How to grow currants from cuttings at home?

Every gardener knows that his own currants are much tastier than purchased ones. At the same time, growing currants from cuttings is not difficult. But at the same time, all relevant requirements must be carefully observed.

Every gardener knows that his own currants are much tastier than purchased ones. At the same time, growing currants from cuttings is not difficult. But at the same time, all relevant requirements must be carefully observed.

Reproduction of currants by cuttings in spring

For propagation of currants in the spring, lignified cuttings should be used. Early spring is considered the best time to harvest them. Cuttings are only cut from healthy bushes. For reproduction, you need to use fully ripe shoots at least fifteen centimeters long.

To separate the cutting from the bush, it is necessary to make an incision with a sharp secateurs. In this case, the upper incision is made at a distance of one centimer above the kidney, and the lower one at the same distance under the lower kidney. The lower incision is made at a slight angle. In the future, young shoots appear on a piece of cutting, located between the buds and nodes.

Reproduction of currants by cuttings in spring in water

The main difficulty of this method lies in the correct choice of the period for harvesting cuttings. The optimal period for this is considered to be the time when the snow began to melt, and the currant buds have already swollen. From the tools you will need a pruner or a garden knife. With its help, it is necessary to cut a green stalk at least fifteen centimeters long from a healthy plant. In this case, the cut at the top is always made straight, and at the bottom - at a slight angle.

After that, the cuttings should be placed in one liter jars of soft water. Moreover, several cuttings can be placed in one container at once. But it is not recommended to get too carried away, since too much of them will lead to the oppression of some plants by others. The best option is to place no more than five cuttings in a liter container.

It should not be forgotten that the propagation of currants by cuttings in the spring in water involves their obligatory feeding. But in no case should the recommended doses of fertilizers be exceeded. Since too much nutrients can simply burn young roots. The cuttings should be in the water for about three or four weeks. In any case, roots of at least 15 millimeters should develop on them. Only then can they be transferred to plastic cups with potting soil.

It is prepared from three parts of peat, as well as one part of humus and sand. For the first three days, a young plant must be watered and fertilized. The best option is nitroammofosk, which requires about five grains. In a month, the seedlings will be strong enough to be transplanted into open ground. But they should be accustomed to external conditions in advance by placing them in the sun every day.

How to plant currants in spring with cuttings

Planting cuttings in the ground is a very responsible process that must be done according to all the rules. Planting holes are recommended to be prepared in the fall. Then in the spring it will be possible to plant the shoots in a sufficiently moist soil, which will accelerate the appearance of young roots.The landing is carried out in specially prepared trenches, the depth of which reaches twenty centimeters. Before planting currants in spring with cuttings, a mixture of rotted manure and compost must be laid at the bottom of the planting pit.

It is advisable to land the planting itself in early spring, as soon as the snow melts and the air warms up a little. This will enable young plants to take root before the onset of the winter cold.

Reproduction of currants by cuttings in spring involves planting them in a pre-prepared trench at a distance of ten centimeters from each other. It is recommended to stretch a cord along the entire length of the trench and plant the cuttings strictly along it. If you plan to install several trenches at once, then a distance of at least 40 centimeters should be left between them. This distance will allow the gardener to provide the young plants with the necessary care in the summer without any inconvenience. It will also be convenient for him to dig up rooted currants for its subsequent transplantation to a permanent place.

A prerequisite for the reproduction of currants is a sufficiently high level of soil moisture. So that the soil does not dry out in the summer, it is necessary to mulch it directly at the planting site using humus or peat. Moreover, the thicker their layer is, the better for a young plant. The best option is to mulch with a layer of the appropriate substance five centimeters thick.

Also, reliable protection of the soil from drying out is provided with the help of a polyethylene film. Moreover, for this purpose, only black or transparent is suitable. Holes are made at the planting site of currant cuttings, and the rest of the area is under the film. This method accelerates the development of young plants and at the same time protects the soil from drying out.

