again. Therefore, it is very important to know the optimal dates for planting hyacinths in the fall, which will differ depending on the region of your residence and the corresponding climate and weather conditions.

Important! If you planted the bulbs at the right time, but suddenly, according to the weather forecast, a sharp cold snap is expected, then you should increase the layer of mulch or cover the plantings with spruce branches or fallen dry leaves.

Thus, in the middle lane (Moscow region), hyacinths should be planted in the second half of September - early October, in the Urals and Siberia - in late August and early September, and in the southern regions - throughout October.

Is it possible to plant in spring and how to do it

If you were presented with blooming hyacinths in a pot (for example, on March 8 or some other spring holiday), then after they have faded, in order to preserve the bulbs, the plant can be planted in open ground. To do this, you first need to cut off the peduncle so that it does not take excess nutrition from the bulb. You take out the hyacinth bulbs together with the earthen clod and bury them to the same depth at which they grew in the pot, having previously poured a layer of sand on the bottom as drainage. Then cover with nutritious soil and water, wetting the soil around the bulb, and not itself. If suddenly, according to the weather forecast, you find out that return spring frosts are expected, then on this day it is better to cover the plant bulbs with non-woven material. When you see that their leaves are dry, then you should get rid of them by removing with pruners or scissors.

Advice! If for some reason you do not want to plant hyacinths in the spring, then you can do otherwise. Wait until the leaves of the plant dry up and cut them off. After that, get the bulbs, dry them and put them in storage until autumn planting.

Video: planting hyacinths in spring

How to plant hyacinths outdoors

In order to enjoy the beautiful flowering and the favorite aroma of hyacinths for a long time, it is necessary to provide the most suitable place for planting, as well as prepare the bulbs themselves and the soil for further work.

Pick-up location

A properly chosen planting site can greatly facilitate the cultivation of hyacinths in the garden. At home, these bulbs grow in a very warm and dry climate, so they must be planted in sunny areas, without drafts, where there is not the slightest stagnation of water, otherwise the flowers can rot very quickly due to the presence of a very thin skin.

Many people plant hyacinths under trees because they bloom at a time when there is still no dense foliage. However, it should be borne in mind that trees suck out almost all nutrients from the soil.

These bulbous flowers look good on flower bed made of plastic bottles.

As for the neighborhood, it is beautiful to plant hyacinths with other primroses, for example, with hazel grouses, crocuses, daffodils, bulbous irises.

You can put them in a flowerbed of tires, for example withtulips.

By the way! You can grow hyacinths both in large garden pots and in small containers at home on a windowsill or balcony.

Soil preparation

Hyacinths need a neutral soil, and it is imperative that it be loose and moisture-permeable, in other words, the most suitable is sandy loam.

Before planting, it is advisable to dig up the earth to a depth of 40 centimeters and apply organic fertilizers - compost, humus or peat, as well as mineral fertilizers - superphosphate, potash fertilizers (for example, wood ash). And if the soil is heavy (clay), then the sand, too acidic - limestone (dolomite) flour.

Important! In no case should fresh manure be introduced for digging and planting bulbs.

Selection and preparation of bulbs for planting

Naturally, the purchased bulb must be outwardly dry, clean and healthy (without signs of disease and damage, especially at the bottom), and dense and elastic to the touch.

If you want the hyacinth to bloom immediately, it is recommended to choose 4-5 cm bulbs, 2-3 cm bulbs are very young, there will be few flowers, but you should not buy too large 6-7 cm bulbs, these are already quite old specimens that are about to be updated.

Thus, the higher quality planting material you purchase, the better the plant will look and bloom more luxuriantly.

And before planting hyacinths, the bulbs should be pickled and disinfected in a solution of one of the special fungicides, for example, Maxim Dachnik, Fundazol, or in the old-fashioned way in potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.

Direct planting of bulbs

Step-by-step instructions for planting hyacinths in open ground:

1. Decide on a place in your summer cottage, dig up and improve the soil, make planting holes.
2. Prepare and process the bulbs.
3. At the bottom of the hole, drain the sand (2-3 centimeters).
4. The planting depth of hyacinths is 3 times the height of their bulb, that is, if the bulb is 4 cm high - 12 centimeters, 5 cm - 15 centimeters. However, if your soil is light, then you can plant deeper, and if, on the contrary, heavy, then closer to the surface - about 2-3 centimeters.
5. The distance between the bulbs should approximately correspond to the depth of their planting, that is, somewhere between 10-20 centimeters from each other, depending on the size.
6. Place the bulbs on the sand, sprinkle it with sand on top (so as not to rot), and only then cover it with fertile soil.
7. Water the planting site if the ground is dry (if it has recently rained, then this should not be done).
8. Cover with peat or sawdust.

Video: planting hyacinths in open ground in the fall

If you want to make yourself a portable flower bed that you can move depending on which part of the garden you are in (near the house, next to the gazebo), or just dig into the ground (because you like the aesthetic look of flowers in a pot), then watch the next video.

Video: a method of planting hyacinths in large garden pots

Outdoor hyacinth care

Some time after the autumn planting, when the first cold snap begins, if you have not previously mulched your future flower bed with hyacinths, you need to do this now, or even better, cover it with spruce branches or dry fallen leaves (you should not do a heavy shelter), you can use straw.

And in early spring, when the snow melts and you first come to the dacha, the entire shelter will need to be eliminated so as not to interfere with the sprouts making their way towards the sun.

Blossoming of hyacinths, as a rule, occurs in April-May, and the duration is only 1-2 weeks.

Advice! There is a little trick on how to get bigger and taller colors. Namely, in the period before the beginning of budding, you need to cover the flowerbed with hyacinths with a dark (black) film, due to a lack of light, the sprouts will begin to stretch, thereby the peduncles will noticeably increase in height.

Watering

Watering hyacinths should be taken seriously, stagnation of moisture is contraindicated for bulbs, but the earth should not dry out, so try to moderately and shallowly moisten the flower bed. Especially often (but not abundantly) it is necessary to water the plant during the period of its budding and the beginning of flowering, as well as within 2 weeks after.

Advice! Do not forget to loosen the soil after each watering so that the ground does not crack and the flower bed looks beautiful.

Top dressing

Top dressing is a very important point of care in growing hyacinths. The standard scheme looks like this (* the consumption of any mineral fertilizer is about 40 grams per 10 liters of water, or better according to the instructions on the package):

1. The first top dressing must be done immediately after the first shoots appear, at this moment the plant needs nitrogen to grow the leaf mass (for example, it can be urea, ammonium nitrate or some kind of green fertilizer).
2. The second time is fed shortly before flowering, that is, during the budding period - to obtain lush flowers. At this point, the plant needs potassium-phosphorus feeding (more potassium) and a little nitrogen (for example, you can use potassium chloride or ash and superphosphate, as well as a little urea or ammonium nitrate, although nitrogen is already present in the superphosphate itself, therefore, additional fertilization can be dispensed with).
3. The last (third) top dressing is at the end of flowering. The plant needs more phosphorus and a little potassium (i.e. superphosphate and potassium chloride or ash).

Thus, if you water and feed hyacinths in a timely manner, they will delight you with their beautiful, lush and fragrant flowering.

And after flowering, be sure to cut the peduncles so that the plant directs all its forces to provide the bulb. Now it remains to wait until the leaves of the flowers fade and turn yellow, so that they can be dug up for the summer before the next autumn planting.

When to dig up and how to store hyacinth bulbs

By the way! If crocuses and daffodils you can not dig it up for 3-5 years, then hyacinths are advised to disturb and get out of the ground Every year... Although some growers have been successful in allowing these bulbs to grow in the garden until 3 years old, but it should be understood that a flower bud is laid only if the bulb lies for 3 months in a warm and dry room.

Bulbs of hyacinths, as a rule, are carefully dug up (stepping back from the bush by 8-10 centimeters) after they have withered, dry up (but not completely) and the leaves turn yellow (about May-June, about 3 weeks after flowering). Then they should be thoroughly rinsed under water in order to immediately discard low-quality bulbs.

Now the future planting material needs to be disinfected in one of the special means, such as Maxim Dachnik or Fundazol, or to prepare a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then dry well, and before the mortgage itself for storage, peel (if desired, you can wrap it in newspaper) and put the bulbs in boxes (for example, from under shoes), bags or containers and store them in a warm and dry place. It is noteworthy that for the first time you need to store at a sufficiently high temperature (+25 - .. + 30 degrees), and then gradually lower it so that before disembarking it is about +17 degrees.

