How to grow rhododendron at home?

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how to grow rhododendron at home

Among potted plants, lovers of indoor floriculture distinguish rhododendron. It is simply impossible to resist this handsome man who pleases with the bloom of unusually diverse and graceful flowers all winter.

Among potted plants, lovers of indoor floriculture distinguish rhododendron. It is simply impossible to resist this handsome man who pleases with the bloom of unusually diverse and graceful flowers all winter.

FAMILY: Heather

APPEARANCE: Dwarf shrubs; young shoots are densely covered with appressed flat bright brown or grayish bristly hairs

LEAVES: 2-5 cm long, dull, bristly hairy

FLOWERS: Collected in 2-6; corolla from pink-red to dark red, sometimes pink or white, often with specks

The ancestor of almost all known varieties of indoor rhododendrons (they are also mistakenly called Indian azaleas) was the Sims rhododendron.

He came to us from China and Japan.These plants quickly form beautiful bushes covered with delicate bright flowers of various colors (white, pink, red, purple variegated) and shapes (double, semi-double and simple). Flowering duration is 2.5-3 months. If you correctly select varieties with early, middle and late flowering periods, provide them with full care, you can achieve continuous flowering from November to May.

See also: Rhododendron (photo) planting and care, varieties and types from A to Z

Keep the plants in a bright, cool (about + 15 degrees), well-ventilated area. No drafts!

Plant in low and wide pots (bowls), since rhododendrons have a shallow root system. It is better to use sour high-moor peat as a substrate. It can be replaced with an acidic soil mixture (pH - 4-4.5). In addition, the substrate must be lightweight, water-permeable and breathable. In stores you can find

When buying a rhododendron in a store, choose a specimen with 2 flowers and a large number of unopened buds, a special one marked "for rhododendrons" (consists of coniferous soil and high peat 2: 1).

TIP: Water indoor rhododendrons with soft (preferably rain or melt) water. To reduce the temperature, you can put snow in the pan. And watch out for the clod of earth in the pot - don't overdry!

Transfer young plants from pot to pot annually, gradually increasing the volume of the container. Repot old bushes once every 2-3 years after flowering. When re-

in the cage, do not under any circumstances deepen the root collar.

Feed your rhododendrons 2-3 times a month with acidic fertilizers. For example, a mixture of ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and magnesium sulfate (9: 10: 4: 2) is suitable. Dissolve 15 g of this fertilizer in 10 liters of water and water the flowers with the resulting composition (up to 0.5 liters per plant). You can buy complete complex fertilizers with trace elements specifically for rhododendrons.

Indoor rhododendrons need high air and soil humidity (70-80%) for normal growth and development. On hot days, spray the bushes with water several times a day. Once a week, immerse the plants with the pot in water and keep for about an hour until the ground is completely saturated with moisture. Then let the excess liquid drain and replace the flower.

After flowering on the bushes, remove dried inflorescences, cut off weak and highly fattening shoots, leaving 4-5 leaves on them. Prune long, young shoots as well.

In summer, plants can be left indoors, or you can plant them in open ground or dig in a pot in a semi-shaded place in the garden. Protect from drafts on the balcony or veranda, shade from direct sunlight. And do not forget to spray, loosen the soil, feed.

Do not spray rhododendrons during flowering to avoid the appearance of dark spots on the flowers.

how to grow rhododendron at home

See also: Pruning rhododendrons from A to Z (photo)

Are the leaves of a rhododendron falling?

From a lack or excess of water, inappropriate soil acidity in indoor rhododendrons, leaves begin to fall off. In this case, you need to normalize the acidity and feed, as well as spray the plants with Epin (according to the instructions).

Leaves can also crumble from the disease - septoria. For treatment, spray the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux liquid every 10-12 days (10 g per 1 liter of water). Use the same composition several times during the summer for preventive treatments.

I would very much like to admire the flowers of rhododendrons on these winter days. Can they be made to bloom like other plants?

Lydia Ksenofontova

- There is no need to dig a bush in the garden and put it on forcing. Breeders have created many varieties of indoor rhododendrons. Their ancestor is R. Simsa. These evergreen or semi-evergreen highly branched shrubs bloom for 2.5-3 months. If you pick up early, middle and late varieties and follow agricultural techniques, the flowering holiday will last without interruption from November to May.

They like light, cool (about +15 degrees), well-ventilated, draft-free rooms.

Landing rules

Indoor rhododendrons are planted in low and wide pots (bowls), since they have a superficial root system. The substrate is sour high-moor peat. If necessary, it can be replaced with an acidic soil mixture (pH 4-4.5). The substrate should be lightweight, water and breathable.

It is important to consider

Young plants are transferred to a larger pot annually, gradually increasing in volume. Old bushes are transplanted once every 2-3 years after flowering. When transplanting, in no case should the root collar be buried.

From a lack or excess of water, inappropriate acidity of the substrate in indoor rhododendrons, leaves fall off. In this case, you need to normalize the acidity, feed and sprinkle the plants with "Epin".

Care

Two or three times a month they are fed with acidic fertilizers. More often make a mixture of "Ammonium sulfate", "Superphosphate", "Potassium sulfate" and "Magnesium sulfate" (9: 10: 4: 2). 15 g of this mixture is dissolved in 10 l of water and watered (up to 0.5 l for one plant).

You can use complete complex fertilizers with microelements specially prepared for azaleas.

For normal growth and development, indoor rhododendrons need high humidity of the air and substrate (70-80%). On hot days, spraying with water is helpful. But not during flowering, otherwise dark spots will appear on the flowers.

Once a week, the plant, along with the pot, is dipped into a container of water and kept for an hour, until the earth is completely saturated with moisture. Then the excess is allowed to drain and put in place. Watering is best done with soft rain or melt water.

To reduce the temperature, you can put snow in the pan. It is very dangerous to dry out potted soil.

After flowering, the bushes are pruned.

For the summer, you can leave the flower indoors or plant it in open ground, even in a pot in a semi-shaded place in the garden. On the balcony or veranda, rhododendrons are protected from drafts, shaded from direct sunlight.

Diseases and pests

The most common manifestation is septoria, in which the leaves crumble.

Often this is due to a violation of agricultural technology. For protection, the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid every 10-12 days.

For prevention, it is possible several times during the summer. Of the pests, the spider mite is the most dangerous. They are treated with insecticides, for example, "Agrovertin".

Tatiana KURLOVICH, Cand. biol. sciences.

All the evergreen rhododendrons that we planted died. bali. I want to try to tame them again. Advise, what is important to pay attention to in order for everything to work out?

Vasily Dubko

- The main conditions for the successful growth of these plants are acidic soil pH 4.5-5.5 and the presence of mycorrhiza in it, so that rhododendrons assimilate the nutrients they need. Therefore, the best neighbors for them are pines, on the roots of which mycorrhiza forms. Also, for successful wintering, plants need abundant pre-winter watering.

