Watermelon planting and care outdoors in the middle lane

Growing watermelons in the open field is possible even in the unstable climate of the middle zone. And we have seen this from our own experience. In order not to be unfounded, we will tell and show you how to grow delicious watermelons in the country.

Several years ago, my parents had already tried to grow a thermophilic melons and gourds, but the first experience was not crowned with success: the fruits did not have time to ripen and turned out to be tasteless. Perhaps the main mistake was choosing the wrong variety. Now we took a more responsible attitude to this matter and took into account the advice of experienced gardeners.

Choosing a variety of watermelons

The fact is that not every variety of table watermelon is suitable for growing in our latitudes. First of all, you need to pay attention not to the yield indicators or the taste of the fruit pulp, but to the ripening period. For the middle lane, those varieties and hybrids are suitable for which the growing season is 70-80 days, that is, early and mid-early. It is also important that the variety is cold-resistant.

We chose a very early variety Ogonyok and a medium early variety - Foton. The fruits of these varieties have different skin colors, so during the harvest we had no doubts which of the varieties turned out to be better.

Table watermelon Spark
	From germination to the first harvest - 73-83 days. The length of the main whip is no more than 180 cm. Fruits are globular, dark green, weighing 2.5-3 kg. The bark is thin and fragile. The pulp is red-orange, tender, sweet, juicy.

Table watermelon Photon
	Medium early variety of Russian selection. The period from germination to harvesting the first crop is 85-90 days. Fruit weight - 4-6 kg. The plant is long-leaved. Fruits are oblong-rounded, green with dark green stripes. The bark is of medium thickness. The pulp is red, very tender, of excellent taste.

Sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings

The most suitable sowing time is April. In more southern regions, it is better to do this in the middle of the month, and in northern regions - at the end.

In order for the seeds to sprout better, we first germinated them.To do this, they put it between two cotton pads moistened with water and placed it on the battery (or you can simply wrap it in a damp cloth and put it in a warm place). A few days later they hatched.

After that, we took plastic cups with a volume of 0.5 liters, filled them with ready-made soil with an acidity of 6-6.5 pH, intended for seedling vegetables. The soil was moistened and one seed was planted in each container, deepening it by 1.5-2 cm. The seedlings need enough light for germination, so we put them on the windowsill located on the south side.

Seedlings of watermelons are grown without picking.

During the day, the air temperature in the room was maintained at 20-22 ° C, and at night - 17-18 ° C. All our radiators are equipped with thermostats, so it was not difficult to do this. The seedlings were watered 2 times a week. But if the air in the apartment is too dry, then the soil should be checked regularly and, if necessary, humidified more often.

The seedlings were not long in coming and sprouted together after 2-3 days.

Watermelons grow quickly. In early May, their stems have already begun to branch out and "crawl". It was about time to take them to the dacha.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Watermelons prefer light, sandy soil. Seedlings should be planted in the garden in the second half of May (25-30 days after the emergence of shoots), however, it is necessary to pay attention to the weather, because in the middle lane in May there are often night frosts, and the soil should have time to warm up to 12-15 ° WITH.

Watermelon lashes are growing strongly. Therefore, we kept a distance of 70-80 cm between the plants, and about 2 m between the rows.

If the soil on the site is not very fertile, during planting of seedlings, it is recommended to add 17-20 g of potash, 15-17 g of nitrogen, 13-14 g of phosphorus and 5-6 g of magnesium fertilizers to each hole.

Since in our region it is still cold for watermelons in May, we installed metal arches along the beds and covered the plantings with spunbond. The nonwoven material was finally removed only at the end of June.

The watermelons were regularly weeded and watered as the soil dries. In general, they are picky and able to withstand drought. We came to the dacha only once a week, and the plants felt great.

When the long lashes grew, we covered their bases with soil to form additional roots. Thanks to this, plant nutrition improved, and strong gusts of wind could not break the stems. In addition, too long lashes that went beyond the garden and thickened the plantings, we pinched.

Harvesting watermelons

Watermelons are demanding for heat and light, so the ripening period of the fruits largely depends on the weather. We were harvesting in August-September.

The fruits were cut off the whips when their tails began to dry out. It is very important not to miss this moment, as overripe watermelons quickly start to rot.

The fruits varied in weight. On hot days, rather large watermelons ripened (weighing about 2 kg), but still most of the fruits did not reach 1 kg. Despite the fact that their flesh was light, the taste was excellent.

Watermelon varieties Ogonyok

However, not all varieties made us happy. The striped fruits of the Photon variety turned out to be small (they did not at all reach the 4-6 kg declared by the manufacturer). By external signs, they had time to ripen, but the taste of the pulp left much to be desired: it was quite juicy, but absolutely tasteless.

Foton watermelon

The largest fruit of the Photon variety that we have grown, weighed 3 kg 673 g.

But the own fruits of the Ogonyok variety turned out to be no worse than store-bought watermelons. Moreover, after collection, they were well stored on the balcony until mid-autumn.

Have you tried growing watermelons or melons outdoors under difficult climatic conditions? Share your experience in the comments.

Watermelon is a juicy, sunny treat. Presenting its taste, we recall the warm days of the end of summer, melons and gourds and pulp that melts in the mouth. It is known that watermelons grow in the south, where the hot sun feeds them with its energy.Probably, if you have not tried, then you just wondered, is it possible to grow a watermelon in a climate where the summer is not so hot and long? The answer is yes! There are varieties that successfully mature in conditions that are not very suitable, in the classical sense. Therefore, the dream of your own melon can easily come true!

Is it possible to grow watermelons in central Russia

At first glance, it seems that the climatic conditions in central Russia are far from the best option for harvesting delicious watermelons. The favorable temperature for fruit ripening is 25–30 ° C. However, in the Central region, there is rarely a warm and long summer. In order for watermelons to grow in temperate climates, they need to create conditions. And also choose varieties for growing that have an early or medium ripening period and resistance to low temperatures. These are the main selection criteria, and yield, fruit size, transportability become secondary factors.