If during the digging you see babies on the bulbs, then they can be separated and thereby multiply the hyacinths, preserving them in the summer and planting them separately in the fall.

If you deliberately decided to start growing hyacinths in the open field in autumn and spring, then choose the right variety and correctly determine the timing of planting in the ground. It would also be very wise to prepare the bulbs and soil in advance for planting. It is equally important to know how to store hyacinths.

Video: planting, care, growing, digging and storing hyacinths

November 30, 2015 Flowers Alienteu

With the arrival of autumn, it's time to think about what our gardens will be like in the spring. Anyone who dreams of blooming spring flower beds should definitely plant bulbous plants in their area. Some of them can be planted only in spring, others also in summer. But many bulbous flowers are planted in the fall. And although they bloom, as a rule, in the spring, they are called autumn. When other flowers are still growing, and the trees are beginning to wake up, the autumn bulbs are already blooming. They will become the real pearl of your garden.

Planting bulbous flowers before winter will ensure their early awakening. Now, when all their other bedding brothers shed their leaves and go into a state of sleep, these wonderful plants are already preparing to delight us with the first warm days.

Flowers that develop from bulbs are an ideal solution even for novice gardeners, because they are quite unpretentious to care for. The main requirement is a thorough selection of planting material and landing site.

Types of autumn bulbous

Consider first what kind of bulbous flowers are planted in the fall.

• Muscari (mouse hyacinth or viper bow) - perennial small plant (about 30 cm). The inflorescences resemble a bunch of grapes. Leaves come straight from the roots, flowers can be blue, purple, blue or white. It smells good of musk.
• Crocus (saffron) - a small plant, does not exceed 25 cm. It can be monochromatic: white, yellow, blue, purple, and also two-colored. His leaves are, as it were, collected in a bunch and they sprout simultaneously with the flower. The familiar saffron seasoning is made from the dried stigmas of this plant.
• Scylla (scrub) - a small plant. Has basal leaves. The flowers are shaped like stars and bells. They are located singly or collected in a brush on a flower arrow 10-15 cm. The color is most often blue and blue, less often it is pink, white and purple.
• Hyacinth - root rosette is formed from narrow long leaves. Fleshy peduncle up to 30 cm. Bell flowers with petals slightly curved upwards. In the inflorescence-brush there are 35 or more flowers. It comes in a variety of colors, has a pleasant aroma.
• Narcissus - are one-color - yellow, white or sometimes pinkish, as well as two-color varieties are very beautiful. Has a pleasant tart aroma.
• Tulip - plant from 10 to 80 cm tall. Large, long leaves. The flowers are very diverse in shape: goblet, cup-shaped, lily, sometimes with fringes along the edge of the petals, there are double varieties. Can be of any color, except blue tones.
• Imperial hazel grouse (fritillaria) - a plant with a strong stem. At the top of the peduncle is a tuft of green leaves, under them are inflorescences consisting of large drooping bell flowers (resembles a royal crown). The height of the flowering plant is 1-1.5 m. The bulbs have an unpleasant smell, but when the plant blooms, this smell becomes almost imperceptible.

Cooking the bulbs and soil

Hyacinth bulbs

We have decided on the types of flowers, now we will move on to preparing the bulbs for planting in the ground.

We carefully select the planting bulbs. Damaged, with specks, soft and darkened, we throw it away without regret. Only from relatively large, as well as even and necessarily hard bulbs will a strong and healthy plant grow. The bulb should not have a soft neck or bottom, overgrown roots, or a strongly sprouted stem. Good planting material is already half the battle. Immediately before planting, you can soak the bulbs for half an hour in the "Maxim" preparation for the prevention of rot.

Bulbous plants are planted in an area sufficiently lit and well protected from the wind. They love loose and permeable soil, therefore, in order to avoid bulb diseases, water stagnation must be excluded. Remove all weeds by the root. Dig up the area (about the size of a shovel bayonet). Apply fertilizer. It is better to use mineral fertilizers, compost or wood ash (manure cannot be used as fertilizer for bulbous plants). Fertilizer should be a little, since bulbous do not like an overabundance.

If the soil on the site is too dense or clayey, then it is better to drain sand about 5 cm (you can also use crushed stone or gravel). Bulbous flowers can be planted under tree branches, because when they bloom, there will be no leaves on the trees.

We plant correctly and on time

Planting bulbous flowers in the fall requires some knowledge and a little intuition. Plants planted too early can germinate and freeze. And too late - they will not have time to put down roots and disappear. Planting times depend on bulb size and climatic zone. You need to start planting when the soil temperature is 9-10 degrees, and finish 2-3 weeks before serious frosts with freezing of the soil. Small-bulbous plants take longer to root, so they are planted early.

Let's draw up an approximate schedule for when it is better to plant various bulbous flowers:

• hazel grouse - beginning of September;
• muscari, crocuses, scilla - mid-September;
• daffodils - end of September;
• hyacinths - early October;
• tulips - mid-October.

The planting depth, as well as the distance between them, directly depends on the type of plant, the size of the bulbs and soil. As a general rule, the depth should be 3 times the height of the bulb itself, and the width should be 4 times its diameter. When the soil is heavy, it is a couple of centimeters higher, and if it is light, it is deeper.

A deeply planted bulb will give few children, although it will increase in size. If it's small, it's the other way around. Densely planted flowers will grow weakened and more susceptible to disease. Place the bulb upside down in the planting hole and sprinkle with earth. Then, gently compact the soil lightly to avoid damaging the bulb. After planting, be sure to water it - this is necessary for normal rooting.

They can winter without shelter. You can mulch the bulbs with peat; other materials are also used for this (garden compost, decorative bark, wood chips). If the winter will be without snow and very frosty, then the planting sites can be covered with dry leaves, needles or straw.

You do not need to plant bulbous flowers in one place for 4-5 years, and you can not transplant within 3-5 years. Over time, the plant multiplies and several bulbs of different sizes appear in place of one, as a result of which they become small and gradually stop blooming.

In June, when the leaves of the bulbous plants have already dried up, the old roots die off, and the new ones do not grow yet. At this moment, you need to dig up the bulbs. A fine sunny day is best for this. They need to be thoroughly dried so that there is no moisture between the scales. Then clear from the earth, stems, leaves, separate the children. And store until autumn. To prevent the bulbs from freezing and drying out, the storage temperature is 10-15 degrees.

Disembarkation planning

Planting bulbous flowers in the fall gives the gardener a great opportunity to express their imagination and create the foundations of future flower arrangements. Then you will not need to think about decorating flower beds in spring.

In the shade of trees and shrubs, simple tulips and daffodils look spectacular in the garden. They will add brightness and fun to the monotonous areas of the garden.

One of the interesting options for planting bulbous flowers before winter is the creation of large flowering lawns, which by summer will be replaced by simple lawn grass. However, it must be borne in mind that bulbous plants cannot be mowed, they must wither naturally. For example, daffodils take about 8 weeks. Therefore, primroses are best suited for such lawns: crocuses, scilla, snowdrops. They fade quickly and free up space. Moreover, the combination of these flowers with the first grass will give the effect of an alpine meadow.

In a classic garden with strict lines, monoclbeds and tulip mixborders will be appropriate. They will well emphasize the brevity of the style.

Crocuses and woodlands will look very harmonious on an alpine slide or in a rockery. Alpine slide can be decorated with high-stemmed tulips and various flower shapes.

Make some color accent too. By planting, for example, daffodils next to hazel grouse. Or play with the contrast of daffodils and deep blue muscari.

You can create flower beds from only one bulbous flower. Plant them tightly in the center and a little less often at the edges. Or, tall bulbous flowers can be planted in the center, and the edges can be decorated with undersized ones.

If you plant first bulbous flowers in groups of 5-10 pcs., Then between them you can plant forget-me-nots, daisies, pansies. You will get a beautiful mixed composition.

A few important tips

... It may happen that for some reason the autumn planting dates were missed, then tulips can be planted until December. Only the ground should not be frozen (so that the shovel freely enters the ground) and after planting it is imperative to cover the flower bed with straw, spruce branches, and dry leaves.

2. To combat mice and other rodents that eat bulbs, planting is carried out in special baskets. You can also treat the bulbs with a repellent or try using hot pepper infusion or tobacco juice for a one-time watering of the soil.