If, before the onset of autumn, young plants have time to transform into full-fledged bushes, then they can be transferred to a permanent place. Otherwise, it is recommended to leave them in their old place for one more season.

04 Feb 2016 16:22 | # 0 0 4666 0

While growing blackcurrant seedlings annually, I have tried several methods of producing them. I planted cuttings in autumn and spring, but I didn't like it - the seedlings did not always turn out to be of high quality and attractive. The most satisfactory for me was the "room" method, on which I want to stop now.

Into the water - potassium permanganate

I cut the cuttings in the winter, from February 15. According to my observations, this is the most suitable time for slicing. The length of the cuttings is usual - 13-15 cm, with 4-5 buds, the thickness is from 6 mm and more. Immediately I put 5-10 pieces in half-liter, well-washed, glass jars. I fill them with water (1 cm), in which I dilute a little potassium permanganate so that the color is light lilac.
The water should only cover the lower bud as the roots form at the water-to-air level. I put the cans on the windowsill on the south side of the house, where there is a lot of light.

After a few days, the water becomes discolored, but I do not change it, but only refill it as it evaporates. I maintain the level until roots with a length of 7-10 mm are formed on the cuttings. Please note that leaves first appear, and then - already on the parts submerged in water - white tubercles, from which roots grow in 30-35 days (by March 20-25).

Bottles help out

By this time, I am preparing liter plastic bottles for water or juice. I cut off the upper part, make several holes on the bottom to drain excess water and fill the containers with the nutrient mixture. For its preparation, at the rate of 1 bucket I take: 2 parts of forest soil and 1 part of humus and river sand. At the bottom, on a 1-2 cm layer of earth, I put rooted cuttings, cover it with earth almost to the top, then sprinkle it with sand, a layer of 1 cm, and water it with water at room temperature.

I select a suitable box for this purpose, put 10 such bottles in it and put it on the windowsill. Shoots begin to grow rapidly.
In mid-April, I dig a trench in the garden (most importantly, not in the shade), half a meter deep, 40 cm wide at the top and 30 cm wide at the bottom. I cover it with a glazed frame so that the soil warms up.

In late April - early May, I define boxes with seedlings under the frame. I put a thermometer in the same place to control the temperature, it should be at the level of + 23-25 ​​° C. If the column rises higher, I open the frame for the day, and close it at night.

When the shoots reach the glass surface in height, I cut off the tops. This agricultural practice causes their rapid branching.

We save a whole year

By the beginning of July, seedlings grow, which are not inferior in development to those grown in the standard way. By this time, as a rule, the threat of recurrent frosts has passed, so I calmly proceed to planting small plants in the school. By the fall, good bushes are formed, and the next year many of them are already beginning to bear fruit.

The "indoor" cultivation method attracts with the fact that robots can use their free winter time and save the whole year. In fact, cuttings dug in in spring, as well as cuttings by autumn, will only provide material for growing in a school, and with indoor rooting, ready-made seedlings are obtained by spring.

In this way, every year I grow high-quality planting material of the best currant varieties for today - Sofievskaya and Krasa Lvova, and I am very pleased with it.

Ivan Dzigora, scientist agronomist, gardener-variety tester. with. Anikievo, Maloviskovsky district, Kirovograd region

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Currant is a rather unpretentious horticultural crop. To maintain a bountiful harvest, the bushes need to be rejuvenated from time to time. It is not at all necessary to buy new planting material, propagation of currants by cuttings in spring is the easiest way to get new seedlings. In addition, this will preserve all the varietal characteristics of the plant.

Collection of planting material

Cultivation of black currants in spring begins with the collection of cuttings, which are prepared in the process of planned pruning of bushes. You will need a pruner and a sharp garden knife. Harvest cuttings from annual shoots (they grow from the root, as well as on two to three year old branches).