Did you know that watermelon belongs to the pumpkin family and is more similar in structure to a berry than a fruit or vegetable.

There are varieties of watermelons not only with classic red pulp, but also yellow and even white

Watermelon varieties for growing in temperate climates

Currently, there are 50 varieties of watermelons that are suitable for cultivation in the middle zone of our country. Consider the most proven varieties, their characteristics and distinctive qualities.

Table: popular varieties of watermelons for the middle strip

Photo gallery: early and cold-resistant varieties of watermelons

Growing seedlings

Since the warm period in the middle lane is shorter than the berry needs for ripening, this period can be compensated for by growing seedlings at home. The best time to plant seeds is considered to be late April or early May. Watermelon belongs to those plants that do not tolerate transplanting very well. Therefore, it is better to immediately choose spacious containers in order to avoid further diving. The optimal volume of a glass, pot or other container is 300 ml, the height is 10 cm. Drainage holes are made in the bottom.

Seeds for planting are pre-prepared, otherwise germination will have to wait a long time. First of all, it is kept in hot water (50–55 ° C) for 20 minutes or half an hour. And then germinate until a small sprout appears. For this procedure, use:

• wet sand heated to 25 ° C;
• soft, damp paper, such as toilet paper or filter paper;
• cotton pads moistened with water.

When the sprouts hatch, they are planted in 2 or 3 seeds in pre-prepared containers. The soil used is chosen as follows: sand (or sawdust), turf and peat are mixed in equal parts. The seeds are deepened into the ground by 2 cm.

The soil is sprinkled with sand, the containers are covered with film or glass on top. The place where the seedlings will germinate should be warm. The temperature is maintained at 25 ° C during the day and 18–20 ° C at night. If the air in the room is dry, the soil is periodically ventilated and moistened.

It takes a week for seedlings to appear. When the seedlings germinate, they remove the material with which the containers were closed, the temperature is lowered to 16-18 ° C.

Watermelon seedlings are not at all difficult to obtain at home.

If the weather is cloudy, the plants will lack light. Therefore, lighting is additionally done with the help of lamps.

Watermelon is a very light-loving plant! Its exposure to the sun should be at least 12 hours daily.

While the seedlings are growing, they are regularly watered with warm water without excessive drying out or waterlogging of the earthen mixture. Do not allow moisture to enter the leaves. This leads to decay of plants. One and a half weeks after the appearance of the first shoots, the seedlings are fed with complex fertilizer.

You can transplant young plants into the greenhouse when they have three true leaves, in open ground - after the formation of the fourth.It will be beneficial to accustom watermelons to fresh air 10 days before transplanting, taking them to an open space, for example, a balcony. The time spent there starts from two hours and gradually increases.

Video: how to grow healthy watermelon seedlings

Landing in open ground

For watermelons, light sandy or sandy loam soil is suitable. The plot is prepared in the fall: they dig up the soil and add rotted (not fresh!) Manure at the rate of 5 kg per 1 square meter, superphosphate fertilizer (40 g), ammonium sulfate (25–35 g) and potassium salt (20–25 g). Potassium and phosphorus will help the fruit accumulate more sugars and grow sweet and tasty.

Since watermelons love warmth, the area set aside for cultivation should be sheltered from the wind, warm up well and be well lit. The best place will be the southern, as well as the southeastern part of the garden, dacha. The air temperature at the time of planting should be at least 15 ° C, and the soil should be warmed to a depth of at least 10 cm (this can be measured with a special thermometer). A complex of fertilizers is applied to the soil (per 5 liters of soil):

• double superphosphate (100 g),
• dolomite flour (50-60 g),
• potassium sulfate (55 g),
• ammonium nitrate (55 g).

On the beds, holes are made in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other. The distance between the rows should be at least two meters, since the lashes of the watermelon grow strongly. Seedlings are planted in holes to the level of cotyledon leaves together with a lump of earth, sprinkled with sand 10 cm in a circle and watered with warm water. When transplanting, be careful not to damage the root of the young watermelon.

When planting, be careful not to damage the root system of a young watermelon, otherwise the plant will not take root well and will not yield a harvest

Arcs are constructed along the perimeter of the beds and the covering material is fixed on them. Until the seedlings are in full growth vigor, the shoots protect against a possible drop in temperature or excessive solar activity.

Growing watermelons outdoors has both advantages and disadvantages. This method provides the plants with the necessary free space for growth and the maximum possible amount of sunlight. And also promotes high-quality pollination, because insects fly up to flowers without hindrance. However, if the weather is not too favorable, then the excessive amount of moisture negatively affects the growth of watermelons, and from sudden changes in temperature the plants get sick with powdery mildew.

Video: how to plant watermelon seedlings in open ground

Greenhouse cultivation of watermelons in the middle lane

If you are not completely sure that the summer weather will be favorable, then it is possible that the watermelons are grown in greenhouse conditions. The same points are observed as when planting in open ground - the requirements for the composition and temperature of the soil. Only the amount of mineral fertilizer changes, since in a limited space, accurate application is required - for 1 square meter, you will need 3 tablespoons of nitrophosphate and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. Also, vertical trellises are installed in advance, on which, as they grow, they tie up the lashes of watermelons.

A greenhouse will be a way out if the climatic conditions of your region do not meet the conditions for growing watermelons in their natural environment.

It is important to remember that no more than three seedling bushes are placed on 1 square meter. Do not plant the plants closely. They will feel stuffy, and since the whips, increasing in size, give shade, the leaves and flowers will not receive the required amount of sunlight, they will grow more slowly and get sick. It is important to maintain a dry climate in the greenhouse; for this, ventilation is done if the humidity level exceeds 70%.