... Scylla can be planted on a green lawn by cutting and peeling back a small layer of sod with grass. Then loosen the soil a little and put the bulbs. Now we put the lawn layer back in place and lightly tamp it. Be sure to water well. The grass on the lawn will not be damaged, and in the spring, beautiful little flowers will appear among it.

Most of the bulbous flowers are planted in the fall, and when they are among the first to appear in the spring, they inform us that winter is over. And although there is often snow in some places, green pets fill the garden with bright warm colors, give us a joyful spring mood, awaken hope for a miracle in our souls.

Bulbous flower varieties form a separate group of plants that are cultivated and cared for in a special way. Therefore, the planting of bulbous flowers in the fall should be carried out using a special technology in order to get strong and lush plants next year.

What bulbous to plant

In order for planting bulbous varieties of flowers before winter to be successful, it is necessary to understand which varieties (multi-tiered, etc.) and when should be planted in open ground. The fact is that different varieties differ from each other not only in the characteristics of the buds, but also in the timing of planting. If the bulb is planted too early in the fall, it will begin to sprout and freeze when the cold weather sets in. With a late planting, the plant will not have time to take root and will die. It is no longer possible to save him.

You need to know that the time to complete this procedure depends not only on varietal characteristics, but also on factors such as the size of the planting material and weather conditions. Experienced growers note that planting should be started when the ground temperature has dropped to 9-10 ° C. The procedure should be completed approximately 2-3 weeks before frost begins and the soil freezes.

Video "Planting bulbous flowers in the fall"

In this video, an expert will talk about planting flowers such as lilies, hyacinths, tulips and crocuses in the fall.

Let's take a closer look at which bulbous flowers you need to plant in the fall.

In September

In early September, it is necessary to plant species such as rudbeckia, solidago, phlox and astilde. This is a great time to dig up the bulbs and store them. It is worth noting that the excavation must be carried out correctly in order to prevent damage to the workpieces. The bulbs should be treated before storage to protect them from rot and disease. During storage, the plants must also be protected from rodents.

In the first decade of the month, flowers are also transplanted to a new location. Bulbous varieties should be transplanted periodically (every 4-5 years) so that they do not disappear. In the process of transplanting, you can propagate plants by dividing the bush.

In early autumn, small-bulbous species (for example, Pushkinia, Scylla, Chionodox, Muscari and Crocuses) should be planted in the soil. In the second half of the month, plant daffodils in the ground, and a week later - hyacinths. In the last decade of September, you should start planting tulips.

In October

In October, until the middle of the month, hyacinths and tulips are planted. Some say that hyacinths need to be planted at the beginning of the month, and tulips in the middle. It should be noted that in this case, the plants will better cope with the pathogenic microflora.

In November

This month you can plant tulips in open ground, but only if there is one condition - the year must be warm. At the same time, the temperature this month should not fall below +5 ° C. Otherwise, the bulbs will slow down in growth or even die.

At this time, the corm flower can be planted at home. If you take care of it correctly, then in the spring you can plant a rather tall and strong plant in open ground. Remember that tulip care during the winter must be optimal so that they begin to bloom on time.

At home, flowers are usually distilled for the winter and spring holidays. You can also store the bulbs in the refrigerator and plant them in the ground in the spring.

Now it is clear when to plant bulbous varieties of flowers in the fall.

Landing features

Autumn bulbous flowers must be planted using a specific technology. But in order for the plants to take root in a new place, you need to choose the right site and prepare the land. If everything is done right, then in the spring the first shoots in the flowerbed will appear just in time.

Site selection and soil preparation

The choice of a site for growing bulbous plants is a very important stage. The quality of its implementation directly depends on how quickly new residents of the flower bed can germinate after winter. A well-lit place is chosen. Cold air masses should not pass through it. Moisture should also not accumulate on the site or groundwater should come close to the surface.

In order for such flowers to grow in autumn, the soil in which they were planted must be nutritious. A neutral or slightly acidic environment is desirable. Therefore, the land is prepared in advance. Preparation is carried out 2 months before the estimated time of disembarkation. Fertilizer (compost) should be added to the soil, which will correct the acidity of the soil. Also, moisture-retaining and loosening components can be added to the ground.

Landing technology

Bulbs must be protected from pathogenic microflora that lives in the ground. For this, they are treated with special agents (fungicides) or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. When the plants are ready, we can start planting them. Bulbous flowers are planted using the following technology:

• first you need to water the place so that the dry soil is soaked. Watering the ground is necessary only when it is dry;
• it is not recommended to loosen the soil, since otherwise, during precipitation, the roots will rise and the flower will turn out to be small and weak;
• then the depth at which the bulb is planted is determined. This parameter depends on the plant variety. As a general rule, the depth is equal to one third of the height of the bulb. In this case, the width of the hole should be 4 times the diameter. In the case of heavy soils, the depth decreases by several centimeters, and in light soils, it increases;
• then a furrow is made with a hoe. Bulbs are planted in it at regular intervals (the distance depends on the type of flower). Then the planting material is covered with earth and in this form it remains to winter.

In some regions with a harsh climate, beds with such plants are covered with material for the winter in order to protect the plantings from freezing. In the spring, when the snow melted, the bed opens up.

Knowing the technology described above, planting bulbs in the Moscow region or in any other region will take place without problems.

Autumn is a hot season for flower growers. It's time to sigh sadly, remembering the past summer, and roll up your sleeves - there is still a lot of work before winter! One of the most important is the autumn planting of bulbous plants. Do not flatter yourself, believing that all you need is to loosen the earth and stick an onion into it. This is done by flower growers who do not take into account the needs of plants, but we are not like that?

Having decided to tell everything I know about the autumn planting of bulbs, I ran into a problem. Our club has brought together plant lovers from different regions - how to give universal recommendations for the inhabitants of the Urals and the Caucasus in one article? Sincerely wishing that the material would be useful to everyone, I decided to highlight

the most important principles of autumn planting bulbous.These are universal rules, knowing which, you can easily navigate the timing of planting, determine the need

shelter for the winter

and other subtleties relevant to your region.

Landing time

On average, a bulb takes root in non-frozen ground in 2 weeks. This is where we should proceed. Surely you already know when it's time for stable frosts. Of course, Mother Nature can sometimes present unpleasant surprises - a thaw after persistent frosts or a sharp onset of winter after a long warm autumn. Don't panic, we have everything under control!

If your bulbs managed to sprout, and then suddenly winter came, they just need to cover... Lapwood, hay, straw, fallen leaves - whatever is at hand will do. This does not apply to sprouts of daffodils and tulips - they winter wonderfully under the snow.

Another variant: frost has come, and you have not yet planted bulbous... No matter how wild it sounds, you can still plant them: there are several thaws ahead, during which the earth will warm up enough for the bulbs to take root. This can be done if the soil is not frozen to the planting depth. This is the way for those looking for early spring bloom.

If the timing of flowering is not critical, plant the bulbs in the spring, they will overwinter excellently outside the soil. The value of the autumn planting of bulbs is that it allows you to get the earliest flowering. By the way, if in the fall plant the bulbs at intervals of 5-7 days, then in the spring you can get a flower bed that blooms continuously for a month, or even longer! Try it - the result will pleasantly surprise you. Moreover, you can use bulbs of the same type and variety - the planting time will delimit the time of their flowering.

Bulb planting site

Again, I will give the basic principles, and you really adapt to them. What do you need to protect bulbs wintering in the open field? From frost, contact with groundwater and from excess dryness of the soil... What does it mean? This means that the bulbs must spend the winter in soil that is moist below their planting level and dry above them. Hard? Far from it!

If you have planted the bulbs in a place with high groundwater levels, make sure that precipitation cannot penetrate your plantings for the winter period. That is, cover this area with a film, shield, profile sheet - whatever you can. This method is called dry wintering.

Keep in mind that bulbs that have been growing in a permanent place for more than one year winter better. Therefore, you should not dig up tulips, crocuses, daffodils and other bulbs every year. They are can grow without replanting for 3-4 years, this period will not at all affect the size of the plant, the duration and decorativeness of flowering.

