Cherry planting in the fall and care in the open field

Planting cherries, like any other fruit tree, has its own characteristics.

It can be held both in spring and autumn.therefore every gardener should be aware of the differences between these types of work.

When to plant cherries - in spring or autumn?

For garden plots located in the south of Russia or in the Central region, the most preferable would be the autumn planting.

Its dates vary from mid-September to the end of October.

These terms are due to the fact that during this period, the trees are in a dormant stage, and all their forces will be directed to rooting in a new place, and not to flowering and foliage formation.

If the purchased seedling was not transplanted into open ground until the end of October, then for the winter period it is buried in the ground and planted in the spring.

Spring planting is optimal for Siberia and other regions with a harsh and cold climate, usually this procedure is carried out from the end of April to the beginning of May.

Why it is advised to plant in the fall: benefits

In the autumn many seedling sellers offer discounts on their products. In addition, for those who have not yet decided on the choice of the variety, in the fall you can see the expected result and taste the fruits of various varieties.

As known, heavy rainfall in autumn, therefore, the gardener gets rid of the need to constantly water the planted tree and monitor the level of soil moisture.

Saplings planted in autumn will have time to grow young roots during the winter... Because of this, they will begin to grow much faster than trees planted in spring.

The autumn planting of cherries has more advantages than the spring planting.

In the southern regions autumn planting has many more advantages than spring planting... Because the risk of a sudden onset of heat is eliminated.

Young trees may not be prepared for the winter cold. Therefore, they can die due to too low temperatures, gusty winds or snowfalls.

It often happens that the tree survives after the winter season, but broken off or frozen branches appear. Also, a danger can be posed by rodents that gnaw the bark of a tree trunk.

Simple rules for proper cultivation

In northern regions, it is not recommended to use autumn planting.because it is more likely that young trees will not be able to survive the harsh winter climate and will simply die.

Therefore, the seedlings bought in the fall can be dug into the ground before the onset of spring. For such a procedure, you need to dig a shallow hole into which the roots of the tree will fall at an angle of 45 degrees.

When purchasing several seedlings at once, they are tied together.When digging them into the ground, you need to make sure that the top is directed to the south side.

With the onset of cold weather, the tree must be protected from their negative influence. The branches are covered with earth and snow, they will be reliable protection against freezing. Also, to avoid sunburn, cherries are covered with plywood.

How to plant a tree

In order for the sweet cherry to develop well after the autumn planting and give a rich harvest, all preparation rules must be followed, both the soil and the seedling itself.

Preparation of seedlings

Sweet cherry differs from other fruit crops in that if you grow a seedling from a seed, it will not inherit the characteristics of the parent tree. The quality and quantity of the crop will be either more or less.

Therefore, to obtain the desired result it is recommended to buy an already grown seedling in a garden nursery... In order for the purchase to be successful, you need to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. On the trunk of the tree, the trunk of the scion should be clearly visible. It is these seedlings that will have all the characteristics of the acquired variety.
2. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the presence of a main guide, if it is absent, then the tree will branch strongly and grow poorly, and there will also be a risk of breaking the crown into several parts after abundant fruiting. If the conductor is broken, then in the future it may have competitors, such rivalry will adversely affect the state of the cherries.
3. The roots of the seedling must be well developed and at least 15 centimeters long. You also need to pay attention to the condition of the root system, the absence of mechanical damage and excessive dryness indicates the quality of the seedling, and the proper care for it. The place of the cut should be colored in a light, creamy shade.
4. Best of all, trees at the age of 1-2 years take root in a new place.

For planting cherries, it is recommended to buy an already grown seedling in a garden nursery

Seedling roots with an open root system, during transportation, it is wrapped in a wet cloth, and then in an oilcloth.

Before planting, the roots of the seedling are inspected again and eliminate all emerging shortcomings:

• all soaked ends are cut off;
• you also need to remove all those roots that do not fit in the dug hole. Roots that are too long can freeze during the winter;
• before planting, the root system is placed in water for 2 hours so that it is moistened; in the presence of dry roots, this procedure is increased to 10 hours.

If foliage is present on the purchased seedling, it must be removed immediately.so that it does not dehydrate him.

Site selection and preparation

A place for planting and growing a seedling choose based on the following preferences for cherries:

1. Cherry grows best in loam or sandy loam soils, because they can provide good water and air permeability. Also, fertilizers applied to such land will go to the root system much faster and ensure its growth.
2. The optimal level of groundwater occurrence is 1.5 meters, if it rises higher, that is, there is a risk of moisture stagnation and subsequently rotting of the root system. But this problem can be solved by digging a drainage ditch in which all excess moisture will collect.
3. Cherry also loves sunny and lighted areas, it is best to plant it on the south or southwest side of the garden.