Procedure:

1. Choose annual shoots with a thickness of 7 mm or more, they should be lignified, without damage. The middle of the shoot goes to cuttings.
2. Use pruning shears to cut the strongest ones. The length of the finished cutting should be up to 20 cm.
3. Take a sharp garden knife and use it to cut the shoot into cuttings 13-20 cm long.
4. To do this, cut the lower edge of the shoot directly under the bud (at an angle of 50-60 °), make the upper cut oblique 1 cm above the bud (at an angle of 90 °).

For harvesting cuttings, the upper and lower parts of the shoot cannot be used, they root poorly, so they must be thrown away.

Cutting currants in water

Spring cuttings of currants in water helps to speed up fruiting for a whole year.

Place 2 cut cuttings in each container (for example, a plastic cup will do). Water should cover no more than 2 buds. After 7-10 days, the first signs of roots will appear in the internodes.

After the formation of the root lobe, place each cutting in 1 container with a volume of at least 200-250 ml. After a while, leaves will appear. Flowering should not be allowed, so the flowers that appear must be cut off.

Glasses with seedlings should be in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight. Change the water in the containers from time to time. The whole process of spring cuttings lasts an average of 5-8 weeks. Plant prepared cuttings in early to late May, when the spring frost has passed.

Choosing a landing site

Currant grows well and bears fruit on neutral heavy and medium loamy soils. The choice of planting site will depend on the type of shrub. Black currant loves open places and partial shade, can grow in lowlands, humid areas, but without waterlogging.

White, red currants are more drought-resistant, preferring light and sandy loam soils. A good harvest can be obtained by planting bushes in elevated, well-lit areas.

Preparing the soil for breeding

It is better to prepare the soil for planting currant cuttings in the fall. It is recommended to choose a sufficiently illuminated area. They must be protected from the wind and well moisturized.

Usually currants are planted along the borders of the plot, the distance between the bush and the fence should not be less than 1.2–1.5 m. Prepare the plot before planting seedlings. Dig the ground to a depth of 20-22 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) and clear the weeds.

Currants prefer organic fertilizers, so put compost (or rotted manure) into the planting trenches. Thanks to this method of preparation, the earth will be able to accumulate enough moisture for better root formation. Organic fertilizers are applied at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m2.

In the spring, before planting cuttings, you can make:

• granular superphosphate - 100-150 g / m2;
• potassium sulfate or wood ash - 20-30 g / m2.

It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil; at a pH of 4-5.5, lime must be added in an amount of 0.3-0.8 kg / m2.

Planting cuttings

Immediately before planting, soak the currant cuttings in a growth stimulator (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Epin, etc.). This will speed up the rooting process.

Plant the finished cuttings at least 1 meter apart. On fertile lands, this distance can be reduced; on poor soils, plants are planted at a distance of up to 1.5 m.

Dip the cuttings into the prepared moist soil on the 2 lower buds at an angle of 45⁰.

The upper bud with the leaf should point upwards. Experienced experts advise planting cuttings of black currant, 3 pieces in each hole. Embed them at an angle, but point them in different directions.

After planting the cuttings, cover them with humus, the layer of which should be at least 5 cm. This method will allow you to retain moisture in the soil for the formation of roots. Instead of humus, it is allowed to use black film. It will accelerate the development of roots, preserve the looseness of the soil. Cover the cuttings with cut plastic bottles without a lid.

Caring for cuttings after breeding

For currant cuttings to take root quickly, it is very important to provide proper care. Plants must be protected from direct sunlight. The temperature and humidity should be comfortable for the plants.

In the first weeks, spray the cuttings 3-4 times a day, opening the mini-greenhouses from plastic bottles. For normal root formation, the daytime temperature should be + 25⁰, and at night it should not fall below + 16⁰. If it is too hot under the greenhouses, ventilation is necessary.

Water the cuttings of currants regularly and abundantly. After 16-20 days, the cuttings will take root, then the amount of watering can be reduced. When shoots 4-5 cm long appear on the cuttings, the currants are fed with slurry (10 liters per 1 m2) after watering and loosening. It will be necessary to carry out another 1-2 feeding with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

Gradually increase the exposure time of young shoots one month after rooting. Reproduction of currants by cuttings allows you to get powerful bushes with a good root system in a year.