Preferred varieties. Try planting Dahurian rhododendrons of the species or April Jam or April Rose with white double flowers, as well as April Rhine with pink ones. The varieties Azurro, Diadem, Dagmar, Hachmann's Charmant are quite resistant.

Svetlana PEREPELOVA, collector, Moscow

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It is not easy to grow rhododendrons in the conditions of the Middle Lane. The main species used in domestic horticulture come from the Far East or North America. This can explain their exactingness to the growing conditions, which must be created in a special way.In the article, we will consider the step-by-step cultivation of Rhododendron from seeds, reproduction and determine where and when to plant a flower.

These are by no means those plants about which one can say: "I planted and forgot." But their exquisite beauty is worth the care of a gardener.

Reproduction types of rhododendron

The difficulty of growing makes the desire to propagate a rhododendron on your own even more interesting. You can get a new plant at home using cuttings, cuttings and seeds. Cuttings are suitable for rooting sufficiently ripe, therefore harvesting and planting is carried out from mid-July to mid-August.

Bushes are propagated by layering, the shoots of which can be bent to the ground and fixed in grooves. But this method requires a mother liquor, which can be cut off after the establishment of a new plant.

You can get a young rhododendron without damaging the mother plant - by collecting seeds. And although this method does not guarantee the preservation of the variety, it is possible to get a new hybrid form. In addition, the advantage of the resulting bushes in a well-developed strong root system, increased resistance to adverse conditions, compared to rhododendrons obtained by vegetative means.

Features of preparation and conditions for germinating seeds for seedlings

Rhododendron seeds are commercially available.

Preparation for sowing is carried out as follows:

  1. Seeds are harvested from late August to mid-September... The main condition is full maturity. The collection time depends on the flowering time, the earlier the flowers appear, the faster the fruits ripen. Read also the article: → "How to collect flower seeds."
  2. Rhododendron grains are very small. It is important to keep them until spring sowing; they are stored in a dry, dark, cool place until spring.
  3. At the beginning of March, the seeds are prepared for sowing by soaking them for 6 hours in a growth stimulant solution, for example, Kornevin. Other drugs are also suitable: "Heteroauxin", succinic or boric acid.
  4. At the same time, a special soil substrate is prepared, which consists of peat and sand in equal parts.
  5. Planting boxes are filled with soil mixture and spilled with potassium permanganate to prevent diseases and pests.
  6. Before sowing, the substrate is acidified with water with dissolved oxalic or citric acid 3-4 g per 10 l of water. (Can be replaced with a solution of 9% acetic acid - 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.)
  7. Rhododendron seeds are placed on the soil surface without deepening. Sprinkle on top with a thin layer of sand.
  8. Cover with a special lid or plastic wrap.

For the germination of rhododendron seeds, you need:

  • Temperature - + 220 - + 250,
  • Lighting - 14-18 hours. In this regard, at the beginning of March, it is necessary to additionally illuminate the crops.

When shoots appear after 18 - 30 days, the boxes are transferred to a cooler place with a temperature of + 80 - + 120, so that the seedlings are less damaged by diseases. Do not allow the soil to dry out, as well as waterlogging, the seedlings will die from this. The state of the substrate is kept moderately moist.

Tip # 1. Rhododendron sprouts are thin and weak. Regular watering can destroy them, so watering should be done in a sump.

Timing of picking seedlings

Rhododendron shoots are very small and tender. The first pick can be done not earlier than June. Seedlings are carefully transferred one at a time to each planting pot or cassette cell. After complete rooting, the seedling is planted in open ground with a lump of earth. That is why they immediately use dishes with a diameter of at least 5 - 8 cm. Peat tablets are well suited for picking. Read also the article: → "Review of the use of peat tablets for seedlings."

  • After complete swelling of the nutrient mixture, when the substrate increases 5-7 times, a hole is made in the center of the tablet and one seedling is placed in it with a small lump of the seed substrate.
  • After planting, gently squeeze the edges with two fingers with two fingers.
  • They are planted in open ground together with a tablet.

In the summer, the dive is taken out into the garden in a shaded place, well protected from wind and drafts. In this case, the lighting should be gentle, not too dark. But not scorching either.

With the onset of cold weather, young plants are returned to the greenhouse.

Growing rhododendrons in a greenhouse or at home

In October, rooted and hardened seedlings are returned to the greenhouse or to another warm room, with a temperature of + 180. Long-term illumination of 16-18 hours is necessary for successful growth, therefore, in winter it is necessary to turn on artificial light lamps in the morning and in the evening. It is better to use fluorescent lamps that create lighting as close to natural as possible.

  • Their advantage is low heat transfer and high light intensity.
  • The negative side is the need for ballasts - control gear, which affects the increase in the cost of equipment.

In addition to fluorescent lamps, the following lamps are used:

  • Special luminescent,
  • Compact luminescent,
  • Gas discharge,
  • Mercury,
  • Sodium, high pressure.
  • Metal halide,

Phytolamps for plants are considered the most productive. In this mode, the seedlings of rhododendron are kept until May, and then transplanted into open ground for growing.

Selection of a place in the garden for planting Rhododendron in open ground

For growing seedlings, they choose a cozy place in the garden, closed from the wind, but at the same time well ventilated. The illumination is created slightly shaded, but not shaded.

Tip # 2. It is important to remember that rhododendrons cannot stand the scorching sun and thick shade.

Proper soil preparation is critical to a successful cultivation. The structure is formed as a light loam, acidity needs a pH of 4.5 - 5.

Methods for determining and optimizing soil acidity

Methods for determining acidity: 1. When the measuring electrode is placed in moist soil, the pH readings appear on the analyzer's scale. 2. The color change on litmus paper is applied to a color scale, each shade of which is numbered.

You can determine the pH level using a special test device. Another way to find out the pH value is to use litmus paper.

  1. The dried and sifted soil is poured with distilled (or boiled) water 1: 1. Stir and allow to settle.
  2. An indicator is lowered into the solution.
  3. The color change on the paper is compared to the color scale on the package. Read also the article: → "Soil acidity: methods of determination and correction."

If, as a result of the analysis, it turns out that the pH is above the 5 mark, the soil needs adjustment.