Soil composition

Very important, be sure to read! Bulbous plants start growing in the fall, so it is very important that this start is successful. What is needed for this? Nutritious soil. It will have to be prepared in advance. You know that planting bulbs in the same place is not recommended? Of course - after all, pathogens could remain in the soil, and even bulbs treated with fungicides are at risk. In order not to expose the plants to the danger of infection and to preserve their own planting material, it is better to plant them in a new place.

It should be sunny, inaccessible to strong winds, with a low level of groundwater, with fertile permeable soil. Remember the acidity level! Bulbous love slightly acidic or neutral soils... Experts advise to prepare a place for planting bulbs in advance, 2 months in advance. Composting, adjusting acidity, adding soil loosening and moisture-retaining components - do not neglect anything! Do you want to get large plants with a full set of varietal traits?

Planting bulbs

So we got to the most important thing - landing. It is well known that planting depth you need to choose this way: in loose soil - 3 heights, in dense soil - 2 heights of the size of the bulbs. As a practitioner, I can advise my planting method.

I never loosen the soil in which I plant bulbs. So I prepared it 2 months ago, during this time it rained, it thickened a little, but it doesn't matter. I make grooves with a hoe and plant bulbs in them. My principle is that the bottom of the onion should run into a dense layer of soil... Why? I'll explain now.

I used to think that it would be easier for the roots of the bulbs to grow into loose soil, so I dug up the flower beds for planting to the depth of a shovel. How wrong I was! Look: the bulb is planted, is taking root. It is very important not to disturb them! What happens in the case of dug up soil? The bulb has taken root, the soil is saturated with precipitation and gradually settles, the roots rise upward. What will we get as a result? Weakened plant with late development and flowering. I am already silent about its size. In general, take into account my sad experience and plant the bulbs in non-dug soil, you will not regret it.

Do the bulbs need to be processed before planting? I always use a fungicide, especially for newly purchased planting material. Another important condition for success is watering after planting, it is needed if the ground was dry.

I tried to mention the most important principles and rules for planting bulbs in autumn. But, if you still have questions, ask! Maybe share your experience? It would be great, because there is never too much of it)

What a spring without tulips and hyacinths, daffodils and crocuses! But we need to take care of a flower bed with bulbs in the fall, so that the plants will delight us with early flowering.

Dates of planting bulbous flowers in the fall.

Unfortunately, there is no single term for all regions. Too different weather conditions in the north of the country and in the south. Therefore, we have collected general recommendations, being guided by which, you can decide on the timing of planting yourself.

On average, a bulb takes two weeks to take root.... From here and count down the time when it will be necessary to place them in the ground. But the weather has its own rules. Sometimes unexpected frosts take us by surprise, and sometimes thaws come in the midst of a fierce winter. But this should not scare us, because we cannot foresee such surprises, but we must prepare for them.

Do not despair if sprouts have already appeared on your flower bed, and frost has unexpectedly hit. Young leaves must be covered. Any material that you have at hand will do: spruce branches, straw, fallen leaves, and so on.

Moreover, the sprouts of tulips and daffodils can winter well under the snow. Therefore, it is worth worrying only if the frosts have already come, and the ground has not yet been covered with snow.

If frost has begun, and you have not had time to plant flowers. Don't worry, the first frost is always followed by a thaw, and there will be enough for your plants to take root. You can start planting if the ground has not yet frozen to the depth necessary for the growth of the plant.

Choosing a landing site.

What should be protected from bulbous in order to get strong plants with large flowers?

From frost, groundwater and dry soil. That is, the ideal conditions look like this: groundwater moistens the soil under the bulb, but does not affect it itself, the soil above the bulb remains dry, and there is also protection from frost.

It seems incredibly difficult. Don't be alarmed. If the water table is too high in your area in the spring, then make sure that as little moisture as possible penetrates the bulbs during the winter. Just cover them with something that is waterproof, such as a film, or a shield, or a piece of roofing material.

Thus, you will arrange a "dry winter" for your flowers.

In nature, bulbs grow in open spaces. Therefore, it is best to choose a place in the garden for them that is sufficiently sunny.But keep in mind that in the brightest sunshine, your plants will fade much faster than if they are covered with a light shade on the floor.

A place where the sun appears only for half a day is also suitable. Keep in mind that high humidity in the area of ​​the roots leads to their rotting, and a strong draft will ruffle the buds and steal some of the decorativeness of your flower bed.

Preparing the soil for planting.

You should not constantly plant bulbs in the same place. Crop rotation principles work for flowers as well. Planting each year increases the number of parasites and diseases in the soil that are specific to that particular plant. Bulbous plants do not grow in acidic soil.

The most suitable acidity for them is neutral. It is worth taking care of the landing site in advance. The fact is that these plants love loose soil around the bulb, but it is desirable that the bottom lie on dense soil.

Imagine that the bulbs have already given roots, and the loose soil has settled after watering or rainfall. The roots are damaged and the plant is stressed. To avoid this, the soil is prepared in advance. Compost is added, if necessary, to reduce acidity, sand is added to make it friable.

In a couple of weeks, the soil will have time to compact and settle. This means that the roots will grow without stress.

We plant the bulbs in the ground.

Planting depth should correspond to: in loose soil - the height of three bulbs, and in dense soil - to the height of two bulbs.

Before planting, it will not be superfluous to treat the bulbs with a fungicide or potassium permanganate.

If the weather is rainy, then additional watering is not required.

In dry weather, watering is essential for rooting.

Those bulbs that did not have time to give the roots will perish in frosts.

IMPORTANT! Do not repot or dig up the bulbs every year. Best of all, those who have lived in one place for three or four years winter and bloom later.

By the way, the first flowers are so pleasing to our eyes! But their flowering is too short-lived. If you plant bulbs in the fall with an interval of five to seven days, then in the spring your flower bed can bloom continuously for a month.

After all, the earlier you planted the bulb in the fall, the earlier it will bloom in the spring.

Do you want your flower garden to sparkle with bright colors next season? We will tell you what flowers to plant in the fall in the country.

Newbies who decide for the first time to plant a flower bed on their site often ask themselves the question: when to plant perennial flowers? Many plants can be planted twice a season - in spring and autumn. But some crops do not develop well during spring planting, so it is better to plant and transplant these flowers in September-October.

Benefits of planting flowers in autumn

• Planted or sown plants bloom in the first year of the growing season and have more resistant immunity: they are less susceptible to diseases and pests.
• In winter, you do not need to grow seedlings of one and perennials and then transplant flowers into the soil according to the lunar calendar.
• In winter, the seeds in the soil undergo natural stratification, so spring seedlings are not afraid of recurrent frosts and bloom 2-3 weeks earlier than plants sown in spring.

So don't waste your time and get to work before winter comes into its own. So let's see what kind of perennial flowers you can plant in the fall.

Astilba

Astilba is preferably transplanted (by dividing the bush) in early September. Before planting, they dig up the earth, remove the rhizomes of weeds and fertilize the soil with compost, decomposed peat and rotted manure (2 buckets per square meter). The planted astilbe bushes are mulched with bark, straw or sawdust.

Brunner

The transplant of these flowers is also carried out in the fall at the beginning of September. In the spring, only large-leaved brunner can be transplanted.

Brunner is transplanted on a cloudy day or in the evening. The bush is divided into parts so that each of them has a bud of future growth, and placed in pre-prepared holes. After which the planting is watered abundantly.

Verbeynik point

The verbeynik is planted in September or October in moist soil, the main thing is that by this time there are no young leaves on the plant. The bushes are planted in the fall every 3 years, since this unpretentious plant quickly fills the site.

Geichera

Heuchera is transplanted in the fall after the end of flowering. At the same time, young delenki for the winter must be covered with dry oak leaves so that they do not freeze.

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• 7 features of growing Heuchera

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Delphinium

Delphinium can live in one place for up to 10 years. Then it needs to be transplanted. And the first half of September is a great time for this activity. Many gardeners argue whether it is possible to replant flowers in late autumn. We are still of the opinion that it is not worth delaying the transplant, since in regions with a cool climate, the delphinium may not have time to take root before frost.

The plant prefers slightly acidic or neutral, well-drained, loose and fertile soils (ideally loam).

Dicenter

The time for planting the dicenter is also chosen so that the bush has time to take root before the onset of frost. It is best to plant and transplant the plant no later than September. "Broken Heart" prefers moderately moist and well-drained soil, which it is advisable to prepare in spring.

