How to grow seedlings at home?

Growing

seedlings

- an exciting process, and it causes a lot of emotions. Some gardeners are delighted with it, the second treat it as an obligatory stage of growing plants, others cannot stand it and avoid it in every possible way, but all together understand: in our latitudes, it is simply impossible to grow many beautiful and useful plants on your site without seedlings.

Growing seedlings is a fun process

Seedlings should be beautiful and healthy: strong and stocky, with a well-developed root system and a thick, sturdy stem. Everyone can grow this, and for this one does not need any special skills, the main thing is desire and a little knowledge. If you already have all this, then the only thing that can get in the way is the mistakes made by summer residents when growing seedlings.

And these mistakes can cost you seedlings: it can stretch out, get sick and eventually die. Then the time, and the money for the purchase of seed, will turn out to be a pointless waste. Better, let's learn together from other people's mistakes and draw appropriate conclusions.

Mistake 1: using low-quality seeds

Buying poor quality seeds is the first, most significant and common mistake when growing seedlings. after all, the result will first of all depend on the quality of the seeds. The desire to save money is understandable, but be careful: it can let you down! At best, poor-quality seeds will grow weak plants, but at worst, nothing will grow at all.

Seeds must be of high quality

Therefore, save wisely - buy seeds from reputable companies from trusted suppliers. The packages must indicate the number of seeds inside - in grams or pieces, their expiration date and batch number. For comprehensive information on how to choose quality seeds, see article 7 essential rules for choosing seeds. It is also helpful to find out which 10 mistakes in seed selection are the most common, and avoid them.

You can find answers to other important questions in the articles:

• Top 5 Questions and Answers About Seeds
• What every summer resident should know about seeds
• Your seeds: how to grow, collect, save
• 10 rules for buying seeds
• How to buy seeds online
• Discussing seed producers. Top 5 at the end of 2017
• Terms of storage and sowing, conditions for germination of vegetable seeds
• Plasma, inlaid and 6 more types of unusual seeds
• 3 common seed myths among gardeners

Mistake 2: poor planting soil

The use of soil mixtures of poor or unsuitable quality for growing seedlings can slow down its development and even lead to death. You can't just go to the garden, collect land and sow seeds in it - this is thoughtless and wrong. After all, for example, for seedlings

cabbage

you cannot use the land on which Cruciferous plants were previously grown: that it probably contains infections characteristic of cabbage crops, and you can destroy your seedlings already at the initial stage of its cultivation. How to be?

Seedling soil is very important

You can prepare the seedling potting soil with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made product - the main thing is that it is suitable. That is, made up of a number of special components: sod land, peat, humus, and so on, taken in the right ratio, which depends on the selected crops. The components of the mixture (as well as ready-made purchased soil) are necessary cold treat, to destroy pathogens, and - to awaken beneficial microflora - with the drug "Baikal". The article How to prepare the soil for growing seedlings will tell you about the different methods of tillage and the composition of soil mixtures.

Mistake 3: inappropriate container for seedlings

Using unsuitable containers for seedlings - too heavy, loose; too large or, conversely, tight; poorly drained and other poor-quality or poorly chosen containers can also kill plants. Not having time to sprout, the seeds will rot, and even if you are lucky and some of the seedlings still sprout, it is not a fact that they will be able to develop normally when the root system is in unfavorable conditions.

The result depends on the correct choice of container for seedlings.

You can read about what containers can and should be used to grow healthy and strong seedlings in the article Paper honeycombs, peat tablets and 13 more options for seedling containers). And this video will teach you how to make your own peat tablets:

Mistake 4: lack of seedbed preparation

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important point that farmers often do not pay enough attention to, but in vain. Sowing unprepared seeds can also cause the death of young seedlings. This is especially true for seeds of our own production, but it is also true for purchased untreated seeds.

Before sowing, the seeds should be treated

What is the reason for this? A significant part of infectious diseases, for example, the same vegetable crops, is transmitted not only with soil, but also with untreated seeds... The lack of preparation directly affects both germination and subsequent development of plants. You can get acquainted in detail with the rules and procedures for pre-sowing preparation by reading the article How to carry out pre-sowing preparation of seeds and watching a selection of videos on the same topic. We talked about seed germination and how to check it in this article.

Mistake 5: Attempting to "improve" a seed-treated seed

An attempt to "improve" the sowing quality of seeds already treated by the producer can lead to very sad consequences. At the very least, it will negate all the benefits of your purchase. In the worst case, as a result of such diligence, the seeds may lose their germination.

Attempting to improve the treated seed may result in a loss of germination. Information on the seedbed treatment performed can be found on the back of the seed package. Some types of processing (for example, pelleting) can also be identified visually.You can learn more about the methods of industrial processing of seeds, about their features and benefits from the article Plasma, inlaid and 6 more types of unusual seeds.

Mistake 6: failure to meet growing dates

Many novice farmers mistakenly believe that there is no need to comply with the terms of sowing and growing seedlings: just think, three weeks earlier or two weeks later - what, it would seem, is the difference when to sow seeds? Nevertheless, there is a difference, and it is significant.

It is very important to sow seedlings on time Failure to meet the deadlines will lead to the fact that the plants will turn out to be underdeveloped and may not take root after transplanting to a permanent place. The approximate time for sowing seeds for seedlings is always indicated by the manufacturer on the back of the package., so be guided by it. You will find a universal method for calculating the sowing dates for vegetable crops in the article When to sow vegetables for seedlings.

Mistake 7: over-burying seeds

Burying more seeds in the soil than required can cause them to not germinate at all or only a few will germinate, so don't overdo it when sowing! The seeding depth for most species is equal to 2 seed diameters... Do not forget that there are light-like seeds - they cannot be sprinkled with soil at all, because light is an important condition for their germination. Manufacturers, as a rule, also indicate information on the depth of planting seeds on the packaging.