Preparation of a nutrient mixture using an improving additive - peat, sapropel, green manure, purchased soil

To optimize the structure and acidity of the soil, organic substances are used - low peat, sapropel type or purchased peat-containing soil. The optimal plant mixture for rhododendrons is the ratio of leafy soil, peat and rotted needles 3: 2: 1. In addition to these components, you can add the following substances:

Name Application
Grass peat Improves soil structure and increases acidity. To change the pH by one unit, you need 12.5 liters of peat per one planting pit 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5. At the same time, the figure decreases on the acidity scale.
Sapropel Only silica types can be used and in small quantities, due to the alkaline reaction of sapropel, which neutralizes acidity.
Purchased soils Those that contain low-lying peat. On sale among those there are:
  • Soil-peat mixture "Garden Land", BIUD.
  • "Veltorf" - Primer for azaleas and rhododendrons ". Fully balanced blend with no need for additions.
  • "Soil" Flower Happiness "Azalea.Fasco." intended for the cultivation of heathers, which include rhododendron.
  • Soil for rhododendrons "GREENWORLD", Germany.It consists of high-moor peat, lowland peat, nitrogen (N) 150-400mg / l, phosphorus (P2O5) 100-300mg / l, potassium (K2O) 150-400mg / l, trace elements, has an acidity of pH 4.3-5.2 ... Completely ready to use.

The easiest way is to use purchased mixtures from trusted manufacturers. Such soil, compiled by specialists, does not require supplementation; it can be filled into the planting pit with a complete replacement of the natural soil.

Caring for growing rhododendrons during and after flowering

For planting rhododendrons, an individual planting pit is created, for which the soil is optimized or completely replaced. A drainage layer of 20 - 40 cm made of crushed brick and sand must be placed on the bottom. Then fill with potting soil. It is better if the soil settles, for example, from autumn or at least from March to May.

The seedlings are transferred to a permanent place in the spring, when the threat of return frosts has passed. For rooting, phosphorus fertilizers are used 30 g per planting pit. The first feeding is carried out after complete survival. For this, special fertilizers are used for rhododendrons.

  • "Gilea" - contains a balanced complex of NPK and trace elements.

Application feature: only on well-moistened soil, exclusively for established plants. Cannot be used for seedlings, diseased or weakened plants.

  • "Stimovit" - organic fertilizer, made from vermicompost. In a solution of 25 ml of the product in 250 ml of water, seeds can be soaked. Root feeding is carried out once a month, 25 mg per 1 liter of water. For spraying the crown, a concentration is used 3 - 4 times less than for the main fertilizer.
  • "AGRECOL -" 100 days "For rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas" - mineral agent in granules. It is used in spring due to its high nitrogen content, which stimulates growth.

Purchased fertilizers are successfully replacing organic fertilizers. In the spring, one bucket of a nutrient mixture from cow humus and decomposed compost is introduced under each bush. The second time rhododendrons are fed at the end of flowering. Here you can apply mineral fertilizers - superphosphate and potassium salt of 25 - 30 g. It is better to apply fertilizing in small doses. An excess of phosphorus contributes to a lack of iron in the soil.

Rhododendrons need abundant watering of 10 - 15 liters each 2 - 3 times a week. Once a month, acid is added to the water to maintain the pH, for example, 1 - 2 tablespoons of 9% acetic acid per 10 liters of water. You can maintain the desired level with the help of coniferous rotted mulch, which is added as needed. With this care, loosening of the soil is not necessary, the mulch creates the necessary aeration.

In autumn, for successful wintering, rhododendrons are fed with phosphorus - potassium fertilizers, and water-charged irrigation is carried out. With the onset of cold weather, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, spunbond or craft paper. The shelter is removed in April next year.

Plan for growing rhododendrons from seeds by day

The plan includes the following stages:

Deadline Type of work
August 20 - September 15 (after the fruits are fully ripe). Procurement and drying of seeds, storage.
February 20 - March 5 Seed revision, preparation for sowing.
March 1-10 Sowing seeds
April 15 - 20 Hardening of seeds at a temperature of + 80 - + 120
June 10 - 20 Seedling picking
June 5 - 15 Transferring seedlings to the garden (in pots or cassettes).

Feeding with fertilizer for rhododendrons of low concentration.

September 20 - October 1 Returning seedlings to the greenhouse
May 15 - 20 (next year) Planting seedlings in open ground for growing.

The best species and varieties, their advantages and disadvantages

In the gardening of the Middle Lane, the following rhododendrons are most often grown:

Variety name Flower color
1. 1.Gold Tracht

2. 2.Saint Michel

3.Alba Nova

4. 4.Ballerina

5. 5.Cunninghams White

6. Daviesii

7. Dreamland

8. Persil

9. Schneespiege

10. Shneegold

11. 11. Simona

White
1. Azurvolke

2. Goldflimmer

3. Grandiflorum

4. Boursalt (Ketevbin)

Lilovo - blue
1. Percy Weissman

2. Kermensina Rosea (with white stripe)

3. Soir de Paris

4. Catharine van Tol

5. Rosy Lights

6. Temple Belle

7. Milan

Pink
1. Nabucco

2. Saturnius

3. Fireglow

4. Lady Roseberry

5. Parkfeuer

Red
1. Nicholaas Beets

2. Golden Eagle

3. Coccineum Speciosum

4. Klondyke Knapp Hill

Orange
1. Gallipoli

2. Golden Sunset

3. Anabella

4. Unique

5. Sun Chariot

Yellow

Best Regions to Grow Rhododendrons

Despite their "foreign" origin, modern ones are successfully grown in those climatic zones that are radically different from the conditions of wild relatives. Today, gardeners of the Middle Belt, North-Western regions, southern Urals and Siberia have the opportunity to admire a fairly large variety of acclimatized varietal forms. Breeders have bred over 20,000 varieties and hybrids and work continues. It is possible to grow these beautiful shrubs in different conditions, if you choose correctly not only decorative qualities, but primarily bio-ecological ones.

Use in landscape design

Rhododendrons are compared to roses for their spectacular flowering. And not in vain, in the literal translation "Rhodon" is a rose, and "Dendron" is a tree. They are distinguished by decorative leaves and spectacular flowering. Due to the peculiarities of growing conditions, they are planted alone as a tapeworm or in the vicinity of other varieties. Also, combinations with plants that require acidified soil are possible.

  1. Some varietal undersized spruces and pines.
  2. Hydrangea is treelike and large-leaved (with constant control of root growth). Rhododendrons and hydrangeas have a superficial root system, you need to ensure that their "vital interests" do not overlap.
  3. Heather.
  4. Erika.

Rhododendrons look spectacular against the background of conifers.

Category: "Questions and Answers"

Question number 1. What is the difference between soil acidification before planting and with further care?

For basic training, it is important to ensure the long-term state of the acidic environment. This is possible with the help of organic substances that act slowly but over a long time, such as peat or coniferous humus. Mineral fertilizers and chemicals dissolve quickly and are washed out of the soil. This is why their impact is not long-term.

Question number 2. What preventive measures should be taken against diseases and pests?