The bush is planted in a hole with a diameter and depth of 40 cm.A layer of rubble or broken brick is poured at the bottom of the hole, a layer of garden soil mixed with compost is placed on top, the root system of the seedling is placed in the hole and the hole is filled to the top with the same garden soil with compost.

• Growing a dicenter in the garden

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Lupine

Lupine is planted in early September. It can grow on any soil, but turns yellow on alkaline soil. When planting, it is recommended to introduce peat. In addition, in the fall (late October - early November), you can sow lupine seeds in open ground. They are simply sprinkled with a layer of peat. In the spring, the seeds will sprout and at the beginning of summer they will already delight you with delicate flowers.

Poppy

When planting a poppy, it is necessary to choose a place with a deep bed of groundwater, since this bright plant does not tolerate stagnation of liquid in the soil. Poppy seeds germinate well in both spring and autumn sowing. However, sowing before winter allows you to get an earlier flowering.

Perennial aster

Perennial (alpine) aster prefers sunny areas, but it can grow in partial shade. In deep shade, the shoots stretch out, flowering becomes scarce. In addition, aster does not like damp places and stagnant water: its roots can rot.

Aster seeds are sown outdoors in November - early December. It is important that the ground is already slightly frozen. In the spring, seedlings are planted in a permanent place - next year they will bloom.

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Nivyanik

This flower, similar to the common chamomile and chrysanthemum, is very easy to grow. But for him you need to find a sunny place with loose and drained soil. Syrian seeds are sown in September to a depth of 1.5-2 cm; they are mulched with peat on top.

Pyrethrum

Feverfew is sown immediately after harvesting the seeds - in mid-September. In this case, the distance between the seeds should be 20-25 cm. If the seedlings grow densely, they are thinned out. The plant blooms only in the second year, but it decorates the garden with bright daisy flowers twice a season (in early summer and in the first half of September).

Primrose

Seeds of primrose (primrose) are sown immediately after harvest, as they quickly lose their germination.Seedlings grow very slowly, so it is better to sow primrose in containers. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings dive into more spacious boxes. And in the second year of life in the fall, the plants are transplanted into open ground. The ideal planting site is partial shade created by garden trees and shrubs.

• Garden primrose - features of plant care

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Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia grows in one place for no more than 5 years, after this time it needs to be transplanted. It is best to do this in the fall after the end of flowering - in the second half of September. If you want to grow rudbeckia from seeds, then sowing seedlings should be carried out in the spring (late March - early April).

Herbaceous peony

In early September, bushes of herbaceous peonies are divided and planted. The stems of the plant are cut by 1/3, with the help of a sharp shovel they dig in the bush, then carefully take it out of the ground, wash it under running water. Then they are cut into pieces with 3-5 buds and several healthy roots, they dig holes with a depth and diameter of about 50 cm and send peony bushes there, sprinkling with soil so that the upper bud on the root collar is 3-5 cm below the ground level.

• Peonies: how to divide and transplant bushes

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Garden yarrow

Small seeds of yarrow are sown superficially before winter, sprinkling with a thin layer of soil. When the seedlings have 3-5 true leaves, they are planted in a permanent place according to the 25 × 60 cm scheme.

Phlox

Phlox are planted in the first half of September, by which time the plants should already have growth buds. Flowers "settle" in a sunny area with well-moistened soil, keeping the distance between the bushes 40-60 cm.

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Hosta

In the fall, you should divide the hosts no later than a month before frost so that the delenki have time to take root. And it's best to do it in cloudy weather. Most hosts can also be transplanted in spring and summer, but species such as Tokudama and Siebolda (and their hybrids) only tolerate autumn transplanting.

• Autumn host division - how to propagate an ornamental plant yourself

  Instructions for a beginner on how to propagate a host by dividing a bush.

Woolly chisel

The seeds can be sown in spring, summer and fall. This unpretentious plant grows well at any time of the year. It is preferable to do a transplant (dividing a bush) in the fall in cool weather.

The plant is planted in a sunny or semi-shady area. But keep in mind: the more light the purse receives, the more shiny and silvery its leaves will be. Woolly purse prefers light, loose and well-drained soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction. It is desirable that there is little nitrogen in the soil.

Echinacea

The beautiful and healing echinacea blooms in the second year after planting and decorates the garden with colorful flowers from July to September. True, provided that you give her a place in bright sunlight.

An adult plant sold in a container can be transplanted outdoors from spring to late autumn. And if you want to get echinacea from seeds, then you have to wait for winter: this flower is grown in seedlings.

Biennials that can be sown before winter

Now you know what perennial flowers can be planted in the fall. But at the end of the season it is worth remembering the biennials as well. These equally attractive plants are also often sown before winter.

• Features of caring for biennial plants

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Forget-me-not

Forget-me-not seeds are sown at the end of October to a depth of 5-6 mm. In this case, the soil should be light (you can take turf and sand in a ratio of 2: 1).The most suitable place for a plant is partial shade. In April-May, the forget-me-not grows a rosette of leaves, and the next year it blooms.

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Aquilegia (catchment, orlik)

Aquilegia is sown immediately after harvesting the seeds, as they quickly lose their germination. And in the spring, after the shoots appear, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. Plants bloom the next year.

Stock-rose (mallow)

Mallow looks perfect along the walls of houses and fences. A light soil with a neutral reaction and filled with organic and mineral fertilizers is suitable for her. Two-year-old mallow is sown in containers in May, and in the fall (early September), the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place in the ground.

Turkish carnation

Before winter, Turkish carnations are sown in October to a depth of 1 cm, while both the planting material and the soil must be dry. Otherwise, the seeds will not survive in the autumn frost. For the winter, the sowing site is mulched with peat or humus (layer thickness 10 cm). And in spring, the risen seedlings are protected from the bright sun, shading them with spunbond.

The presented list does not contain all the plants that can be planted in the fall. Before winter, most bulbous primroses are also planted in the ground. How to do it correctly, read the article Autumn planting of bulbous flowers.

Muscari planting and care in the open field photo

The age of primroses is short-lived, but beautiful. Even in a short period of their active growing season, they manage to bring joy to the hearts of gardeners, announcing the arrival of spring. Meadows and fields, gardens and parks are illuminated with bright heads, bringing notes of warmth to the landscape that has just awakened from winter sleep. One of the first to appear is the mouse hyacinth with its bright blue inflorescences. An unpretentious perennial will easily fit into a garden design, even if you have no experience in flower cultivation at all. This article will tell you about the muscari primrose planting and care in the open field photo of the plant, the subtleties of growing and reproduction.

Muscari: origin, description, photo

The bulbous perennial received the Latin name Muscari thanks to the botanist F. Miller. The scientist noted that the scent of flowers is similar to the scent of musk. The plant is included in the Asparagus family, but the ancient botanical classification put it on a par with hyacinths. The external similarity of these cultures has only minor differences, so the name of the mouse hyacinth has taken root among the people. The perennial was nicknamed the viper onion because of the old stories in which it was narrated about the eating of deciduous mass by snakes. In fact, the reptiles simply basked in the sunny meadows, where primroses often grow.

Informative! Other synonymous names for the bulbous culture are associated with bright appearance and love of moisture - rain flower, grape hyacinth, earthy lilac.

Representatives of the genus Muscari are low herbaceous plants, the underground part of which is represented by a perennial bulb. The form of the vegetative organ is ovoid, the covering scales are painted in light colors. The length of the onion is from 1.5 to 4 cm, the diameter is 20 mm.

With the arrival of spring, fleshy narrow-lanceolate leaves, covered with pronounced parallel veins, sprout from the bulb. The length of the leaf blades is 10-17 cm, they form a basal rosette. Each rosette consists of 2-7 leaves.

Erect bare peduncle ends with a multi-flowered raceme. The flowers are simple, like a bell. The corolla consists of six fused petals with a bent serrated edge. The length of the flower-bearing brush is 2-8 cm. Each bud is attached to the stem by a shortened pedicel. Depending on the species and variety, the color of the petals can be white, yellow, pink, but the main gamut is blue-violet. Some varieties have a combined color; a white skirt runs along the edge of the blue perianth.The shape of the corolla also depends on the species. There are barrel-shaped, tubular and cylindrical flowers.

Inside the flower there are 6 stamens with blue or purple anthers and one pistil. The apical buds are sterile and serve to attract pollinators. During flowering, a thick, pleasant aroma spreads through the garden.