Mistake 8: thickening crops

Another common mistake many gardeners make is thickened sowing of seeds, the consequences of which will be weak, elongated seedlings and not only. Thickened crops are much more likely to be affected by diseases. In addition, the seedlings simply do not have enough space for normal development, they lack nutrition and, as a result, develop unevenly, become very fragile, and stretch out.

You should not thicken crops if you want to get good seedlings.

Therefore, it is necessary to sow seeds at a sufficient distance from each other, so that the emerging plants have enough area for nutrition and during growth they do not compete with each other, constantly fighting for food, light and moisture. Of course, this distance will be different for each culture, therefore, in order not to be mistaken, take into account when sowing the seeding rates and agricultural techniques.

Mistake 9: watering after sowing

Watering the seeds, or rather the soil in which these same seeds are located, immediately after sowing, leads to the fact that the seeds, along with the water, are drawn into the depths of the soil. This means that they will germinate much longer, if they germinate at all (we have already talked about how important the correct sowing depth is).

The soil in the boxes for growing seedlings must be watered with water before sowing the seeds, while using room temperature water... If you need to moisten the soil after sowing, do it with a spray bottle. You can read about other irrigation devices and devices in the article Features of watering plants in a home garden.

Mistake 10: violation of growing conditions

One of the most serious mistakes in growing seedlings, the consequence of which is their death, is a violation of growing conditions: temperature, lighting, watering, and so on. You can read more about the conditions necessary for seedling in this useful article, but now we will consider only the results of violating some of them.

Watering

Insufficient watering will cause overdrying of the topsoil, as a result, swollen seeds will not be able to sprout, and those that have already sprung up will die. Therefore, it makes sense to cover containers with plants with foil or glass, which will prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface layer of the soil. After the emergence of seedlings, having removed the film, do not forget to water the seedlings in time, not allowing the earth to dry out.

It is necessary to water the seedlings on time and in moderation. Excessive watering, in turn, can cause root rot and damage to young plants by various diseases: black leg, root rot, and so on. Will lead to the death and development of various diseases and watering the seedlings with excessively cold, unsettled water... Water for irrigation should always be at room temperature - approximately + 20 ... + 24 ° С.

Lighting

Growing seedlings in low light, you run the risk of ruining it. The plants will become very fragile and elongated.

If the lighting is insufficient, the seedlings stretch out and weaken.

To ensure sufficient lighting, the seedling containers must be placed on a sunny - ideally southern - windowsill. Considering that the duration of daylight hours required for normal growth and development of plants is 12-14 hours, the seedlings need to be illuminated using phytolamps or fluorescent lamps for this. This is especially true for early sowing of seeds, even if containers with them are located on the southern windows.

To increase the effect of lighting, in containers with seedlings opposite the window, you need to install reflective foil screen - for example, made of thick cardboard covered with ordinary food foil.

Temperature

Too low a temperature, at best, will entail a slowdown in the growth of seedlings, but at worst - its death, if the seeds sprout at all. Therefore, the container with seedlings is better do not install on a cold windowsill, especially immediately after sowing, because the temperature inside this container will be about 10 ° C lower than the temperature in the room itself. It is because of the low temperature that you can never wait for seedlings.

How to be? Install the container with seedlings not directly on the windowsill, but on some kind of support so that there is at least a small gap between this container and the windowsill. Keep in mind that too high a temperature will also negatively affect the seedlings, which, under the influence of excessive heat, will stretch out.

Ideal temperature for seed germination cold-resistant crops are considered + 18 ... + 25 ° С, and for thermophilic crops - + 25 ... + 30 ° С. For the further normal development of most seedlings, a temperature of about +20 ° C is sufficient, therefore, after the seedlings have appeared, the temperature in the room where they are grown must be slightly reduced.

Mistake 11: underestimating the role of seedling feeding

Regardless of what kind of seedlings you grow, they need feeding. This is especially true for seedlings grown in small containers - for example, cassettes. To feed the seedlings, you can use various solutions of fertilizers at a low concentration.

Plants not only need water, but also fertilizer.

Before feeding, the soil in containers must be lightly watered with ordinary water so as not to burn the fragile roots with fertilizers.

Mistake 12: ignoring seedling diseases and not preventing them

Ignoring seedling diseases - root and root rot, black leg and others - will inevitably lead to the death of plants, therefore, it is impossible to hope for a miracle, that everything will go away by itself. As soon as you notice that something is wrong with the seedlings - it has become frail, its leaves fall off, the trunk darkens, other signs of trouble have appeared - it is necessary to stop the disease as soon as possible.

First, they diagnose, look for the causes, and then take measures to eliminate the problem. It is not possible to fully disclose the topic of seedling diseases and methods of dealing with them in this article - it is too extensive. Publications and comments on the questions of summer residents will help to understand it:

• Black leg of seedlings: we use folk remedies
• What are tomato seedlings sick with?
• What about tomato seedlings?
• What killed tomato seedlings?
• Why is there no growth point for tomato seedlings?
• The leaves of tomato seedlings are twisted "into a knot". Tell me, is it a disease?
• The leaves of the pepper turned white after they were planted in the greenhouse.Should you worry?
• What kind of pest or disease in eggplant and pepper seedlings?

And for prevention, try to take care of the seedlings in advance: prepare an infection-free soil mixture with the addition of "Trichodermin", "Glyokladin" or their analogues, treat the seeds before sowing, and regularly water the seedlings with the same "Trichodermin" or similar preparations, observe the growing conditions seedlings.

Mistake 13: late picking of seedlings and its consequences

Tightening up with a dive of seedlings, you contribute to the fact that the plants are stretched, become more fragile and frail, especially with thickened sowing. Most seedling plants it is necessary to dive when they have a second real leaf... This is done in order to increase the feeding area and give the plants the opportunity to evenly develop the aboveground part.

