Azalea garden deciduous planting and outdoor care

Garden azaleas or, as they are commonly called according to the modern classification of species, rhododendrons are a huge family of flowering shrubs that can seriously differ from each other in size, shades and shape of flowers and even lifestyle.

Numerous varieties and varieties of cultivated rhododendrons can:

• be evergreen and deciduous plants;
• reach a height of 3 meters and rise above the soil by only 50-60 cm;
• differ in terms of flowering.

But all of these plants have common features. Garden azaleas have rather graceful shoots, covered with light bark and slightly elongated oval leaves. The leaf plates are small, dense, with a noticeable pile. When the time for the flowering of azaleas comes, from late April to almost mid-summer, flowers with flat or funnel-shaped corollas appear en masse on the tops of the shoots of last year.

Depending on the species and variety, you can enjoy a lush cloud of white, yellow, pink, lilac or purple flowers from three weeks to 2.5 months.

Deciduous varieties of garden azaleas have been successfully grown in Russia since pre-revolutionary times, and at the beginning of the last century they were actively used for landscaping and decorating parks near Moscow and St. Petersburg. Today, the selection work of botanists from all over the world has made it possible to easily select plants that, with good care, are very winter-hardy and bloom magnificently, grow in the middle lane.

Growing conditions for garden azalea

Garden azalea refers to perennial plants with rather slow growth. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for planting a plant and organizing care for a young bush. For the first time, azaleas bloom only 3-4 years after planting, growing up and reaching full development.

The ideal temperature for growing a garden azalea in the summer is 20-25 ° C, which is quite acceptable for most areas of the Russian middle zone. In winter, many varieties and hybrids can withstand temperatures as low as 27–32 ° C.

Yet the plant needs protection and year-round support. When planning the planting of a garden azalea, you need to be very careful about choosing a suitable place. In nature, rhododendrons are photophilous, but when exposed to direct sunlight:

• lose decorativeness faster;
• worse form flower buds;
• reduce flowering time.

Therefore, for an azalea, it is better to find a flat area protected from wind and flooding by spring waters in partial shade, where the bush will not suffer from summer heat, frost and gusts of cold air. For planting shrubs near the house, a north, east or west wall is suitable.

Rhododendrons grow well in the vicinity of larger trees. True, it should be borne in mind that the roots of the plants do not interfere with each other. Spruces with a taproot system, small-leaved lindens and oaks feel good next to the garden azalea.

For azaleas, the proximity to garden and park ponds is useful.Here, thanks to the natural humidification of the air, the plant blooms longer, and its foliage remains fresh.

Planting a garden azalea

The best time for transplanting or planting garden azaleas is early spring, when the plant has not begun a period of active sap movement. If, for some reason, rhododendrons are not planted at the beginning of the growing season, this can be done in September. For the remaining warm days and weeks, the shrub will have time to acclimatize and successfully overwinter.

Azaleas growing outdoors have a superficial root system. Therefore, a deep planting hole for the shrub is not required, but the preparation of a loose fertile substrate is necessary:

1. The depth of the pit may not exceed 50 cm.
2. In this case, the width should be 20-30 cm greater than the depth.

At the bottom, a powerful drainage layer is made from fragments of red brick, large expanded clay and sand. It is impossible to use limestone chips, since this mineral gradually changes the acidity of the soil and can cause withering and death of an already established bush of a garden azalea.

The soil removed from the planting pit is cleaned of turf, and then they add to it:

• peat cleared of coarse inclusions;
• humus;
• sand and other components necessary to ensure the looseness and structure of the substrate.

Before immersing the seedling in the pit, a small amount of prepared soil is poured onto the drainage layer in the center. The roots of the bush are carefully laid out on it so that the root collar of the azalea, when backfilled, must remain above the soil level. The soil around the plant is compacted and moistened. If the soil has settled, it is poured over, and the surface is abundantly mulched on top.

If you plan to plant a garden azalea purchased from a nursery or store, its root system should first be revived by lowering it into water or watering abundantly before planting.

Seedlings with a closed root system are easier to transplant, while their roots do not need to be cleaned of existing soil, but it is worth checking the health of the roots and removing the damaged ones.

Caring for your garden azalea after planting

During the entire growing season, garden azaleas need abundant watering. The soil should be moistened immediately after the surface layer has dried. Rainwater or settled water is best suited for irrigation. To maintain the increased acidity of the soil, citric or other food acid is added to the irrigation moisture once a month.