Bees are necessarily allowed into the greenhouse to carry out pollination, but it is better to do this procedure yourself, since the male flowers of watermelon live very little. The male flower is plucked, the petals are carefully removed and applied to the female flowers so that the anthers touch the stigmas.

Male (above) and female (below) watermelon flower: the female flower has a small fruit at the base

It is also good for one female flower to be pollinated by different male ones. Pollination is carried out in the morning, when the temperature did not have time to rise above 20 ° C.

Since watermelons have to grow vertically in a greenhouse, the lashes will not be able to withstand more than a couple of fruits. Therefore, take care of the timely thinning of the ovaries and tying up the berries.

In a greenhouse, no more than two fruits are grown on one whip, which must be tied up

Remember that planting watermelons in the same greenhouse with other plants is not possible, since the long roots of melons do not allow other crops to grow.

How to care for watermelons in temperate climates

Watermelon does not differ in care requirements, but of course, it is necessary to pay a minimum of attention to it.

Watering and weeds

The plant has a large root that goes deep into the ground. This provides the ground part with moisture even during dry periods. Thus, watermelons do not require frequent water addition. Once a week is enough. In this case, water not only directly the holes, but also the area on which the plants are located. If the weather is dry, you can double the watering frequency. And in the future, gradually reduce when female flowers appear. It is believed that after the formation of the fruits, the supply of moisture should be stopped. However, if you suddenly stop regular watering, the watermelons will not be able to gain sugar, which will affect the taste. Therefore, moisture is stopped 4 days before harvesting.

Water your watermelons abundantly, do not overdo it - waterlogged soil can become a breeding ground for diseases.

One or two days after watering, you need to loosen the soil, while removing the grown weeds. This should be done carefully so as not to touch the roots of watermelons, which, as has been noted more than once, do not tolerate damage well. As it grows, loosening is stopped, because the weed no longer has any tangible harm to the plants.

When the lashes increase in size and lengthen, their bases are sprinkled to form additional roots, which improves nutrition. If the formed fruits lie on the ground, a dense material is placed under them, since the berry rots, in contact with the soil.

If the watermelon fruit comes into contact with the soil, boards, plastic, and a special film are placed under it to avoid possible rotting

Fertilization

The planted watermelons are fed twice a season.

1. The first time is two weeks after disembarkation, when the whips begin to form. To do this, use either ammonium nitrate (20 g per bucket of water), or mullein solution (in a ratio of 1 to 10), or a solution of bird droppings (in a ratio of 1 to 20).
2. The second feeding is carried out at the time of tying the buds. For one plant, 4 g of calcium chloride, 4 g of ammonium nitrate and 6 g of superphosphate fertilizer are applied.

Diseases: prevention, treatment

Watermelon, like any living organism, is susceptible to disease. Let's dwell on the most common of them.

Table: diseases of watermelons

Photo gallery: signs of watermelon diseases

Gardeners reviews

Watermelon is both a pleasant delicacy and a berry useful for the body, it is able to quench both hunger and thirst, and become a prophylactic agent in the fight against anemia and high cholesterol. It has diuretic and choleretic properties, anti-stress effect, enhances immunity. Fruit rinds are also used for food, from which unusual and tasty jam is prepared. And as practice shows, growing a watermelon on your own is not such a difficult thing. Even the climatic conditions of the middle zone, which differ from those in which the plant has been cultivated from time immemorial, are not an obstacle. If you have long wanted to try yourself in the role of a melon grower, but you did not dare in any way, then the time has come to do it!

Rate the article:

(2 votes, average: 4 out of 5)

Juicy sweet watermelons are always associated with summer and sun. The crackle of the striped peel under the edge of the knife, the characteristic aroma and the melting, refreshing pulp. What could be better than, forgetting about business for a while, enjoy a slice of ripe berries. Today, you can pamper yourself with watermelon at almost any time of the year. Supermarkets always have these giant berries, however, grown on the other side of the world or in a greenhouse.

The most delicious watermelon is the one that was saturated with the power of the sun and grew not under the film, but in the garden.

Many gardeners are wondering how to grow watermelons in the country? As of today, there are all the conditions for this. Thanks to the appearance of early varieties and hybrids, even residents of the Non-Black Earth Region can break their own melons and get a harvest of watermelons. How to grow watermelons outdoors? What kind of care does the culture require and when can the first fruits be harvested?

Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing

Of all the melons and gourds, watermelons have the most difficult seeds to germinate. In order for the seedlings to be friendly and strong, the seeds are first immersed in salt water. This will allow to identify and remove not viable, light specimens, but those that are heavier and sunk to the bottom can be used for sowing.

However, this is not enough. Shortly before planting, the seeds are heated for 3-4 hours at temperatures up to 55 ° C or left in the sun for a week in order to disinfect the seed in this way. Then the seeds are soaked in warm water for a day, which will accelerate germination and give the sprouts additional strength.

Planting watermelon seeds

In the Black Earth and southern regions, where watermelons are grown in summer cottages and industrial melons, the culture can be planted in open ground with seeds.

The best time for this is when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ° C. For sandy and other types of light loose soils, the seeding depth of watermelon seeds is 4–8 centimeters, but if the soil is heavy, dense, it is more correct to deepen the seeds by no more than 4–6 cm. And the smaller the seeds, the smaller the grooves for planting them are made. ...

Melons and gourds, especially during the ripening period, require good nutrition, which is provided by the main root system and small roots formed on separate lashes. Therefore, when growing watermelons in open ground, a rather large area is allocated for planting, the size of which depends both on the type of soil and on the variety, as well as on the expected load on the plant.

