How to grow streptocarpus at home?

Streptocarpus belongs to perennial, herbaceous, abundantly flowering plants. He is a member of the Gesneriev family. The plant got its name from the fruit - a swirling pod. Translated from the ancient Greek language, it means "twisted fruit". In nature, there are about 140 kinds streptocarpus. They are found on mountain elephants and in tropical rainforests with high humidity. Their homeland is the island of Madagascar, South and Equatorial Africa, Southeast Asia.

There are streptocarpus, which are xerophytes. They grow in arid places, adapting to lack of water. There are forest flowers that grow in shady places near water bodies. Streptocarpus can be an annual, perennial, herbaceous and shrub plant.

They began to grow these lovely flowers in indoor conditions a long time ago. But, unfortunately, they never enjoyed much popularity. In our time, by the painstaking work of breeders, various hybrid forms of streptocarpus, distinguished by their special beauty, have been bred.

The color range of these amazing plants is diverse. Probably, you cannot find another plant with such an amazing palette of colors. There are streptocarpus with flowers of yellow, white, pink, red, purple, dark blue and even black. There are two-colored streptocarpus, as well as specimens with various patterns - specks, reticules, rays, dots. The shape of the petals is also different - rounded with a wavy edge or oval. Flowers, both simple and double, semi-double. Reach 2-9 cm in diameter. There are much more small flowers on the peduncle. The period of lithophyte flowering is quite long - from spring to late autumn. With the right lighting, the plant will bloom all year round. Streptocarpus does not need a rest period in the cold season.

The plant has elongated leaves that are collected in a basal rosette. The size of the leaves, depending on the species, is different. The leaves of miniature hybrid varieties are tiny. Some species have leaves 30 cm long. There are specimens with only one leaf. The most common leaf color is green. However, there are varieties with variegated foliage. The fruit is a pod. It contains seeds.

Streptocarpus is easier to care for than Saintpaulias. They can be grown on windowsills, balconies, patios and outdoor terraces. New offspring of this humble flower are easy to get. There are several ways to propagate a plant.

As a rule, streptocarpus are chosen by flower growers who live in small apartments. This plant does not require much space.

Streptocarpus is very popular in America. In our country, many flower growers are also interested in this flowering plant.

Home care for streptocarpus

Lighting

Streptocarpus is a light-loving plant. Both natural lighting and artificial lighting are suitable for him. He will feel most comfortable on the east and west windows. If the flower grows on the south window in the spring and summer, then there will be more trouble with it. In this case, it must be shaded with a light cloth so that it does not overheat. In winter, only southern windows are suitable for streptocarpus, as they prefer a long daylight hours, and in the autumn-winter period they need additional lighting.

Temperature

The plant adapts well to normal room temperature indoors. Streptocarpus grows well at temperatures of 20-25 degrees during the warm season. In winter, he will be comfortable at a lower temperature. But it shouldn't drop below 14 degrees. It should be remembered that graceful flowers do not tolerate heat, high temperatures are harmful to them. In summer, streptocarpus should be kept in a cool and well-ventilated area. He will also like the seat on the balcony.

Humidity

The humble flower prefers humidity in the range of 50-70%. If there are lower values, the plant will develop normally. Streptocarpus loves spraying in small sprays.

Watering

Streptocarpus does not tolerate hard water, therefore, soft, well-settled water is taken for irrigation. Water the plant along the edge of the pot. Excessive watering can harm the plant. It leads to decay of the roots. Hybrid varieties have a small leaf mass, so they do not evaporate much moisture. In winter, watering should be moderate. In summer and spring, it is watered as the soil dries up.

At the time of watering, the streptocarpus will indicate itself. If the soil is dry, the leaves of the plant fall down and wither. When watering, they are restored.

Fertilizers

All richly flowering plants deplete the soil too quickly, so they need to be fed regularly. During flowering, fertilizers are applied once a week.

Transfer

Streptocarpus has a fairly large surface system that quickly fills the pot. Small containers are not suitable for the plant. Preference should be given to low and wide plastic pots.When using clay pots, there is a high risk of damaging the roots of the plant when transplanting. So that water does not stagnate in the roots, good drainage is placed at the bottom of the container.

Despite the fact that streptocarpus are perennial plants, they live little. They lose their attractiveness already in the third year. If they grow in the form of a bush, they must be systematically updated, dividing them into parts.

The soil

The main requirement for the soil for growing streptocarpus is good air permeability. The plant grows best in porous soil, which allows moisture to pass through well. An earthen substrate for Saintpaulias with the addition of high-moor peat is suitable for graceful flowers.

You can also make your own potting mix. To do this, take deciduous humus, sand, bark and high moor peat. An earthen substrate made of equal parts of peat, perlite and vermiculite is quite suitable for streptocarpus. Some growers use a different mixture - deciduous soil, chopped sphagnum moss, vermiculite and peat.

Reproduction

There are several ways of reproduction of streptocarpus - by dividing the bush, leafy cuttings and seeds.

The easiest way to get a new plant is by dividing the bush. When the mother bush grows strongly, it is cut into several parts during transplantation. Thanks to one bush, you can get about five new streptocarpuses. In this case, the rooted bush begins to bloom quickly.

Quite often, amateur flower growers grow new varieties of streptocarpus thanks to leaf cuttings. This method is not entirely simple, but experienced flower growers manage to get more than 10 children from one leaf 5-6 cm in size.

The most suitable time for propagation by leafy cuttings is spring. The leaves root fairly well in water. However, there is a small caveat. The leaf stalk is short, so the cut fragment is slightly sharpened and only then placed in water. The stalk takes root well, but the leaf may rot.

For rooting, it is better to use a soil mixture for violets, diluted with peat and vermiculite. A substrate of peat and vermiculite is also suitable.

For rooting of leaf cuttings, ordinary plastic cups are used, the bottom of which is covered with a thin layer of foam as drainage. There must be a hole at the bottom of the container to drain the water. But it is more convenient to use food containers with lids for rooting.

For reproduction of the plant, you will need a 5-6 cm fragment of a leaf plate. Leaf veins are clearly visible on the lower part of the leaf. If you plant the entire leaf vertically, you can get only one baby. To get more children with a sharp and sterile knife, the sheet is cut into several fragments.

You can plant the two halves in slices into the substrate, or you can also separate the top of the leaf and plant it vertically.

Children will sprout from the cut transverse veins. To enhance the effect, the slices should be treated with a rooting stimulant (for example, root root).

To prevent the cuttings from drying out, they are placed in a mini-greenhouse. A plastic bag is placed on top of a plastic cup. You can simplify the task by using a plastic container with a lid that is closed and opened when ventilated when condensation forms on it.

Sometimes it seems that the leaf has wilted. Time will pass, it will take root and come to life. The rooting process takes quite a long time - about two months. In this case, drying out of the earthen substrate should be avoided. Excessive moisture can cause the leaf to rot. The optimum temperature for germination is 20-24 degrees.

Until the children grow up, it is not necessary to seat them. They are transplanted only when they stretch up to 2 cm.A plastic pot with a diameter of 7-9 cm is suitable for them.

Possible problems and difficulties

Sluggish leaves are the result of improper watering of streptocarpus. If they "hang", and the soil in the pot is wet, the roots have rotted and the plant will soon die.It can only be saved by transplanting and rooting leaf roots (to make them come to life, they are placed in water for a while).

If the leaves turn yellow, the plant is sunburned. Better to transplant it. Dry tips indicate dry indoor air or a cramped pot. When a "rusty" plaque appears, it is necessary to reduce watering and the amount of dressings.

If the plant does not bloom, it lacks light. We must not forget that the daylight hours of streptocarpus should last 12-14 hours. If there is not enough lighting, you need to put a lamp.

Streptocarpus, a representative of the Gesneriev family, is rapidly gaining popularity among flower growers. It blooms profusely and for a long time, the colors are bright, interesting. In its natural environment, it is distributed in the forested mountains of South Africa and on the island of Madagascar.

There are about 130 wild-growing streptocarpuses that are not particularly decorative, but they are actively used by breeders to develop new varieties and hybrids. Over the past few years, the number of hybrids has exceeded a thousand copies.

Description of streptocarpus

Streptocarpus has no stem. Its leaves are fleshy, long, covered with soft nap, gather in a large rosette. From almost every axil of the leaf, a peduncle grows, covered with many flowers. Elite varieties have about 80 flowers on one peduncle. After flowering, the fruit appears - a twisted box with small seeds.