Cherry grows best in loam or sandy loam soils, loves sunny and lighted areas

2-3 weeks before preparing the planting pit you need to carefully dig up the entire area on which you plan to plant cherries and apply the following fertilizers for digging:

• 10 kilograms of manure or compost is applied per square meter;
• 180 grams of superphosphate will be consumed on the same area;
• 100 grams of potash fertilizers;
• acidic soils must first be limed with lime or dolomite flour.For sandy loam soil, 400-500 grams of the composition are used per square meter, and for loamy ones, 600-700 grams.

Lime should not be applied simultaneously with mineral fertilizers, because they can react and not bring the desired result.

If the site has a sandy type of soil, then a few years before planting cherries, it is mixed with clay, and vice versa. At the same time, throughout the entire time before planting, the land must be thoroughly fertilized in order to make it more fertile.

2-3 weeks before planting cherries, dig a planting hole, the depth of which will be equal to 60-80 centimeters, and the width can range from 60 to 100 centimeters.

When digging a hole, you need to separate two layers of soil: fertile (top) folded to one side, and infertile to the other.

After the pit is ready, a stake is driven into its bottom, which will serve as a support for the future tree. The topsoil is then mixed with the following fertilizers:

• 2-3 buckets of humus or non-sour peat;
• 200 grams of superphosphate;
• 60 grams of sulfuric potassium;
• 500 grams of ash.

Then the resulting mixture is poured into the bottom of the pit in the form of a mound and carefully tamped, then sprinkle everything with infertile soil.

When preparing the pit, nitrogen fertilizers must not be applied.because they can damage the root system of the seedling.

Landing in open ground

Experienced gardeners recommend when planting cherries adhere to the following technology:

1. The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root collar is 3-5 centimeters above ground level and tied to a support stake.
2. The root system must be carefully straightened and spread over the surface of the mound.
3. Then the tree is sprinkled with the lower layer of soil, gradually shaking it, thereby filling the voids between the roots.
4. After the seedling is half buried, 1 bucket of water is poured into the hole, then the process is continued.
5. At the next stage, a hole is dug around the trunk with a depth of 5 centimeters, and the earth is laid out from it in the form of a roller. This design will help the moisture to be evenly distributed and settle to the roots of the tree.
6. The last step is to compact the soil, water abundantly and mulch.

The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root collar is 3-5 centimeters above ground level, tied to a support stake

Water and natural processes can begin to stimulate soil subsidence around the trunk and the formation of a hole, which will need to be level with the rest of the soil.

Cherry planting and initial pruning. Tips for buying cherries:

Care in the first year after planting

The main danger for a tree planted in autumn is frost and too low temperatures... Therefore, cherries need to be well looked after and carefully prepared for climate change:

1. The barrel should be wrapped in burlap. Since winters can run at fairly high temperatures, care must be taken to ensure that the tree is not overturned.
2. The fallen snow is added to the lower part of the trunk, thereby protecting it from frost and gusty winds.
3. For best performance, spruce branches can be tied over the burlap.
4. To protect the tree from rodent attacks in winter, various pesticides are scattered around it.

After planting, you need to carefully prepare the cherries for winter, the trunk should be wrapped in burlap

Average, the tree is watered once a month, but in severe drought, this procedure is repeated every week. It is best to water the cherries through the hole, which, along with the growth of the tree, is gradually expanded to a diameter equal to 2 meters.

In the first 3 years of life, the tree will have enough fertilizer applied during planting. The only exceptions would be nitrogen fertilizers applied in early spring in the second year after planting.

This feeding will well stimulate the growth of cherries. Then the tree can be fed with stubborn humus and mineral fertilizers.

Because the birds love to feast on cherries, it is very important to protect the young tree from their attacks. To do this, you can tie old disks, cans, tinsel or rain to the branches.

Also, all these items can be attached to the scarecrow. Another way is to stretch the meshes over the tree.

How to transplant cherries

There are often situations where it is necessary to transplant already growing cherries to a new place... If you strictly follow the following scheme, then the autumn transplant will be as painless as possible for the tree:

1. It is best to replant healthy trees at the age of 5-6 years.
2. Preparation for this procedure must be carried out in advance. In early spring or late autumn, a groove is dug around the trunk of 40-50 centimeters in depth and 20-30 in width.
3. Cherry roots are carefully chopped and cleaned, then coated with garden var.
4. At the next stage, the groove is filled with peat or humus.
5. Throughout the summer, the tree needs to be watered abundantly so that new surface roots can develop.
6. The transplant is performed immediately after the leaf fall.
7. In this case, the planting hole should be 1.5 times larger than the root system of the sweet cherry.