• If watermelons are sown in rows, gaps of 0.7 to 1.5 meters are left between the bushes. The row spacing in this case should be at least one and a half meters.
• When using a square planting scheme, a distance of 0.7 to 2.1 meters is laid between the plants.

The main thing is that as the planting grows, they do not turn out to be overly thickened, and all the berries that have set have enough light, moisture and nutrition.

Seedling method of growing watermelon

In the conditions of the middle zone, for example, in non-chernozem areas, as well as during a cold, prolonged spring in the southern regions, it is possible to grow watermelons in the open field through seedlings. From the moment of sowing to transplanting young plants into the ground, it usually takes from 25 to 35 days. It is most convenient for sowing to use peat pots with a diameter of about 10 cm, which are filled with a mixture of equal amounts:

• humus;
• turf land;
• peat.

The seeds are buried in moist soil 3-4 centimeters, after which the pots are left under a film until germination at a temperature not lower than 20-25 ° C, only at night the temperature background can drop to 18 ° C.

When sprouts appear above the ground level, the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. At a temperature of about 17-18 ° C, watermelon seedlings will have to stay for 3 to 4 days, which will allow you to get strong sprouts and prevent them from stretching. Subsequently, temperatures around 22–25 ° C are returned again during the daytime.

Regular watering is carried out with warm water, trying not to get on the leaf plates. A week after sprouting, the seedlings under the roots are fed with a fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Since melons are warm and light-loving crops, well-lit warm rooms or greenhouses are chosen for young watermelon plants, but a week before the seedlings get into the open ground, they must be hardened. To do this, the seedling boxes are exposed to the open air, first for 2–4 hours, then the time is gradually increased. In early June or at the end of May, watermelon seedlings are planted in the beds.

Choosing a site and soil for growing watermelon in the country

To get a good harvest from a watermelon grown in the country, it is important that the site intended for planting:

• was well lit;
• closed from cold winds;
• provided plants with proper nutrition.

The best soil for melons is light, fertile and loose. It is optimal if on summer cottages there is sandy and sandy loam soil, which has been enriched with humus or other well-rotted organic matter since autumn.

The best precursors for watermelons are legumes, crucifers, including cabbage and radish, as well as potatoes and tomatoes.

Before growing watermelons outdoors, care should be taken to prepare the ridges and fertilize the soil. Per meter of the garden bed in the spring they bring:

• 24–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 40–45 grams of superphosphate;
• 15-25 grams of potash fertilizers.

1-2 plants are planted in pre-moistened wells, located at intervals of 1-1.5 meters, or one peat cup is immersed so that cotyledon leaves remain above the soil level. After planting, the garden bed is mulched with sand, and the plants are sheltered from the sun. They act in a similar way when seedlings appear if watermelons are grown from seeds in the open field.

In the first week, while the acclimatization process is in progress, watermelons are watered with warm water.

Features of watering and feeding watermelons

It is impossible to grow a watermelon in the country without providing the plant with proper watering and feeding. Without water, it is difficult to talk about the juiciness of sweet berries, but you do not need to overdo it here, otherwise you will not achieve such a beloved sugar pulp. Before the flowers appear, watermelons are watered sparingly, and when the ovary appears on the lashes, more generously.

At a summer cottage for watermelons, it is convenient to use drip irrigation systems, with which you can also carry out regular feeding of plants.

When growing watermelons in the country, you need to remember that the culture loves rare, but abundant watering, which is extremely necessary in the hot season, in conditions of a shortage of natural moisture. A comfortable soil moisture level for watermelons is 85%. On sandy soil that does not retain moisture well, the beds are watered more often, and on black soil and clay soils - less often. When the berries are poured and they begin to ripen, watering is carried out less often, and then completely stopped.

The feeding schedule for watermelons grown in the country includes three procedures, during each of which approximately 2 liters of liquid fertilizers should be per plant. A week after planting in the ground, watermelons are watered with a solution of 10 liters of water:

• 40-50 grams of superphosphate;
• 30–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 15-20 grams of potassium salts.

When active growth of lashes begins on the plants, the watermelons should receive a second feeding with half the concentration of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. With the beginning of the formation of the ovaries, one more top dressing is carried out, introducing a solution under the watermelons growing in the country based on:

• 20-25 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 10 grams of superphosphate;
• 35 grams of potassium salts.

The nutrient mixture is introduced into furrows arranged in advance at a distance of 15–20 cm from the bushes.

A decrease in the proportion of nitrogen fertilizers is associated with the possibility of accumulation of nitrates in the pulp of berries. Also, this measure will push the plants not to gain green mass, but to ripen.

Caring for watermelons grown in the country

Caring for watermelons growing in the open field consists of:

• in regular loosening of the soil under the plants;
• in watering and feeding melons and gourds;
• in the removal of weeds;
• in the fight against plant pests and diseases;
• in the protection of lashes and ovaries from freezing.

The soil under the plants is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, not only after planting, but also after watering and rains, until the lashes and foliage cover the spaces between the individual bushes.

To protect the ovaries and shoots from the wind, it is useful to fasten the lashes to the ground with wire pins or sprinkle sections of the stem with moist soil.

If there is a risk of moisture stagnation or insufficient light in the area where watermelons grow, trellises are built for the plants and, at the beginning of the growth of the lashes, the shoots are transferred from the ground to strong vertical supports. The same technique is useful if there is not enough space in the country for growing watermelons using the traditional melon method. As they grow, the shoots are spread over a trellis or laid out on the ground so that one whip does not obscure the other.

If a watermelon is grown on a trellis in the country, it is recommended to leave only one main lash, on which, after flowering, depending on the variety and climate, from 3 to 6 fruits should be tied. The rest of the shoots are pinched in the early stages of growth, and then, when the ovary reaches the size of a five-ruble coin, the top of the fruiting stem is removed.

When growing watermelons in the open field by the melon method, pinch all the shoots after 3–6 ovaries, remove the stems that appear from the axils of the leaves and female flowers.