On hot days, in addition to the azalea flowering time, the shrubs can be sprayed with warm water to be a good support for the decorative effect of the shrub and prevent insect pests and fungi.

At the end of summer, watering is reduced, provoking the completion of the growth of the shrub and improving its preparation for winter. For the same purpose, the application of dressings is stopped, especially if granular agents of prolonged action were used for this.

Caring for a garden azalea includes mulching, which is designed to protect the roots of the plant from drying out in the summer and frost in the winter. Under such a shelter, weeds develop worse and slower, moisture is saved. A layer of mulch from pine needles, steamed sawdust or shavings, chopped cut grass or even fine expanded clay is replenished and restored as necessary, but does not cover the root collar of the plant.

It is impossible to support a flowering shrub with one watering. Therefore, the azalea is fed at least three times a year.

• In early spring, plants are watered with infusion of mullein or humus.
• Before the beginning of the flowering time of azaleas, in addition to nitrogen, the shrub needs potassium and phosphorus in equal amounts.
• After wilting of most of the inflorescences, the plant is watered with a mixture of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in a ratio of 1: 2.

Plants of garden azaleas are extremely negative about the introduction of fertilizers into the soil, which contain chlorine and lime. You should not use ash, which is popular with gardeners, for feeding.

Watering and feeding during the care of azaleas is carried out not at the root, but at a distance from the center of the bush at least 20 cm.This technique allows you to bring moisture and nutrients to the most active areas of the surface root system of this garden culture.

Pruning azaleas in the garden

The plant begins spring with already formed flower buds, therefore, after wintering, only sanitary pruning of azaleas is carried out in the garden, when dry and diseased shoots are removed.

The formation of a shrub is carried out after the flowers have wilted. During the procedure, both dry peduncles and overly elongated branches are cut off. If you do not remove attention from pruning azaleas for several years, the bush gradually overgrows, the shoots block the access of light and air, which leads to the development of diseases and insect pests.

When pruning azaleas, it is important to remember that the buds are laid on annual shoots, so this year's growth is not affected. After pruning, large hemp is treated with garden pitch.

Young shrubs up to 3 years of age can not be formed, carrying out only the removal of dead shoots.

Winter care for azaleas

Future flowering depends on the care of the azaleas throughout the year, as well as how the plant overwinters. Certain varieties of garden rhododendrons can survive Russian winters without shelter, but in this case it will not work to guarantee the health of the shrub:

1. Flower buds at the ends of the shoots are the first to suffer from the cold.
2. With a lack of snow, sometimes not only young branches but also the root system freeze out.

To protect the plants, autumn starts preparing for winter with abundant watering of the soil under the bushes of garden azaleas. Then the root circle is covered with an additional layer of mulch, for which pine needles, peat or fallen leaves are taken. A layer of such protection for small plants can be 5-10 cm, up to 30 cm of insulation is poured under tall bushes.

Branches of deciduous varieties of azaleas growing in open ground:

• gently tilt to the soil;
• fixed with wire;
• covered with corrugated cardboard, special materials or another layer of spruce branches or peat.

It is not worth covering azaleas with foil or other airtight materials, since there is a high risk of developing rotting and rotting buds and young shoots.

Azalea evergreens are covered with a pre-made frame so as not to damage the shoots and future buds. Inside the shelter, the plant should not be constrained. And it is necessary to insulate the structure with roofing material or non-woven materials only in the established cool weather, if this is done on warm days, next spring it will not be possible to avoid the loss of some of the flowers.

Caring for azaleas in winter is to protect plants from wind and moisture condensing during thaws. If the winter is with little snow, the bushes need to be additionally protected by creating man-made snowdrifts at their base. During the rainy season, azaleas are loosely covered with a film, leaving the possibility of moisture escape.

With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed only after the snow cover melts and the establishment of positive average daily temperatures.

During acclimatization and care of azaleas, they are constantly monitored to avoid sunburn of delicate tissues and wilting of the plant lacking nutrition and moisture.

Garden azaleas are a rewarding culture. Shrubs always respond with lush flowering and growth to adhere to the agrotechnology of growing azaleas in the garden and competent, regular care. No matter where the gardener lives, today you can find many amazing varieties of azaleas that have different colors and different flowering times.

Video about rhododendrons - azaleas in the garden

A couple of decades ago, garden azalea was considered a greenhouse or indoor plant, but in the last decade in our country, gardeners began to grow the plant in the open field.Blooming bush azalea is incomparable - the branches are abundantly covered with delicate buds of a simple or double shape and various shades.