It is important to dive the plants in time.In the first 2-3 days after the dive, young seedlings must shade, protecting from direct sunlight... When diving, the plants are deepened to the cotyledons and (if possible) shorten their roots by about 1/3 of their length. It is not necessary to shorten the fleshy thick roots, damage to which will lead to the death of plants. For the first time, you can water the plants after picking for about 5 days, and feed them only after they begin to grow.

Of course, some plants should not be dived - this procedure will only slow down their growth. First of all, this concerns seedlings of cucumbers and peppers, which are sick for a long time after the pick. The seeds of such plants are necessary sow immediately in separate containers or, as needed, transfer more in containers along with a clod of earth, without violating the integrity of the root system.

Arguments "for" and "against" picking seedlings will help you understand this issue in more detail.

Mistake 14: neglecting hardening

Ignoring such an event as hardening can lead to the fact that your seemingly healthy and strong seedlings in the open field simply do not take root or the very first small frosts will destroy it. therefore a few days before planting in a permanent place, the seedlings must be hardened... Note that this should be done gradually, every day slightly increasing the time during which the plants are outdoors.

Mistake 15: overgrown seedlings

Overgrowing, the seedlings stretch out and weaken. But the problem of overgrown seedlings is not even that it is more difficult to transplant it to a permanent place (especially for tall tomato seedlings, which, outgrowing, begins to break down during transplantation), but that it does not take root well.

It is very important to plant seedlings on time.If the time for planting seedlings in the ground has approached, and due to some circumstances, you cannot plant them in a permanent place,limit watering... Of course, you don't need to completely abandon it - just try to reduce the frequency of watering and the amount of water, making sure that the soil does not dry out. It is also possible to suspend the growth of seedlings by hardening, because a decrease in air temperature also causes delays in plant growth.

You may also find the following resources helpful:

• 7 questions and answers about healthy seedlings
• Once again, briefly about seedlings
• Reproduction and planting: growing seedlings
• How to properly plant seedlings in open ground
• When to plant vegetable seedlings in the ground and in greenhouses
• How to water seedlings when planting in the ground
• Useful tools for growing seedlings

Well, that's all, probably)) Have you ever made mistakes when growing seedlings? What conclusions did you draw from them, what did you learn? It is not for nothing that they say that it is better to learn from other people's mistakes - let's share our experience in order to warn each other against possible failures.

Healthy tomato seedlings are a guarantee of a bountiful tomato harvest.The mistakes that beginner gardeners make at the stage of sowing seeds and growing seedlings will certainly affect the fruiting of an adult plant. There can be no trifles in this matter! Let's try to figure out all the stages of growing tomato seedlings, starting with determining the timing of sowing and ending with planting bushes in open ground (in boxes - if growing on a balcony).

When to sow tomatoes for seedlings?

Roughly, tomato seeds should be sown 55-65 days before planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse. Seeds sprout pretty quickly - 5-10 days after sowing. Therefore, the average period of keeping seedlings on the windowsill (from the emergence of seedlings) is 45-60 days.

It is important to correctly determine the timing so as not to overexpose the seedlings on the windowsill. This is fraught with inhibition of the growth of an adult bush and a decrease in yield.

Average tomato sowing time:

• in the southern regions of Russia and in Ukraine - from February 20 to March 15 (disembarkation in the OG - from April 15 to May 20);
• in the central regions of Russia - from March 15 to April 1 (disembarkation in the OG - from May 10 to early June);
• in the northern regions (Siberia, Urals) - from April 1 to 15 (landing in the OG - from May 25 to June 15).

To accurately answer the question of when to plant tomato seedlings, you need to know about the end date of spring frosts in your area. Counting from this period 55-65 days ago, you can accurately determine the date of the desired landing.

If you plan to plant tomato seedlings not in open ground, but in a greenhouse or on a glazed balcony, then sowing work can be started 2-3 weeks earlier.

Growing conditions for tomato seedlings

When growing tomato seedlings on a windowsill, create conditions for seedlings with:

• a lot of light - it is desirable that the windows face south, not shaded by trees (if there is a lack of natural lighting, artificial lighting with lamps is required);
• high humidity - spray tomato seedlings 1-2 times a day, use a humidifier, etc.;
• warm - during the day, the optimal temperature for tomato seedlings is 18-25 ° C, at night - 12-15 ° C.

Tomato seedlings: growing at home

Step 1. Preparatory work

Preparatory work may include:

• disinfection of seeds;
• preparation and disinfection of the soil.

Packaged seeds of well-known manufacturers do not need additional pre-sowing treatment. They have already passed the required disinfection at the enterprise. It is quite another matter if the tomato seeds used were collected with their own hands or bought by weight on the market. Such material can be infected with pathogens of various bacterial, viral and fungal diseases.

To eradicate the infection, use one of the following disinfecting solutions:

• 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 100 ml of water). Wrap the seeds in gauze and soak in this solution for 15-20 minutes. It is not recommended to keep it longer - seed germination decreases. After processing, rinse the seeds with water.
• 0.5% soda solution (0.5 g per 100 ml of water). Soak tomato seeds in it for 24 hours. In addition to disinfection, soda solution promotes earlier fruiting.
• Aloe juice solution (1: 1). Ready-made aloe juice can be purchased at a pharmacy or squeezed out of the leaves yourself (they are previously kept in the refrigerator for 5-6 days). Soak the seeds in aloe juice diluted in water for 12-24 hours. Tomatoes from seeds that have undergone such treatment are distinguished by increased immunity, improved yield and fruit quality.
• Fitosporin solution. When using liquid Fitosporin (in a bottle), prepare the solution as follows: dilute 1 drop of liquid in 100 ml of water. Prepare a solution of Fitosporin powder at the rate of 0.5 tsp. per 100 ml of water. Soak the seeds in the solution for 1-2 hours.