How it blooms

Bell-shaped flowers, the color is varied: white, pink, lilac, purple, with stains, speckled, 2-3 shades can be combined. Usually the corolla is large, about 8 cm in diameter, but there are species covered with small white flowers. There is a regularity: the smaller the corolla, the more flowers. There are hybrid forms with double flowers.

Leaves can reach lengths of up to 50 cm, color from light green to dark, there are variegated.

Home care for streptocarpus

Streptocarpus growing and care at home photo

In order for the flowering of streptocarpus to be lush and the flower does not get sick, it is necessary to study the rules of care and adhere to them.

Air temperature

Streptocarpus loves warmth. The optimal air temperature for the plant will be 22-25 ° C. In winter, when the flower goes into a state of dormancy, it is recommended to lower the temperature to 14 ° C. The plant is difficult to tolerate extreme heat.

The plant does not tolerate drafts, but in the summer you can take it out on the balcony or put it on an open window, just cover the doors at night or take it indoors.

Lighting

Good lighting is also important. Light is needed diffused, the length of daylight hours should be 12-14 hours. In summer, expose to the western or eastern windows. On the north side, there will always be a lack of light, and on the south, protection from direct sunlight is necessary. Phytolamps can be used for illumination.

Watering

Watering also has its own specifics. It is absolutely impossible to fill in the plant. If you are absent or forgot to water streptocarpus, then after receiving moisture, it will recover. But if the soil is heavily waterlogged, the plant will get sick and may even die.

To make streptocarpus comfortable:

• The root system of streptocarpus is more developed in width, shallow. You should choose not a tall pot, but a wide bowl.
• Choose the right soil, it should be loose and light enough. You can take ordinary soil and add 1 part perlite, deep peat or sphagnum moss.
• Water in moderation. About once every two days will be enough. Use bottom watering through a sump, or apply water from the top, moving around the edge of the pot to keep water out of the leaves. Lime is harmful to the plant, therefore, for watering, use water that has settled at least during the day.
• You cannot spray the plant. To increase the level of air humidity, you can put an aquarium, a container with water or wet expanded clay near the plant.

To streptocarpus bloom

• To ensure abundant and long-lasting flowering, it is necessary to transplant streptocarpus every year into a new substrate.
• Large leaves need a lot of nutrition. In the periods between transplants, apply fertilizers containing potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus. Nitrogen promotes good leaf growth, phosphorus and potassium help ensure consistent flowering.

Reproduction of streptocarpus by dividing the bush

How to divide a streptocarpus bush photo

This method is suitable for mature, overgrown plants.

• Water the flower, carefully remove it from the pot, peel the roots and carefully divide the bush, being careful not to damage the small roots.
• When planting, the previous level is observed, the root collar is not buried so that the plant does not start to rot, and it is not overestimated so that it does not dry out.
• In order for the flower to take root well, after transplanting it can be covered with a transparent bag or a cap from a plastic bottle.

After a couple of months, young plants will already begin to bloom.

Reproduction of streptocarpus leaf

Reproduction of streptocarpus leaf photo

This method is quite simple. Cut off a leaf with a petiole and place it in water until roots appear. Can be planted directly into wet soil and covered with a plastic cup or bag.

How to cut a streptocarpus leaf for photo propagation

You can also root parts of the leaf. Cut the sheet across, dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, plant in a loose, damp substrate and cover with foil. The stalk should be placed with its lower part in the ground at an angle of 45 °.

Toaster propagation

The planted parts of the streptocarpus leaf sprouted photo

The method consists in cutting the leaf along the central vein, from both halves the vein is cut off. Sections also need to be dried and processed with charcoal chips. The pieces need to be planted in the ground with a cut downward, deepening by 0.5 cm - very similar to two toasts in a toaster, which is why the method was so called. After 1, 5 months, the sections will become overgrown with "babies", but they can be planted in 4 months.

How to plant streptocarpus children

• Grown up children need to be separated from the uterine leaf and seated separately.
• It is very important not to plant the baby immediately in a permanent pot: the streptocarpus will begin to increase the green mass and you will not see flowering.
• It is important to gradually transfer the flower from the smaller cup to the larger one until it is time to plant it in a permanent pot.

How to separate the babies from the uterine leaf, the video will tell:

Transplantation of streptocarpus babies on video:

Use a versatile substrate or soil mixture consisting of five parts peat, two parts perlite, and one part humus. Water gently until the soil is completely dry. Immediately you need to make top dressing with potassium and nitrogen, but in a lower concentration than stated in the instructions for use.

When a young plant is preparing to bloom for the first time, it is better to remove the buds so that the streptocarpus finally gets stronger. Then transplant it into a shallow pot about 11cm in diameter. Use a mixture of ordinary earth, perlite and peat.

Streptocarpus from seeds at home

Streptocarpus seeds photo

This method is only suitable for patient gardeners with certain skills. Considering that most of the ornamental streptocarpus are hybrids, their varietal characteristics are lost when propagated by seeds.

After flowering, seed pods 5-7 cm long appear on the plant. Collect and dry them thoroughly.

Streptocarpus from seeds photo of seedlings

• To germinate seeds, take low containers, place drainage on the bottom, fill the rest of the space with loose soil, you can mix it in half with perlite.
• Since the seeds are very small, it is enough to simply scatter them over the soil surface, then spray the crops, cover with a bag or glass, and grow at room temperature.
• When shoots appear, you need to ventilate the greenhouse so that drops of condensate do not fall on the shoots, the cover can be completely removed after 10 days.
• Water from a spray bottle, without moisture stagnation, provide good lighting, temperature within 22-25 ° C.
• Fortified plants dive in separate cups and continue leaving in the same mode.
• Expect flowering seedlings in 10 months.

Diseases and pests of the streptocarpus plant

Inspect the plant regularly to spot problems in time. Especially close attention is needed to the newly acquired flowers.

Actions upon detection of a disease:

• Isolate the diseased plant from the rest so that viruses and pests cannot move to healthy specimens.
• Damaged leaves, buds must be removed.
• If a spider mite and thrips are affected, the upper part of the plant must be treated with an insecticide.
• The defeat of gray mold and powdery mildew is treated with fungicides.
• In case of late blight or a virus (leaves will be covered with a mosaic of spots), the plant must be disposed of.

Additional tips for caring for streptocarpus:

• To try out the technology of care, first start 1-2 plants.
• Can be planted in transparent containers to make it easier to monitor the condition of the root system and the earthen ball.
• For beginner flower growers, it is better to start by caring for the plants obtained by dividing the bush.
• If you plant streptocarpus in a suitable pot, it will be compact in size and bloom abundantly.

Streptocarpus varieties with photos and names

The series of varieties "Bristol's" is very successful, flowering is especially long, even young "kids" bloom quickly.

Streptocarpus Bristol`s Petticoats photo

"Bristol's Petticoats" - large flowers with wavy edges are painted white and covered with a pink mesh.

Streptocarpus Streptocarpus Bristol's Pajama Party photo

"Bristol's Pajama Party" - gramophone flowers are painted pink with white stripes.

Streptocarpus Streptocarpus Salmon Sunset photo

"Salmon Sunset" - flowers are smaller, but there are a lot of them. They have a salmon tint.

Streptocarpus Blue bells photo

"Blue bells" - corolla with a diameter of about 10 cm. Color - beautiful blue with a lilac tint.

Streptocarpus Alissa Streptocarpus Alissa photo

"Alissa" - flowers of a bright lemon shade, they are large, abundant flowering.

The beauty and variety of varieties, rather simple care will help create a real riot of colors in your home.

In many houses, on the windowsill or in the greenhouse, a cute Streptocarpus from the Gesneriev family grows and pleases the eye. Its flowers can be both perennial and annual, the body of the flower can be both herbaceous and strong tough shrub. With its bright colors and mesmerizing leaves, it is gaining popularity among gardeners and ordinary flower lovers.

Note! If the plant is properly illuminated, it will bloom throughout the year.

The wrinkled leaves form a squat rosette from which long shoots grow, ending in pink, red and yellow flowers. The fruit of the plant is a kind of swirling pod, thanks to which the plant got its name, which means "swirling fruit" in ancient Greek. The seeds of Streptocarpus are stored there.

Streptocarpus home care

Streptocarpus is such a plant that loves to be paid attention to, consider this if you decide to buy a flower.

Well, now in more detail about the very care of streptocarpus.

Firstly, like all beautifully flowering plants, streptocarpus loves when it is warm in the room, however, it does not tolerate direct sunlight. For abundant flowering, it is necessary that it be light for at least 14 hours.