If necessary, it is better to replant healthy cherry trees at the age of 5-6 years

When transplanting, the orientation relative to the cardinal points must be maintained. Otherwise, sunburn or bark injuries may appear on the tree.

Autumn planting would be ideal for southern and central regions. The correct procedure can ensure the active growth of the tree as early as next spring.

Every third summer resident has a cherry on his plot. But the planting of cherries, its closest relative, is much less popular, although many people like its juicy and sweet berries. The reason for this is the well-established opinion about the exceptional thermophilicity of culture. For a long time it was true: trees bore generously only in the southern gardens.

Summer residents, whose plots are located in the middle lane, do not dare to grow cherries, considering this occupation unpromising due to the high risk of freezing. But not all varieties of culture are subject to it. Its zoned varieties are successfully cultivated in the cold climate of the Leningrad region, in the Urals and even in the gardens of Siberia.

Site requirements

Cherry loves the sun and does not tolerate drafts. It is better to place her seedlings in the area that is as illuminated as possible and at the same time not blown by cold winds. The tree will be comfortable at the fence or at the southern walls of buildings. But tall varieties of cherries have a spreading crown, so it is important to leave them enough free space for development. A seedling hole is dug, stepping back from the structure at least 3-4 m.

Trees grow best on small (up to 0.5 m in height) hills, which can be arranged artificially, and in areas slightly inclined towards the south, southwest or southeast.

Here they do not lack light and warmth. You should not plant cherries in lowlands and in those places where water stagnates for a long time in spring. In such conditions, trees quickly die. The roots of the sweet cherry are deep (up to 2 m long), and some of them are located vertically in the soil, so it does not tolerate the close proximity of groundwater.

The culture grows well and bears fruit in loose soil. Light and fertile sandy loam or loamy soils are ideal for her. They should be sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged. On peat bogs, in heavy clay soil, on rapidly drying sand with a scarce supply of nutrients, planting cherries will not be crowned with success.

Landing time and scheme

The timing of placing trees on the site depends on the climate of the area. In the southern regions, autumn planting is more often practiced, carrying it out several weeks before the soil freezes. In Siberia and the Urals, it is better to postpone the procedure until spring. If the seedling does not have time to take root, severe frosts will destroy it.

Sweet cherry is a cross-pollinated crop.It will bear fruit abundantly only if there are neighbors. It is recommended to plant 2-3 trees on the site, representing different varieties of culture. You can do with one, but only if you place a couple of cherries with the same flowering time next to the cherry. This guide also applies to partially self-fertile crop varieties.

4-5 m of free space is left between adjacent trees. Saving space is not the best option here. When planted closer, trees will shade each other. Caring for them will also be complicated. If the cherry is columnar, the distance between the plants is reduced to 1 m.When planting such trees in rows, the interval between them should be made equal to 2-3 m.

Pit preparation

When planting cherries in the fall, the site is prepared 2-3 weeks before the procedure. The soil is dug deeply and enriched with fertilizers:

• compost (10 kg);
• superphosphate (180 g);
• potassium nitrate (100 g).

These dosages are calculated for 1 m² of the area of ​​the site. You can add a special complex preparation intended for cherries and sweet cherries to the soil. Soil with an acidic reaction is limed. It is recommended to do this in advance - 7-10 days before the introduction of nutrient formulations. Clay or sandy soil for growing cherries is prepared for several years. The first is dug up, scattering sand over the surface of the site, clay is added to the second. In the next 3-4 years, fertilizers are applied to the soil. This can be done in spring or autumn.

The planting hole is dug 2 weeks before the tree is placed in it. It should be deep (60-80 cm) and wide (1 m). A support is installed in the center. Correctly, if it rises above the soil surface by 30-50 cm.Fertile soil is poured onto the bottom of the pit, adding the following components to it:

• rotted compost;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate;
• wood ash.

The thoroughly mixed substrate should form a small hill around the support.

Advice

The introduction of nitrogen-containing compounds and lime into the planting pit is fraught with burns for the roots of the seedling, at this stage it is better to do without them.

Having slightly tamped the soil mixture, sprinkle it with infertile soil on top. Having leveled it well, they pour a couple of buckets of water into the pit, after which they forget about it for 2 weeks. During this time, the soil will settle.

If cherry planting is carried out in the spring, the site and the pit are prepared in the fall. Humus or compost is added to the soil. It is recommended to do this from October to November, depending on weather conditions. In the spring, when the snow melts and the soil dries out slightly, mineral fertilizers, including nitrogen fertilizers, can be added to the pits. They start placing seedlings in them in a week.