The soil can also be contaminated, especially if it is dug up from the garden. Safer soil bought packaged in flower shops.But even here unpleasant "surprises" can occur, so the best way to protect yourself (and seedlings!) From surprises is to cultivate the soil with your own hands.

The most popular ways to disinfect seedling soil:

• calcining in the oven (10-15 minutes at 180-200 ° C);
• warming up in the microwave (1-2 minutes at a power of 850);
• disinfection with boiling water (put soil in a pot with drainage holes and spill it in small portions of boiling water);
• disinfection with potassium permanganate (spill the soil with a strong solution of potassium permanganate).

Disinfection of tomato seeds in potassium permanganate

All these methods can be combined with each other to obtain the most sterile and safe soil for seedlings.

You should not start planting tomatoes for seedlings immediately after preparing the soil! Moisten it and keep it at a positive temperature for 10-12 days. During this time, bacteria beneficial to plants will begin to multiply in the sterile soil. Only then can sowing begin.

Step 2. Sowing tomatoes for seedlings

Fill the container (cassettes, peat pots, plastic cups, cottage cheese boxes, shallow boxes) with prepared moist soil and make grooves about 1 cm deep in it.The step between the grooves is 3-4 cm. Place the seeds in them at a distance of 1-2 see more. The less often the seeds are sown, the longer it will be possible to keep the seedlings in seedling containers without planting them. Sprinkle the grooves with soil.

Tomato seeds are sown into the ground to a depth of 1 cm

You can make it even easier: place the seeds on the prepared soil and cover them with a centimeter layer of soil.

Cover the top with foil or glass to ensure a constant microclimate for the seedlings with a humidity of about 80-90%. In order for the seeds to germinate, the temperature of their content should be 25-30 ° C. Therefore, place the seedling boxes near a radiator or other heat source.

Check soil moisture every day. When dry, spray generously with a spray bottle. In case of excessive moisture, open the film (glass) and wait until it dries. Sometimes, high humidity leads to the formation of mold on the surface of the soil. Then carefully remove the upper infected layer and spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate or an antifungal drug (Fundazole, Fitosporin).

The first seedlings of tomatoes appear in 3-4 days at a temperature of the above-ground air layer of 25-28 ° C, at 20-25 ° C - in 5-6 days, at 10-12 ° C - in 12-15 or more days after sowing.

Cotyledonous leaves of tomato seedlings emerging from the ground

More details about when to sow tomatoes for seedlings, how to choose tomato seeds and sow them correctly in the ground, is shown in the video:

Step 3. Care of tomato seedlings

Lighting

Growing tomato seedlings is impossible without good lighting! Therefore, after the emergence of seedlings, put the seedlings on the lightest windowsill. In February and early March, the light for the seedlings in any case will not be enough, therefore, if possible, use additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.

There is a version (author - Tugarova T.Yu.) that the best development of tomato seedlings can be achieved if the seedlings are illuminated around the clock for the first 2-3 days after germination. After that, you can switch to the usual supplementary lighting mode - 16 hours a day (the total duration of daylight hours).

Tomato seedlings under fluorescent lights

Humidity and watering

Young seedlings should be kept in high, almost extreme humidity; drying is unacceptable. Therefore, do not rush to immediately remove the film (glass) from the seed containers. Open it a little bit every day so that the seedlings get used to the fresh air, but at the same time remain in the "greenhouse". After 1-2 weeks, the shelter can be completely removed.

Tomato seedlings growing under the film at home may not need watering for a long time.Look at the condition of the soil: do not breed the swamp, but at the same time, do not let the top layer dry out (while the roots of the sprouts are still small and are in the upper layer of the soil, so drying it will mean drying out the roots). Watering tomato seedlings should be done carefully, under the stem. In order not to damage the sprouts, you can use a syringe (without a needle) or a pipette.

After removing the film, the frequency of watering tomato seedlings should be proportional to the amount of heat and light. With an increase in temperature and lengthening daylight hours, tomatoes begin to grow and quickly "drink" moisture from the ground. Accordingly, the soil dries out faster, watering is required more often.

It is important not to dry young tomatoes. Often inexperienced gardeners are faced with such a nuisance: in the evening, coming home from work, they notice their seedlings completely wilted, although in the morning they still looked quite normal. You need to check the seedlings in the morning, when there is still no hot sun. If you notice that the sprouts are a little sluggish, water them immediately. Otherwise, at noon, the rays of the sun can dry out the still weak young seedlings.

Bays can also be dangerous. It's bad that poured and dried tomato seedlings may look the same: the stems lose their turgor, the leaves wither. When you see such symptoms, pay attention to the soil. If it is wet, in no case add water - ruin the seedlings. Place the seedling container in a place protected from direct sunlight, do not water until the earth dries. In the future, adjust the amount of watering.

Cold window sills combined with moist soil are especially destructive for young tomato sprouts. Therefore, watering in the evening (in February-April) is not recommended. At night, the temperature can drop significantly, the sprouts will freeze and begin to hurt.

Fresh air

As soon as a warm, windless day comes out, take the seedlings out into the fresh air: on the balcony, outside, or just open a window. Even in March, on a sunny day, the temperature on an open balcony can reach 15-20 ° C! If such a day coincided with the emergence of seedlings - great luck! Take out the sprouts to bask in the sun. The fact is that tomato sprouts on the first day after germination are protected from UV rays, which prevents them from burning. Such sprouts from infancy will be heat-resistant, hardened and can be “walked” in the sun on a regular basis.