• The plant blooms from May to September-November, but if you give additional light in winter with daytime lamps, then flowering can continue all year round.
• For placement, place your streptocarpus on the east or west window.
• A huge variety of bright and beautiful representatives among flowers differs not only in their appearance, but also in their names.
• For example, the streptocarpus, which literally means "twisted box", which has recently pressed its neighbors, Saintpaulias and violets, on the windowsill.
• With this name, the plant is distinguished by its mesmerizing and bright appearance, especially during the flowering period, when you can see magnificent bunches of flowers of very diverse colors on the peduncles.

The Gesneriev family

Streptocarpus belongs to the Gesneriev family (as well as chrazotemis, episis, hirita and cytandra). This flower grows in tropical and subtropical climates - South Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Thailand. The plant prefers bright or slightly diffused lighting and is notable for its multiple flowering every year.

• The temperature of the content in the winter period should vary within 15-17 degrees, and in the spring-autumn period - 20-25 degrees.
• Moderate watering is preferred during the warm season and minimal in winter. Spraying the plant is undesirable, however, the humidity in the room where this flower is kept must be high enough.
• Top dressing must be carried out every 7-10 days, the transplant is carried out in the spring. Reproduction of streptocarpus is carried out by dividing, planting seeds, or using cuttings.
• The flowering of the plant is lush and long, sometimes reaching a whole six months.

Home care

With such exhaustive features, streptocarpus sometimes does not give the desired results in the form of its excellent flowering. What are the subtleties of the content of this exotic flower?

Watering the plant should be carried out regularly, not exceeding the flower rate, however, it is strictly not recommended to overdry the soil. With a lack of moisture, the leaves can become lethargic, losing their elasticity. Frequent inspections of the plant should be carried out, thereby controlling the supply of moisture, which the streptocarpus loves very much. Water for irrigation is pre-defended to a temperature slightly higher than room temperature.

The soil.

Streptocarpus and violets belong to the same family, therefore the choice of soil for flowers may be the same.

• However, when planting, it is desirable to produce a mixture based on high-moor peat (in order to avoid confusion, you should pay attention to its shade of "rust") and soil for violets (the main property of which is lightness and porosity).
• The ratio of such a mixture should be 2 to 1. Unfortunately, this mixture can also be distinguished by its fast drying.
• At the same time, it is recommended to carefully place the plant on the wick irrigation method, in which the presence of cold is excluded - the root system may begin to rot.

Moistening and spraying.

A special subtlety is air humidification, which should be high enough while preventing moisture from entering the plant leaves. There is a way out of this situation. Streptocarpus needs spraying, but it should be shallow and exclude the presence of direct sunlight.

Given the tropical origin of the flower, it is also recommended to rinse it a little under running water. After this procedure, it is dried in the shade.

Temperature.

• At a sufficiently high temperature of the content and accelerated drying of the soil, this plant also needs a sufficiently intensive air circulation.
• In this case, the exceptional feature of streptocarpus will help - the absence of fear of drafts.
• The flower grows remarkably near open windows with intensive ventilation, or in cool shaded places (naturally, the exception will be low temperatures and frosty air).
• Under appropriate conditions, during the summer, the plant can be kept outdoors.

Light is required by streptocarpus abundant and diffused, it is better to avoid direct sunlight - the plant can be burned, or the leaves can be dried and yellowed. Its most preferable placement is in the east or west sides of the apartment.

Top dressing of streptocarpus.

Feeding the flower is done every one and a half to two weeks, using fertilizer for flowering plants. The main tasks of feeding:

• Increased plant growth rate
• Acceleration of the approaching flowering period
• Strengthening the immune system of the flower, and therefore protecting it from parasites and diseases

Fertilizing streptocarpus, like watering, should be sensitive and careful. Dilution with water is carried out not according to the instructions, but half as much, thus overfeeding the plant can be avoided.

Reproduction and transplantation.

Streptocarpus tolerates transplantation processes very favorably, but this must be done only as it grows. When too many leaves appear, they are transplanted, while watering the plant for a month - not in a pan, but along the edge of the pot.

Reproduction of streptocarpus is a long process. The most reliable methods of plant propagation are cuttings and dividing the bush. And in experimental attempts to breed new varieties of this flower, distinguished by unpredictable colors, seeds are used. The peculiarity of streptocarpus also lies in the fact that the faster the stage of flowering of the daughter sprout begins, the more willingly this variety will bloom as an adult, mature plant.

Lighting

The second important condition is good illumination. Flowering requires 12-14 hours of daylight, but the light must be diffused. In the summer, western and eastern windows are well suited.

On the north side, the illumination will always be insufficient, and on the south, shading will be required to protect the delicate leaves from burns. In any situation phytolamps can create the necessary diffused light, then flowers can be placed even in the back of the room.

It is impossible to fill in streptocarpus. This can lead to the death of the plant.

The special specificity of streptocarpus is the correct soil moisture. If you forget to water the plant, it will quickly recover when it gets moisture.But if you flood streptocarpus, it will become seriously ill and may die.

To maintain optimal hydration levels, you need

• choose not a tall pot, but a fairly wide shallow bowl. The root system of streps is more developed in width, but shallow;
• choose the right soil mixture, achieving a sufficiently loose substrate. To do this, you can add 1 part of coarse-fiber peat, perlite or sphagnum moss to ordinary earth;
• provide moderate watering. Most likely, once every 2 days will be enough, but it is better to water it in a pan or along the edge of the pot so that water does not get into the leaves. The water should be settled and soft enough, lime is harmful to streptocarpus.

An appropriate addition to watering would be to increase the humidity near the flower, just not by spraying the leaves.

Temperature

The plant came to us from warm countries, but despite this, streptocarpus does not tolerate heat well. For its favorable development, 24C is enough. If the weather is too hot, then the humidity will have to be increased as well.

In winter, the plant rests, and it is desirable for it to provide cool conditions, but it should not be too cold, the normal temperature during the dormant period is considered to be 15-18C for ordinary varieties and 18-20C for hybrid ones.

• Watering streptocarpus and air humidity in the care
• Watering is the most difficult thing in the care of streptocarpus, and for beginners, the plant may die from improper watering, therefore, be very careful in this regard.
• It is better to water streptocarpus in a pan, you can also water it in the ground, but only along the edge of the pot.When watering, try to keep moisture out of the leaves, especially in the center of the outlet, in which case the plant may die.
• Water for irrigation is defended in advance, it is desirable that it be slightly warmer than room temperature.
• Always monitor the moisture content of the ground, try not to overflow the plant. Streptocarpus is afraid of excessive waterlogging and stagnation of water, this may cause decay of the root system. So, watering should be moderate, and it is worth watering only after the middle layer of soil begins to dry out, but you should not wait until the soil is completely dry.

Even the slightest stagnation of water should not be allowed, therefore, immediately drain the water from the sump.

As for the humidity of the air, it should be high, but at the same time it is impossible to spray the plant. To provide the plant with high humidity, place containers with water or wet expanded clay next to it.

Top dressing

With feeding, as well as with watering, you also need to be careful, despite the fact that streptocarpuses love to eat. In order not to overfeed the plant, dilute the fertilizer not as in the instructions, but half as much. For fertilizing, fertilizers are taken for flowering plants.

You can feed the plant every week, as a result, it will form more leaves, which has a beneficial effect on lush flowering.

Groot for streptocarpus

The soil should be light and porous so that air can freely penetrate into it and moisture is retained. Beginners in this regard can make mistakes by replanting the plant in too dense soil, as a result of which the plant dies.

For streptocarpus, you can purchase soil from a flower shop for violets and add some peat to it.

Reproduction and transplantation

• Despite the fact that the plant likes frequent transplants, it should still be done as it grows. When too many leaves have appeared, then you can transplant the plant into a larger pot.
• If you divided the plant during transplanting, then it can be planted in an old pot, but with new soil.
• After transplanting, for three weeks, the plant is watered not in a pan, but along the edge of the pot.
• Drainage must be placed on the bottom of the pot. Plants for planting are chosen not deep, but wide, so that the roots do not grow too much, which negatively affects flowering.
• In addition, in a high pot, the upper part dries quickly, and the lower part remains wet, with the next watering there is a risk of water stagnation, which causes rotting of the root system and the reproduction of pathogenic microflora.

Frequent transplantation for actively growing streptocarpus is a great blessing. These gourmets love fresh soil, so it is better to transplant 2 times from 9 to 10.5 and then 12, than from 9 at once to 12 once. We increase the diameter of the pot by 1-2 cm, no more. For miniature and semi-mini varieties, the final diameter of the pot is 10.5 cm, therefore, when transplanting, we increase it by 1 cm.For strong-growing horses, we increase it by 2 cm - and the final diameter is not limited, as long as the plant wants to grow in breadth. I have such a record holder - Blue Mars 4.5 years old - 22 cm pot. Justa - 17 cm, 3.5 years old. The rest are in 14.