Where does the garden bush azalea come from?

In addition to white, pink, yellow, purple, red or orange color, there are varieties with multi-colored buds, which makes the plants even more decorative. Lush flowering subject to the rules of agricultural technology lasts 3 to 10 weeks.

The basis of hybrid varieties that can withstand the moderate winters of the Central Russian zone in the open field is Japanese, which is considered a national plant in its homeland. The ancestors of the greenhouse varieties are the heat-loving Indian azaleas.

Site selection: open ground in the Moscow region and other regions

Planting a seedling begins with choosing a suitable place in the garden. For those who are interested in planting a plant in the Moscow region, there are no fundamental differences. Azalea will not grow in a randomly selected area.

The choice of location depends not so much on the region as on the microclimate.

When transferring a seedling to open ground, the several conditions:

• A large amount of light is required without direct sunlight. Otherwise, the grown bush will begin to shed its buds, the flowering period will be significantly reduced, and the leaves will wrinkle.
• Evergreen species are recommended to be planted in areas with diffused light or partial shade.
• Deciduous varieties grow well in bright areas under the shade of large trees, provided that the roots of the plants do not interfere with each other. Best suited as companions yew, thuja, spruce, oak, larch... Alder, poplar, maple are not suitable for the neighborhood - their superficial root system takes moisture and nutrition.
• When landing near buildings, any side except the south will do.

It is worth giving preference to areas with flat relief, where water does not stagnate in spring after the snow melts.

• Protection against gusts of wind and drafts is required, they should not be planted at the corner of buildings and between buildings.
• Proximity to a natural or artificial body of water is perfect - moist air will prolong flowering and keep the foliage fresh.

When growing a garden azalea for normal development, the air temperature during the growing season should be + 20 + 25 ° С - almost all regions of central Russia correspond to these conditions. In winter, garden varieties are able to withstand a cold snap to -27 ° C, with more severe frosts, the plant will die.

Too cold winters, typical for the north of Russia, are destructive for the bush

Group plantings look the most decorative. When located in the garden, do not plant evergreen and deciduous species next to it, set the center of the site for tall varieties, and the near edge for undersized varieties.

Choose plants taking into account the color of the buds: yellow with orange, purple with white, pink with purple, red with white are best combined.

Soil and planting

Azalea will grow well only on loose and acidic soils, which contain sand, peat and coniferous soil. The acidity of the soil is necessary constantly maintain at the level of 4.0-4.5... For planting a seedling, early spring is suitable before the juice begins to move or the beginning of autumn - the bush will have time to take root in a new place before the cold weather begins and will normally endure the winter cold.

Garden azaleas have a shallow root system, so they don't need a deep planting hole. However, planting seedlings has some nuances:

• Dig a landing hole 0.5 m deep and 0.6-0.7 m in diameter.
• Lay a 15-20 cm drainage layer of sand, expanded clay and broken brick at the bottom of the pit - it will acidify the soil. It is undesirable to use lime materials (crushed stone, crumbs), otherwise alkalization of the soil is inevitable, which azaleas cannot tolerate.
• Mix the soil taken out of the pit with peat, humus and coarse sand to increase looseness and soil permeability.
• Pour the soil mixture on the drainage layer and place the seedling on the hill, controlling the level of the root collar - after planting it should be slightly above the soil level.
• Gently fill the root ball with soil, compact the soil around the seedling, add soil and water if necessary.
• Mulch the soil around the bush with moss, peat, pine needles or crushed bark - mulch will prevent the growth of weeds and retain life-giving moisture in the soil.

Plants in containers can be planted throughout the summer, when removing from the container, the earth must not be crushed from the roots. Seedlings purchased from nurseries or garden centers should be watered abundantly before planting.

It is highly recommended to water the plant bought from the nursery abundantly

You can dip the root ball into the water for a while until air bubbles stop appearing from the water.

Purchase seedlings in a large container, the size of which corresponds to the total size of the plant - in small containers, the roots do not develop well.

When buying, check the agrotechnical characteristics and check the viability of the bush: its branches should be elastic, healthy and strong. Sick and weak seedling it will not be possible to leave.

Mulching and feeding

For mulching bushes, crushed pine bark, fallen needles, steamed sawdust, small expanded clay, peat or tree foliage (except for chestnut and maple trees) are used.