It is interesting that the trimmed side lashes can be rooted and also obtained from them, albeit a late and small, but high-quality harvest.

If there is a threat of frost in the area where watermelons grow, the plants are protected with cardboard or special covering material.

When to harvest watermelons?

Ripening tomatoes are easily recognizable by their discoloration. With cucumbers and zucchini - the main thing is not to linger with the collection, so that the vegetables do not lose their juiciness and useful properties. And when to pick watermelons, how to distinguish a ripe berry from one that still needs to warm the sides in the sun?

The earliest ripening varieties of watermelons in the central part of Russia can only yield a harvest by mid-August. At the same time, mass harvesting at the summer cottage is not carried out, except for cases when the berries on the melon are threatened with frost. While the warm season lasts, the ripe watermelons are cut from the lashes:

• with a glossy dense bark;
• with a deaf, audible sound when tapped;
• with a smooth peduncle without hairs inherent in the green ovary;
• with dry bracts and whiskers at the base of the leaf.

All these signs of ripeness must be considered in aggregate and only then are watermelons harvested, otherwise it is possible that the cut berry will be unripe.

However, when watermelons are used for storage or transportation, it is best to take the berries a few days before they are fully ripe. Such watermelons, being in a dry warm room, can ripen without losing any useful properties, or taste and aroma. But only watermelons harvested in a fully ripe state are suitable for obtaining seeds.

Growing watermelons in the middle lane - video

The most delicious watermelons grow in hot countries and in the very south of Russia, but they learned to get good harvests even in the middle lane, in particular, in the Moscow region. True, direct sowing of seeds in open ground can only be achieved in the most favorable years, therefore, seedlings are usually prepared in advance. Often the use of greenhouses helps in the cultivation of watermelons.

The best varieties of watermelons for the middle strip

Watermelon varieties are conventionally divided into early ripening, mid-ripening and late. Growing late-ripening varieties (such as Spring, Ikar, Holodok, etc.) in the middle lane is out of the question, mid-season varieties can be grown only in a greenhouse, and you can try to plant early ripening watermelons in unprotected soil.

Open ground varieties

In the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation, there are not so many varieties of watermelon recommended for the Central Region, but enthusiastic gardeners grow at least two dozen.The most popular are:

• Ogonyok is an early-ripening variety known to most summer residents, has been grown for several decades. Fruits are small (about 2 kg), with small seeds, tender pulp, excellent taste. The bark is thin, dark green in color, the stripes are weakly visible.The fire is easily recognizable and extremely popular.
• Suga Baby (aka Sugar Baby). In the State Register there is an entry about the recommendation for planting in the Central Black Earth Region, but it is successfully ripening and a little further north. Cold-hardy, ultra-early ripening, bears fruit with small berries, weighing up to 1 kg, the color usual for most watermelons. The taste is excellent, the harvest is well transported.Sugar baby is one of the first to keep up
• Trophy F1 ripens in no more than 68 days, the fruits are broad-elliptical, smooth, weighing 8–11 kg. The color is yellowish-green with wide stripes, the taste of the pulp is excellent. Watermelons of this hybrid are perfectly transported and stored for 1.5 months, the yield is high.Trophy is one of the giants among the early varieties

You can also pay attention to the varieties Victoria and Skorik.

Greenhouse varieties

Varieties grown in unprotected ground are also suitable for the greenhouse. Also in it you can have time to get the fruits of mid-season varieties, for example, it can be a Lezhebok with fruits weighing up to 5 kg or a large-fruited (up to 10 kg) Ataman. However, when planting in a greenhouse, they often give preference to small-fruited options, which are guaranteed to give high yields. Ripening periods are also chosen as short as possible. Among the popular varieties and hybrids are:

• Crimson Sweet is a fairly new variety that came from France. One of the examples of large-fruited varieties, but when grown in greenhouse, it rarely fails gardeners. Fruits of classic watermelon color, crunchy flesh, very sweet. They are well stored and transported, the variety is disease-resistant, easily tolerates extreme drought.Crimson Sweet is a Frenchman who has taken root in our beds
• The peasant is an early ripe variety that bears fruit of medium size (weighing about 3 kg), light green in color with dark green stripes. Medium density pulp, excellent taste. The fruits are stored for about a month.
• Joy F1 - in the shape and color of fruits, as well as consumer properties, it resembles a Peasant, but the fruits are somewhat smaller, and the pulp is not bright red, but dark pink. It is successfully grown in the Central region, not only in greenhouses, but also in the open field.Joy - a watermelon that grows well both in a greenhouse and on a melon

You can also choose varieties and hybrids for planting in a greenhouse:

• Ultra early,
• Cinderella,
• Krimstar F1,
• A gift to the north F1.

Growing conditions

Growing watermelons is not easy in temperate climates. The area of ​​their trouble-free cultivation begins approximately from the southern regions of the Saratov region (Rovno watermelons are well known) or Volgograd (Kamyshinsky). After all, the homeland of watermelon is Africa. Therefore, it becomes clear that this culture does not need moisture as much as high temperature: it is a heat-resistant plant. In addition, the melon must be constantly illuminated by the sun: it is impossible to grow sweet berries even in partial shade.

At the same time, a watermelon normally tolerates a cold snap, if it did not come to frost and did not drag on for a long time. He is picky about the composition of the soil. It feels best on light sandy loam with a pH of 6.5–7, and responds well to organic fertilizers. The roots of a watermelon penetrate deeply and extract their own moisture, but with additional artificial irrigation during the development of the plant and the growth of fruits, the yield increases significantly.