Soil that is not acidic enough for rhododendrons leads to chlorosis, due to the fact that magnesium and iron become inaccessible. This leads to the weakening of the plant, which is affected by fungal diseases. It is enough to constantly maintain the necessary nutrient medium by introducing the following substances into the soil:

  • Acids: oxalic, citric, acetic.
  • A weak solution of battery waste - sulfuric acid.
  • In the people, the soil is acidified with the help of a weekly infusion of rye bread. Such feeding is a good yeast medium for beneficial microorganisms.

Diseases - powdery mildew, leaf spot, late blight, fusarium, verticillosis, etc. are caused by an incorrectly chosen place, planting thickening and lack of nutrients. You can reduce the likelihood of infection by performing all agronomic measures for caring for rhododendrons:

  1. Choose a place that is well ventilated, but protected from drafts, sufficiently lit, but not open, but slightly shaded.
  2. Prepare and acquire the correct potting mix and further maintain acidity and nutritional balance.
  3. "Do not get carried away" with nitrogen fertilizers, their excess provokes the growth of fungal pathogens.
  4. Conduct prophylactic spraying with copper-containing preparations, in the spring after removing the winter shelter and in the fall, before preparing for the cold.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when growing rhododendrons

Mistake # 1. Planting in neutral soil.

Leads to the weakening of rhododendrons due to the inaccessibility of nutrients, and as a result, instability to diseases and pests.

Mistake # 2.Excessive loosening of the soil.

Rhododendrons have a superficial root system that is easily damaged.For soil aeration and weed control, it is better to use peat mulching with low-lying or coniferous half-bed.

Mistake number 3.Selection of varieties that are not resistant to diseases.

Unfortunately, there are no varieties of rhododendrons that do not hurt at all. Thanks to breeders, you can choose varieties and hybrid forms that are more resistant to diseases than others. These include:

  • Japanese,
  • Schlippenbach,
  • Smirnova,
  • Sikhotinsky,
  • Vaseya,
  • Pointed,
  • Ledebour,
  • Largest,
  • Kochi,
  • Katevbinsky,
  • Canadian,
  • Kamchatsky,
  • Golden,
  • Yellow,
  • Caucasian.

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The most beautiful indoor flower rhododendron is known among gardeners under the name azalea. Taking care of this whim is a lot of hassle. Planting, reproduction, pruning - all actions are performed according to strict rules. If the rhododendron doesn't like something, it instantly reacts to it with a disease or dies altogether. Despite the difficulties of growing, rhododendron continues to conquer the hearts of flower growers with its graceful flowering, which is comparable in beauty to the flowering of roses.

how to grow rhododendron at home

Description

Rhododendron (Rhododéndron) is a genus of the heather family (Ericaceae). The genus of rhododendrons includes a wide variety of plants; according to various sources, there are about 600 species. Among them are both evergreen and deciduous. Rhododendrons are represented by trees or erect and creeping shrubs, which are grown both outdoors and in houses and greenhouses. Indoor azaleas are small bushes also related to rhododendrons. This name is partly true: before, azaleas stood out as a separate species. Now they are classified as rhododendron species, but some gardeners habitually call all indoor species azalea, and outdoor ones rhododendrons.

The habitat of the plant is the temperate climatic zone of the Northern Hemisphere (humid alpine forests). Trees from 10 cm to 10 m are found in China, Japan, North America. Some species grow in Australia and New Guinea. In Russia, they live in the Caucasus and the Far East. In their natural environment, rhododendrons grow both in thickets and one by one, they prefer moisture in the soil and air, shading.

how to grow rhododendron at home

A feature for which rhododendron fell in love with flower growers is winter flowering. Under good conditions, it lasts two months - from February to March, sometimes in May. Rhododendron blooms annually, but attention and dexterity are required to keep the bush for the next season. Rhododendron flowers are collected in inflorescences in the form of a brush or brush. The color palette - from snow-white to deep red, there are shades of pink, lilac, purple and even yellow. The shape of the flowers is bell-shaped, tubular, funnel-shaped, some flowers have a pleasant aroma.

The name of the plant comes from the Greek words "rhodon" and "dendron", which mean "rose" and "flower". Hence the name - "rosewood". The first attempt to breed rhododendron in Europe was made in the 18th century, but the bushes brought from India were not given proper care and they died. In the 19th century, the attempt was crowned with success: the sea captain Wellbank brought from India the ancestor of all known azalea varieties.

Views

Azalea is represented by more than 2 thousand varieties. At home, two types of rhododendron are cultivated:

  • Indian rhododendron, or simsi (Rododendron simsii). This plant is the progenitor of indoor varieties. Its natural habitat is humid mountain forests. Indian azalea hybrids come in a variety of colors, from whites and creams to vibrant pinks and reds. There are yellow flowers, as well as two-color ones.

how to grow rhododendron at home

  • Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron obtusum var. Japonicum) - the owner of not such large flowers as the Indian azalea (less than 5 cm in diameter). It is less common than Simsy and more troublesome to grow. The plant is sensitive to temperature changes.Flowers - white, lilac, red-orange. An interesting feature of the species: flowers of different shades can be found on the same tree.

how to grow rhododendron at home

In indoor conditions, mostly evergreen species of rhododendrons are grown, deciduous ones are less common. The average height of a bush growing indoors is from 30 to 50 cm, but standard trees sometimes stretch up to 1.3 m.Azalea flowers differ not only in color, but also in structure:

  • simple,
  • terry,
  • a flower in a flower with simple petals,
  • flower in a flower with more than 30 double petals.

Care

Before taking up the cultivation of azaleas, the florist must soberly assess his strength. Are you ready to devote time to the flower, creating the necessary conditions for it? Rhododendron does not forgive mistakes: it can bloom in a week, shed the buds, or dry out altogether. Rescuing him is an even more difficult task.

Interesting fact
The older the azalea, the more spectacular and magnificent it blooms.

how to grow rhododendron at home

How to tame rhododendron at home? Start by posting it:

  1. The plant does not like bright light. Place it out of direct sunlight. A northern or western window sill, loggia will do.
  2. Miss Cleanliness magazine advises avoiding places in the vicinity of heaters and radiators. Dry air is harmful to the plant.
  3. Starting in April, start accustoming the rhododendron to the air by taking the flowerpot outside. Place the plant in the shade of trees or under a canopy. In the fresh air, the bush will comfortably stand until the end of August.
  4. The room where the rhododendron lives must be regularly ventilated. But sharp fluctuations in temperature should not be allowed, this will lead to the death of bud ovaries.

During the year, the rhododendron goes through the stages of growth, flowering and dormancy. Each period requires different care. And the azalea needs to be prepared for flowering. Buying rhododendron in stores, people often throw it away after flowering, consider it a bouquet plant. But if everything is done correctly, then it will be possible to admire the winter flowering of the rose tree for more than one season.