Mulching retains moisture in the ground, prevents weeds from growing, protects surface roots from overheating in summer and from freezing in winter. When mulching, the root collar should be free.

Without feeding, there will be no abundant flowering, and for the normal growth of azaleas need additional food... There should be several dressings during the summer:

• In the spring, add a solution of mullein (humus) in a ratio of 1:10.
• At the time of bud formation, a second mullein feeding is carried out with the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• When the last buds fall off, the third feeding is carried out with phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 2.
• Top dressing is applied at a distance of 0.2-0.3 m from the center of the bush.

When applying complex fertilizers, it is necessary to ensure that they do not contain chlorine and lime... Also, you cannot use wood ash - it changes the acidity of the soil, reducing it.

Watering, weeding and spraying

Watering the azalea should be abundant throughout the summer season. A slightly dry soil surface is a signal for the next moisture. Water the plant with rain or settled water, adding citric acid to the irrigation water once a month (1 tsp for 2 liters of water) - it increases the acidity of the soil.

As with any plant, it is highly recommended to take into account the seasonality when watering the bush.

With the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots, which will not have time to mature and freeze before winter. Before the beginning of winter, the plant is watered abundantly - water-charging watering will allow to endure frosts with minimal losses.

Besides watering, azalea loves sprinkling - humid air is favorable for the decorativeness of the plant and is a prophylactic agent against insect pests. However, during flowering, this procedure must be abandoned, otherwise spots will form on the flowers, spoiling the appearance of the plant.

Do not forget about weeding - during the entire growing season, you need to weed the site several times. Only this must be done carefully so as not to damage the surface roots of the azalea.

Transfer

The transplant is carried out according to the same principle as the landing. The best time to transplant a plant is early spring. Considering that azalea considered a capricious plant, it is recommended to choose a suitable day for transplanting according to the lunar calendar.

The planting depth must be kept at the same level.

Around the transplanted bush, it is recommended to make a side of moss or earth, it will help trap snow in winter and protect the roots from frost.

Pruning

Pruning bushes is carried out in three stages:

1. In the spring, they do sanitary pruning, cutting out diseased and dry shoots. The rest of the shoots do not touch - flower buds have been laid on them since autumn.
2. During flowering regularly remove wilted flowers.
3. After the last buds wither, formative pruning is carried out - remove dry peduncles, shorten shoots that are too long, cut out branches that strongly thicken the bush.

The remaining shoots are shortened by no more than 1/3 of the total length - the next year the azalea will branch out and take the form of a lush and abundantly flowering plant.

When pruning a bush, keep in mind that the types of pruning depend on the season.

With any pruning, the places of the cuts are covered with garden varnish or any paint based on drying oil. Work is carried out in protective gloves to avoid skin irritation - the sap of the plant is poisonous.

Azalea is a slow-growing plant species and reaches maturity at 3-4 years of age. Therefore, young bushes do not form, but only carry out sanitary pruning.

Diseases and pests

Gardening can suffer from fungal infections and insects. The most common diseases are rust, leaf spot, and rot. In the fight against diseases, spraying with fungicides or copper sulfate is effective.

As a prophylaxis of diseases, it is recommended to treat the bushes at least once a season before flowering with Oxyhom or after flowering with Fundazol.

Potential pests
Aphid	They will come to the rescue insecticide solutions - help to get rid of pests that interfere with the full growth and development of plants
Black thrips
Spider mite
Mealybug
Whitefly

Lightening leaves on azalea bushes, the color of which turns yellow over time, indicate a characteristic disease - calcareous chlorosis. It is treated by introducing solutions under the bush that help increase the acidity of the soil:

• table or apple cider vinegar - 100 ml per 10 liters of water;
• citric or oxalic acid - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

For watering 1 sq. m. will require 10 liters of solution. Peat (1.5 kg per 1 sq. M) is suitable as a soil acidifier.

Lack of flowering

Florists are often faced with the fact that the garden azalea does not bloom... There are several reasons for this:

• alkaline or neutral soil;
• lack of scattered light;
• moisture deficiency;
• high air temperature;
• insufficient nutrition or, conversely, frequent and abundant feeding.

Subject to all the requirements for planting and caring for the plant, it will delight with lush and long flowering.

Reproduction: growing street Azalea from seeds and not only

The garden azalea is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

The choice of breeding method depends on how quickly you want to get the result.

The easiest way is to lean the side shoot to the ground, fix it with wire, sprinkle it with earth and water it regularly. After a while it will take root, and next spring the young bush can be separated from the mother plant.