A watermelon has small-looking bushes, but a significant nutritional area is required, and this must be taken into account when choosing a garden. Dense plantings are unacceptable; there must be at least 70 cm between the plants.It is optimal if in the middle lane it grows on a small hill: excess water accumulating in the lowlands has a detrimental effect on the roots, causing, especially in cool weather, their decay. Watermelons need a lot of space

If the soil on the site is clay, it is advisable to add sand during the autumn digging, and if it is too acidic - chalk or dolomite flour. The amount depends on the severity of the situation: there can be up to a bucket of sand per 1 m2, chalk - one or two handfuls. It is best to use a bucket of good compost or humus as fertilizer, not fresh manure. In the spring, during the final preparation of the beds with a cultivator or a rake, add wood ash and 30–40 g of superphosphate per 1 m2 per liter can. Watermelon also reacts well to small additions of magnesium fertilizers (about 5 g per 1 m2).

It is better if the watermelon is planted after cabbage, peas, onions or garlic, you should not plant it after nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants). For more than two seasons in a row, they try not to place watermelons in one place.

Growing seedlings

It is not difficult to grow watermelon seedlings at home, although many people prefer to do it in greenhouses or light greenhouses: the apartment does not always have enough light and the required temperature.

Sowing dates

Transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground or a greenhouse will take place about 30–35 days after sowing. In the middle lane, planting in unprotected soil before the beginning of summer is fraught with risk: recurrent night frosts are still possible, which means that you need to sow seeds in the last days of April or early May.

The timing of planting in a greenhouse depends on its quality, but in any case, in mid-May it is already possible to do this, which means that the time for sowing seeds in pots is early or mid-April. When calculating the timing, it is necessary to take into account the fact that unprepared seeds can germinate for 10-12 days; if properly prepared, emergence of seedlings can be expected earlier. Prepared watermelon seeds will sprout faster

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Sowing watermelons in a common box is not worth it: they are extremely painful to transplant, so you must immediately find separate pots with a capacity of 250 ml and a depth of 10 cm.It is better if these are reusable cups with a retractable bottom, peat pots are optimal.

For growing several bushes, it is easier to buy ready-made soil in the store, it will not be more expensive than cooking it yourself, but more reliable.

The best composition consists of equal proportions of humus, sand, peat and good fertile soil. If there is no peat, you can replace it with scalded sawdust. If the components are of doubtful origin, after mixing, the soil should be shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and this should be done a few days before sowing. When placing the soil in pots, it is worth pouring a centimeter layer of coarse clean sand on the bottom. For watermelon seedlings, choose the largest peat pots available.

Watermelon seeds remain viable for a long time, up to 8 years, so you do not need to buy them annually, but it is worth preparing for sowing:

1. The largest seeds are selected first.
2. Then they are disinfected by soaking for 20-30 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate.
3. After washing with clean water, they are sent for a day in a wet cloth to the refrigerator: in the middle lane, hardening will not hurt, especially when grown in open ground.

It is even better if, before hardening, the seeds are slightly baked: with protruding tails, they are kept in the refrigerator for 5 hours.

If the seeds are reliable, you can not do all this, but to accelerate germination, just soak them for several hours in warm water is worth it. To be honest, for more than thirty years of gardening life I have never done anything with the seeds, they germinated dry and gave good yields.

Seeding Algorithm:

1. Before sowing, the soil in the pots is slightly moistened if it has dried out. You can water it then, after sowing.Before sowing watermelon seeds, moisten the earth
2. Watermelon seeds are sown to a depth of 2.5–3 cm, placing 2 pieces in a pot (excess shoots are then removed).Watermelon seeds are sown to a depth of 2.5-3 cm
3. Watering crops with warm water, sprinkle the soil with clean dry sand with a layer of several millimeters.
4. To create a greenhouse effect, the pots are covered with glass and placed in a warm place. Before germination, it is advisable to maintain the temperature at least 25 ° C (although the seeds will sprout in a colder atmosphere, only later).
5. Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, without hesitation, the pots should be placed on a cool, lighted windowsill: in the first 3-4 days, the seedlings should not be allowed to stretch, and in the warmth they will do it instantly. Further on, the best temperature is around 22 ° C during the day and 18 ° C at night.To prevent watermelon seedlings from stretching, in the first 3-4 days the plants must be kept in a cool place

Seedling care

In addition to maintaining the required temperature, it is important to monitor the lighting: daylight hours should last at least 12 hours. If the window sill faces north, it is advisable to equip it with lighting, turn it on in the morning and evening. Watering is needed moderate, warm water, at the root.

Picking watermelons is unacceptable: after damage to the central root, the seedlings may not die, but they will no longer give good fruits. Therefore, any transplant is highly undesirable and should be carried out only if necessary with extreme precautions.

In 8-10 days after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings can be slightly fed with a solution of any complex fertilizer (strictly according to the instructions on the package) or with an infusion of ash. A week before transplanting the seedlings into the garden, the seedlings are tempered by periodically opening windows or taking the pots outside. Good seedlings, ready to plant, are viable bushes with a short, thick stem and 4–5 large leaves. Good seedlings have very large and bright leaves.

Transplanting seedlings into the ground

Planting seedlings in unprotected soil is possible when warm weather is established. During the day it should be at least 15–20оС, and at night - not lower than 8оС. However, if such indicators in the middle lane are observed in early May, one should not think that this is summer and plant watermelons. The cold weather will return, and it is better to wait until the beginning of June. In extreme cases, you can land, but be ready to cover the landings with at least a spanbond. The plastic wrap is only good for a very short time.