If you did not have time to take out the seedlings in the sun on the first day, then it is no longer possible to do this in 1-2 days - the innate hardening has disappeared. In this case, you will have to gradually accustom the sprouts to the sun. The first day is enough 5 minutes. Then every day you can increase the duration of the walks by another 5 minutes.

Tomato seedlings, which were exhibited every day on an open sunny balcony (in the courtyard), by the time they were planted for permanent residence, quickly catch up in growth with those seedlings that were sown a month earlier, but were kept on the windowsill behind the glass and without illumination.

Top dressing

Tomato seedlings need feeding 2-3 weeks after the first shoots. In the future, fertilizers will have to be applied every week. It is best to use natural organic fertilizers such as manure or grass. Of the purchased ones, specialized fertilizers based on guano, humic fertilizers, vermicompost, etc. are good. Use half the dose indicated for the particular fertilizer to feed seedlings.

Step 3. Picking (transplanting into large cups, pots)

The first true leaves of tomato sprouts appear on the 7-10th day. At this age, if the seeds were sown too heap in one container, you can pick the seedlings into separate cups. Despite the fact that tomatoes tolerate transplanting well, this must be done carefully. Transplant sprouts with a clod of soil on the roots. Some gardeners advise pinching the central root of tomato seedlings when picking.However, we do not recommend doing this - in any case, even with the most careful transplantation, the roots are still damaged. There is no need to additionally injure the plant. Moreover, it can be harmful: pinching up to 1/3 of the root will delay the development of seedlings for 1 week.

When picking tomato seedlings, a lump of earth on the roots should be preserved

The first transplant is carried out in small 200 ml cups.

After 2-3 weeks, the seedlings can be dived a second time - into larger pots. If the seeds were originally sown in individual containers (cups, cassettes), then this transplant will be the first. At the same time, it is not recommended to use pots less than 0.5-1 l. Professional gardeners prefer even larger volumes - 3-5 liters for each plant. But, you see, not every window sill can withstand such seedling plantations, especially in a city apartment. Yes, this is not necessary: ​​1 liter of soil for 1 plant is enough for the eyes!

Picking tomato sprouts into peat pots

You can learn how to grow tomato sprouts and dive seedlings by watching the video:

Step 4. Preparing for planting for permanent residence (in the greenhouse, on the balcony, in the exhaust gas)

At the age of 1.5 months, tomato seedlings at home expel the first flower brushes. As soon as you notice them, know that after 10-15 days the seedlings need to be planted for permanent residence - in a greenhouse, on a balcony or in an exhaust gas. It is impossible to delay the transplant, otherwise it will lead to a decrease in the yield.

If you decide to keep tomato seedlings on the windowsill for more than 45-60 days, then it should be provided with at least 1 liter of soil per 1 plant. If you overexpose tomatoes in relatively small containers, even 10 days longer than it should be, and let them bloom, then they will stop their vegetative growth and will forever remain "undergrowth". Even in exhaust gas, they will no longer be able to accelerate and will never turn into full-fledged plants. Accordingly, you will not have to wait for a full harvest from them either!

This problem can be partially solved by removing the first flower brush. The next brush will appear only after a week, that is, it will be possible to postpone the planting of seedlings for permanent residence for a week.

A good tomato seedling before planting should have thick stems, large leaves, a strong root system and developed buds.

Characteristics of a healthy tomato seedling: powerful bush, large succulent leaves, thick stems, developed root system

Step 5. Planting tomato seedlings in the ground

The distance between the tomatoes in the greenhouse or the exhaust gas should be 30-40 cm. If you decide to grow garden plantations on the balcony, then 4-12 liters of land should be allocated for each tomato bush. 4-5 liters will be enough for undersized "balcony" varieties: "Balcony miracle", "Dwarf", "Hummingbird", etc. Large garden varieties suitable for OG ("Sasha", "Sunrise", etc.) are grown in containers of 10-12 liters.

For tomatoes, good fertile garden soil (black soil), mixed with peat soil "Universal" or "For vegetables" in a ratio of 1: 1.

Planting tomato seedlings for permanent residence is best timed to coincide with a cool, calm and cloudy day. Plant the seedlings by burying the center stem a couple of centimeters deep. After a few days, additional roots will begin to form along the buried stem. Overall, the root system will become stronger and stronger.

After planting, water the tomato seedlings with warm water and wait for the harvest!

Planting tomato seedlings in a balcony box for permanent residence

And, finally, in order to better understand the intricacies of growing tomato seedlings and transplanting them to permanent residence in open ground, a greenhouse or onto a balcony, we suggest watching a short video posted below:

How to grow strong tomato seedlings with your own hands

Tomatoes are from South America, so when growing tomato seedlings at home, you need relatively dry air, a lot of light and heat.

The correct choice of variety

Before you start growing tomato seedlings, you need to decide on the choice of varieties.Before planting seeds, you need to decide which varieties will be grown and where. It is fundamentally important to know whether tomatoes will grow outdoors or in a greenhouse. According to the method of growth, all varieties are divided into indeterminate, semi-determinant and determinant. This characteristic is indicated on the seed bag and is decisive for growing plants in open or protected ground.

1. Indeterminate tomatoes have unlimited growth and, if not pinched, can grow up to several meters. In the south, they can be grown in a greenhouse or outdoors on a trellis, or tied to high stakes. In the middle lane, Siberia, the Far East, these tomatoes are grown only in greenhouses, tying them vertically. Their first brush is laid after 9-10 leaves, the next ones - after 3 leaves. The fruiting period is long, but comes later than in other types.
2. Semi-determinant varieties and hybrids... Tomatoes stop growing after 9-12 inflorescences are laid. They tend to set a large number of fruits to the detriment of roots and leaves, and, when overloaded with crops, tomatoes may stop growing long before the formation of the 9th cluster. Flower brushes are laid through 2 leaves. In the south, they are grown mainly in open ground, in the middle lane, they can be planted both in a greenhouse and on the street.
3. Determinant tomatoes Are undersized plants. They are intended for planting in open ground. Their growth is limited, they lay 3-6 brushes, the top of the shoot ends with a flower brush and the bush does not grow upwards anymore. The first brush in this type is laid after 6-7 leaves. These are early ripening tomatoes, but their yield is lower than that of the indeterminate type. However, significant differences in the yield of varieties are noticeable only in the south. In the middle lane and to the north, the difference is minimal, since the indents do not have time to reveal their full potential.