Divide the bushes with a vein before the start of sap flow. With the help of a sharp object (spatula, spatula), part of the bush is separated and transplanted to a new place. In this case, the mother bush should have a well-developed root system and several healthy shoots.

Propagation by cuttings takes from 1.5 to 4 months from the time of cutting the cuttings to their rooting. To achieve the result, you need to follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners:

• Cut the apical cuttings 10 cm long. The apical bud and lower leaves removeleaving 2-3 healthy leaves.
• Treat the sections with a growth stimulant. Embed the cuttings by 2-3 cm in individual pots or cups filled with a mixture of peat and sand. Moisten the soil.
• Cover the cups with cut-off plastic bottles to create mini greenhouses.A week after planting the cuttings, begin airing by unscrewing the lids or removing the caps daily for 10-15 minutes.

Micro greenhouses help maintain the right temperature

• For successful rooting, maintain an air temperature of + 20 + 24 ° C and water as needed, remembering to drain excess water from the trays.
• After rooting, transplant the cuttings into a container with fertile acidic soil.
• Plant in a year to a permanent place in the garden.

Propagation by cuttings is a troublesome and time-consuming process, but it has its advantages. If a neighbor in the country cuts cuttings from his bushes, you will immediately see which plant will bloom in your garden in 3-4 years.

The seed method of reproduction is practically not used by gardeners - with this method of reproduction, you will have to wait a long time for the first flowering.

Lovers of growing plants from seeds can try to germinate them in an impromptu daily ventilated greenhouse, keeping an eye on behind the substrate moisture.

Winter preparation and spring care

The buds of the next year are laid in the fall. Therefore, it is important to preserve the plant during the winter and help it survive the frosts.

Despite the relatively good winter hardiness of many varieties, it is more reliable to cover the shrub for the winter in order to ensure that flower buds, young branches and superficial roots are kept healthy:

• After water-charging irrigation, the ground under the bushes is mulched 5-10 cm thick.Under tall azaleas, the mulch layer can be increased to 30 cm.
• The branches of deciduous varieties are gently bent to the ground and fixed with wire... A multilayer shelter is made of corrugated cardboard, covering materials and spruce branches.

When organizing winter protection, polyethylene and other airtight materials are not used, otherwise the buds and shoots will mate and rot.

• For evergreen varieties, a frame is preliminarily made, which is installed before the ground freezes, the covering material is pulled onto the frame only with the onset of stable cold weather.

Do not use materials that are not breathable, otherwise the bush will rot

The frame is insulated with durable materials or roofing felt so that a distance of 20-25 cm remains between the walls of the shelter and the shrub. To drain moisture under the structure lay flexible hose, the other end of which is taken out.

With the onset of the first spring days, you should not rush to open the azalea bushes, you need to wait for the complete melting of the snow cover on the site. Plants that have become unaccustomed to sunlight over the winter should be gradually accustomed to the spring rays, opening them briefly in the morning and gradually increasing the time.

Plants tolerate winter differently and must be cooked accordingly. For example, there is a procedure for how to prepare gloxinia for wintering and a dormant period.

The first time it is better to open the bushes on a cloudy day.

Azalea is a demanding outdoor plant. She needs to create certain conditions under which she will feel good. In response, the shrub will thank you with a huge number of flowers that will delight you for a long time. Planting several varieties of azalea with different flowering times at the same time allows you to enjoy a riot of colors throughout the summer.

If you think that azaleas are exclusively indoor or greenhouse flowers, then you are deeply mistaken. It turns out that there are winter-hardy varieties of this beautiful plant that can easily withstand sub-zero temperatures down to –27 ° С. So that you can figure out which species of azaleas can be grown in your garden, we will try to tell you in detail about planting and caring for this magnificent bush.

Planting azaleas

Azalea is a capricious and demanding plant. All growing conditions are important for him: light, temperature, soil composition. There should be as much light as possible, but the azalea does not tolerate direct sunlight - when they hit the plant, it weakens, the leaves wrinkle, and the buds fall off.Therefore, it is necessary to choose places with partial shade or diffused light. This applies to evergreen species of azaleas (for example, the Japanese azalea). Deciduous azaleas prefer a bright yet sheltered place under the trees.

The next important factor when growing azaleas is the correct selection of soil cover. You can pick up the soil mixture yourself (you need a loose and acidic soil containing coniferous soil, sand and peat) or buy soil for azaleas in stores. The root system of azaleas is superficial, therefore, if necessary, it is enough to replace 40-50 cm of the upper fertile soil layer.