In unprotected ground, watermelons are planted more freely. On a real melon for some varieties, from 1.5 to 3 m is left between plants.In summer cottages of the middle lane, when planting early-maturing varieties, this is unnecessary, the optimal scheme here is 100 x 70 cm, in extreme cases - 70 x 50 cm. Planting seedlings for an experienced the gardener is accustomed to:

1. In the designated places, holes are dug somewhat deeper than the size of the seedling pots.
2. A handful of ash is brought into the holes, mixed with the ground and watered a little.The holes are made at a fair distance from each other.
3. Very carefully removing the seedlings from the pots (if they are not peaty), they plant it slightly deepening. Peat pots are planted with seedlings.All voids between the roots and the rest of the bed must be carefully filled with soil.
4. The voids are covered with soil, watered with warm water under the root, mulched with clean sand.Watering must be done very carefully, and then fix the plant.

Video: planting watermelon seedlings in the garden

Growing watermelons by sowing seeds in a garden bed

Watermelon seeds germinate at a minimum temperature of 16 ° C, plants die at 0 ° C. Therefore, when planning sowing seeds in unprotected soil or in a greenhouse bed, you need to focus on these indicators. Sowing in open ground and in a greenhouse, as well as further care of plants, in both of these cases are slightly different.

Sowing in open ground

When choosing a sowing date, it is worth remembering that not only air should warm up well: at soil temperatures below 14 ° C, seeds germinate with great difficulty. Therefore, in the middle lane, sowing seeds, although it is possible a little earlier than planting seedlings, is carried out no earlier than May 25. As long as they naklyuyutsya and ascend, the threat of frost will pass. But it is not worth sowing germinated seeds in the garden at these times: there is a high probability of their death in the event of a sudden cold snap. It is better to use dry seeds, and hatched seeds not earlier than summer.

The beds are prepared in the same way as for planting seedlings; holes are prepared in the same places, applying local fertilizers. Only the holes with ash are buried back, and the seeds are buried in them to a depth of about 3 cm. As in growing seedlings, 2-3 seeds should be placed side by side. Excess plants are removed 5–6 days after germination.

Often in the middle lane, a "smart bed" is set up: when digging, they introduce increased doses of organic matter, and then cover it with a dark film, as a result of which the earth quickly warms up in the sun. In the right places, cuts are made in the film, where the seeds are sown (you can also plant seedlings). The film is left for the whole season, and at first they also cover the bed with spunbond.

Video: growing watermelons grafted on a pumpkin in a smart garden

Sowing in a greenhouse

The beds in the greenhouse are prepared long before the sowing of watermelons. And this applies not only to the unconditional need for the autumn digging of the land with fertilizers and the harvesting of all plant residues. Sometimes a complete soil replacement is also required if any diseases raged in the greenhouse.

It is recommended to sow any greens or radishes in the greenhouse before watermelons. They will almost have time to ripen by mid-May, when it will be necessary to sow watermelons. If sowing is planned for an earlier date, then even in the greenhouse, covering materials should be prepared just in case.

The sowing pattern in the greenhouse is slightly more compacted, the distance between plants is greater than 50 cm, which is rarely allowed here. The earliest varieties of watermelon, many gardeners even sow two per hole, then directing the lashes of neighboring bushes in different directions. Because of the tightness, they often equip trellises in the greenhouse, raising the watermelon lashes above the ground and tying the shoots to the supports first, and then the emerging fruits.

The technique of sowing seeds in a greenhouse is no different from that in an open field.

Often, watermelon bushes alternate with melons or cucumbers. If the first option is absolutely logical, then with cucumbers the issue is controversial: they love moist air, and watermelons are used to growing in arid conditions. Nevertheless, such a joint planting is possible, but in the future, reasonable temperature and humidity control in the greenhouse will be required.

In a greenhouse, a watermelon is grown on a trellis

Planting care

Caring for melons is no more difficult than caring for any vegetables. True, the need to form bushes is also added to the usual work (watering, loosening, feeding). In the open field and in the greenhouse, the events are similar, the nuances are insignificant.

Outdoor watermelon care

Watermelon watering until fruit sets should be moderate, but the soil should always be slightly moist. Moisture is especially necessary during the period of intensive growth of the leaf mass. It is necessary to water in the evening with water heated in the sun, under the root. With the growth of fruits, watering is significantly reduced, and later stopped: during the ripening of the berries, the soil is even dried so that the watermelons gain more sugars. Until the leaves have grown, after watering, they loosen the soil, destroying the weeds.

The first feeding is carried out 1.5 weeks after planting the seedlings or 2-3 weeks after the emergence of seedlings. It is better to use organic matter and ash, in extreme cases - mineral fertilizers strictly according to the instructions. Then they are fed 1–2 more times, but without excess nitrogen, and with the beginning of the growth of the fruits, the feeding is stopped. For feeding watermelon, it is better to use organic matter, but mineral fertilizers are also suitable.

As the lashes grow, they are laid out evenly over the garden bed, trying not to disturb them once again.Planks are placed under the fruits to prevent possible rotting in case of inclement weather. Planks are placed under the watermelons to prevent decay

The formation of the bush is aimed at ensuring that it does not waste its energy on the growth of excessive green mass. The main part of the incoming nutrients should go to the formation and ripening of the crop. Extra ovaries are also removed, since even under the most optimal conditions, the plant will not be able to provide adequate nutrition for everything that has arisen. Shaping operations are carried out in sunny weather, so that the sections dry out immediately and cannot rot.

Pruning and rationing of the crop is especially important for large-fruited varieties.

There are several options for the formation of bushes, the choice depends on many factors. In some cases, they try to grow the crop on the central stem, removing side shoots to the maximum. In others, on the contrary, they almost immediately pinch the main shoot and grow fruits on the side ones. For different varieties, one or another approach is preferable. The simplest way is as follows:

• no more than six fruits are left on the bushes, cutting off the excess when they reach the size of a chicken egg;
• on each shoot, only one fruit is guaranteed to grow in the case of large-fruited varieties and two in the case of small-fruited;
• after the fruit has acquired the size of an average apple, no more than 4–5 leaves are left above it, the rest of the shoot is cut off.