Sapling selection

Best of all, cherry seedlings take root at the age of 1-2 years. In height, the first should reach 70-80 cm, the second - 1 m.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the following signs:

• features of the crop variety (winter hardiness, the presence of immunity to diseases and pests);
• the appearance of a young tree.

A quality seedling must be grafted. This indicates its belonging to varietal plants. Such a tree begins to bear fruit earlier, and its berries will taste better.

It is worth stopping the choice on a seedling that has many branches. It will be easier to give the correct shape to its crown. The tree must have a well-developed and straight conductor. Young cherries grow quickly. If the conductor is weak, the stronger branches will compete with it. The presence of several conductors is highly undesirable: if a lot of berries are tied on a tree, it can break between them, and the cherry will die.

The roots of the seedling are also carefully examined. There should be no dry and damaged areas on them. A viable seedling has a developed, strong root system. If it is open, after purchase it is placed in a damp cloth and wrapped with oilcloth (polyethylene) on top. This will protect the roots from drying out. Leaves from the branches of the seedling are immediately removed to prevent dehydration.

It is better to buy a seedling in the fall.At this time, the assortment of varieties in nurseries is the widest. For the winter, the tree is buried in, and in the spring (in April) they are planted in a permanent place. You can do it right into the mud. You should not delay planting cherries. It is important to carry it out while the buds on the tree have not yet woken up. So it will take root faster. Seedlings growing in containers can be planted in May and even June.

How to plant cherries

Before being placed in the planting pit, the cherry roots are carefully examined again. Sick and injured areas are excised. Shoots that are too long can be shortened if they do not fit into the prepared pit. Then the underground part of the young sweet cherry is dipped in a bucket of water, where it is kept from 2 to 10 hours, depending on the degree of dryness of its roots. They start planting when they swell.

The tree is placed in a hole so that its root collar protrudes from it by 5-7 cm. Carefully spreading its roots over a mound, they are sprinkled with infertile soil taken from the bottom of the depression. This should be done gradually, from time to time, slightly shaking the cherries by the trunk. So near its roots there will be no cavities filled with air.

Having completely filled up the pit, 1 bucket of water is poured into it. When it is absorbed and the soil settles, the trunk circle is well tamped. A hole is made around the tree with a radius of 30 cm, enclosing it from the outside with a shaft of soil. On the inside, a shallow (5 cm) furrow is drawn around it and watered well again. As the soil subsides in the trunk circle, it will have to be poured. The final stage is mulching the surface of the hole. Peat or humus is usually used for it.

If the buds on the tree have not yet begun to bloom, pruning is carried out after planting. 2-3 skeletal branches are left on the cherry, and the rest are removed on the ring. This must be done flush with the trunk so that hemp does not remain. Wounds are covered with garden varnish. Placing a sweet cherry on the site, in which sap flow has already begun, pruning its crown is postponed for the next year.

Top dressing and watering

For summer residents who already have fruit trees in the garden, caring for cherries will seem familiar. It includes the usual activities:

• watering;
• loosening the soil;
• weeding;
• removal of root growth;
• top dressing;
• pruning.

If you plant cherries correctly, the need to reintroduce potassium-phosphorus compounds into the soil will arise only after 3 years. They begin to feed the tree with nitrogen fertilizers earlier, when the second year of their life on the site goes. In dry form, they are brought in in the spring, as soon as it gets warmer. At the end of May, feeding is repeated, but already in liquid form. When the tree is 4 years old, the soil under it is enriched with phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements. Compositions containing them are brought in in the middle of summer.

Closer to autumn, trees are watered with organic fertilizers - mullein or bird droppings dissolved in water. For the last time during the season, cherries are fed before winter - in September-October. They are guided here by the appearance of the trees: if the leaves turned yellow and began to fly around, the time has come to add nutrients. They are buried in the soil during the digging process, going 10 cm deep into the ground.

Carefully monitor the cleanliness of the soil under and between trees. When loosening, you need to process an 8-10 cm layer of soil. Such care is repeated 3-5 times per season. It is advisable to spend it the next day after each watering or rain. It is convenient to use a garden hoe or cultivator for loosening.

During the growing season, cherries need at least 3 waterings:

• before flowering;
• in the middle of summer, especially if it is dry;
• in the fall, simultaneously with the last feeding.

Before the procedure, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the trees, and after it - to mulch. Autumn watering is required. It should be abundant so that the water saturates the soil by 70-80 cm. This will protect the cherries from freezing. Cold-resistant crop varieties do not tolerate drought well. In extreme heat, such cherries often dry out.Having discovered such symptoms, you cannot hesitate, otherwise it will not be possible to save the tree. Regular and abundant watering will help him withstand adverse weather conditions.