You can plant container seedlings throughout the summer season, in other cases, planting is carried out in the spring. The seedling is planted in a pit 70 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Before adding fertile soil, we arrange drainage in the depth of the pit of coarse sand and broken brick. The thickness of the drainage layer should be about 15-20 cm, if you plant the azalea in a deeper hole, then about 30-40 cm.Crushed limestone is not recommended to be used as drainage - it makes the soil less acidic, alkalizes it. After planting, water the seedling abundantly and be sure to mulch the soil around it, using fallen needles, moss, chopped bark and peat as mulch. This protection will retain moisture in the soil, inhibit the growth of weeds, and protect the azalea roots from the winter frost.

Azalea propagation

Azalea is propagated by seeds and cuttings. The last method is faster, so we will consider it.

Propagation of azaleas by cuttings For this method of reproduction, the apical cuttings of the azalea are chosen. They root best in spring - March and April. Cut the cuttings from the mother plant up to 10 cm long, while the apical bud and undeveloped leaves must be removed. We also remove the lower leaves, the main thing is that 2-3 intact and healthy leaves remain on the handle. We make the lower cut of the cutting with a sharp pruner at an angle (about 45 °) and sprinkle with a stimulant (to accelerate root formation). This is necessary to increase the number of surviving cuttings. Then we put the cuttings in small containers with a drain hole (for this purpose, you can use disposable cups with a capacity of 10 ml), filled with high-moor peat and spray. The cut of the cuttings should be in the soil at a depth of 2-3 cm. After placing the cuttings in containers, cover them with a film (the film should not touch the cuttings).

Rooting of cuttings depends on a number of factors. First, the temperature. The optimum air temperature for the development of the root system will be 18 ° С, for the soil - 22 ° С. In order to maintain the optimal temperature regime, it is advisable to put the containers on heating from below. In the future (after a week of time), constant airing of the cuttings will be required. The high peat we used as a substrate must be moist. The cuttings will need to be cared for for about 1.5 months, then they will take root and can be transplanted into the soil.

Azalea care

Caring for a garden azalea consists in timely pruning, proper watering, feeding and covering for the winter.

Pruning Pruning is done after the plant has faded, about 2 weeks later. When pruning, we completely remove wilted or strongly thickening shoots, cut off other shoots by about a third of their length. To keep the garden azalea bush lush and branch well the next year, we do pruning along the entire periphery of the bush. We cover the cut points with paint on linseed oil or garden varnish. To lay a larger number of flower buds, it is also advisable to remove completely wilted flowers from the bush.

Watering Abundant watering and spraying garden azaleas love, because if you dry them out, you are unlikely to save them. But it is important not to pour them! For example, a plant needs abundant watering when it blooms.At the same time, at the time of flowering, the azalea does not need to be sprayed so that its beautiful flowers are not covered with spots. In autumn, when the air is humid, watering should be limited, and before the onset of winter, watering is necessary only in stable and dry weather.

Top dressing Young seedlings of garden azalea are fed in spring with a mullein solution, and after flowering - with a phosphorus-potassium mixture of fertilizers (in a ratio of 1: 2). Adult bushes are fed in early spring with a mixture of long-acting complex fertilizers. Fertilizers when feeding are applied not under the root of the bush, but at a short distance from it (about 20 cm from the center of the bush). We draw your attention to the fact that garden azaleas, like other rhododendrons, are not suitable for fertilizer mixtures containing lime and chlorine.

Shelter for the winter The garden azalea does not like the strong winter sun, which can easily destroy the roots of this plant. Therefore, any winter-hardy species of azaleas must be watered abundantly at the end of autumn until the ground is completely frozen. Then the evergreen varieties are covered with coniferous spruce branches, undersized varieties can also be mulched with oak leaves. We bend the branches of deciduous species as close to the ground as possible so that during the winter they would be under the snow.

Types and varieties of azaleas

In our open garden plots, Japanese azalea (Azalea japonica) and deciduous azalea take root well - they can withstand winter frosts down to –27 ° С. Most varieties of Indian azalea are indoor plants, they cannot stand our frosts in the open air. Here are the most popular types of azaleas, as well as their photos:

Japanese azalea Marushka Bushes grow slowly, growing up to 50 cm in height. Blossoms in May, inflorescences on the plant are juicy red. It is advisable to plant in semi-dark places, with acidic and moderately moist soil.