Moisture, watering, fertilization

The flowering of rhododendron is badly affected by dry air and high temperatures. Allowable temperatures up to + 19 ° C, best of all - from 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. Flowering will last only in a cool place: at temperatures up to + 12 ° C - 2 months, at temperatures up to +19 - 2 weeks. In autumn, during bud formation, it is better to lower the temperature to + 6 ° C, and raise it just before flowering. To neutralize the effect of heating systems, you need to spray the rhododendron in the evenings with soft water at least 2 times a week.

Rhododendrons love high humidity. During the growth period, abundant watering is required; during the rest period, it is reduced to moderate. The soil in the pot must be completely moistened and not allowed to dry out. Water the plant in the morning with soft filtered or settled water, directing the stream to the root. If some of the water has not been absorbed into the soil, it must be drained from the sump after 15 minutes. So that the rhododendron is not hot, it is poured with melt water, and pieces of ice are spread around the edges of the pot. A good move is to place a container with water or wet moss next to the pot.

how to grow rhododendron at home

If you accidentally let the soil dry out in a pot with rhododendron, you will need resuscitation. First way: put the pot in water for 4 hours. During this time, the plant and soil are sufficiently saturated with moisture. After 3-4 days, regular watering resumes. The second way is to arrange souls for the plant. Water temperature - up to + 30 ° C.

Advice
Water the plant only with soft, settled water.

The peculiarity of caring for a rose tree is daily feeding. Liquid complex fertilizer is sold especially for rhododendron. During each watering, a certain amount of fertilizer is added to the water. This amount is calculated by dividing the monthly rate by the number of waterings. When the buds are formed, it will not be superfluous to add classic dressings, making them 1 time in 20 days.

Bush formation, transplantation, reproduction

To maintain abundant flowering, you need to cut the flowers immediately after they wilt. After the end of the flowering period, all weak elongated shoots are removed. Healthy twigs are pruned by 5 cm. Such pruning will help to form new strong shoots for the rhododendron. After this procedure, you need to transplant the plant into a new larger pot. After 2-3 weeks, when 3 pairs of leaves appear on young shoots, they need to pinch the tops. The procedure is repeated until the buds appear (about mid-summer), then the side shoots are pinched.

how to grow rhododendron at home

A transplant is needed for young plants annually, for adults (after 3 years) - every two years. Signs that it is time to transplant the rhododendron: the roots are entwined with a lump of soil, moss appears on the surface. For planting, it is better to purchase a special soil for azaleas, since it is difficult to make it yourself: you need a mixture of coniferous soil, peat and sand. It is better to take a ceramic flowerpot for a plant, microscopic pores in its walls will provide air access to the roots. Do not forget about the drainage layer at the bottom of the flowerpot.

Reproduction of rhododendrons is done by stem cuttings. The time for their separation is summer, the temperature is from +20 to +25 degrees. Cuttings are selected 6 cm long, semi-lignified, 4-5 months old, and cut at an angle. Before planting, the lower leaves must be cut off from the cuttings, the cut is processed with a growth stimulator. The seedlings are placed in the ground by 1-2 cm, covered with a film and left until rooting for 1.5 months, periodically airing. When it takes root, the plant is transplanted into soil for azaleas.

Growing difficulties

Florists face the following problems:

  1. Yellow leaves. Most likely, there is not enough water in the ground. In addition, rhododendron loves lemon: add a couple of drops of juice when watering.
  2. Short flowering. Possible reasons: lack of moisture in the soil, low air humidity, direct sunlight. What to do: Increase watering, spray the bush, place it away from the heating system.
  3. Leaves wrinkle. This is due to lack of moisture, high temperatures and poor shading. Solution: Increase watering, increase air humidity, and shade the plant.
  4. Septoria is a fungal disease. Sign - rusty or brownish-gray spots on the leaves, in a neglected situation - the death of foliage. The plant will be saved by spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

how to grow rhododendron at home

The rhododendron growing in the apartment repels small insects like ants. But some pests still attack the rose tree:

  1. Shaggy aphid. First it settles on young shoots, then moves to the leaves. The plant is easy to treat: wipe it with a sponge dipped in soapy water. After a week, it is allowed to spray the bush with soapy water or a pharmacy tincture of calendula.
  2. The tarzanemus mite is a more serious problem. It is difficult to see it with the naked eye. Signs that the tick has settled on buds, flowers and leaves: leaf plates brighten, shoots curl. The dominance of ticks leads to a lack of flowering. The folk method of dealing with the pest: prepare an infusion of wood ash (for 500 g of ash - 10 liters of water). Let the mixture sit for a day, strain and spray or wipe the bush. Repeat the procedure once a week, three treatments are enough.

When caring for rhododendrons, it must be borne in mind that their stems contain toxic substances. Wear protective gloves and restrict access to the azalea flowerpot for children and pets. If you eat a leaf, then there will be lacrimation, poisoning, vomiting. Some flowers have a strong odor, which often causes allergic reactions: skin rashes, headaches.

Rhododendron in the open field

Indoor azaleas and garden rhododendrons are similar in agricultural technology:

  1. For planting in open ground, a shady place is chosen, preferably near a pond or stream.If there are no reservoirs on the site, then the air humidity must be maintained by placing a basin of water next to the tree. With a close occurrence of groundwater, the plant is planted on an elevated plot of land.
  2. A garden rhododendron needs morning watering and evening spraying, just like a room one. In dry weather, it is advisable to apply up to 10 liters of water under each bush.
  3. In rainy autumn weather, watering is not needed.
  4. The soil must not be loosened so as not to damage the roots. Weeding is done by hand only.
  5. In the middle lane for the winter, the rhododendron is covered with burlap. It is filmed in the spring after the snow melts. In warm areas, the rosewood hibernates without shelter.

how to grow rhododendron at home

Interesting Facts

A few facts that the rhododendron really won the hearts of plant lovers:

  1. It is called not only an azalea, but also an alpine or English rose.
  2. There are varieties with flowers up to 20 cm in diameter.
  3. Rhododendron is a medicinal plant used in folk and traditional medicine. The main 4 species with healing properties: golden, Caucasian, Sagan-daila and Daurian rhododendrons. In the traditional medicine of Tibet, the plant is anti-inflammatory and antifungal, as well as a tonic. Leaves, flowers and stems are used.
  4. In different countries there is a unique culture of growing rhododendron. So, in India, meter lush flowers are cultivated. And in Japan, a whole trend in the art of bonsai appeared - the formation of amazing trees from rhododendron bushes.
  5. Rhododendron in the wild is an early spring honey plant.
  6. Some growers are sure that the plant in the house has its own symbolism. Rhododendron has a powerful positive energy, maintains harmonious relationships in the family, restores mutual understanding after minor quarrels. It is recommended to cultivate people with increased fatigue, sleep problems.