Crown formation

Cherry pruning raises the most questions for gardeners. To carry it out correctly and as painlessly as possible for the tree, the guidance of professionals will help. Whatever the goals - sanitary or formative - the pruning pursues, it is better to do it in early spring, while the sap flow has not yet begun. In summer and autumn, you can continue what you started, getting rid of the shoots that thicken the crown and pinching the tops of improperly growing branches. The root shoots are removed during the entire growing season so that they do not draw forces from the tree.

Annual pruning of cherries allows you to:

• increase its yield;
• improve the quality of berries;
• prevent the development of diseases;
• increase the lifespan of the tree.

In the gardens of Siberia, cherries are given the shape of a bush. This makes it easier for the tree to withstand harsh winters. The optimal number of trunks is 3-5. The top of an annual seedling is shortened over 5-6 buds. This pruning stimulates the development of the lower lateral branches. Cherry is prone to tillering by nature. If you do not get rid of the strong shoots that grow above the graft, it will quickly acquire the desired appearance itself.

A young tree is formed during the first 5-6 years. During this time, you need to lay several tiers (usually 3). In the future, pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes. The height of the tree is maintained within 3-3.5 m, and the length of its skeletal branches is at the level of 4 m. Grinding of berries and the formation of ovaries only on the periphery of the crown indicates the need for rejuvenating pruning. It is carried out in late winter and early spring.

Features of autumn care

With the arrival of autumn, you need to take preventive measures against diseases and pests. The fallen leaves are raked up and burned. Trees and the soil under them are sprayed with special preparations, their trunks are whitened to the level of the trunk. It is desirable to process the bases of skeletal branches.

When the trees are completely bare, the last pruning of the season is carried out. To make the cherry easier to endure frost, it is relieved of weak, injured and improperly growing shoots. Annual shoots are cut to ⅓ of the length. Non-skeletal branches are shortened to 30 cm. At this time, it is better to use a saw instead of a secateurs. The sections remaining after it are tightened faster. The procedure must be completed by the end of September. Late pruning is fraught with long-healing wounds that make it difficult for the tree to winter. Saplings are exposed to it in the second year of life on the site. It is dangerous to prune younger trees before winter; it is better to postpone the procedure until spring.

Cherry that has suffered from frost dries up in spring, and its trunk can become covered with cracks, through which infection easily penetrates. To protect the seedlings, they are fenced off with a kind of fence made of stakes and, carefully pulling off the branches, are placed under the covering material.

With a competent approach to choosing a variety, growing cherries in the gardens of the middle lane, the Urals and Siberia will not be difficult for their owners. If you properly care for it, the tree lives on the site for a whole century, early entering the fruiting period. A recent seedling will bear its first berries in 5-6 years. It will take another 4-5 years, and the harvest will be full. Watering, feeding and regular pruning of the tree will allow it not to reduce their volume until the end of its long life.

Large and sweet cherries are a coveted reward for the diligent gardener. The opinion was established that this fruit crop requires special conditions and increased labor costs during cultivation. Is it so? Is it possible to get your own full-fledged cherry crop when planting and nursing in the open field from a fruit seedling of a capricious heat-loving tree?

Practice proves that with the right choice of the variety and the creation of favorable conditions on the site, you can count on a good harvest.... We will analyze in detail the important aspects necessary for the abundant and long-term fruiting of cherries in your garden.

Briefly about the plant system of sweet cherry

The structure of the cherry bush.

In the early years, the central root system of a young seedling is actively formed.

The main taproot develops. In the future, it grows due to powerful branched lateral appendages, which causes horizontal type of root system an adult tree.

The crown has a predominantly conical or ovoid shape, tapering upward. Leaves are oval, pointed to the tip, with small lateral serrations. Flowering occurs with the arrival of warmth in March - May (depending on the region and variety). The bisexual flowers are collected in small white umbrellas. Fruit ripening from May to July.

Cherry fruits are real drupes, pericarp pulp is fleshy and juicy with colorless juice. Fruit up to 2 cm in diameter, their shapes (oval, heart-shaped, spherical) and colors (from white to black) are diverse, depending on the variety.

The choice of planting material

Before buying seedlings in a container, make sure that the roots are firmly in the ground.

Purchase fruit seedlings for planting at the age of 1-2 years. Pay particular attention to:

• The state of the root system. The roots should not be overdried, without visible damage. Only plants with a well-formed branched root system successfully take root in the open field. It is best to purchase seedlings in a soil container or keep the roots in a moist environment during transportation (wrap damp cloth and cellophane).
• Central trunk and side shoots. Distinguish the appearance of first-class seedlings from substandard ones. Good planting stock has a well-defined, single, straight central trunk with many smaller lateral branches. The more side shoots, the easier it is to form a crown in the future.
• Graft. On the trunk of the seedling, there must be a trace of inoculation. This is a guarantee that you have a varietal plant in front of you, which in a short time will yield a harvest of excellent cherries.