Know! By its nature, the culture belongs to the ephemeroids. In a short vegetative period, a tiny bush 10-30 cm high manages to germinate, blossom, and form seeds. The rest of the time, the viper bow rests and accumulates strength for wintering.

After the flowers wither, spherical or heart-like boxes with three chambers are formed. Viper onion seeds are very small, shriveled, black. Seed material quickly loses its germination capacity.

The Mediterranean is considered to be the homeland of the primrose. The largest number of varieties is concentrated in the territory of this region. The range also includes Europe, western Asia and North Africa. Bright heads grow on grassy slopes, along forest edges, in mountainous areas covered with forests, near melting snows.

The introduction led to the naturalization of the Mediterranean in Australia, North America. About 10 species of mouse hyacinth have spread across the territory of Russia. More often found on the Crimean peninsula, the Caucasus. The population of the Caucasus is fighting hard against flower thickets that sprout at the site of planting of various crops.

The healing properties of muscari

The composition of primrose petals includes esters, alcohols, flavonoids, organic acids and ascorbic acid. The combination of these substances endowed mouse hyacinth with anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, bactericidal, anti-aging properties.

Attention! Official medicine does not use preparations based on plant bulbs. They contain plant alkaloids.

Traditional medicine uses only alcoholic infusions of petals and essential oil. This limitation is due to the fact that the perennial is poisonous. Inflorescences are used as medicinal raw materials. Alcohol extracts are used exclusively for external use. Use should be limited to children, pregnant women, allergy sufferers. Inflammatory skin diseases, burns, open wounds, acne in Asian countries are treated with an alcohol extract of the petals.

For cosmetic purposes, treatment of bronchitis, diseases of the nervous system, increasing libido, essential oil is used. It is used for massage, aromatherapy. The range of its application extends to the field of cosmetology. The oil is added to cosmetics, since it has anti-aging properties, it easily copes with the elimination of fine wrinkles. The perfume industry has long incorporated the honeyed notes of primrose into perfumes. It perfectly complements floral scents. But annoying mosquitoes and cockroaches do not tolerate fragrant inflorescences. The dried petals will also help expel moths from the wardrobe.

Important! Experts recommend that gardeners with sensitive skin use rubber gloves to protect their hands. The juice of the bulbs can cause contact dermatitis.

Features of growing a plant

When growing a Mediterranean guest, it is important to provide him with a large area. The curtain spreads rather quickly. Neighbors in the flowerbed are selected taking into account the fact that you will be transplanting only after a few years, it is better to plant together with other perennials.

Among the unique properties of the viper onion, it is worth noting the love of light, but the ability to grow in the shade. This feature is associated with the early flowering period. Bright heads will appear before the leaves bloom on the trees shading the garden.

The ephemeroid is planted in small groups. A single flower will not give the desired effect. Like other representatives of bulbous cultures, mouse hyacinth is used for early forcing.Even when there is snow outside the window, the house can be filled with the honey scent of a flower.

Perennial culture of muscari: species, varieties

Muscari is a genus of 44 species of bulbous perennials. The following varieties are most often found in culture:

• Armenian (Colchian);
• Osh (Tubergena);
• changeable;
• aciniform;
• crested;
• multi-flowered;
• broadleaf;
• large-fruited;
• pale;
• strange;
• racemose;
• pretty.

Some varieties growing in the Caucasus have high decorative qualities and are only being introduced into culture. These include European species, which are not widespread on the territory of Russia due to their weak winter hardiness. Dense-flowered, Azerbaijani, musky, blue, white-green varieties, as well as muscari Shovitsa, Geldreikh, neglected, are considered promising.

Know! Ornamental varieties planted by humans in the wild go through the naturalization process quickly.

Spring in the southwest Caucasus and northwest Turkey gives locals the opportunity to admire the sky-blue primroses. By the beginning of May, multi-flowered flower brushes, similar to blue balls, can be seen in various parts of the natural landscape. Each flower looks like a tiny barrel 0.5 cm long. The place where the petals pass into the limb is indicated by a constriction. The edge of the flower is serrated, white. At the top of the 20 cm long inflorescence, there are several lighter buds that serve to attract insects. They do not give seeds. Three-chambered capsules are tied only with fertile flowers. Flowering lasts 3 weeks.

The underground part is represented by an elongated onion up to 3 cm long and 2–2.5 cm in diameter. The leaf rosette consists of 3–7 plates tapering at the top. The height of the bush is 15-20 cm, the width of the lower part of the leaf is 5-8 mm. For the winter, the deciduous mass dies off, the bulbs have a high threshold of winter hardiness, they do not need shelter.

It is interesting! The breeders liked the high decorativeness and frost resistance, therefore, more than 170 varieties were bred on the basis of the species.

Gardeners prefer the Dutch Blue Spike cultivar. Its lush inflorescences consist of a large number of buds. This became possible thanks to the branched pedicels, each of which bears 2-3 flowers. In total, the erect peduncle bears up to 170 blue corollas. The bulbs of this variety are somewhat larger, reaching a diameter of 3.5-4 cm, but the number of children does not exceed 3 pieces. And there are no seeds on the peduncle, since all the buds are sterile. Blue Spike blooms 2 weeks later than Armenian, pleases the eye for 20 days. The leaf rosette reaches 20 cm in height, the peduncle is 5 cm higher. The advantages of the variety include unpretentiousness, high decorative qualities, winter hardiness, the ability to use for cutting.

The following varieties are no less popular:

1. Fantasy Creation with double buds that turn from greenish to bright blue.
2. Safe with white-bordered dark blue flowers in a pyramidal inflorescence.
3. Peppermint with pale blue petals that have white teeth along the edge. Differs in very long flowering and the ability to grow rapidly.
4. The artist is a cultivar up to 15 cm high. Its inflorescences turn from green to blue with a white border, emitting an incredible fragrance.
5. Christmas Pearl is a hybrid with violet-blue "barrels". Used for distillation, has international awards.
6. Superstar has an elongated inflorescence, consisting of many white-bordered deep blue buds.
7. Cambridge - a low bush blooms rather late, has azure corollas.
8. Dark Eyes forms dense heads with blue bells. A white border runs along the edge of the rim. The bush reaches a height of 30 cm, blooms for 3-4 weeks.

Advice! In addition to being placed in the garden, bright heads can decorate a balcony or windowsill.For these purposes, landing in containers, early distillation is used.

The Tubergen variety got its name from the surname of the botanist who brought it from Iran to Europe. The onions are small, up to 2 cm long, about 10 mm in diameter. The rosette consists of 2-3 leaves 15 cm long and 5 mm wide. The flowering stem reaches a height of 25 cm, forms a dense blue inflorescence. The crown corollas are lighter. The teeth of the petal are white. The period of decorativeness falls in the middle of spring, by winter the deciduous mass withers. Excess moisture is destructive for a perennial.

The Magic variety is very popular. The bulbs of this cultivar produce a large number of flowering stems. The Ocean variety has blue petals with a white crown on the inflorescence. White Magic has rounded snow-white heads; Blue Magic has a flower brush that smoothly changes color from the crown. Above are snow-white corollas, then light blue and sky blue.

A changeable viper onion in the wild has settled on the grassy slopes of the Mediterranean. It has large onions 3 cm long and 25 mm in diameter. Deciduous cover 30-40 cm long forms a basal rosette of 5-6 narrow plates. The flowers are oblong, blue-violet with white teeth. The edges of the bud are bent inward. Decorative for 3 weeks in mid-spring. Used for landscaping in Central Russia, Uzbekistan.

Know! In addition to being unpretentious, most species have good winter hardiness.

The grape-like variety grows in the mountainous areas of Europe, where it has been widely used for decorating gardens for more than four hundred years. The small, narrow heads are composed of small blue-violet barrels with white teeth. The height of the bush is 10-12 cm, the leaves are narrow. Blooms in early May, decorative up to 3 weeks. The garden form Alba has snow-white petals, the Carneum has a light pink corolla.

The crested look looks very unusual. Its blue-purple tufted hands are sure to grab everyone's attention. The number of buds in a brush reaches hundreds. It grows in meadows and edges of Europe, North Africa, southwest Asia. It often turns into a weed.

Corollas of fertile flowers are brownish with a lighter edge. The form of the perianth is jugular. The arrow appears in early summer, gradually expanding, reaching a height of 50-70 cm. Leaves 3-4, but when cultivated in a fertile substrate, the number increases. It also becomes possible to see 2 inflorescences. Dense bulbs rarely produce offspring, but abundant fruiting allows you to grow a crop from seed.