Growing rhododendron both at home and in the garden is not an easy task, but an exciting one. The sake of chic lush buds is worth the work. With proper care, azalea becomes an adornment of any room. Blooming rhododendron in the house is a sign of the high skill of the florist.

Azaleas are prized for their abundance and beauty of flowering. Photos with beautiful flowers do not leave anyone indifferent, and flower growers have a desire to admire such beauty live. In addition, buds bloom in winter, when bright colors are especially lacking. Planting and growing indoor rhododendron at home requires knowledge and strict adherence to the rules for caring for a flower. But even the capriciousness of the azalea will not hurt to take care of it and the novice grower, who really decided to grow this plant.

Description of the plant

Azalea, often found commercially as indoor rhododendron, is a member of the Rhododendron genus, which belongs to the Heather family. Although this division is rather arbitrary. Azaleas are compact evergreens suitable for home cultivation. Rhododendrons differ in that they shed their leaves for the winter and, due to their large dimensions, are used only in landscape design.

The dimensions of rhododendrons sometimes reach impressive sizes

The name of the plant was given by the famous Swedish botanist and systematizer Karl Linnaeus. Translated from Greek, it means "dry". This is what an azalea looks like before flowering.

Europe got acquainted with azaleas a long time ago, at the end of the 17th century. However, this plant began to be widely cultivated only after 50 years. And the first breeding hybrids appeared only two centuries later. In Russia, the plant appeared at the beginning of the 20th century.

Europeans believe that blooming azalea brings happiness to the house. Therefore, those who grow it are sure to try to have a pot with a bush densely covered with bright buds on the Christmas table.

In nature, azaleas are compact, low shrubs.Most often they can be found in Southeast Asia, Japan and China. But some species live in Western Europe, USA, Russia (Caucasus, Far East, Eastern Siberia).

The azalea bush is characterized by intense branching. Young shoots are densely covered with a short "hair" of a grayish or light brown color; as they mature, they become smooth. The leaves are small (2.5–4 cm in length), ellipsoid or lanceolate, densely pubescent from the inside. They are thin, but tough, smooth to the touch, dark green, glossy shiny. Flowers on very short pedicels are located in the axils of the leaves of 2-6 pieces.

Most species of azaleas are found in Southeast Asia.

Azalea buds open on New Year's Eve or immediately after it. There are so many of them that the leaves are practically invisible. Flowering continues until mid-spring. Azaleas bloom annually when they reach the age of 3-4 years.

In shape, the flowers that open are similar to bells. They have five or six petals, but breeders have bred semi-double and double hybrids. They added purple, brick, coral, lilac, dark purple (almost black) to natural shades (snow-white, pink, crimson, scarlet). Yellow is very rare, but there are no blue azaleas yet. There are also variegated petals (a white or pinkish background is covered with thin red strokes and stripes), as well as corrugated ones.

Blooming azalea is guaranteed not to go unnoticed

Caution, poisonous plant

All parts of the plant are poisonous! They contain substances that cause muscle cramps and negatively affect the central nervous system. However, in the East, they learned to "squeeze lemonade out of lemon", after pretreatment using the stems, leaves and flowers of azaleas for the treatment of certain diseases, in particular, cardiac arrhythmia, tachycardia, hypertension, barley on the eye, nail fungus.

Video: the appearance of azaleas

Types popular with amateur flower growers (homebush, Indian, Japanese, jasmine, vogel mix, nabucco and others)

The most popular garden varieties of azaleas are:

  • azalea homebush. Shrub, reaching a height of 1 m. Flowers are double, crimson-pink. Blooms profusely in May-June. The variety is able to withstand low temperatures;
  • white azalea resembles a jasmine bush (which is why it is sometimes called jasmine). The plant reaches 60 cm in height. Flowers are double or non-double, except for white, they are found with a pink tint. An interesting feature of the plant is that when planted next to azaleas of other varieties, jasmine can change color;
  • azalea nabucco has considerable growth - up to 2 m. The crown is spreading, flowers are wide open, bright red.

Of the whole variety of azaleas, only two have successfully adapted to home conditions:

  • Indian azalea, she is Sims rhododendron. A compact bush about 0.5 m high. Young shoots are densely covered with reddish-brown stiff hairs, like the underside of the leaves, but the “pile” on it is soft. Leaves 3–3.5 cm long, ovate, located on short petioles. Flowers 4–5 cm in diameter bloom at the same time. Depending on the climatic conditions of the habitat, the shade of the petals varies from white to scarlet. Sometimes variegated flowers are found in nature;
  • Japanese azalea, or blunt rhododendron. At home, it is much less common than Indian azalea. The height of the bush is 40-60 cm. An adult plant is very similar to a dense "pillow". Leaves about 5 cm long, flowers 3–3.5 cm in diameter. Differs in frost resistance, withstanding temperatures down to -20 ° C. Therefore, after flowering, it is quite possible to plant it in open ground, even in central Russia. The buds bloom at the same time as the leaves, or even earlier. The petals most often have an orange tone - they can be salmon, brick, cinnamon or red orange peel. Indian azalea is the basis for most breeders' experiments

Home cultivars

Most of the flowers that stand on the windowsills are selective hybrids derived from the Indian azalea. The most popular ones are:

  • Snowflake. The bush is characterized by intense branching. It is appreciated for its resistance to various fungal and bacterial diseases. The flowers are non-double, mauve, large (5-7 cm in diameter). The petals are covered with small specks of brick color;
  • Albert-Elizabeth. Flowering begins in February. Very large flowers with a diameter of 8-9 cm. Petals are snow-white or pale pink with a wide crimson or bright crimson border and corrugated edges;
  • Celestine. Sprawling bush, buds open in early spring or even later. Flowers are non-double, bright crimson, 6–7 cm in diameter;
  • Starfish. On the bases of the snow-white petals, it was as if they had shaken off the crimson paint from the brush;
  • Melina. The hybrid is based on Japanese azalea. The height of the plant is up to 30 cm, the diameter of the bush is 60 cm. The leaves are cast silvery-gray. The flowers are small (5 cm), in different shades of pink. The edges of the petals are strongly corrugated;
  • Madame Joly. Deciduous variety. The height of the shrub is about 1.5 m. The flowers are simple, pink. The bases of the petals are yellow-orange. Blooms in late spring;
  • Czardas. The height of the bush is about 1 m. The buds open in April. The petals have a very rare creamy yellow tint. The flowers are double, they spread a pleasant aroma. The hybrid is very picky about sunlight, with its deficit, the diameter of the flowers decreases, the brightness of the petals decreases markedly;
  • Satan. Plant height - up to 1.5 m. Very bright non-double flowers with flame-colored petals. Against the general scarlet background, yellow reflections seem to dance. This is especially noticeable on the inside;
  • Slavka. The height of the bush is 1.2–1.5 m. The crown, even without pruning, takes the shape of an almost regular ball. The flowers are snow-white, with two corollas, one of which seems to be inserted into the other;
  • Golden Lights. Differs in abundance of flowering and frost resistance. The petals are golden yellow. Flowers 6–7 cm in diameter. Plant height - about 1 m;
  • Azure. Flowers with a diameter of more than 10 cm. The color of the petals is very rich, blackberry, on the inside there are bright crimson specks;
  • Koichiro Wada. Chameleon hybrid. The unopened buds are crimson-pink, the flowers themselves are much paler. They gradually change color to white. The variety is characterized by frost resistance and relative unpretentiousness.

Photo Gallery: Hybrid Azaleas

How to create optimal conditions for a plant

Azalea is not well adapted to the microclimate of modern apartments, especially when heating batteries are working there. Therefore, the florist will have to try to create conditions suitable for her and maintain them.

Table: the necessary microclimate for growing azaleas in room conditions (temperature, spraying, lighting)

Azalea loves bright light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

How to plant and transplant

When transplanting, you should be careful, it is better to work with gloves, not forgetting about the toxicity of the plant.

Time and reasons for transplant

Azalea grows rather quickly and branches intensively, so young plants need an annual transplant. For adults, one procedure is enough every 2-3 years, when the roots are tightly braided with an earthen ball or a layer of moss appears on the surface of the soil. You can transplant the plant immediately after flowering.

Pot selection

The root system of azaleas is superficial, so they do not need a large and deep pot. The best option is a container that looks like a salad bowl or a soup plate.

The azalea pot should be shallow

Soil composition

Azaleas prefer an acidic substrate, which is quite unusual for indoor plants (pH 4.5–5.0). It is maintained at the desired level by watering the flower with a 0.2% citric acid solution or aspirin (a tablet in 1 tbsp. Water) every 5-6 weeks. Other soil requirements are nutritional value, fiber, looseness and good aeration.There is a ready-made soil on sale designed specifically for rhododendrons (most often, pure heather soil), but you can also prepare it yourself from coniferous soil, peat chips and coarse river sand (6: 3: 1).

Azalea soil can be purchased at the store, but experienced flower growers prefer to prepare it themselves.

How to transplant an azalea

The step-by-step transplant process is as follows:

  1. Remove the old plant from the pot, trying to destroy the earth ball as little as possible. This is easier if the soil is moderately watered for about 30–45 minutes.
  2. With a sharp disinfected knife, cut off about 1.5–2 cm of the fringe at the bottom of the earthen coma. You can also make shallow cuts on the sides and fluff the roots slightly.
  3. Pour expanded clay or other drainage material into a new pot with a layer of at least 3 cm. On top - about the same amount of new substrate.
  4. Place the earthen clod in a new container, add fresh soil. Gently shake the pot a few times to distribute the soil evenly.
  5. Water the plant liberally. The best option is to immerse it in a bowl of room temperature water for 45-60 minutes, then let the excess moisture drain off.
  6. Place the pot in a wide planter, filling the space between the walls with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. As it dries, it needs to be moistened.
  7. The roots of the azalea will gradually be exposed - this is a natural process. To prevent them from drying out, mulch the soil in a pot with peat chips, wood chips, sawdust, and pine needles every 4–6 months.

Azalea is transplanted using the transshipment method

Features of the transplant after purchase

Florists advise replanting the azalea immediately after purchase. This must be done due to the fact that plants, as a rule, are in the transport soil and are treated with various synthetic substances to preserve their presentation. However, azalea is often bought in bloom, and transplanting in this state is difficult for the plant to tolerate. Therefore, the choice remains with the florist.

How to properly care for a plant

Azalea at home can be preserved for a long time only if you carefully follow all the recommendations for caring for the flower.

Watering: when, how, how much

The substrate in the container with the plant should always be slightly damp. Both overdrying (even short-term) of the soil and stagnant moisture in the pot are equally destructive for the flower. It alternates between the usual watering from a watering can with a long narrow spout and the immersion method. After 4–5 hours, the excess moisture must be drained from the pallet.

Most often, orchids are watered by immersion, but this method is also quite suitable for azaleas.

Under optimal conditions for azaleas, one watering every two days is sufficient. In extreme heat, their number can reach two per day. The plant does not like very warm water, it is enough to warm it up to room temperature. For sanitary purposes and to increase air humidity, it is useful to spray the azalea and the surrounding air from a fine spray bottle weekly or even twice a week (except for the flowering period).

Water is used exclusively soft, ideally rain or thawed. The tap water must be defended for at least a day with the addition of citric acid or apple cider vinegar (until a precipitate forms in the form of whitish or grayish flakes), passed through a filter or boiled.

Top dressing: what fertilizers will be needed

Top dressing of azaleas is required from late spring to mid-summer, as well as during bud formation, at the end of flowering and at the beginning of active growth. When new flower buds are laid, natural organic matter (infusions of cow dung and poultry droppings), alternating with complex mineral fertilizers, is most useful. It is enough to feed the plant once every 20–25 days. Forming buds love superphosphate (1.5 g per 1 liter of water). Azaleas are watered with a solution twice with an interval of 7-10 days.The rest of the time, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers (2 g per 1 liter of water) are suitable.

There are special fertilizers for azaleas, the feeding solution is prepared strictly according to the instructions.

Azalea does not like chlorine very much, so carefully study the composition before purchasing a specific product.

Pruning

The more lush the bush, the fewer buds are formed on it. Therefore, adult plants are cut off immediately after flowering, leaving 4–5 leaves on all branches formed last year. Shoots that violate the configuration of the crown, curved, poorly growing - cut to the base. Young shoots near the buds that are being laid are carefully plucked out.

Azalea grows quickly, so it needs regular pruning.

Formation of a tree at the headquarters (bonsai)

With the help of pruning, you can create a tree with a trunk about 20-30 cm high. To do this, choose the strongest and evenest shoot, getting rid of all the others. It is fixed in an upright position, tied to a support and turning the pot every 2-3 days. All lateral growth is immediately removed. When the stem reaches the desired height, pinch the tip of the shoot. From the shoots that appeared then choose 4–6, located at an equal distance from each other around the trunk. Then you can form 2-3 more tiers.

The azalea tree looks very impressive, but requires constant attention from the grower.

It is much easier to form a beautiful bush. Pinch a young azalea at a height of 10-15 cm. The same is done with the shoots appearing every year until the plant takes the shape of a regular ball or close to it.

Bloom

To maximize the spectacle pleasing to the eye, it is recommended to cover the pot of azalea with ice or snow. This inhibits the development of leaf buds, it practically does not grow, respectively, and the flowers last longer.

As soon as the buds wilt, they are immediately removed. After the end of flowering, be sure to cut off the resulting "boxes" so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening seeds.