Care of young blackcurrant seedlings for 2 years

Prune the following year in early spring, leaving up to 4 buds on each branch. Remove the emerging ovaries, flowers. This will allow the side shoots to grow.

Loosen the soil regularly, but shallowly so as not to damage the roots. If the summer is dry, water the seedlings (up to 15 liters of water per plant). Fertilize the bushes with slurry, bird droppings solution.

When black currant is propagated by cuttings, the first crop can be removed in the 3rd year of the life of the bush. The maximum yield is achieved in the 6th year of cultivation, then the plant is depleted.To prevent this, it is necessary to carry out rejuvenation by cuttings every 10 years.

Useful Tips

1. Pay attention to the correct choice of the mother plant. You need to cut a healthy bush, which gives a good harvest of delicious berries.
2. Harvest cuttings in the early morning, when the dew has not yet melted, or in cloudy weather.
3. Sawdust can be added to the soil for planting cuttings.
4. For the first 3 weeks, watering should be abundant and regular.
5. The rooting of the cuttings can be checked very simply, it is enough to slightly pull on the top of the shoot. If little resistance is felt, the plant has taken root. In this case, remove the mini-greenhouse.
6. Fertilize seedlings 3-4 times per season. You can use complex additives (at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water). Organic fertilizers are also suitable.

These helpful tips will help you propagate and grow healthy currant bushes without too much financial expense.

Currants grow in one place for many years, reaching a maximum fruiting by four to eight years. After the age of nine, its yield decreases, the berries become smaller. The plant is more likely to get sick and is exposed to an invasion of pests, the land under it is depleted. Bushes rejuvenate by pruning, but it is more rational to breed a suitable variety.

Among the methods of propagation (by seeds, cuttings, layering, division), cuttings are considered the most productive. With this method, a large amount of planting material is obtained, since at least 90% of the blanks can be rooted, the varietal characteristics of the parent crop are preserved.

1 The order of harvesting cuttings

To begin with, they are determined with the choice of mother bushes for breeding: well-developed, not damaged by diseases or pests, forming a high yield of tasty berries. Red currants are cut from late August to mid-September, black currants - throughout the season. A good time to cut autumn shoots is early morning or a cloudy day, starting from the 1st month of autumn until the beginning of the 2nd. More often this operation is combined with planned pruning and thinning. Wherein:

• Annual shoots are removed entirely, leaving no stumps.
• Cuttings are harvested from their middle part, preferably with a sharpened knife, so the trunk tissue is less wrinkled.
• An oblique cut is made five centimeters below the last bud, above the top, retreating 1–1.5 cm - straight.
• The length of lignified cuttings with four to five healthy buds is 13–15 cm, and the thickness is 5–7 cm.

When planted in open ground, they are unlikely to survive the winter. Store the cuts in the refrigerator, cool basement, or in the snow. Having previously kept for five minutes in a solution of copper sulfate, the sections are treated with molten paraffin and wrapped in a plastic bag. Planted in spring. In this case, the first season will be lost, and the harvest will have to wait longer than with the other method.

2 Rooting sprouts and planting bushes

The optimal solution is to propagate currants by cuttings at home. 5-10 pieces each are immediately placed in clean glass jars with a weak solution of manganese, one centimeter high, placed on a sunny window, having placed foam plastic for insulation. Over time, the water brightens, it is not changed, only topped up as it evaporates. Roots are formed at the border of water and air in a month, the leaves bloom earlier. A quarter teaspoon of honey is added to stimulate root formation.