Japanese azalea Peticout Like the Marushka variety, the plant grows up to 50 cm in height and blooms in May. Flowers in pink inflorescences. Without abundant watering, the leaves of the plant fall off.

Japanese azalea Ledikanense Another variety of Japanese azalea. Growing conditions and appearance are similar to the previous two varieties. Flowers on the plant are purple.

Japanese azalea Schneeperle This variety differs from the previous varieties with white inflorescences. The bush is incredibly beautiful in May, at the time of flowering.

Japanese azalea Geisha Orange The flower petals of this variety are orange, the bush does not really like overdrying the soil.

Azalea deciduous large-flowered hybrid knapHill It grows up to 1.5 m in height, blooms up to 2 months, at the time of flowering the plant is completely covered with flowers.

I would also like to suggest how to choose the right winter-hardy azalea variety when buying. In specialized stores, winter-hardy varieties are usually sold in the spring, and indoor varieties (such as Indian azalea) are sold all year round. Also, garden varieties look like small bushes from 20-25 cm high, with a small number of leaves and barely noticeable flower buds. Indoor azaleas are sold already in bloom, with beautiful large leaves, while the plant can reach a height of only 10 cm.

According to the modern classification, the garden azalea is called rhododendron. This family includes a large number of species that are distinguished by their beauty and splendor of flowering. All these varieties can have significant differences among themselves:

1. Shrubs can be deciduous or evergreen.
2. Be in height from half a meter to three meters.
3. Differ in terms of flowering time.

Garden azalea grows in temperate climates... Some rhododendron varieties can only grow in cold regions. The height of the plant and the diameter of the calyx of the garden azalea can vary considerably.

The classic garden azalea looks like this:

1. The shoots of the plant are very delicate and fragile and covered with scales.Such branches are very easily exposed to mechanical damage and require special care.
2. Japanese azalea sprouts are covered with light thin bark.
3. The leaves of the plant are traditionally oval in shape. When it comes to hybrid varieties, the leaf can be round or carved.
4. Garden azaleas grow both in groups and as individual shrubs.
5. Inflorescences can be monochromatic or multi-colored. Flowers can be simple, fringed or double.

Conditions for growing garden azalea - choosing a planting site

The main condition for the successful cultivation of this ornamental garden shrub is the right choice of planting site. On the bush should not get in direct sunlight. It is best to choose a shaded area in your garden. However, in the thick shade of the azalea it will also be uncomfortable. The plant needs diffused sunlight.

The best place to plant a garden azalea is on the north side of the house. In such a place, the plant will be illuminated by the sun in the morning and afternoon.

When choosing a place to plant Japanese azalea, it should be borne in mind that different varieties need different degrees of shading. An evergreen plant needs constant diffused lighting. Deciduous varieties feel very comfortable in the shade of trees when the sun's rays break through the crowns.

Neighborhood with other plants plays a significant role. Best of all, garden azalea is adjacent to larch and oak. It is not recommended to plant a shrub next to a maple, poplar, linden - the roots of these trees go shallowly into the ground and will pick up moisture from the rhododendron. If it is not possible to settle the plants far away from each other, you can isolate the roots with a waterproof film or roofing material.

It is very important to protect the rhododendron from wind and drafts. Do not plant shrubs at the corner of a building or in areas that are blown through between buildings.

A good solution would be a site near a natural or artificial reservoir - in such places the air always has sufficient humidity. However, the site should not be allowed to flood during the spring thaw.

How to plant an azalea

It is best to choose a variety for planting based on the characteristics of your personal plot.

1. When buying seedlings, carefully read their agrotechnical characteristics.
2. It is best to purchase a plant in a spacious container with a large earthy clod. If a young plant is in a cramped container, its root system will be underdeveloped.
3. If the potted medium is dry, the plant may not take root in your garden.
4. The branches of a young plant should be firm and healthy. A seedling with weak shoots will not be viable.

By purchasing a seedling, you need to make sure that the plant is well adhered to the soil. To do this, you can gently pull on the base - a healthy seedling will be pulled out of the pot along with an earthen lump.

It is also necessary to properly prepare the soil before planting in the ground. To do this, dig a hole 50 cm deep and 70–80 cm in diameter. Drainage is poured at the bottom with a layer of 20 cm. You can use broken brick with sand. Do not use lime compounds as drainage - they can alkalize the soil unnecessarily.