On a note! Hybrid "Plumozum" has a greater number of sterile buds, stands out with a lilac color of the tuft. It looks great surrounded by decorative deciduous crops with a bluish tint of the plates.

The multi-flowered species is widely distributed in the mountainous meadows of the Transcaucasus, in Turkey. But it is used for landscaping even in the Moscow region. A bright blue head appears among the long foliage in mid-spring. The length of the leaf blades is 20-25 cm, the flower-bearing stems are only 10-15 cm tall. A pale blue edging runs along the edge of the tubular rims.

The broadleaf variety has gained incredible popularity due to its external resemblance to hyacinths. Sheet width up to 25 mm. Broad lanceolate plates 15 cm long "embrace" a deep purple peduncle. Arrow height 22-26 cm, cylindrical shape. Each inflorescence consists of 70-100 elongated buds. The homeland of this reduced copy of hyacinth is Asia Minor, so the exotic has a thermophilic character and is suitable for cultivation in the South of Russia. Decorative for 20-30 days from mid-spring. In cool climates, it is used for forcing.

Another thermophilic species is large-fruited. In Turkey and Greece, it blooms in May. A brown edging runs along the edge of the yellow petals. The height of the bush is 20-23 cm.Recommended as a pot culture, winters indoors.

It is interesting! The combination of bright yellow open buds and closed purple buds attracts the attention of flower growers. The view is promising for the southern regions.

Quite a rare species - pale. Grows in the mountainous areas of the Caucasus. A very delicate and beautiful ephemeroid 12-17 cm high. The arrow appears by the end of May, has a pale blue color with a white skirt along the edge. The brush contains up to 40 bell flowers. Flowering is short, only 10-12 days. The covering scales of the bulb are cast in a pinkish tint. It reproduces poorly vegetatively and generatively. It has a white-flowered form, as well as White Rose Beauty varieties with a two-color white-pink corolla and a pale blue Blue Sky variety.

The strange variety is very attractive. Her homeland is Transcaucasia, where the decorative period falls at the end of April. Dark purple heads 2 cm long with elongated flowers delight the eye for 3-4 weeks. The height of the perennial is 10-12 cm.

The cystiform ephemeroid is widespread in Europe, the Caucasus, the Crimea and the Mediterranean. It prefers to grow on the slopes of warm meadows, among thickets of bushes. The rosette consists of 2-6 leaf blades 10-12 cm long. The flower-bearing stem with dark blue oblong flowers reaches the same height. Decorative 20-30 days, flowering period falls in May. It has been used for landscaping for almost 450 years, and with dignity it endures severe winters.

Know! The view of Sosnovsky attracts with large barrel-shaped flowers with a white skirt. The petals are dark blue. The culture outwardly resembles the Armenian viper onion, but prefers to grow on a rocky substrate.

The homeland of muscari pulchellum (pretty) is the Mediterranean. Bright blue heads appear in winter. The inflorescence is small, but very dense. Exot is notable for its short stature, reaching a height of 8-12 cm.

Muscari landing

In the wild, the viper onion grows well without human intervention, annually illuminating the forest glades with blue clouds. But varietal varieties still require little attention from the gardener. First of all, you need to find a place for the flower carpet and plant it correctly.

When to plant

The culture is unpretentious, but it will take some time to take root. This process works best in cool weather with constant moisture. Therefore, planting work is traditionally carried out in the fall until mid-October. Spring planting of onions is also possible. It is carried out very early, as soon as the snow cover melts and the ground warms up to 5⁰C.

In the fall, planting is much more convenient, since the bulk of the work on the garden plot has already been completed. Still such terms are associated with the reproduction of perennials. Daughter bulbs ripen by autumn, so planting material is easy to obtain. When buying bulbs, remember that they must match the dimensions described above.

Remember! There should be no areas of decay, flabbiness, traces of mold and injuries on the planting material.

For spring planting, grown seedlings are often used. It is sold in nurseries or garden centers. It is better to plant such material in late April or early May. Examine the seedlings carefully for diseases. A sign that should alert you is the presence of yellow strokes on the foliage. From the pot, the transplant is carried out by the transshipment method.

Seat selection

When choosing a place, it is better to give preference to areas protected from strong winds. A slight bias is encouraged. Ephemeroid develops well in direct sunlight, but slight shading will not harm it. But stagnant water can lead to decay of the bulbs, so planting in the lowlands is contraindicated for primrose. Try to identify the snake bow to other perennials, but leave room for it to grow a curtain. In mass, mouse hyacinths look more spectacular.

Soil for muscari

The condition of the soil is only partly important for the proper development of the Mediterranean guest. It is preferable to plant on loose fertile substrates with a slightly acidic environment. The hydrogen index is 5.7-6.5. The more fertile the soil, the larger the bulbs will form, and the more magnificent the flowering will be. Loams flavored with humus are ideal.

Attention! Clay and peat substrates are not suitable for normal development - the former provoke stagnation of moisture and contribute to the deterioration of the underground part of the plant, and from the latter, moisture evaporates too quickly.

If the soil does not meet the requirements, replace it to a depth of 15-20 cm. To prepare the site, add humus or mature compost. Take 5 kg of fertilizer for each square meter of the flower bed.

Preparation of planting material

Before planting, the bulbs are subject to rejection and mandatory disinfection. Select only firm, healthy specimens. A weak solution of potassium permanganate is used for etching. Planting material is kept for 30-60 minutes. You can soak the onions in a solution of Karbofos or Fitosporin, prepared according to the instructions. Disinfection will destroy the spores of fungal pathogens.

How to plant muscari correctly

A small planting instruction will help you organize the process correctly:

1. Dig up the area to the depth of a shovel bayonet a few days before the planned event. For digging, add mature compost or humus in the amount of 5 kg per square meter of area.
2. Prepare grooves or holes, the depth depends on the size of the onions. Large material is planted to a depth of 5-8 cm, small 3 cm.
3. Planting density depends on the desired result. Usually, mouse hyacinth is planted in groups of 20-30 individuals, but a compacted planting of up to 200 individuals per square meter is also possible.
4. Water the flower bed the day before the event. Pour a 1–2 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the hole to ensure sufficient drainage.
5. Plant the culture in 4-8 cm increments, depending on the size of the planting material.
6. Fill the grooves with the substrate, compact a little.
7. Pour plenty of warm water over the crop.

Remember! Excessive burying of the bulbs will complicate the germination process, and too shallow depth will lead to freezing. It is optimal if there is 2 cm of soil above the onion.

Muscari care

Even a beginner can handle caring for a Mediterranean guest. The culture is undemanding and capable of growing without human intervention, but you can only get a harmonious flower bed with lush heads with some effort.

Watering

At the beginning of the vegetation cycle, exotics require frequent abundant watering, excluding stagnant water. Irrigation is especially important in the south, where spring is rapid and the soil dries out quickly. In the Middle Lane, it is important to be guided by the weather conditions. The prolonged spring period with long retention of moisture in the soil contributes to the best crop growth. By the time the flowering stems wilt, watering is gradually reduced. When the bush falls into a dormant period, excessive moisture threatens with decay, therefore it is not accepted to water the ephemeroid after flowering.

Top dressing and fertilizers

You can feed the jacket in spring or autumn if you are going to separate the kids. As a fertilizer, organic matter is used, since mineral complexes are not particularly needed for the primrose. Liquid mineral dressings are used only for cultivation in containers and for distillation. Then top dressing is applied every 2 weeks, because the soil in an enclosed space is quickly depleted. In the spring, humus is poured under the bushes, and in the fall, fertilizer is applied for digging.

Know! If you feed the curtain with organic fertilizers annually, it can grow in one place for 7-10 years, after which it will require rejuvenation.

Muscari when and how to propagate

The ephemeroid reproduces vegetatively with the help of the separation of children, as well as by the seed method.Wild individuals often reproduce by self-sowing, but many hybrids do not form seeds, therefore vegetative propagation is preferable.

Baby onions will be trimmed in September. For this, the curtain is dug up and the material is sorted. Large specimens are immediately planted in a permanent place, in spring they will bloom. Children are planted on a training bed in a little shade. They are grown for 1-2 years, planting in 2-3 cm increments. The separation of children allows you to rejuvenate the curtain, it is carried out every 3-5 years.