When the roots reach 7–10 cm in length, the cuttings are planted in plastic bottles or juice bags, cutting off the upper part and making drainage holes in the bottom. You can also use other containers or roll up the wrapping paper cups. Pour one centimeter of purchased soil or a self-prepared mixture at the rate of 2 parts of sod land, one each of sand and humus. Saplings are installed and fall asleep to the highest bud, watered abundantly.Having picked up a suitable box, containers are placed in it and placed on a light windowsill.

In April, they dig a trench half a meter deep in the garden and cover it with a film or glass frame so that the greenhouse warms up, in May they put currants in it. The elongated tops are trimmed to stimulate branching. After the cessation of recurrent frosts, the bushes are planted in a school:

• Dig a trench on the bayonet of a shovel.
• The earth is mixed with peat or humus and river sand.
• If the soil is acidic, add ash or crushed eggshells.
• At the same time, nitrogen fertilizer is applied.
• Stir the mixture and fall asleep with it, without compacting, half the trench.
• Carefully, using a scoop or a tablespoon, transfer the cuttings along with the soil and set them vertically with a distance of 20-30 cm between them.
• Then carefully cover with the mixture to the bottom sheet.
• Without tamping, plantings are abundantly shed.
• After the soil has settled, add more.
• From above, mulch with humus up to three centimeters high.

For early adaptation and increase immunity, plantings are sprayed with Epin's solution. Spring melt water favors the development of the root system. So that the bright sun does not burn the leaves, the place is shaded. The formed flower brushes are plucked out to avoid weakening of the plant.

Currant care consists of weeding and regular watering. In autumn, weeds are removed to prevent infection from them with diseases, they dig up the soil 6-10 cm, mulch, sprinkle with ash and feed with superphosphate.

3 What is the secret of a good harvest?

The following spring, well-developed bushes are planted in place. Set at an angle of 40–45 degrees, deepening by 5–8 cm to form additional roots. 0.7-1.2 m are left between the plants, one row is 1.5-2.5 meters apart from the other. Then the bushes are watered abundantly, mulched with humus and cut into 3-4 buds.

In the second year, shoots are removed, leaving three to four thick shoots, which subsequently form skeletal branches. Many sprouts appear in the future. Of these, 4–5 suitable trunks are kept, the rest are cut to ground level. At the same time, sick, weak, low-lying, rubbing little pads are removed. Gradually aging and worse fruiting trunks are cut off every year, keeping annual, well-located shoots. A grown bush with 9-15 branches of different ages will provide abundant, uniform fruiting throughout its life.

The soil under the currants is loosened no deeper than 6–9 cm twice a month, and weeds are periodically removed. If in the spring you cover the trunk circles with cardboard, roofing felt or film, moisture will be preserved better, pests that have wintered in the soil will not be able to get out, and the weeds will not grow.

For the prevention of diseases, until the buds have blossomed, the bushes are watered with boiled water from a watering can or through a sieve. To prevent the ovaries from freezing, they are sprayed with water during frost or protected by smoke.

4 How to grow healthy currants?

Even with proper care of the bushes, they are attacked by pests. Swollen round buds indicate the presence of a currant mite. Dried shoots in a green crown indicate damage by glass. When cut, a dark hole is found in its center. The deformed tips will help you find aphid colonies. Fighting ants will reduce the likelihood of its occurrence. The caterpillars of the leafworm can be easily identified by the tubes, eaten by cobwebs. After the sawfly larvae, only petioles and veins remain on the branches.

Every spring, shoots are examined and diseased ones are removed. Manual collection of pests and treatment with solutions of garlic, onion, dandelion, burdock, wood ash successfully replace chemical agents. In the spring season, a culture is recognized that is affected by terry, its flowers are not of the usual bell-shaped shape, but with cut petals. In case of partial damage, branches are cut out, with severe damage, the bush is removed.To avoid a fungal disease (anthracnose), leading to browning and leaf fall, thickened plants are thinned out, the earth is regularly dug up.

Breeders annually develop new varieties with delicious berries and resistance to some types of diseases. Updating old plants at their expense, you can eventually multiply successful ones and move on to growing fertile and healthy currants.