But I transplant in a different way. I never share a bush.
According to my observations, the divisions then get sick for a long time and grow poorly. Those exhibition bushes that I divided could not be restored later (!) And had to be grown from the leaf again, all over again, 3 years to a full-fledged exhibition plant. And such children later even overtook their mummies.

We destroy everything

When transplanting, I crush everything that is crumbling. Gently, without damaging the roots. If there are many white fluffy young roots, a new pot is 2 cm larger. Even if there is already a large volume of the pot, but the plant "asks" (the soil dries up in less than a day, completely entwined with roots, an earthen lump, many young roots), we increase it to a larger one.Pour the soil from the bottom by a centimeter, put an earthen lump, add around the edges, crush it a little, do not water for a day. Then watering even a little less than before and in no case watering immediately on the new volume of the pot.

• If there are a lot of roots, but they are brown and, when pressed with a finger, break easily, like dust, the roots have died. This often comes from the bay. The roots also die inside the earthen coma from the old age of the substrate (more than 3 years), if the substrate is acidic inside.
• Then I carefully try to gut the old substrate from the center, along with the missing roots. The result is a hollow "pot" of roots, or a one-sided semicircle of roots, if the roots are missing from the old side of the rosette and in the center. I don’t crush or unweave young roots!
• I don't hurt at all. Then in the formed voids - a new substrate, arrange the young roots so that they are surrounded by a new substrate, move to the center.
• Evaluate the required volume of the pot - reduce, leave the same diameter or slightly increase - and plant. In this case, very careful watering 3 weeks after planting.

If the roots do not want to grow into the substrate, the problem is in the soil or care, watering. I crush everything unnecessary, crush the earthen lump with roots carefully, remove the old snake as much as possible without damaging the roots, reduce the pot, fresh soil, do not water for a day, then very careful and scanty watering, barely wet soil from above, prevent the soil from drying out and lagging behind the walls. Watering - such that it is humid only at the top, and inside, so that it remains dry, the water does not reach.

Drying out

Peat must not be allowed to dry out. Drying out - when the peat stops immediately absorbing water and will reject it, it will remain from the walls. In this case, you need to loosen it slightly, fill it up with fresh, and subsequently prevent a repetition of the picture. A barely wet substrate, even, constant, LIGHTLY moisture is an ideal environment for growing new, thick, fluffy roots, and immediately after transplanting, I create just such conditions for 3 weeks.

Let me remind you again, albeit off-topic: here are the stages of watered peat, which a skilled streps-lover must learn to distinguish:

• Overflow, bay - the peat is blackened, shiny and shiny from the absorbed water. Unacceptable
• Very strongly watered - dark brown color, water when watering was 50-70% of the volume of the pot. Highly undesirable
• Optimally watered- even moisture content of the soil, brown color, the napkin when blotted is only pointwise moistened.
• Perfect moisture - peat from above immediately absorbs water, the volume of water is 30% of the volume of the pot, water does not pour out of the lower holes (i.e. does not reach the bottom). After an hour, the peat brightens, moisture is evenly distributed over the pot, the peat does not stick together, it remains airy and slightly moistened. Ideal conditions for root growth.
• Easy drying - the napkin does not absorb water when blotted, but the peat is still slightly moistened, light brown in color. You need to moisten a little, you can use a spray bottle to maintain ideal moisture for growing roots. Do not water mature bushes yet.
• Drying - red peat, when watering easily and immediately absorbs water, does not reject it. An adult bush needs to be watered!
• Strong drying - peat rejects water, absorbs a little behind the walls only after a few minutes, up to half an hour. Highly undesirable! Gently loosen, add fresh between the walls, mix with a toothpick without injuring the roots.
• Drying too much, overdrying - peat rejects water and does not absorb even after half an hour, it is far behind the walls. Unacceptable!

Seed propagation

Streptocarpus reproduce in several ways: by seeds, cuttings, dividing the mother bush. When propagated by seeds, the seed capsule is cut from the plant and dried for two weeks.Please note that when propagating by seeds, you can get a plant with new varietal qualities that are completely different from the mother's.

The seeds are sown in shallow plastic boxes, in the bottom of which several holes are made. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the boxes, on which a special soil is laid out (a mixture of sand and peat). When everything is ready, you can start sowing seeds.

Seeds are sown at the end of January, although this can be done throughout the year. It is advisable to distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the earth; it is not necessary to sprinkle them with earth on top.

• When the seeds are planted, the box is covered with glass or oilcloth and placed in a warm, bright place. Periodically, the oilcloth is removed for airing and the moisture is wiped off.
• The seeds sprout amicably, after about 2 weeks, but the shelter is removed only 10 days after the shoots appear. However, this should be done gradually so that the seedlings get used to room temperature.
• When the seedlings are strong enough, you can start picking. Sometimes it happens that it is impossible to divide the seedlings, but it is a pity to throw them away. In this case, you can not separate them and put them together. As a result, you will end up with a bush with completely different colors.

Plants grown from seeds begin to bloom in 10-12 months.



Sheet cut

For this type of reproduction, an adult leaf is taken, but not yet old. Try to choose a leaf that has a lot of veins. Cut the piece of paper into several pieces.

• Remove the center vein completely with a sharp knife or scissors. So you get two from one fragment of the sheet.
• In a pot of soil, make a groove (the ground should be light) and place a piece of the leaf in it with the side that was attached to the removed vein. Place the leaf in the ground 0.5 cm and compact the earth around it.
• Somewhere in 2 months, children will begin to appear. And the more veins the leaf had, the more babies you get.
• Do not transplant babies right away, you need to wait about 4 months, and then plant them.

Streptocarpus reproduction by dividing the bush

This is the most common and easiest way to breed streptocarp. After a while, the bush begins to grow and several divisions appear.

First, the plant is watered, and then removed from the pot and divided with a knife or simply by hand. Each part should have several leaves and a thickened root.

After the plant has been divided, the cut site needs to be dried a little and sprinkled with charcoal. After that, the bushes are planted in new pots and covered with oilcloth, so that the plant takes root better.

The resulting new plant in this way blooms in 2-3 months.

Flower diseases

Streptocarpus, like many plants, are susceptible to various diseases. For example, a plant may become ill with any infectious disease, as a result of which its leaves begin to turn yellow, wither and dry out, flowering worsens and the plant may die. It is very important to notice the disease in the early stages, otherwise, it is quickly transmitted and you may lose all your plants.

• A fungal disease such as powdery mildew can appear on streptocarpus.
• When a disease appears on the leaves, stem and even flowers, a white bloom appears.
• Gradually, the affected part turns brown, dries up and dies off.
• Powdery mildew develops under unfavorable conditions: drafts, temperature drops, waterlogging of the soil and even excessive feeding.
• When the first signs of the disease are detected, the plant is sprayed with special solutions according to the instructions.

It happens that a plant has a gray rot. With this disease, the affected part is covered with a light brown bloom, brown sores appear, which grow in size. To avoid this disease, you should not spray the plant with water and create excessive moisture.

If a disease is detected, the affected areas are removed or cut out, and the plant is sprayed with a copper-soap solution.

Thrips likes to settle on streptocarpus. These insects spread very quickly. Unfortunately, the pest itself is quite difficult to detect; some signs indicate its appearance. Flowers fade too quickly, anthers turn brown and dry, pistils thicken at the base. On the flowers, you can see the crumbling pollen.

When a disease occurs, the plant is sprayed with special solutions according to the instructions.



Irrigation system

Yes, there was a problem with watering streptocarpus before, especially in winter, a little overflow - hello hot! In the summer, it is also cheerful, the leaves begin to dry out and become covered with a kind of rust, freaked out, thought pests. By the way, I saw the reviews that these were pests, But in the DFskom magazine there was an article by Danilina a couple of years ago, or not an article, but the answer to a question, where she explained that these withered edges of the leaves were a reaction to watering.

• Rummaged on the Dimetris website, everything is very cool about substrates. I noticed one detail, they have a lot of plants, by the way, I have never seen more beautiful streptocarpuses in any picture from the exhibition, neither on American ones, nor on any else, the best streptocarpuses in Pavel are still.
• Here they are on the glasses, he says that he is pouring and all the excess water is poured into this very glass, in general, they also stand on the glasses, but I released the wick so as not to think, the leaves - ah!
• Two-month-old babies are now standing in 8k, the leaves are 10-15 centimeters each, they gather side by side, they are of the same age, but due to the initial weakness, not on the wick, in semi-green conditions, the difference is colossal. Well, and of course, we must not forget about fertilizers.
• I like powdered AVA more and more. six months later, transfer to a larger pot with soil replacement. Now AVU was released with nitrogen content, i.e. no need to steam at all, long-lasting charm.