Even after the formation of a bush during the pouring of fruits from the axils of the leaves, stepchildren still appear, they must be broken out right there, trying not to injure the whips by turning them over.

All unnecessary shoots must be broken out in time

Features of growing in a greenhouse

The main approaches to growing watermelons in a greenhouse are the same as outside. True, one should carefully monitor the humidity and temperature conditions: it does not rain in the greenhouse, and it can overheat without airing. But, besides the usual events, you have to pay attention to two more points.

• artificial pollination may be required. If the vents are mostly closed, there is no hope for insect pollination. The owner himself must arm himself with a brush and, taking pollen from the recently blossoming male flowers, carefully transfer it inside the female ones. Immediately after fertilization, fruit setting and their rapid growth begin, which can be helped by weekly feeding with small doses of complex fertilizers, or better - with liquid solutions of mullein or bird droppings;
• in the greenhouse, watermelons are usually grown vertically, forming bushes with a simultaneous garter to the supports. The fruits do not lie on the ground, but hang in the air, and upon reaching the critical mass, they can fall and break. Therefore, berries the size of a fist are placed in soft nets made of any durable material, where they will grow. So the fruits are evenly illuminated and gain more sugar. The nets are tied to the trellis.In nets, watermelons are illuminated from all sides

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests, with proper care, visit this melon crop very rarely. Summer residents sometimes do without even preventive treatments, although in large agricultural farms, of course, melon is sprayed a couple of times per season.

Most often, watermelons are affected by the following diseases:

• powdery mildew: manifests itself as white spots with fluff, which first form on the leaves, then move on to shoots and fruits. Leaves crumble, shoots die off, fruits rot. Risk factors are cold and waterlogging. With proper agricultural technology, the risk of infection is minimal, but in the event of a disease, the plant should be sprayed with the simplest fungicides, for example, Bordeaux liquid;Powdery mildew is hard not to recognize - the leaves are covered with a whitish coating
• anthracnose is a fungal disease, usually found in greenhouse cultivation. It manifests itself as brown spots of various shapes on all parts of the plant. On fruits, after the formation of spots, they turn into ulcers with a pinkish bloom.The disease is especially terrible in conditions of high humidity, therefore it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse more often. Control measures - as with powdery mildew;With anthracnose, the spots on the leaves are brownish
• Fusarium is another fungal disease that leads to plant wilting. It is transferred by non-disinfected seeds and soil, spreads quickly, and leads to the complete death of plantings. There are modern varieties that are resistant to this disease. In the initial stages, treatment is possible, for example, with Previkur;With fusarium, the whole bush withers
• mosaic disease is a viral disease that manifests itself in the appearance of spots of different shades, shapes and sizes on the leaves. The leaves dry up, the plant lags behind in development, the yield drops sharply. Full treatment is impossible, but in the early stages, the disease can be significantly inhibited by spraying with Karbofos.With mosaic, the spots have a variety of colors.

For the treatment of other diseases, which are even less common, the gardener's arsenal should contain the drugs Fundazol or Decis, but it is easier to prevent the disease by carefully observing all the rules of agricultural technology.

There are few pests in watermelon, most often it is visited by:

• melon aphid is a small insect that settles in whole colonies: first from the bottom of the leaves, then moves to the shoots and further. It sucks out the juices of the plant, sometimes even leading to its death. With timely detection, folk remedies help: infusions of mustard powder, tobacco dust. In advanced cases, it is necessary to spray with Iskra, Inta-Vir or similar strong insecticides;The ubiquitous aphid settles on leaves in whole colonies
• the spider mite manifests itself first on the underside of the leaves as small dark dots, rapidly growing. Then all parts of the plant are covered with cobwebs, dry up, and the plant dies. Prevention with infusions of garden plants is very effective, but if trouble overtakes, spraying with serious pesticides is required, for example, Aktofit or Aktellik;As a result of a spider mite attack, the plant becomes covered with cobwebs.
• the wireworm is the same pest that attacks potatoes. It bores the fruits, after which they rot. It appears especially often in acidic soils. The easiest way to set up bait traps against the wireworm is jars of vegetable pieces. Traps are periodically inspected, pests are destroyed. Nearby legumes or mustard leaves are well scared away by wireworms. In case of a mass invasion, it is necessary to use the preparations Grom-2, Provotox.The wireworm is known to any gardener.

Harvesting and storage

It is necessary to harvest the watermelon crop on time: overripe fruits are not stored, and unripe fruits are only suitable for pickling. The signs of ripeness are known to everyone, but often they do not work even in the hands of experienced melon growers: after all, until you cut a watermelon, you will not know exactly how ready it is.

During storage, watermelons almost do not ripen: only almost ready-made ones get a little sugar in a cut form.

Characteristic signs of ripeness of striped berries:

• the matte surface of the peel becomes shiny;
• the crust hardens, is not damaged by the nail;
• the stalk dries up;
• a yellow spot forms on the side touching the ground;
• when tapped, ripening watermelons make a sonorous sound.

The berries are cut with a pruner or a sharp knife, leaving the stalk up to 4–5 cm long. The fruits are taken to the storage site on a soft bedding, carefully, without blows. In the storage they are placed in one layer, from time to time they are examined. Optimal storage conditions are temperatures of about 7 ° C and relative humidity of 70–85%. The shelf life of even the stubborn varieties does not exceed 3 months.

Video: harvest of watermelons in the middle lane

The cultivation of watermelons in central Russia is a problem, but it is quite solvable. To do this, you need to choose the right variety, grow seedlings on time and plant them in the garden. In a greenhouse, a watermelon will definitely grow, but in natural light it will be much sweeter.But direct sowing of seeds in open ground in the middle lane is a lottery, the success of the event depends on how warm the summer turns out to be.

Rate the article:

(0 votes, average: 0 out of 5)