If you cover the pot with ice, you can achieve a longer flowering of the azalea.

Dormant period

In mid-November or early December, azaleas begin a dormant period lasting one and a half to two months. The "resting" azaleas are watered very carefully, exclusively through the pallet, sprayed no more than once every two weeks (it is better not the plants themselves, but the air around them). It is imperative to lower the temperature of the content.

Frequent mistakes of a novice florist

Azalea is quite capricious and most often reacts to errors in care with the absence or short flowering, deformation of the buds. But there may be other alarming symptoms as well. Therefore, you need to learn how to correctly interpret the signals given by the plant.

Table: how the azalea reacts to mistakes in care (why the plant can dry out, shed leaves, look lethargic)

Loss of azalea leaves can be caused by low indoor humidity or inappropriate temperatures

What to do to resuscitate an azalea

Almost all problems that arise when breeding azaleas can be solved.

Azalea does not bloom

A plant will be able to bloom if the following factors are met:

  • low temperature during the dormant period (6-8оС), necessary for the formation of flower buds;
  • the plant should be shaded from direct lighting;
  • sufficient, but not excessive watering;
  • competent pruning;
  • fertilizing with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium;
  • the correct choice of a pot (shallow and low).

Leaves wither and fall

Leaves will crumble due to excessively dry air in the room. A working central heating system should be away from the azalea. Do not forget to spray the air, maintaining the necessary humidity (about 70%).

The plant dries up

Azalea can dry out due to several factors. To avoid this problem, you should:

  • adjust the feeding mode;
  • provide the plant with good lighting;
  • transplant carefully, without damaging the roots and leaves;
  • water and spray the air in a timely manner.

Azalea turns black

Perhaps this is a fungal disease, for example, fusarium, or a pest. To revive the bush, you will have to resort to the help of chemicals. Be prepared to repot the plant as well, as fresh soil will help the plant to recover.

Leaves curl, turn yellow

This is how the plant can react to the wrong substrate. If you are a novice florist, it is better not to make the mixture yourself, but to purchase the necessary soil in a specialized store. Apart from this reason, pay attention to the water used for irrigation - to irrigate azaleas you need a soft, room temperature.

Leaves wither

In this case, you also need to revise the feeding regime. Insufficient watering may be the reason for the drying of the leaves. You need to lower the pot into a container filled with water.

Video: the difficulties of growing azaleas

How to protect azaleas from pests

Azalea has a specific pest - the azalea moth. But this does not mean that it is not attacked by other insects, which are not stopped even by the poisonousness of the plant. However, pathogenic fungi are the most dangerous for a flower.

A number of simple preventive measures will help to significantly reduce the risk of infection:

  • placing newly acquired plants in quarantine for at least a month;
  • placing indoor flowers and bouquets as far apart as possible, if possible in different rooms;
  • regular airing of the room and spraying of azaleas (with the exception of the flowering period);
  • strict adherence to recommendations for plant care, especially those related to watering and feeding;
  • using only sterilized soil, clean pots and tools;
  • Weekly irradiation of azalea leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes.

Table: how to save azalea from diseases and pests

Photo gallery: photos of common diseases and pests

Reproduction of a flower at home

It is rather difficult to propagate azaleas at home. This applies to all methods.

Azalea reproduces at home rather reluctantly, this does not add to its popularity among flower growers.

How to root cuttings

The most suitable time for cuttings is late spring-early summer.

Before planting, azalea cuttings must be treated with a root formation stimulant

Rooting cuttings: a step-by-step process

  1. Cut off young, semi-lignified shoots at an angle of approximately 45º with a sharpened, clean knife. Remove the leaves from the bottom half. The optimal cutting length is 5–8 cm.
  2. Sprinkle the wounds with any powdery root stimulant (Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin) or dip the planting material for 5-6 hours in a solution of one of the preparations.
  3. For rooting, plant the cuttings in containers filled with a mixture of peat chips, perlite, vermiculite, deepening 1–2 cm. Cover them with transparent bags, cut plastic bottles or glass caps.
  4. Place the pots in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 ° C, provide bottom heating and bright, but diffused light. As it dries, spray the soil with water warmed to room temperature and air the plantings daily for 1–2 hours.
  5. Roots should appear in 1.5–2 months. When the azalea gives 2-3 new leaves, transplant it into an unheated container filled with coniferous soil.
  6. After 2-3 months, pinch the top of the bush for more intensive branching. If buds appear, remove them.
  7. In the coming spring, transplant into a soil suitable for adult plants, care as usual.

Video: how to propagate an azalea by cuttings

Graft

The method is used mainly for rare varieties or for those that are difficult to root. A sprout of another, less capricious azalea 15–20 cm long with well-developed roots is used as a stock. The presence of an "eye" (growth point) on both cuttings is required.

  1. Using a sharp, disinfected razor blade, make oblique cuts of approximately the same length, no more than 0.5 mm deep, in the rootstock and scion.
  2. Align the mother plant and the stalk, wrap with plastic.
  3. Place the azalea in a mini home greenhouse or under a large glass jar in soil suitable for mature plants.
  4. Do not let the soil dry out, ventilate the plant daily. The bottom heating is not needed, but a bright diffused light and a temperature of about 25 ° C are required.
  5. As soon as the scion starts growing, remove the cover. Gradually (about a month) accustom the azalea to its usual conditions.

The container put on the pot with the grafted azalea should not touch the plant itself

Germinating seeds

At home, this method is rarely used. Azalea seeds do not ripen due to the fact that the capsules with them are cut off immediately after flowering. In addition, such plants do not always retain varietal characteristics - the shade of the petals and their doubleness. It makes sense to purchase only seeds harvested a maximum of three months before purchase.

To grow an azalea from seeds, you need the following algorithm of actions:

  1. Fill shallow containers with peat chips. It needs to be moistened with a spray bottle and leveled.
  2. In early spring, sow the seeds without sprinkling them with soil.
  3. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap, put it on the sunniest window sill. Provide bottom heating.
  4. Air the plantings daily and spray the substrate with warm soft water.
  5. The first shoots will appear in 10-12 days, mass shoots - in 20-25. On average, 7 out of 10 seeds germinate.
  6. When the first pair (fake leaves) is fully unfolded, open the azaleas by planting them 3-4 cm apart. Bring them down to the very leaves.
  7. At the end of summer, move the seedlings into individual 5–7 cm diameter pots filled with soil suitable for mature plants.

Florist reviews

Azalea or indoor rhododendron is a plant that is not yet often found on window sills. Perhaps this is due to difficulties in leaving. Indeed, the culture is quite demanding, but the time and energy devoted to it is more than offset by the brightness and abundance of flowering.

27 years old, higher education in law, broad outlook and interest in a variety of topics.

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