At the dacha - a favorite fertilizer, poured it in and for 3 years you don't think, only for perennials it should be granulated.

Yes, you need to be very careful when choosing a substrate for wick irrigation for streps, it should be just airy, more rippers, then acidification does not occur. And so ... well, you know, there are two twin brothers under the same lamp, in the same substrate, watered with the same syringe or pipette, you see, one fluffed up, the other bent, this does not happen with a wick.

Again, we must not forget about the winter period, the air in the apartments is dry, in addition to drawing out water by the plant, additional evaporation is intense, here, it is necessary to give mandatory drying, let him hang his ears slightly, just slightly, otherwise sometimes you can cross the border. Then pour some soil along the edge of the pot and add it to the glass. I usually give 3 days to dry in winter, sometimes more.

Watering children of streptocarpus:

The general principle is to moisturize only where the roots are. The newly planted baby, until the whole lump is braided by the roots, so that only one-third of the glass gets wet, the water is not topped up to the bottom! On practice :

• - Planting the baby "on the hill" (we knead the substrate with a teaspoon in a circle of the glass so that we get a slide and the baby on the top In our case, the slide will be 1-2 cm, miniature)
• - Immediately after transplanting, do not water for a day. During this time, all damaged roots will dry out, water and fertilizer from the soil will not get into the wounds, there will be no rot, the substrate will not cake and will not "strangle" the roots (streptocarpus like aerated fluffy substrate).
• - The next day we take a teaspoon and pour - 2 teaspoons along the perimeter of the walls of the glass, along the "ditch". Then the moisture will be distributed evenly and in exactly the right amount. The water will not reach the bottom, and this is the whole "trick", it should be so. Only 1/3 of the soil from above will get wet.

With this watering, the roots grow quickly, fatty and fluffy, the baby also does not "slow down" in growth.
An adult baby streptocarpus, whose roots completely braided the pot - 25 ml per 100g cup. The general principle is that the water is 2 times less than for the baby of Saintpaulia, for example. But still it is enough that the entire substrate is slightly moistened. It is better to water a little every day than a generous one every 3 days.

Adults, transplant and watering

When transplanting, be sure to observe 3 axioms:

• - The first and most important thing when transplanting is to increase the diameter of the pot by 1-2 cm, check with a ruler, and not by eye. This is a common truth, an axiom. Simple observance of these axioms will not give disappointments and problems.
• - high-quality soil based on 100% high-moor white peat without black lowland peat!
• - Do not water for 24 hours after transplanting.

Watering adult streptocarpus after transplant

We water recently transplanted plants with the same amount of water as before (when I was in a small one). NOT MORE, but maybe even less!

You need to notice how much water is optimal (in milliliters) for each diameter and for each plant. A common mistake - when watering, we give water to the diameter of the pot, as a result - the threat of a bay.

Newly transplanted plants should not be overdried.- because after drying, the old substrate with roots will not absorb water, the new one will absorb a little faster. You will get a "bag", where the roots inside are dry, and where the fresh earth is flooded, there is no air. When the roots completely absorb the substrate, overdrying will not be so scary (of course, if you do not "pour" out of fear immediately after overdrying, which usually happens).
Well, it's clear thatrecently transplanted plants cannot be watered generously or even water like adapted plants in the same pot.

Why do newly transplanted plants need to be watered carefully?

That layer of soil, which is not mastered by the roots, is prone to waterlogging and in the heat it seems that the soil dries quickly, as a result we water it more and more often - and it turns out that the fresh soil is too wet, “strangling” the roots.

• And the roots do not want to grow there, this time, and in a neglected case they even stop functioning, die off - and then the plant withers, "hangs its ears." Only one or two leaves can rot (the roots that fed this leaf are rotten, it happens, only a part dies off).
• And if the pot is still a little larger than needed, then in general to ruin the plant is a piece of cake. We increase the diameter of the pot by a centimeter or two. Then the layer of new soil is not so large, it dries out faster, and the roots will master it faster.
• If after a few days your streptocarpus has “wobbly ears” and the soil is not dry as gunpowder and the sun did not shine on the streptocarpus during the day and the heat under +30 (in this case it will recover during the night) - definitely the bay, even if you gave water little and it seemed to you that the situation was under control.



I flooded one comrade - I was hanging high, I was too lazy to shoot and guided by the leaves, it was hot, now the sun was drying very quickly (and they were sluggish from the first bay, and then I poured it again, well, that's it, there is no half root), now I am reanimating ... You need to look into each pot, touch the soil. And if you miss it, that's the result. And in 3 days it happened, even though the plant was not transplanted.

It's just that everything was drying up so quickly that I watered everyone in a row. A vivid example that watering should be individual, according to needs, and not "everyone in a row", even though I pour very little water when watering.

Some useful information on how to properly water streptocarpus.

• The most important rule is that the volume of the pot must strictly correspond to the volume of the root plant!
  It would seem that the topic is about watering, but it starts with pots ... But if you do not adhere to this rule and do not provide the plant with the correct place of residence, it is useless to look for any golden advice on watering and maintenance.
• Correct agricultural technology begins with little things, and if you omit one condition, violate another, give up on the third - there is nothing to wait for a miracle, no advice will help and will not do for you what is required as a given. The second rule is the composition of the substrate in which streptocarps grow: the soil should be based on white high peat, light, airy and of high quality.
• If a streptocarpus sits in a small pot and does not transplant on time, it of course dries up instantly. But - it's not just that: a plant that is not transplanted on time begins to starve, which immediately affects the foliage, it deteriorates, brightens, turns yellow. Top dressing in such cases is indispensable.

Restrictions

You cannot take a pot that is too large: if there is a lot of soil in the pot that has not been reclaimed by the roots, there will be waterlogging and a bay. As a result, diseases and death of the bush. Children of streptocarpus are especially susceptible to waterlogging, they should be given special attention when watering.

Also, recently transplanted bushes require special attention: they need to be watered less and less often so that new roots develop, overdrying is contraindicated for them.

• Ideally, watering is needed when the soil dries up completely, BUT does not have time to dry out. It's not scary if the leaves of streptocarpus hang a little, they will move away when they get drunk.
• On the vast fields of the Internet, advice often jumps to watering the plant only after it lowers its ears. Yes, streptocarpus can withstand short-term overdrying.
• But that doesn't mean they like her! I would not recommend overusing this all the time. The constant violation of the regime towards dryness will sooner or later have bad consequences.
• And you will puzzle over why the leaves are scary, why the plant does not bloom, why flowers are falling, why spots, dry tips, etc., etc.
• Excessive watering is also harmful, you do not need to pour so much that water in large quantities flows out from the bottom of the drainage holes.

The most favorable time for watering is morning and first half of the day. If it is raining outside the window, plus it is cool, and even high humidity, it is better to postpone watering. Or water quite a bit, if it is already impossible to postpone. For beginners to grow these beautiful plants, I would advise at first to establish an internal prohibition for themselves: not a step with water in their hands in the evening in their direction! It helps a lot to avoid many troubles. This is exactly the advice I have followed for a long time.

Hanging ears

Streptocarpus do not always have their ears drooping from lack of water. They behave in the same way when waterlogged, therefore, if the soil is wet, there is no need to water it under any circumstances.

If the ears are drooping, their turgor is not restored in all cases. There are a number of reasons this does not happen:

• - if the leaf is old: we look at the young leaves, if they are normal, then you can not focus on this. In this case, the old sheet can be simply cut off.
• - if the leaves of the bush have grown very long and huge: they can hang in case of insufficient roots. The evaporation area is large, more water evaporates from the foliage than the roots can collect. In such cases, the leaves can be cut to 1/3 of the length, the faded old leaves can be removed.
• - Overflow and loss of roots: the plant is urgently transplanted into a smaller pot in a slightly damp substrate. It is necessary to normalize watering, remove all old leaves and lower the temperature if it is too hot. The plant is transplanted to dry, that is, a semi-moist soil is taken and after planting the plant is not watered. You can put the plant in a greenhouse.
• - in case of heat: you need to lower the temperature, shade, you can spray the plants.Never water a lot at once! You need to solder the plants literally drop by drop.

In my conditions - streptocarpus grow on the northern windowsill, and children on the rack - I water the plants about every other day. But I try to check them often. The main thing is what I am guided by: if in doubt, it is better to postpone watering for the next day! And it is better to water the plants more often and little by little than rarely, but with all your heart!