Should I choose a hybrid or a variety?

Variety Are plants that are capable of retaining their characteristics for many generations when grown from seeds.

Hybrid Are plants obtained by special pollination. They retain their traits only in one generation; when grown from seeds, their traits are lost. Any plant hybrids are designated F1.

Sign	Varieties	Hybrids
Heredity	Varietal characteristics are passed on to subsequent generations	Traits are not transmitted and are a feature of one generation per growing season
Germination	75-85%	Excellent (95-100%)
Fruit size	Fruits are larger than those of hybrids, but can vary significantly in weight	Fruits are smaller, but aligned
Yield	May fluctuate from year to year	High yields with proper care. Usually higher than varieties
Disease resistance	Susceptible to various diseases, some of which can be inherited	More resistant, less affected by diseases
Weather	Better tolerate temperature changes	Temperature fluctuations tolerate much worse varieties. With sudden and strong changes in temperature, they may die
Conditions of detention	Less demanding on soil fertility and temperature	Requires more fertile soil and higher temperatures for fruiting
Top dressing	Needed regularly	For good fruiting, the dose should be higher than for varieties
Watering	Can tolerate short-term drought or waterlogging well	Very poorly tolerate both lack and excess of moisture
Taste	Each variety has its own flavor.	Less pronounced. To taste, all hybrids are inferior to varieties.

The cooler the summer in the region, the more difficult it is to grow hybrids. In these regions, varieties should be preferred. Also, if in the future there is a desire to grow a crop from their own seeds, then they make a choice in favor of the variety.

If the goal is to get the maximum amount of products, and the weather conditions in the region allow, then it is preferable to grow hybrids.

Dates of sowing seeds for seedlings

The timing of sowing seeds for seedlings depends on the early maturity. First of all, the timing of planting tomatoes in the ground is determined and the required number of days is counted from this date - the time for sowing seeds is obtained.

For mid-season varieties, the age of tomato seedlings before planting in the ground should be at least 65-75 days. You can plant them in a greenhouse at the end of May, and in open ground, when the threat of frost has passed, that is, in the first decade of June (for the middle lane). If we also add the period from sowing to germination (7-10 days), then sowing must be 70-80 days before planting in the ground. In the middle lane, the sowing period for mid-season varieties is the first decade of March. However, it is unprofitable to grow mid-season varieties in the northern and central regions: they will not have time to fully reveal their potential, and the harvest will be small. Mid-season and late tomatoes are suitable only for the southern regions of the country.

Seedlings of early ripe tomatoes are planted in the ground at the age of 60-65 days. Therefore, the seeds are sown after March 20. They are suitable for all regions of the country.

It is not necessary to sow tomatoes too early for seedlings. They are strongly stretched and weakened during early sowing in conditions of a lack of light. In poor light during the seedling period, flower clusters are laid later, and the yield becomes lower.

If the soil in the greenhouse has warmed up, then early-ripening tomatoes for greenhouses can be sown directly into the greenhouse in early May and grown without picking. When grown without seedlings, tomatoes begin to bear fruit 1-2 weeks earlier than seedlings.

Soil for growing tomato seedlings

For growing tomato seedlings, it is better to prepare the soil yourself. The soil should be loose, nutritious, water and air permeable, should not be crusty and compacted after watering, be free of pathogens, pests and weed seeds.

For seedlings, a mixture of peat and sand is made up in a ratio of 1: 0.5. For each bucket of land obtained, it is advisable to add a liter can of ash. Peat is acidic and tomatoes need a neutral environment to grow well. Ash just neutralizes excess acidity.

Another option for an earthen mixture is sod land, humus, sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 3, instead of sand, you can take high-moor peat.

After special processing, the garden soil can also be used for growing tomato seedlings, the main thing is that it does not contain the spores of diseases and wintering pests. But, since it is too compacted in containers, sand or peat is added to loosen it. They take land from under the plantings of legumes, melons, greens, siderates. Do not use the soil from greenhouses, after nightshades. If the earth is acidic in the country, then ash must be added (1 liter / bucket). Garden soil is best used for preparing soil mixtures.

Purchased soils contain a lot of fertilizers, which is not always good for seedlings. If there are no other options, then the store land is diluted with sand, garden or turf soil. Peat is not added to the purchased soil, since it itself, most often, consists only of peat. It is better to prepare the soil mixture in the fall.

If the moment is missed, and there is no place to take the soil, then you will have to buy several types of soil from different manufacturers and mix them in equal proportions, or add soil from flower pots to the purchased land. But this is the worst option when growing seedlings.

Soil treatment

After preparing the mixture, the land is compulsorily cultivated to destroy pests, diseases, and weed seeds. The soil can be processed using various methods:

• freezing;
• steaming;
• by calcining;
• disinfection.

Freezing... The finished soil is taken out into frost for several days, so that it freezes. Then they bring it into the house and let it thaw. The procedure is repeated several times. It is desirable that the outside frost be at least -8 -10 ° C at this time.

Steaming... The earth is heated for an hour in a boiling water bath.If the soil is purchased, then the sealed bag is placed in a bucket of hot water, covered with a lid and kept until the water cools.

Calcination... The earth is calcined in an oven preheated to 100 ° C for 40-50 minutes.