The acquired plant is removed from the container and placed in a hole along with an earthen lump. Beforehand, you should thoroughly moisten the roots. If the soil in the container is dry, the earthen ball should be submerged in water and wait until the bubbles stop coming out.

The plant is placed in the pit so that the top of the earthen ball is at the level of the upper edge of the pit. The remaining space is covered with soil... The surface is slightly compacted.

Outdoor plant care

The rules for caring for a rhododendron in the open ground at a summer cottage are as follows:

1. Water the plant abundantly as soon as the topsoil dries up. For irrigation, they use settled water, you can rain or from a pond. In August, you need to drastically reduce the amount and frequency of watering to give the plant the opportunity to prepare for the dormant period.
2. You can slightly acidify the soil monthly. To do this, take the juice of 5 lemons and 5 liters of water. For a young plant, 1.5 liters of solution will be enough, and an adult will need 2.5 liters.
3. Mulching can be done with dry foliage and pine needles. Do not use chestnut and maple leaves - they have an alkaline reaction and decompose very quickly. In summer, a layer of mulch will protect the roots from drying out and overheating, and in winter - from freezing. Do not cover the root collar of the shrub with a layer of mulch. A layer of mulch can be added as needed.
4. Pruning of garden azalea is carried out as needed - remove all dried and damaged shoots and wilted inflorescences. Places of removal are treated with linseed oil or garden varnish. If all the shoots of the plant are healthy, pruning can be omitted. Correction of the crown is necessary only for old shrubs and only after the end of flowering. Avoid pruning in the spring before flowering. You can remove shoots with formed flower buds.
5. Garden azalea loves moist air, so it needs regular spraying. You can simply place a barrel of water in the garden next to the bushes. Do not spray the bush during flowering - water gets on the flowers and damages them. You can do without additional care and watering in autumn or rainy summer.
6. You can feed the deciduous azalea in the spring - for this, a mullein solution is used. The second feeding is carried out before the onset of the flowering period. At this time, a mixture of mullein and potassium with phosphorus is used. You should not use pig or horse manure for fertilization - only cow manure. Imported granular fertilizers are not suitable for growing azaleas in the Russian climate - they are designed for six warm months a year and can lead to the freezing of unripe shoots. Wood ash is also not suitable for fertilization - it is capable of leaching the soil in the garden.

Diseases and pests

Azalea in the garden can be affected by the following diseases:

1. Calcareous chlorosis is the most common ailment of this ornamental shrub. The shrub leaves brighten at first, and then begin to turn yellow. Top dressing with peat and acid mixtures will be a good preventive measure.
2. Often, azalea is affected by fungal diseases - rust, rot, spotting. It is necessary to treat these diseases with fungicidal agents.
3. The defeat of necrosis can occur with a sharp cold snap during the growing season and is expressed in the appearance of brown spots on the leaves.
4. With the defeat of Fusarium, yellowing and wilting of the stems of the rhododendron are observed. This condition can be treated with Fundazole.
5. If the plant lacks sunlight and timely pruning is not carried out, it can get sick with septoria. This disease is characterized by reddish-yellow patches on foliage and stems. You can cope with this ailment with the help of a fungicide.

For the prevention of diseases, rhododendron needs to be treated with "Hom" or "Oxyhom" products. These preparations are used before flowering begins. At the end of the flowering period, foundation is applied.

The most common pests of azaleas are rhododendron mites, spider mites, mealybugs, aphids and black thrips. If signs of parasite infestation appear, insecticidal agents should be used.

Very often, novice gardeners are faced with the question of why azalea does not bloom. Most likely, this is due to a violation of the rules of care - the plant lacks sunlight or moisture in the garden. Perhaps the air temperature is too high for a rhododendron.

Wintering and transplanting garden azalea

In the autumn, flower buds are laid at the plant. How the azalea blooms directly depends on the quality of wintering. The plant must be prepared for winter in the most careful way. In the fall, before freezing the soil, the shrub should be thoroughly watered.

In order for the plant to have time to prepare for winter, you should not feed it in the fall.

Cover the root zone for the winter a protective layer of peat, pine needles or foliage. A layer of 5-7 cm will be enough for young plants. For adult tall shrubs, a layer of insulation of 20-30 cm is required.

Transplanting the azalea is best in the spring. If you did not have time to do this, you can transplant the rhododendron immediately after flowering, but no later than September. Since flower buds are laid in the fall, it is not necessary to expect active flowering the next year after transplantation.

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