Avoid buying too tall seedlings (more than 1 m), such trees take a long time to acclimatize in a new place.

Preparing for landing

Standard planting pit for cherries.

Pre-planting preparation largely depends on what time of the year the young trees will be planted. However, there are general rules that apply at any time of the year. A beginner should know about this and a professional should remember:

• Choosing a place. Heat-loving cherries grow best in sunny areas protected from the winds (south side). Light loamy and sandy loam soils are considered optimal for this type of fruit trees. The root system of the tree does not tolerate stagnant moisture, therefore, marshy areas and dense clay soils, proximity to groundwater should be avoided.
• Seedling preparation. If there are leaves on a young tree, then they are removed. The roots are placed in water or a prepared nutrient solution, such as root, on 2-8 hours... Directly during planting, roots that are damaged during transportation and do not fit into the planting pit are cut off.
• Soil preparation. Site preparatory work begins in a few weeks. The earth is dug up with the applied fertilizers (per 1 m² - 1 bucket of humus, 1 cup of superphosphate, 5 cups of wood ash or 0.5 cups of potash salt).
• Landing pit. Pit (depth 70-80 cm, width 80-100 cm) dug out for 1-1.5 weeks before landing. The fertile soil layer is mixed with several fertilizers (composition as in soil preparation) or complex fertilizer for cherries and cherries. A burnt peg is driven into the hole, which will serve as a support for the seedling, so that it rises above the ground after planting by at least half a meter. From the resulting soil mixture, a slide is made in the center of the pit, crushed, sprinkled with the top layer of soil and left until planting.

If the soil on your garden plot is heavy, then 1-2 buckets of sand are pre-poured into the bottom of the planting pit, if loose sandy, then they are compacted with 1, -1.5 buckets of clay.

For the formation of a nutrient substrate when planting cherries, it is not recommended to use urea, saltpeter and other nitrogen fertilizers, which can damage the development of the root system of the tree (lead to burns).

How and when to plant cherries in the open field

In the southern regions, it is preferable to plant cherry tree seedlings in the fall before the soil freezes, and in the northern regions - in early spring before the start of sap flow (bud swelling).

The distance between cherry seedlings in a row is at least 3 meters.

Landing is done as follows:

1. A young seedling is placed on a hill of prepared substrate, gently spreading the roots, and fixed to a peg so that the neck is 3-4 cm above the edge of the planting pit.
2. Sprinkle a hole on 1/2 soil, shaking the tree so that the earth fills all the voids between the roots, and pour a bucket of water.
3. When the water is absorbed, the hole is completely covered with soil, tamped, watered, and a hole is made around the tree (55-60 cm in diameter) for irrigation.

Bee at work!

It is important to consider that for a high yield, sweet cherries cross-pollination required, which can be given by other cherry or cherry seedlings of different varieties. When planting several trees at a time, keep the distance between plantings at least 4.5–5 meters.

Care after landing

Cherry crown must be formed from the second year after planting.

A young tree needs attention. Such procedures as crown-forming pruning, watering, weeding, mulching, fertilizing, treatment against diseases and pests are very important.

In the first five years pruning trees are carried out in a sparing mode. The main goal is to limit the rapid growth of shoots and give skeletal (crown-forming) branches to gain strength. Such pruning is carried out in early spring before the start of sap flow. Young shoots are shortened by 1/5 the length of the increment, cut out shoots growing inside the crown, remove diseased and damaged branches. Places of cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Watering

Sweet cherry loves moisture, but does not tolerate stagnant water well.

Watering carried out as needed, adjusting it depending on weather conditions. The same applies to weeding and mulching the cultivated soil in the near-stem circle.

The area of ​​the tree trunk circle should be increased by 0.5 m annually.

Top dressing

Humus is a good top dressing for cherries, applied directly to the trunk circle.

Top dressing mineral and organic fertilizers are carried out in the fall. A good effect is given by fertilizing with fertilizers dissolved in water and incorporating green mulch from green manure plants into tree trunks before winter.

The number of dressings per season is determined individually.

Young seedlings 2-3 years old are fed twice: at the beginning of the growing season and in summer (June - July). Mature trees after 4-5 years of growth up to 3-4 times per season with complex fertilizers, ash and slurry (1/6).

Attention, all dressings are applied not at the root, but in the area of ​​the trunk circle.

Prophylaxis

Proper planting and caring for a seedling in the first years of life will help protect an adult tree from many diseases.

Aphids love cherry leaves. Pay attention to this!

Against most of the main pests: cherry weevil, hawthorn, moth, ringed silkworm, aphids - has proven itself well treatment (spraying) with a solution of 10% karbofos (another insecticide) in early spring before the formation of flower buds, as well as cleaning the old bark from the trunk and cultivating the soil in the near-trunk circle.

conclusions

Follow the rules of planting and care, and cherries will thank you with a generous harvest!

In order to grow cherries in a garden plot, you must follow simple rules for planting and caring for a tree.It doesn't matter if you are a venerable gardener or a beginner, if there is a desire and a little bit of hard work, then cherry fruits from your own garden will soon appear on your table.

Foreword

In order for the planting of cherries in the fall to be as successful as possible and the tree to quickly take root in a new place, you should carefully choose a place and know when to carry out the work. Our article will tell you about the planting and further care of a young seedling.

In what soil is it best to plant cherries?

Saplings will grow best if planted in fertile soil with good drainage. It is also advisable to loosen and moisten the soil. A good result can be achieved if young seedlings are planted in loamy or sandy soil, since they perfectly conduct oxygen and water, which are so needed by the roots of the tree. But cherries will not grow in sour peat bogs.

Cherry seedlings

When choosing a place, take into account the location of groundwater - if they are located too close to the surface, there is a high probability that the roots of the seedlings will simply rot. The best option for their location is at a depth of at least 1.5 meters.

But how to grow cherries for those who cannot boast of a type of soil suitable for trees? There are several tricks that will help prepare the soil for planting seedlings. Let's explore the basic guidelines and learn how to care for a plant.

Soil Preparation Tips - A Few Useful Tips

Regardless of the type of soil, preparation for planting cherries should be started in advance. So, 20 days before disembarking, dig up the site thoroughly. When digging, do not forget to apply fertilizers that can make the soil even more fertile. For each square meter of soil, you need to add about 10 kg of manure or compost. When introducing mineral additives, you need to be more modest: no more than 150 g of superphosphate and only 100 g of any potash fertilizers.

Preparing the soil for planting a seedling

But what about those with high soil acidity? In this case, it will have to be "extinguished" using lime. For sandy loam soil, the fertilizer rate per square meter should be no more than 400 g, for loamy soil - about 600 g. At the same time, gardeners recommend not using lime and mineral fertilizers at the same time - these elements can react, as a result of which their effectiveness will be reduced.

Now let's move on to preparing the clay soil. In addition to fertilizers, which we talked about above, mix the soil with the opposite type of soil. For example, you need to add river sand to the clay, and clay to the sand. However, such preparation should be carried out 2 years before planting the seedlings.

Preparing the planting pit - learning the secrets of gardeners

We start preparing the pit 2 weeks before planting the seedlings. The depth of the hole should be at least 0.6 meters, width - up to 1 meter, but it also depends on the size of the root system. It is best to dig a rectangular hole, throwing the top and bottom layers of soil in different directions. We drive a stake into the bottom of the pit, which will serve as a support for the future tree - thanks to this, the seedling will not break under the influence of a strong wind or due to the weight of snow on the branches.

A hole with a stake for planting a cherry tree

The top layer, considered the most fertile, is mixed with fertilizers. At the same time, remember that during planting of a seedling, no fertilizers with nitrogen or lime can be applied to the soil! Such additives will slow down the survival rate of the seedling in a new place. You can use 3 buckets of humus, compost also works well for young cherry seedlings. Among the mineral fertilizers, choose superphosphate (200 g). Additionally, you can add sulfuric potassium (50 g) or ash (no more than 500 g).

Mix all the ingredients and pour into the bottom of the hole in the form of a small hill, then fill in the remaining soil and tamp. Such careful preparation will further simplify the care of the tree.

Several recommendations for choosing the right seedling

If cherries can be planted from a stone and at the same time get a good harvest, then with cherries everything is much more complicated. And the thing is that cherries grown in this way can give completely faded and tasteless harvests, although, of course, there are exceptions. After all, it is by selecting seedlings of different varieties that breeders create new varieties.

Selection of cherry seedlings

Therefore, when choosing seedlings, the most important thing is to pay attention to the trunk, on which the grafting site should be visible. It is such a tree that can be called 100% varietal. Moreover, such trees usually enter the fruiting period much earlier. It will be good if the seedling you have chosen has many shoots, from which a crown will form in the future. Also on the trunk there should be a main branch, from which the rest depart - a conductor. If it is absent, the cherry will develop poorly and branch, and as a result of abundant fruiting, it may even break.

The condition of the conductor must be satisfactory - if it is broken, then after it dissolves, it will have competitors. Therefore, you will have to remove them, leaving the strongest one. It is best to choose sturdy two-year-old seedlings. Examine the roots - they should not be damaged, dried out. When transporting, wrap the entire root system in a damp cloth and wrap in plastic. If there are leaves on the seedling, then it is better to cut them off so that they do not dehydrate the young tree.

Autumn or spring - what planting time to choose and how to carry out the work?

If we are talking about the northern regions, where a predominantly cold climate reigns, it is better to refuse autumn planting - there are great risks that cherry seedlings will freeze in winter. It is better to dig a hole and put young trees in it at an angle of 45 degrees with the top to the south. Sprinkle the roots well with earth. When the frost hits, sprinkle the top of the plants with sand, and then cover the seedlings with snow. So you will protect them from freezing. But if you live in the suburbs, then the autumn planting is considered the best option.

What are the advantages of such a landing? First of all, during this period in the Moscow region and other cities in the markets you can always find the most diverse varieties of this fruit tree. Thanks to this, you can choose the variety you need, depending on its qualities.

Planting cherries

The landing time largely depends on the climate, but usually work is carried out 2 weeks before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, we highly recommend that you check the nearest weather forecast so as not to miss a landing. According to gardeners, it is better not to delay the work - leave the maximum planting date for October 20.

It is also worth taking care of the preparation of the seedlings themselves. Before planting, take a good look at the root system. When you see the soaked ends, cut them off. You should also remove roots that do not fit into the hole you have prepared, especially since roots that are too long may not survive the winter. If you notice that the roots are dry, then place them in water for 12 hours. But even if the root system is in order, gardeners recommend still placing them in water for at least 2 hours to keep them hydrated. Disembarkation rules:

1. Do not lower the seedling too much into the hole - it is important that the root collar of the tree is located above the ground. You can raise the cherry 5 cm, because after the soil subsides, the seedling will fall into place.
2. Spread the roots of the tree well over the mound made in advance.
3. Gradually filling the hole with the bottom layer of soil, shake the young plant a little to fill the voids between the roots.
4. After filling the hole halfway, pour another 10 liters of water into it, and then completely bury it with soil.
5. After you have covered the hole with the seedling, trample the soil and water the soil well again.

Pruning scheme and watering rules - what do novice gardeners need to know?

It does not matter when and where you planted a cherry seedling - in the Moscow region, other regions of the middle lane or in the northern part, the care of a young tree will be the same.First of all, mulch the trunk circle with humus or peat. Such an event will help to better retain moisture in the soil, which is very important during autumn planting, when water may not be enough. Also, the water in the soil will protect the roots from freezing.

Water the plant about once a month, but it also depends on the weather conditions - if the weather is dry, the amount of watering is increased. Only two buckets of water are enough for a young seedling. True, watering cherries in the autumn period is advised to be carried out no later than a week before the onset of frost. After the snow falls, we stop watering.

Care should include feeding the cherries. But here we were lucky - the fertilizers that you applied when preparing the pit for planting seedlings should be enough for about 3 years. Then you can fertilize young trees again. For example, you can use stubborn humus, adding it along with watering once every 3 years.

And to stimulate the active growth of shoots, it is advisable to use mineral fertilizers, which are usually applied in the third year of the cherry's life. After planting a seedling in the fall, we do not carry out pruning in the first year - during this period the tree is still weak, therefore it is better to postpone the work in the spring or summer. In this case, the work must be completed before the start of sap flow.

Mineral fertilizer for fruit trees

But in the future, every autumn, any work on caring for the seedling will include mandatory pruning. Work begins after the foliage has fallen. At the same time, it is advisable to hold events in the middle lane before the beginning of October, in the northern regions - until the end of August. And all because when pruning in a later period, there is a high risk of damage to the tree due to the fact that the resulting sections will heal much worse.

Be sure to prune all weak and diseased shoots to ensure that the seedlings have an easier overwintering period. We shorten annual branches by 30%, cut off non-skeletal branches to a height of 30 cm.

At the same time, it is advisable to carry out autumn pruning with a saw, and not with a pruner - the cuts from such a tool heal much faster and more painless for the tree.

Autumn care for young seedlings will be incomplete without careful preparation of cherries for the winter period. First of all, wrap the trunk of each seedling with sacking. True, we strongly recommend that residents of the Moscow region regularly check the condition of the tree - if the temperature rises, it is worth removing the insulation, otherwise the trunk may stub. This can cause rotting. Also, don't forget to cover the bottom of the trunk with snow, creating an extra layer of insulation. Lay the spruce branches on top to help protect the cherries from small rodents.

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