Disinfection... The earth is watered with a strong solution of potassium permanganate dissolved in hot water. Then cover with foil and leave for 2-3 days.

Preparing tomato seeds for sowing

If the bag says that the seeds are processed, then they do not need additional processing. The rest of the seed must be processed.

First of all, calibration is carried out. The seeds are dipped in a glass of water and wait 3-5 minutes until they get wet. Then the floating seeds are thrown away, they are unsuitable for sowing, since the embryo died, therefore they became lighter than water. The rest are soaked for 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate.

For processing, the seeds can be soaked in water heated to 53 ° C for 20 minutes. This temperature kills disease spores, but does not affect the embryo. Then the hot water is drained, the seeds are slightly dried and sown immediately.

For early germination, the seed is soaked. It is wrapped in a cotton cloth or paper towel, moistened with water, placed in a plastic bag and placed on a battery. You also need to soak the processed seeds. As practice shows, they sprout faster than without soaking, and the protective effect from processing remains quite high.

Many process planting material with growth stimulants. But in this case, all seeds sprout together, including weak ones. In the future, a large percentage of rejection of weak plants is obtained. Therefore, it is better to treat bad seeds with stimulants (with an expiring expiration date, overdried, etc.), just soak the rest in water.

Sowing seeds

When the seeds hatch, sowing is done. You should not wait for the sprout to be larger; when tightening with sowing, long sprouts break off.

Tomatoes are sown in shallow boxes, filling them with soil by 3/4. The ground is slightly crushed. Seeds are laid out at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Sprinkle with dry earth on top. If the soil is not crushed or the crops are covered with moist soil, the seeds will go deep into the soil and will not germinate.

You can sow 2 seeds in separate containers, if both sprout, then they are planted when picking.

Varietal tomatoes and hybrids are sown in different containers, since they have different germination conditions.

The boxes are covered with foil or glass and placed on the battery until germination.

Seed germination timing

The timing of the emergence of seedlings depends on the temperature.

• Seeds of varieties germinate at a temperature of 24-26 ° С after 6-8 days
• At 20-23 ° C - after 7-10 days
• At 28-30 ° C - in 4-5 days.
• They can rise even at 18 ° C in 8-12 days.
• The optimum germination temperature for varietal tomatoes is 22-25 ° C.

The germination of hybrids is much better, but often they do not germinate well at home. For good germination, they need a temperature of + 28-30 ° C. + 24 ° С - it is COLD for them, they will germinate for a long time and not all will ascend.

Weak seeds emerge later than others; they usually have a seed coat on them. Therefore, seedlings that appeared later than 5 days after the main group are removed, they will not have a good harvest.

Tomato seedling care

To grow good tomato seedlings, it is imperative to maintain the following parameters:

• temperature;
• light;
• moisture.

Temperature... As soon as shoots appear, the film is removed and the boxes are placed in a bright and cool place with a temperature of + 14-16 ° C. In the first 10-14 days, the seedlings grow roots, and the aerial part practically does not develop. This is a peculiarity of tomatoes and you don't need to do anything here. After the allotted time, the seedlings will begin to grow. As soon as growth begins, the daytime temperature is increased to 20 ° С, and the nighttime temperature is maintained at the same level (15-17 ° С).

After germination, hybrids need a higher temperature (+ 18-19 °).If they are placed in the same conditions as varietal tomatoes, they will wither rather than grow. After 2 weeks, they also need to increase the daytime temperature to 20-22 ° C. If this cannot be done, then the hybrids will develop more slowly, the first flower cluster will appear later and the yield will be lower.

In general, for growing hybrids, you need to take the warmest windowsill, take care of them better than the rest of the seedlings, only then they will give a full harvest.

On warm days, the seedlings are taken out onto the balcony, and at night the vents are opened to reduce the temperature. Whoever has the opportunity, on sunny days, tomatoes are put in a greenhouse if the temperature there is not lower than + 15-17 ° C. Such temperatures harden the plants well, make them stronger, and, in the future, their yield is higher.

Lighting... Tomato seedlings must be highlighted, especially the late varieties that are sown earlier. The lighting period should be at least 14 hours a day. With a lack of light, the seedlings are strongly stretched, become long and fragile. In cloudy weather, the supplementary illumination of plants is increased by 1-2 hours compared to sunny days, and the temperature is reduced to 13-14 ° C, otherwise the tomatoes are strongly stretched.

Watering. Water the tomatoes very sparingly. Watering is carried out as the soil dries up and only with settled water. Unsteady tap water forms a bacterial-calcareous coating on the soil, which tomatoes do not like very much. At the initial stage, each plant needs only 1 teaspoon of water, as it grows, watering is increased.

The soil in the seedling box should be neither too wet nor too dry. It is necessary to water abundantly so that the soil is sufficiently saturated with moisture, and the next watering is carried out only after the earthen coma dries up. Usually tomatoes are watered no more than 1 time a week, but here they are guided by individual growing conditions. If the plants have wilted, then they need to be watered without waiting for a week to pass.

Waterlogging, combined with high temperature and poor light, causes a strong pulling of tomatoes.

Seedling picking

When 2-3 true leaves appear in tomato seedlings, a pick is carried out.

For picking, prepare pots with a volume of at least 1 liter, fill them with 3/4 of earth, watered and compacted. They make a deepening, dig out the seedling with a teaspoon and plant it in a pot. When picking, tomatoes are planted a little deeper than they grew earlier, sprinkling the stem with earth until the cotyledon leaves. Strongly elongated seedlings are covered up to the first true leaves. Seedlings are held by the leaves, if you hold it by a thin stalk, it will break.

Tomatoes tolerate picking well. If the sucking roots are damaged, they quickly recover and grow thicker. The roots must not be allowed to bend upwards, otherwise the seedlings will develop poorly.