Types and varieties

In indoor floriculture, wild species of streptocarpus are rare; growers prefer modern hybrids, of which there are more and more. But so that you have an idea of ​​what streptocarpus are in the wild, we will introduce you to some of their species. So:

Rocky streptocarpus (Streptocarpus saxorum),

much more demanding than other species, demanding on the temperature and humidity of the air, is known as a perennial plant, which has a woody base, twisted shoots at the ends and light green oval pubescent leaves of small size. Purple flowers, also medium-sized, bloom in summer and autumn.

Because of their resemblance to Saintpaulia, this species is called the fake African violet;

Streptocarpus wendlandii

• both beautiful and original in comparison with other species: it grows one very large leaf, sometimes reaching 90 cm in length.
• On the top, it is green with light veins, and the underside of the leaf plate is red-purple. The leaf is broadly oval, pubescent and wrinkled, like most streptocarpus.
• Violet-blue flowers up to 5 cm in diameter in the amount of 15-20 pieces form a loose raceme on a long peduncle. The peculiarity of the species is also that after flowering the plant dies, and reproduces exclusively by seed. Some of the natural species of streptocarpus, those with lodging stems, are grown by amateurs in home culture as ampelous plants. For example:

Streptocarpus Kirk (Streptocarpus kirkii)

- shoots 10-15 cm high, inflorescences-umbrellas of flowers of a light purple hue;

Streptocarpus stem-forming (Streptocarpus caulescens)

- on stems 40-60 cm tall, drooping pale blue flowers grow.

Streptocarpus royal (Streptocarpus rexii)

The progenitor of indoor streptocarpus is a species introduced to Europe at the beginning of the 19th century. It is called, orStreptocarpus Rex... It has long, up to 25 cm, pubescent leaves and bright purple flowers with purple stripes and strokes inside the throat. The breeders did not miss the opportunity to work with such an amazing natural material and created a whole complex of forms under the general name of hybrid streptocarpus. The first recognized cultivar "Constant Nymphs" was distinguished by bright blue flowers with a violet tint of a very large size - about 7 cm in diameter at the place of the bend of the petals.

And finally, we will present you several spectacular hybrid varieties of streptocarpus, the breeding of which, as you already understood, will not bother you:

• - Fashion Statement - simple large flowers, two upper petals are white, three lower ones are white with an ink-colored mesh, thickening in an even purple tone in the throat area;
• - Salmon Sunset - Simple, medium-sized flowers of pale salmon color, the lower part of the throat is yellow with a burgundy pattern in the shape of a maple leaf;
• - Blueberry Butterfly - medium-sized blue flowers with purple rays on the lower three leaves;
• - Texas Hot Chile Is a compact, slow-growing variety with very bright red flowers and a yellow eye.

Possible problems when growing streptocarpus

• Leaves wither - if the substrate is dry, then watering is necessary. If the leaves of the plant have withered, and the soil is wet, then this is a sign of root decay. Try replanting the plant.
• Yellowed leaves can indicate sunburn or nutritional deficiencies.
• Drying tips of the leaves are a sign of dry air in the room or the pot is already too small for the plant.

to the table of contents

Popular streptocarpus varieties and photo selection

You can create a real riot of colors in your home greenhouse using the popular varieties of streptocarpus.

The varieties of the "Bristol's" series, which are distinguished by especially long flowering, are successful. Even relatively young children bloom well. For example, Bristol's Petticoats has large white flowers with a wavy edge and a pink mesh all over the corolla.

• "Bristol's Pajama Party" - fancy pink with a white stripe - not flowers, but gramophones.
• "Salmon Sunset" has smaller flowers, but blooms very profusely. The color of the corollas is delicate pink, almost salmon.
• "Blue bells" - these are corollas up to 10 cm of a beautiful blue color with a slight lilac tint.
• "Alissa" - flowers of amazing bright yellow color, large, profuse flowering.

Most varieties have a contrastingly colored throat, which, with a general variety of colors, allows you to create a real Garden of Eden on your windowsill.

If you see this unusually beautiful flower with a difficult to pronounce name for the first time, you get the impression that it is very demanding, like many flowering plants. This is a misconception. Growing and caring for streptocarpus (or simply straps - as many growers call them for short) does not cause much trouble, they are distinguished by their unpretentiousness, duration and abundance of flowering and a huge variety of colors and shapes.

What streptocarpus look like

The natural habitat of streptocarpus growth is tropical and subtropical forests of the South African mountain slopes. They are located quite high above sea level and are characterized by the absence of high temperatures. In nature, there are about 130 species of this plant. They are less decorative than hybrid varieties bred by breeders.



Left: Streptocarpus in its natural habitat. Right: Vendlen's streptocarpus bred by breeders, featuring one large leaf

Streptocarpus has no stem. The plant is a rosette of long fleshy leaves that are covered with soft villi. Peduncles grow from leaf axils. One peduncle can give several flowers, and elite varieties are distinguished by a huge (up to 100) number of flowers growing simultaneously on one bush. Streptocarpus flowers are shaped like bells with a diameter of 2 to 9 cm. Their color varies from white to purple, often different shades are combined in one flower, they can have specks and stains. Some hybrids have double leaves. The petals (there are always five of them) can be of various shapes with rounded or wavy edges.



Peduncles of streptocarpus are formed on the lower part of the leaf

The types of streps and leaves differ: their number, size and color. The fruit of the plant is a twisted seed capsule. Because of its shape, the flower got its name: streptocarpus is translated from Greek as a twisted box.



The size of the streptocarpus capsule depends on the number of seeds contained in it, as well as varietal characteristics

The first scientific description of streptocarpus was given by the English botanist James Bowie. He also provided the seeds of the plant to the London Botanical Gardens. It happened at the beginning of the 19th century.

In recent decades, streps has been rapidly gaining popularity among flower growers dealing with indoor plants. All of them note that the flower easily withstands various deviations from the recommended rules of care and blooms profusely.



In the last decade, hundreds of hybrid forms of streptocarpus have been bred

Varieties



Flower shades are amazing

There are many varieties of blooming miracle, the most popular and beautiful ones are suggested in the article.

Flower transplant

Why do amateur flower growers distinguish streptocarpus among the huge variety of indoor flowers? The fact is that this plant has a lot of advantages in comparison with other abundant flowering exotics:

• flower care is simple, easy to grow;
• it blooms magnificently from spring to November;
• using additional lighting, you can admire the flowering of streptocarpus in the winter;
• flower reproduction is not difficult;
• the plant is distinguished by a rich palette of colors and a variety of forms.

A distinctive feature of streps is a well-developed root system, which quickly fills the volume of the flower pot, so the plants require annual replanting. It is preferable to do this in February, before the active growth of the flower begins.

If you have just purchased a flower, and it is planted in a small container, then give it a couple of weeks to adapt to the new conditions, and then be sure to transplant, even if the streptocarpus blooms. It is recommended to cut off all peduncles before transplanting mercilessly so that the plant directs its forces to the development of the root system.

Landing capacity

A properly chosen planting capacity for streps is one of the ingredients for good growth and lush flowering. A feature of the plant is the fact that its ground part develops poorly until the roots master the earthen lump of the pot, so the size of the container should be directly related to the age of the streps, the size of the bush and the state of the root system. When choosing, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• preference should be given to wide and low plastic pots. The fact is that the flower has many thin roots that penetrate the pores of the walls of clay containers, therefore, during transplantation, the root system of the plant can be deeply damaged;
• you should not choose high and narrow containers - it is impossible to achieve uniform soil moisture in them. With a dry upper layer of soil, the lower one will still be moistened, as a result, the roots of the plant will suffer simultaneously from an excess and a lack of moisture;
• each next flower pot should be 1–2 cm wider and deeper than the previous one;
• for young plants, you need to choose pots no more than 5-6 cm in diameter, for growing straps, a container size of 6-8 cm is suitable, and for adult plants - 12-14 cm;
• the use of containers with a diameter of more than 18 cm is undesirable, since excess moisture will accumulate in them and root decay may occur;
• when choosing a color, opt for light-colored pots, which will prevent the root system from overheating in the summer heat.



For decor, unpresentable, but convenient planting containers can be placed in beautiful pots

For children of streptocarpus, it is recommended to choose transparent containers, for example, disposable cups. The roots of the plant are clearly visible in them, you can easily adjust the amount of water required for each flower.

Priming

The soil for a flower should have a loose structure, good air permeability and nutritional value. Store-bought soil for violets is quite suitable, which is recommended to be mixed with high-moor peat.



For transplanting streptocarpus, you can use the same soil as for violets

If you decide to prepare the substrate for the plant yourself, then you can use the following recipe:

• clay-sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• coarse river sand.

These ingredients should be used in a 2: 1: 1: 1 ratio. It is useful to add fine charcoal to the soil mixture. It will prevent moisture retention in the soil, help to avoid rotting of the root system.

Any soil used, including purchased one, should be steamed for an hour in the oven at 180 degrees, or at least spilled with boiling water. Such a procedure will disinfect the soil mixture, kill all pests and the vast majority of pathogens.

Transplant process

If the transplant of streptocarpus is carried out correctly and in a timely manner, then the flower responds very well to it, begins to grow actively, and blooms quickly. Some Internet sources recommend using the transshipment method when transplanting streptocarpus, that is, transplanting with a lump of earth. Considering that the root system of the flower develops quickly, the flower has already taken away all the nutrients from the old soil, it is more effective to completely replace the substrate when transplanting. Of course, some of the roots will be damaged in this case, but in most cases new roots grow without problems, thereby rejuvenating the root system and the plant itself.

The transplant process is carried out as follows:

1. At the bottom of the selected container, a drainage layer of expanded clay, pebbles, small clay shards is organized.
2. A prepared soil mixture is poured over the drainage layer. If the substrate is pre-moistened, then after transplanting the plant, watering is not performed.
3. Gently remove the streptocarpus from the old pot. Before this, the plant is not watered, so that it is better and easier to remove the old soil.

   Streptocarpus is transplanted as soon as its root system has fully mastered the space of the pot

4. If necessary, divide the bush into several divisions. The wounds are treated with activated charcoal, greenery and slightly dried.

   Streptocarpus outlets are small, so they are divided into two, maximum three parts

5. Remove the remnants of the old substrate from the roots. Damaged and too long roots are cut off.

   The roots are cleaned of old soil, if necessary, unweave them by hand

6. Damaged and too long roots are cut off.

   Even if the streptocarpus has no roots at all or they were damaged during division or transplantation, the flower will take root provided that a light, loose, breathable and slightly moist substrate is used.

7. The plant is lowered into a pot and sprinkled with soil mixture, making sure that the growing point remains above the surface of the substrate, and the young leaves are not buried in the ground.
8. Slightly squeeze the ground around the bush so that there are no voids left.
9. Cut off old, damaged leaves, peduncles. It is recommended to shorten large young leaves by half.

   To reduce evaporation, large leaves are recommended to be cut in half.

10. Surface watering is carried out if necessary.
11. Cover the flower with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse environment. They remove the shelter after the first new leaf appears.

The first two weeks after transplanting, the upper watering of the plant is used, and then the lower one: in the pan or through the wick.

Video: we transplant streptocarpus correctly

Support for peduncles

Depending on the variety, streptocarpus can have high (up to 25 cm) or short flowering stems. Most often they are strong, resilient and stable, capable of supporting the weight of large flowers and not falling. In some plant varieties, peduncles are weak, they hang in a cascade. If necessary, a support device should be inserted into a pot with such a plant already during transplantation. These can be simply self-made wooden sticks, to which the peduncle is neatly tied, or commercially available flower holders, including those for orchids.



In specialized stores, you can purchase plastic holders made in various colors.

Features of streptocarpus care

For all its unpretentiousness, the flower requires a certain amount of attention. He is a child of the tropics and subtropics, therefore he is thermophilic. A comfortable temperature for straps is the usual room temperature of + 20-25 degrees. The flower does not like heat and does not tolerate well. In winter, when the plant is dormant, the temperature can be reduced to +14 degrees.

Please note that the flower will not tolerate temperatures below +12.



Like many plants, streptocarpus does not like drafts.If in the summer you send a flower to a glazed loggia or balcony, then it is recommended to cover the sash of the windows at night

Good and correct lighting is an important condition for long and abundant flowering. Daylight hours for streps should be 12-14 hours, while the light falling on the plant should be diffused. In summer, it is better to send the pot to windows oriented to the west or east, since on the south side for streptocarpus it will be necessary to create shading from direct sunlight.



Streptocarpuses love soft, diffused light for 12-14 hours a day, especially during flowering

If a flower is placed on the north side of the house, then it will constantly experience a lack of illumination.

You can create comfortable lighting for the straps anywhere in the house, even in the back of the room, if you use special phytolamps for illumination. Traditional incandescent lamps are not suitable for this purpose, as they emit too much heat, they have poor light output and there is no ultraviolet radiation. Luminescent, that is, conventional energy-saving ones, are also not suitable, primarily due to the magnitude of the luminous flux. Even conventional LEDs have too little emission at the edges of the spectrum. The best option is special phyto-lamps for plant illumination. Their main drawback is their decent cost. But the advantages of special lamps are much more:

• they are economical;
• durable;
• safe;
• environmentally friendly;
• compact;
• have uniform radiation, which allows you to effectively focus the flow of light on the culture;
• contain in the light flux spectra useful for plants, which accelerate photosynthesis.



Phytolamps are special lamps for efficient and natural growth of any plants in low light conditions.

Watering

Very often, failures in growing streptocarpus are associated with improper soil moisture. If the plant is forgotten to water, then its leaves will quickly restore elasticity as soon as they receive moisture. True, the drooping flowers will have to be cut, they are lost. If the flower is excessively moisturized, then it can become seriously ill and even die. Most hybrids have few leaves, they evaporate little moisture, so the plants should be watered sparingly and only with settled water. Watering can be done in various ways:

• into the pallet;
• along the edge of the container so that water does not fall on the leaves;
• with a wick. This is the most effective watering for streps, as the constant capillary supply of moisture makes the soil stable, but moderately moist.



Plants prefer watering through drainage holes

The plant does not feel well with increased dryness of the air, therefore it is appropriate to periodically spray the area around the flower, but not the plant itself. Moisture entering the axils of the leaves can cause stains on the leaves, diseases and decay of the streps. You can put a container with water or moistened expanded clay next to the flower.

Food

In order for the plant to actively develop and bloom, you need to provide it with the necessary nutrition. The flower quickly assimilates the substrate in the planting container, selects all the nutrients from it. If you do not feed the straps, then it will start to wither and hurt. For normal growth and development, the culture needs nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed to build up green mass, and potassium and phosphorus are needed for stable and lush flowering.

Immediately after rooting, nitrogen fertilization is recommended. They can be carried out weekly until the appearance of peduncles. From ready-made preparations, you can use Florist-growth. Further, it is better to apply complex fertilizers for flowering indoor plants: Flower Waltz, Master, Kemira-Lux, etc. They will ensure the abundance of flowering, brightness and color saturation of flowers. The ideal option would be to alternate between different formulations.



Ready-made preparations contain a balanced set of nutrients necessary for the full growth and development of flower and ornamental plants

In order not to harm the plant, not to overfeed it, experienced florists advise using half the dosage for feeding, from that indicated on the package.

To fertilize streptocarpus, you can use folk remedies, alternating them with complex preparations. Here are some simple options for such feeding:

• 1 tbsp. Dissolve a spoonful of sugar in 0.5 liters of water. Top dressing with this solution can be carried out once a month;
• 3 tbsp. insist on tablespoons of wood ash in 1 liter of water for a week. Watering frequency - once every two weeks;
• Add 1 teaspoon of castor oil to 1 liter of water. Water during bud setting.

Plant feeding is carried out only in the phase of active growth and flowering. If the plant is set to rest. then feeding is not carried out.

Periods of flowering and rest at home

Streptocarpus bloom in spring and end in late autumn, and with sufficient light they can bloom in winter. They do not have a pronounced rest period. With a reduction in daylight hours, if the plant is not provided with additional illumination, the straps slow down growth, stop producing flower stalks, and plant buds. At this time, you can start transplanting a flower, carry out sanitary cleaning, which consists in removing old leaves, stepchildren-rosettes. Sometimes the plant sheds its leaves by itself.

During the rest period, the flower pot can be left on the windowsill. Streps easily tolerates low temperatures (up to +14 degrees), calmly reacts to drafts. It is worth protecting the flower from the hot air of heating. Watering the plant at this time should be moderate. Top dressing in winter is unnecessary.

If your streptocarpus live on backlit shelving, they will bloom in winter too. True, flowering will not be as lush and abundant as in spring or summer. Please note that some straps varieties do not bloom in winter, even with additional lighting. If you plan to create a small winter garden of flowering plants, then carefully study the characteristics of the variety and select suitable hybrids.



For flowering in the autumn-winter period, plants require additional lighting.

Experienced flower growers advise sending the plant on a winter vacation so that it can accumulate strength for a new flowering season.

In the autumn period, baby streptocarpus often bloom. If you want to have a strong and healthy streps bush in the future, it is better not to let them do this. In the best case, leave one flower to see its shade and shape, and trim the rest. Flowering requires a lot of energy from the plant, so sometimes young plants that bloom in winter simply die.



Experts note that the earlier the baby of streptocarpus blooms, the more willingly and abundantly this variety will bloom for adults.

The natural active growth of the flower begins in February, with an increase in daylight hours. If you did not transplant in the fall, then be sure to do it at the end of the dormant period. Until about May, the plant will gain green mass, and then it will begin to form buds. After the end of the flowering period, it is recommended to cut off all dry peduncles from the streps. It is important to do this with a sharp instrument, and not to pull out or break off the shoots. To prevent the plant from wasting nutrients on old leaves, it is also recommended to remove them.



Faded peduncles of streptocarpus should be removed to avoid the formation of ovaries

Careless removal of dried flower stems and old leaves can damage dormant flower buds.

Table: conditions necessary for streptocarpus, depending on the season

If streptocarpus does not bloom

If the flower is sufficiently developed, its leaf rosette is impressive, and the flowering does not begin, then most likely the problem is associated with the incorrect content of the streps. In this case, it is recommended to pay attention to the following points:

• the plant receives less sunlight. Move the pot closer to the sun, avoiding direct rays;
• the soil is excessively moist. Perhaps the roots of the flower have begun to rot. In this case, you need to urgently transplant the straps, after cutting off all diseased and damaged roots;
• the flower lacks nutrients. Flowering is a process that requires a lot from the plant, which it receives from the soil. Feed streptocarpus with complex mineral fertilizers;
• the bush is too thickened. Sometimes at the base of the leaves, not peduncles appear, but small leaves. They must be removed, as they prevent the development of flowering shoots, can quickly fill the space in the center of the bush;

  Sometimes on the petiole of a strong leaf in the place where peduncles should appear, single leaves begin to grow, which do not belong to the growth points

• insect pests slow down the growth of the plant. If, upon visual inspection, you find unwanted guests, then the bush must be quickly treated with folk remedies or chemicals;
• seating capacity too large.

Flower propagation

There are many simple and effective ways to reproduce streptocarpus:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• sheet.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Streptocarpus grows rather quickly, and by the end of the season several divisions with a common root system are formed in the pot. It is not difficult to get several full-fledged bushes from one plant:

1. The bush should be well moistened and removed from the soil.
2. Shake off the ground and use a sharp tool to cut the bush into pieces. Each division should have several leaves. Large leaves can be shortened or removed altogether. This will stimulate the growth of young leaves and promote the fastest rooting of the plant.

   The bush of the plant, along with the root system, is cut with a sharp and clean tool (knife, blade) into two or three parts

3. Damaged, dead roots are cut off. The cut site must be dried and sprinkled with ash or a crushed tablet of activated carbon.
4. The prepared cut is placed in a pot, filled about 2/3 with drainage material and soil substrate.

   A prepared plant is installed on the soil mixture, the roots are carefully straightened, making sure that they do not break and do not lie in a tangled ball

5. The newly formed part is sprinkled with soil up to the root collar. The soil mixture is lightly tamped, making sure that no voids are formed in it.

   They fill up all the free space with earth, repeatedly tapping the pot on a hard surface so that the soil evenly settles and is distributed between the roots

6. The soil is watered with warm water.
7. The planted cut is covered with cellophane, creating a kind of mini-greenhouse. In such conditions, streptocarpus will take root faster.

This method allows you to quickly and inexpensively get at least two new plants from one plant.

Video about this method

Sheet plate

Most often, this method is used if you have got one leaf of the desired variety for your collection. It is best to start this procedure in the spring. The leaf can take root in water. For this, the lower part of the sheet plate is sharpened and placed in a container with water. A significant disadvantage of water rooting is the frequent rotting of the leaf.



A little water is poured into a container, a fragment of a leaf is placed in it and a good root system is formed.

It is much more effective to root a leaf blade in a soil mixture for violets by adding vermiculite and peat to it:

1. The leaf is removed from the plant.
2. Cut the leaf blade with a sharp instrument into fragments 3-5 cm wide. The lines of the cuts should run perpendicular to the central vein, which is recommended to be excised.

   Take a fragment of a healthy leaf, or a leaf that is cut across with a blade

3. The fragments are powdered with crushed charcoal and left to dry for 5 minutes.

   Fragment sections are powdered with crushed charcoal

4. Then the longest part of the cut is planted in the ground, deepening by 5–6 mm. Pieces of leaf can be planted at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

   Fragments are placed with a side cut into the ground, raking the ground from the sides and deepening the cut 0.5-1 cm into the substrate

5. It is recommended to treat the planting with a fungicide, and then cover with a transparent material to create greenhouse conditions.

The container with the planted fragments must be placed in a room with a temperature of + 20-22 degrees. The bag should be removed daily and the planted leaves should be ventilated. Water the soil very carefully. If waterlogging is allowed, then the planted fragments can rot.

In the early days, the planted parts of the leaf plate may wilt slightly, but during the rooting process they will straighten and have a fresh look.

After about two months, babies are formed in the area of ​​the cross veins. When young plants reach two to three centimeters in size (this will happen in another 1.5-2 months), the insulation is removed and the young are transplanted into separate containers.



A baby streptocarpus often consists of only one leaf with roots, but she is already quite capable of living independently

Video: we propagate streptocarpus with a leaf

Seeds

This method is very simple, but it only guarantees that you get young seedlings with signs of the mother plant if you purchase the seeds from a specialized store.



Producers offer a huge selection of seeds of various varieties of streptocarpus at affordable prices

When sowing self-collected seeds, the result will be unpredictable. Most indoor streptocarpus are hybrids, so they are able to retain varietal traits only when propagated in a vegetative way. It is best to sow streptocarpus seeds in early spring. Since the seeds are very small, they are evenly scattered over the surface of the soil.

Important! Seeds sprout in the light, so they cannot be covered with soil.



If you have too many seedlings sprouting, you simply cut out the extra specimens, leaving the strongest of them to grow.

After sowing, the seeds are carefully sprayed with water from a spray bottle, then the pot is covered with glass or other transparent material to create a greenhouse effect. Periodically, it is removed for a short time to ventilate the planting. Seedlings will appear 5-9 days after sowing. They can be thinned out, and when young streptocarpuses reach a height of 2-3 cm, they can be transplanted into separate pots.

Experienced growers advise to dive small seedlings, and several times before transplanting to a permanent place.

The first pick is recommended to be carried out about a month after the emergence of shoots. The sprouts are still very small, so they can be transferred to a new place of residence using tweezers or an ordinary toothpick. If the seedlings are not thickened, then the pick can be carried out in the same box in which they emerged.



Florists advise to make the first pick as soon as it becomes possible to pick up a plant with a toothpick or a drawing pen

From sowing seeds to the beginning of flowering streptocarpus obtained in a similar way, it takes at least 8-9 months.

Video: picking streptocarpus seedlings

Problems when growing streptocarpus and ways to solve them

If your streptocarpus stopped growing, the leaves became lethargic, lost their elasticity, the long-awaited peduncles do not appear, the plant does not respond in any way to watering and changes in illumination, then most likely the flower is affected by some kind of disease or pest. With a close examination, the problems of streptocarpus are easily diagnosed and the flower quickly responds to competent treatment.

Fungal diseases affect indoor flowers, including streptocarpus, if the basic rules for caring for the plant have not been followed:

• watering exceeded the norm;
• the air temperature was lower or much higher than required.

To prevent infection of the flower, it is necessary, in addition to observing the basic rules of care, to regularly carefully examine the plant, to prevent crowding, thickening of the bush, and regularly ventilate the room.

Table: main diseases and pests

Pests and diseases in the photo

The appearance of the plant will always indicate to the owner the presence of a problem in time, the main thing is to regularly inspect the plant and pay attention to its problems.

Table: outward signs of problems

Video: amazingly simple and beautiful straps

Reviews of experienced growers for growing

Thin, exquisite inflorescences, beauty of shape, a huge palette of colors - it's all about streptocarpus, a flower that many growers compare to an orchid. If you have not yet made friends with this lush-flowering houseplant, which responds very actively to any signs of attention, then we advise you to do it as soon as possible. We assure you - you will not regret it!

Hello! My name is Ludmila. Higher education, graduated from the Minsk Institute of Culture. I live in Belarus.


Date of publication:Growing at home