Seed propagation is used extremely rarely, since seedlings will develop for 3-4 years to an adult state. They will also require special attention from the gardener. Seeds are sown before winter so that they undergo natural stratification. The filling is carried out to a depth of 10-15 mm. The filamentous seedlings will appear in the spring. They are carefully monitored, removing weeds, preventing stagnation or moisture deficit, and crust formation. You can plant the shoots that have appeared as a result of self-seeding, but usually the wilted flower stalks are removed.

Know! The scientific name for generative reproduction of wild-growing relatives is myrmecochory. The seeds have fat-containing glands that attract ants. Insects carry seeds away from the place of growth.

The specifics of planting and caring for muscari in Siberia

The Siberian region has an inhospitable climate with cold early winters. The autumn landing of the Mediterranean guest is carried out towards the end of the summer. In order for the roots to form, the substrate temperature should not drop below 14-15⁰C. If planted in August, the culture will have time to take root before severe frosts. It is recommended to place the planting material in a cool room for 3-4 days. This measure promotes rapid rooting.

You should not neglect the application of fertilizers, because the growing season in the zone of risky farming has been reduced. Organic feeding will help the bulb build up the strength for a successful wintering. Frequent irrigation is not required, since in spring in Siberia the land remains wet for a long time. With the arrival of winter, young individuals must mulch with humus to avoid freezing.

Advice! Container cultivation of viper onions is also possible, then the pots are brought into the room for the winter. Heat-loving individuals are grown in this way, or the bulbs are removed annually for winter storage at home.

Flowering muscari

Ephemeroid remains decorative for 3-4 weeks. During this period, he will not need special care. By the end of flowering, reduce watering, regularly loosen the topsoil, being careful not to damage the underground part. Be sure to pull out the weeds. What to do with faded arrows is up to you. If you leave them, the likelihood of self-seeding will increase, decorative qualities will suffer. If it is necessary to collect seeds, leave 1-2 heads, wrapping them with gauze. If you notice a deterioration in the decorative qualities of the curtain, plant the children in the fall.

Flower care after flowering

When the decorative period comes to an end, remove the wilted heads, but do not touch the foliage. Thanks to the green leaves, the underground part will be able to accumulate enough nutrients for the production of children and wintering. You can help exotic by introducing a liquid top dressing based on potassium and phosphorus. When the deciduous mass withers, the need for watering will disappear. Remove dry leaves. Rejuvenate the jacket if necessary.

Preparing for winter

Bulbous perennial is winter-hardy, even tolerates severe winters without shelter. Remove plant debris from the site before wintering. Mulch the young growth with peat.

The viper onion is often planted with other bulbous relatives. The underground part of these plants, according to rodents, is a real delicacy. To protect the flower bed from damage by voles, do not use straw as mulch and be sure to lay spruce branches over the garden bed. The use of traps and sprinkling of hot pepper on the soil will not hurt either.

Advice! If you choose the imperial hazel grouse as a neighbor to the mouse hyacinth, the mice will forget the way to the flower bed. In addition, the colors of these exotic plants are in perfect harmony.

Do you need to dig up the bulbs every year

Annual digging of onions is not needed for a winter-hardy perennial. If you are worried about whether heat-loving species overwinter, it is better to dig up the planting material and store it at home. But containerized cultivation will make it easier to cultivate exotic plants. With this growing method, it is enough to simply bring the pot into a cool room.

How to store bulbs correctly

To keep planting material indoors, use the following rules:

• remove the onions only after the deciduous mass has wilted;
• before storing, be sure to dry the bulbs under a canopy;
• store material in boxes with wet sand or peat;
• a weekly inspection will protect from damage, be sure to throw out the onions that have rotted, become soft;
• maintain a humidity level of 70%, a temperature background of 15-17⁰C.

But it is better to completely abandon the extraction of the onions from the soil.

How to transplant a flower correctly

The primrose transplant has two goals - reproduction, rejuvenation of the curtain. The procedure is carried out 5-7 years after planting, but the timing varies depending on the condition of the flower bed. In case of loss of decorative appearance or excessive growth, exotics can be planted earlier, for example, after 3-4 years. If the Mediterranean guest feels well, the curtain can be left alone until 10 years old.

Plants dig in, remove the bulbs from the ground. After sorting, they are seated in a new place in accordance with the requirements described above.

Remember! Be sure to disinfect the bulbs before planting in a new location.

Nuances of planting muscari in open ground in autumn

Regardless of the season, planting operations are carried out according to the same scheme. Don't forget about the following rules:

• pickle the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide;
• lay out sandy or pebble drainage on the bottom of the holes;
• a layer of soil from the crown of the onion to the soil surface of at least 2 cm;
• planting is carried out in groups in sunny areas with a weakly acidic environment;
• don't forget to apply organic fertilizers.

If a broad-leaved species or Tubergen has become your chosen one, do not neglect mulching the root collar.

Muscari armeniacum (Armenian) planting and care in the open field photo

Muscari armeniacum is a frequent visitor to the flower beds of Russians. Its cultivation has no peculiarities and is carried out in accordance with the recommendations described in the article. But it is worth knowing that there is another common method of growing mouse hyacinth. It consists in planting under a layer of lawn. Upon awakening, the stems will hatch through the turf layer to form a luxurious floral carpet.

The process is as follows. A section of sod is cut out on the selected part of the lawn. The depth of removal of the sod layer is 7-8 cm. The piece is carefully laid aside. A few more centimeters of earth are removed from the hole, thoroughly mixed with compost. Bulbs are planted in the prepared substrate. The density depends on the design idea. The surface is covered with a removed piece of lawn, watered abundantly.

Attention! With this method of cultivation, it is impossible to cut the grass until the rosettes of the mouse hyacinth wither.

Muscari pests and diseases

Pests bypass the Mediterranean guest, and of the diseases, only plant viruses are dangerous - yellow dwarf onions, cucumber mosaics. Growth retardation, shortening of flowering stems, too narrow leaf blades, the presence of streaks or a mosaic pattern on the foliage are dangerous signs of infection. There is no salvation from the disease, so you have to remove the diseased specimen and burn it away from the site. To prevent infection will help dressing, destruction of aphids, buying individuals only in the nursery.

If aphids have settled near the flower, do not hesitate to destroy it. Treat your neighbors in the flower bed with soapy water or use insecticides.

It is extremely rare for spider mites to settle on the leaves. They are detected by the presence of yellow specks on foliage and threads of silvery spider webs. The colony is destroyed by infusion of garlic, Fitoverm, Aktara.

Muscari in landscape design, combination with other plants

Blue, lilac, white and pink primrose caps are widely used in garden design. Experts recommend planting a Mediterranean guest on alpine slides, lawns, flower beds, consisting of several tiers. Rocky rockery, a narrow edging of a curb, tinning the near-trunk circle of fruit trees - landscape designers have found such a use for the flower.

Advice! Pots or flowerpots with mouse hyacinths will decorate the balcony, window sill, terrace. Neighborhood with forget-me-nots, pansies or daisies will complement the composition.

From neighbors, peonies, hyacinths, hazel grouses, daffodils are suitable for viper onions. They are planted in the background. In the immediate vicinity, you can plant woodlands, anemone, crocuses, dwarf tulips, primrose.

How to plant a flower for a beautiful combination in the garden

To get harmonious compositions, it is important to choose the right neighbors for the exotic. They are selected taking into account the nature of the vegetation of the Mediterranean guest. Since the ephemeroid does not retain decorativeness for long, its unsightly glades are masked by planting later flowers nearby - subulate phlox, hosts, yaskolka, ground cover. By the time of their active growth, the perennial tops will already wither.

European landscape designers recommend a solid carpet composition that combines multi-colored varieties. In the parks, you can find mouse hyacinths along the paths. Glades under deciduous trees look harmoniously. Such a neighborhood will benefit fruit crops, because during flowering, the Mediterranean guest attracts many pollinators.

Beautiful compositions are obtained by planting a snake bow on an alpine hill or rockery, you can sprinkle the flower bed with decorative stones.

Conclusion

It is very simple to grow muscari outdoors, the main thing is to follow the planting and care rules described in the article. This fragrant bright flower will delight you for a long time with a presentable appearance, and every year herald the arrival of spring.

Video tips: how to plant and care for muscari in autumn