After the pick, the ground is well watered, and the tomatoes themselves are shaded for 1-2 days so that the evaporation of water by the leaves is less intense.

How to feed tomato seedlings

Top dressing is carried out 5-7 days after the pick. Previously, top dressing is not recommended, since the soil was filled with ash, which contains all the necessary elements for seed growth. If the seedlings are grown on a purchased soil mixture, then feeding is all the more unnecessary.

After 14-16 days from germination, tomatoes begin to actively grow leaves, and at this time they need to be fed. Top dressing should contain not only nitrogen, but also phosphorus and trace elements, so it is advisable to use a universal fertilizer. During this period, you can feed the tomatoes with fertilizer for indoor plants. It gives excellent results.

You cannot feed tomato seedlings with nitrogen alone. First, it is difficult to calculate the required dose for relatively small plants.Secondly, nitrogen causes increased growth, which, with a limited volume of land and in conditions of a lack of light, leads to a strong stretching and thinning of plants.

Subsequent feeding is carried out in 12-14 days. Seedlings of late and mid-season varieties are fed 3-4 times before planting in the ground. Early maturing varieties are enough 1, maximum two dressings. For hybrids, the number of dressings is increased by 2 for each type of seedling.

If the land is purchased, then it is sufficiently filled with fertilizers and feeding when growing tomatoes on such soils is not carried out. The exception is hybrids. They consume nutrients more intensively and before planting it is necessary to carry out 1-2 dressings, in whatever soil they are grown.

Growing seedlings after picking

After picking, the seedlings are placed on the windowsills as freely as possible. If she is cramped, then she develops poorly. In densely spaced seedlings, the illumination decreases and it stretches.

2 weeks before planting tomatoes, they are hardened. For this, the seedlings are taken out on the balcony or in the open air even on cold days (the temperature is not lower than 11-12 ° C). At night, the temperature is lowered to 13-15 ° C. For hardening hybrids, the temperature should be 2-3 ° C higher, it is gradually lowered.

For tempering, pots with hybrids are first placed close to the glass itself, where the temperature is always lower. After a few days, if the batteries are regulated, they are closed for a few hours; if not regulated, then they open a balcony or a window. At the final stage of hardening, the seedlings of the hybrids are taken out to the balcony for the whole day.

If tomato seedlings cannot be taken out onto the balcony, then they are daily sprayed with cold water to harden them.

The main reasons for failure

1. Seedlings of tomatoes are strongly stretched. There are several reasons: not enough light, early planting, excess nitrogen fertilizers.
   1. Seedlings are always pulled out when there is a lack of light. It needs to be supplemented. If this is not possible, then a mirror or foil is placed behind the seedlings, then the illumination of the tomatoes greatly increases, and they stretch less.
   2. There is no need to feed the tomatoes with nitrogen, this causes the rapid growth of tops, and in conditions of insufficient illumination (and there is always not enough light in the room, no matter how you light up the seedlings), they stretch out strongly.
   3. Sowing seeds too early. Even normally developing seedlings are stretched out with early sowing. After 60-70 days, the plants become cramped in pots and containers, they need to develop further, and in conditions of limited feeding area and cramped space on the windowsill, they have one way out - to grow up.
   4. All these factors, both individually and together, cause the seedlings to stretch. Tomatoes stretch even more if excessive watering and a high temperature of the seedlings are added.
2. Seeds do not germinate. If the seed is of good quality, then there are no shoots due to the low temperature of the soil. This is especially important for hybrids. They germinate at a temperature of 28-30 ° C. Therefore, to accelerate the emergence of seedlings, containers with sown tomatoes are placed on a battery.
3. Tomatoes do not grow well. They are too cold. For varietal tomatoes for normal growth, a temperature of 18-20 ° is required, for hybrids - 22-23 ° C. Hybrids can grow at 20 ° C, but more slowly, and, accordingly, later enter fruiting.
4. Yellowing of the leaves.
   1. Usually the leaves of tomatoes grown in crowded areas turn yellow. When the seedlings are large, they do not have enough light on a cramped windowsill, and the plants shed excess leaves. In such conditions, all attention is paid to the top of the stem, the bushes are trying to outgrow their competitors in order to have more comfortable conditions. When the leaves turn yellow, the seedlings are arranged more freely and the air temperature is reduced.
   2. If the leaves are small, turn yellow, and the veins remain green or slightly reddish, this is a lack of nitrogen. Top dressing is given with full mineral fertilizer. You don't need to feed with nitrogen alone, otherwise the tomatoes will stretch out.
   3. Limiting the area of ​​food.Tomatoes are already cramped in the container, the roots have braided the entire earthen ball and further growth stops. Transplant the seedlings into a larger pot.
5. Curly leaves... Sharp and significant changes in temperature. When growing tomato seedlings, a sharp increase in air temperature must be avoided. The seedling feeding area is limited and the roots cannot support all leaves in hot weather. The same thing happens with a sharp cold snap, but this is much less common at home.
6. Blackleg. Frequent disease of tomato seedlings. It affects all types of plants. The disease spreads rapidly and in a short time can destroy all seedlings. The stalk at the soil level turns black, becomes thinner, dries up, the plant falls and dies. Infected plants are removed immediately. The soil is watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, Fitosporin, Alirin. After that, the tomatoes do not need to be watered for a week, the soil should dry out.

Growing seedlings at home is a troublesome business, but otherwise it will not be possible to harvest a good harvest, especially in the northern regions and the middle lane.

Save article to:

Dear visitors of the "Dacha Plot", tireless gardeners, gardeners and flower growers. We offer you to pass the aptitude test and find out whether you can trust the shovel and let you into the garden with it.

Test - "What kind of summer resident I am"

Share this article with your friends: