How to grow cabbage seedlings at home?

The cultivation of white cabbage usually begins with the preparation of the seedlings. It is almost unrealistic to grow strong seedlings in a city apartment, it is too hot there, but in greenhouses it is not at all difficult to do this. You just need to sow the seeds on time and put a little effort into caring for young plants.

Is it necessary to grow cabbage through seedlings

The question of the compulsory cultivation of cabbage seedlings is connected with two points: what kind of cabbage we are talking about, and in which region we live. The fact is that many late varieties of white cabbage have a life cycle of about six months, or even more. This means that even if the harvest is planned for mid-October, it is necessary to sow seeds in early April, which is difficult to do directly in the garden in the middle lane. Early varieties stay in the garden for a much shorter time, but if they are sown immediately to a permanent place, then the harvest can no longer be called early.

However, it turns out that even in the southern regions, where March sowing in the garden is quite possible, cabbage is often grown through seedlings; however, they do not do it at home. They just sow seeds in a garden bed, and then plant them, that is, they actually grow through seedlings. What for? The fact is that with a transplant, cabbage heads work better: a seemingly traumatic operation is only beneficial to the seedlings.

Is it possible not to bother and immediately sow seeds in the holes in a permanent place, and harvest in the fall? You can do that too. But often with such a simplified approach, the plants are weaker (their roots do not develop so well), and as a result, the yield is reduced. Thus, it should be recognized that growing cabbage through the seedling stage is optional, but highly desirable.

When to sow: lunar calendar 2018

You should immediately decide on the order of sowing cabbage seeds of different ripening periods. Not everything is unambiguous here, although there is logic. Seedlings of any varieties are planted in a permanent place at the age of 40 to 50 days. If the cabbage is early, then you need to take all the benefits of this term and get vitamin products as early as possible.This cabbage will not be stored, the heads of cabbage are usually small, not very dense, they are happily eaten in the form of salads. Therefore, early varieties are sown first for seedlings. Usually in the middle lane this happens in mid-March, but if there is such an opportunity (southern region or greenhouse), it can be done in February.

Early cabbage has small heads of cabbage, but the meaning is not in size: the road is a spoon for dinner

Late varieties of cabbage are intended for long-term fresh storage in cellars. Its heads of cabbage reach ripeness in the autumn months, they even end up in the beds under light frosts, which does not bother them at all: they should be put into the cellar as late as possible. Therefore, sowing too early is unnecessary. However, based on the length of the growing season, it turns out that the approximate sowing dates for the late varieties are in mid-April.

Late varieties grow in dense heads of cabbage, they stay in the garden for a long time, so they also have to be sown early.

Medium-ripening cabbage is grown for autumn consumption (it is stored worse late) and fermentation, which is usually done in autumn. Therefore, these varieties are harvested in September-October, and in order for it to ripen by this time, the seeds can be sown a little later than in the case of late varieties. Sowing dates are around the end of April. Obviously, all the above dates are approximate: in the south they move somewhat in one direction, and in the conditions of the Urals or Siberia - in the other.

At the end of the twentieth century, a boom began among gardeners, associated with the publication of various kinds of sowing calendars associated with the life cycle of heavenly bodies. The most popular was the Lunar calendar, which links the favorable and unfavorable days of gardening concerns with the constellation in which the Earth's satellite, the Moon, is located.

There is undeniable evidence that the growth of various crops is differently associated with the phases of the moon, but how serious this influence is is difficult to judge: as a rule, approximately the same harvest is obtained from those summer residents who strictly follow the calendars, and those who simply have no time to follow them ...

Counts, that the periods of new moon and full moon are prohibited for sowing, transplanting and any other operations with plants. These days, the flora seems to freeze and prepare for the change of the lunar phase. If you strictly follow the lunar calendar, then in 2018 the following days are allowed for sowing cabbage:

• in February - 21, 22, 25, 26;
• in March - 20, 21, 25, 26;
• in April - 18, 21;
• in May - 19, 24.

It would be sad to look at these dates (and they are given in many authoritative sources!). If you follow them strictly, then the most necessary time falls out of sowing: the beginning and middle of April. And if the gardener on the 18th and 21st should be at work ... Fortunately, other publications publish their versions of the calendar, less strict, and the April numbers in them look like this: 7, 8, 18, 20-21 April.

We will not argue that “everything is lying about the calendars”, but we will treat it with restraint.

Well, that’s better, there are days at the beginning of the month. All this would be ridiculous, but after all, after looking through a dozen magazines and Internet sites, you come to the conclusion that many write the way they want, and if this is so, then there is not much point in strictly following such calendars. There is a time - we focus on a favorite, trustworthy source. No - we sow when we have free time, relying on scientific data and our experience.

Preliminary preparation

Preparation for sowing cabbage for seedlings consists in the purchase and processing of containers, seed material and soil. In terms of packaging, nothing special is required. Yes, it is very convenient to use peat tablets or pots. But cabbage is normally a transplant, so you can even grow it at home in shared boxes. And since the pick is only good for her, it is best to prepare small boxes and any cups about 7 x 7 cm in size.In a greenhouse, nothing is needed: seeds are sown directly into the ground.

Seed preparation

There are many recipes to read about seed preparation. They include calibration, decontamination, soaking, hardening, etc. Let's ask ourselves a question: do we have time for all this? If the seeds are harvested in their own garden, then almost all of this, indeed, will have to be done. But how many summer residents prepare their cabbage seeds, which she gives only in the second year? After all, it is necessary to preserve a healthy stump until spring, plant it, take care of it ... The store now sells seeds for all tastes, and in the case of cabbage varieties, they are not that expensive.

Yes, until recently there were companies that could hardly be trusted, and instead of cabbage, you could buy, for example, turnips. Most of these organizations have now left the market. True, re-grading happens, and you can run into a completely different variety that you wanted, but, from the point of view of quality, the seeds, as a rule, are sold quite suitable, and they do not require any additional preparation. Cabbage seeds remain viable for 4-5 years, and fresher seeds are usually marketed.

Seeds in cabbage are medium in size, easy to handle

Calibration is advised to be carried out by immersing the seeds in salt water. Well, this method is good for light seeds like peppers or tomatoes! In cabbage, almost all the seeds will drown, only chipped off will remain to swim, and there are very few of them. Do I need to disinfect purchased seeds? I haven't done this for years. But those who wish, fearing for the presence of infectious agents in the bag, can do this. The recipe is usual: 15–20 minutes in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of about 48–50 ° C, followed by rinsing.

Many gardeners are advised to soak the seeds before sowing, including in micronutrient solutions. Of course, this will not harm at all, but it will not give much effect either. As, however, and hardening of soaked seeds in the refrigerator. Cabbage is so cold-resistant that such measures will only take your time, and in our fast age you can spend it on something more necessary.

High-quality cabbage seeds, if they have not been found on some cherished shelf and have not been stored there for many years, will sprout without any preparation, dry, and the difference of one or two days will not make us any better. Therefore, it is worth listening to all the advice, but letting it pass through yourself, deciding whether to carry out this or that stage.

Soil preparation

But careful preparation of the soil for sowing is already more serious, especially if the soil is taken from the garden. At least, it is absolutely impossible to take it from the garden where cruciferous plants (cabbage, radish, radish) grew. To grow a small amount of seedlings, you can buy soil in the store, but if you have something to cook from, you should not waste your money. Moreover, we are talking only about growing seedlings at home, and this is rarely done: cabbage seedlings are simply very hot at home.

So, if home sowing is supposed, then the best soil composition is sod land, peat and sand, taken in equal proportions. In addition, a half-liter can of wood ash must be added to a bucket of such a mixture. You can also have a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate, but you can do without it, it is better then to fill the lack of fertilizers with dressings.

For growing cabbage seedlings, it is not advised to use humus, even of good quality: while it grows more pampered.

Self-prepared soil must be disinfected. The choice of method is not for everybody. Freezing the soil is easy, but it does not kill all possible pathogens. Steaming in the oven at a temperature of about 100 ° C is safer, but at this time it will not be so pleasant to be in the kitchen. In addition, hot processing kills beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Probably the best way is, after all, spilling with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Unlike seed dressing, the concentration of the solution should be lower for the soil. It makes no sense to give numerical values: how does the average Russian man in the street take a sample of 0.5 g at home? It should be a pink solution. Not faintly pink, but such that the color is intense enough. But through the solution poured into a liter jar, it was possible to discern what was behind it. Here's a rough guide. It is better to spill the soil with a warm solution, but not hot. So that it becomes visibly wet. After that, she will have to dry out for a couple of days, otherwise it will not even be possible to make furrows for sowing.

For soil disinfection, a medium solution is suitable, and for seeds - the one on the left

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How to grow early and late cabbage seedlings at home

Cabbage seedlings are simply grown in the open field, at least in late and mid-late varieties and in not too northern regions. At home, in a city apartment, this has to be done only for early production, but growing high-quality seedlings at home is daunting. The best option for most regions is a small greenhouse or unheated greenhouse.

On a windowsill in a house or apartment

If there is a need to grow seedlings on a windowsill, then this should be the coldest and most lighted windowsill in the house. And the owners will have to put up with constantly open windows: a comfortable temperature for a person for cabbage seedlings is destructive.

It makes no sense to immediately sow seeds in separate pots, unless these are peat tablets. Anyway, 10 days after germination, they will need to be transplanted with pinching off the tip of the main root: this is the only way to grow relatively strong seedlings at home. Therefore, sowing is carried out in a small box. Two weeks of seedlings stay wonderfully withstand rectangular cardboard boxes of milk, kefir, juice, etc. time. Moreover, in the sowing container, a soil layer of more than 4 cm is not needed. The sowing technique is simple, but care for the seedlings is not very:

1. We sow seeds in moist soil, in grooves, at a distance of about 3 cm from each other. The embedment depth is about 1 cm.

   For primary sowing, any container at hand will do.

2. We fall asleep with soil, compact. You can cover with glass, but they will ascend like that. We have a few days of quiet life, as long as a box of crops can be at room temperature.
3. As soon as at least a couple of sprouts hatch, the box is exposed to the brightest light and in the cold: 10–12 ° C during the day and 6–8 ° C at night. If you miss at least one day, you can throw it away and sow again. For a day in the warmth, the seedlings stretch up to 5 cm, and they can no longer be saved.
4. If everything is fine with the temperature (only the owners are cold), care is simple: do not overheat for the first week, in the future it is possible to several degrees higher, but not more than 16 ° C. The night heat is especially terrible.
5. Water lightly, just so as not to dry out the soil. And as much light as possible! If the seedlings are too dense and are already shading themselves, do not wait, we thin out.
6. While there is time, we are preparing a new home. Individual cups are best, but a more spacious drawer with a depth of at least 7-8 cm will do.
7. Ten days later, the first true leaf will peck over the cotyledon leaves. This is a signal that it is time for the seedlings to dive.
8. The pick is usual: we carefully dig out the seedlings. If the root is small, you can hardly touch it, and pinch the middle and long ones, tearing off a few millimeters from the top. We plant in the hole, squeeze the soil with our fingers, water carefully.If we dive into a common box, the scheme is approximately 6 x 6 cm.

   You need to dive early: there should be a maximum of one real leaf

9. For the first few days we set it in partial shade, the temperature is 18–20 ° C. Then we return to the cold lighted windowsill.
10. In the phase of two true leaves, we feed with any complex fertilizer according to the instructions for it. A week before planting in the garden, we repeat the feeding.
11. Immediately after the second feeding, we accustom the seedlings to even more severe conditions, taking them out to the balcony for a while.

Seedlings ready for planting should have a stocky appearance, a thick stem and 5-6 succulent leaves.

Good seedlings, low but strong

The advantage of growing seedlings on the windowsill is only one: it is under supervision all the time. But it creates a lot of inconveniences.

Video: growing cabbage seedlings

In the greenhouse

If there is a small unheated greenhouse in the country, it is better to use this option. True, you will need to visit seedlings often: ideally, at least every other day. The greenhouse cultivation of early cabbage seedlings makes the greatest sense; varieties of a later ripening period in the middle lane and in the south can be sown already in open ground, under a temporary shelter.

Sowing early varieties of cabbage in the greenhouse can be carried out at any time, which is determined only by the climate of the region and the current weather: the seeds must germinate at a temperature inside the greenhouse of at least 10 ° C, otherwise their sprouting will take too long, and under unfavorable conditions, some of the seeds may die. You can sow both in a box (just like in an apartment), and directly into a prepared seedling bed.

The first method of growing seedlings is no different from growing on a windowsill: the same sowing, the same care, adherence to temperature, humidity and light conditions. But picking is possible both in cups or a large box, and directly in the garden, as it is more convenient for the gardener.

If the sowing of seeds is carried out in a garden bed, it is necessary to prepare the soil in it in the same way as for the box: to make it loose and safe. It is better to replace the soil in the planting bed altogether, preparing it in the same way as at home: from earth, sand, peat and ash. Before sowing, spill it with a solution of potassium permanganate, let it dry, loosen it and sow the seeds according to a convenient scheme.

The latter implies that seedlings can be grown in the garden without picking, if only the temperature is strictly observed. If, by the time of the formation of real leaves, the seedlings have not stretched out at all, the pick may not be carried out. Obviously, if it is supposed to do without picking, it is necessary to immediately sow the seeds less often, according to the 6 x 6 cm scheme (or thin out the seedlings after they rise and grow slightly).

In a greenhouse, seedlings can be grown both in pots and in a garden bed

Growing in a greenhouse involves systematic airing by opening doors or windows. The risk of infection with a black leg is no lower than at home, and this sore attacks, first of all, with excessive soil and air moisture. Growing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse is more convenient than at home, but these advantages appear only if the owner can systematically monitor its condition.

Video: cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Outdoor cultivation

In the garden, you can immediately sow cabbage seeds in a permanent place as soon as the weather permits. To reduce the risk, several seeds are placed in each prepared well and for the first time the wells are covered with a cut plastic bottle. This approach saves time, as it does not require subsequent replanting, but, as a rule, in early spring it is still so difficult to work with the soil that it is easier to prepare a small seedling bed than a large bed for growing cabbage in the "inside and out" mode.

Video: growing cabbage in the ground without seedlings

Of course, the possibility of growing seedlings in the garden also depends on when you can get to the site: sometimes the roads dry out too late.But as a rule, sowing is already possible in central Russia in mid-April. It is better to prepare a small bed in the fall, having dug it well with the addition of a fair amount of wood ash. Then, on the very first spring arrival at the dacha, you can only slightly loosen the soil and, having made grooves, sow seeds in them.

By the way, cabbage rows can be alternated with rows of relatively cold-resistant annual flowers: asters, phloxes, godetia, etc. If you take a little risk, you can sow “Funny guys” dahlias, marigolds, and salvia.

After sowing, the bed must be covered with plastic wrap. But it is better to pull it at a height of 10-15 cm. Ideal for such a temporary shelter are window frames with opening sashes, which were thrown away in large quantities during the boom in the installation of plastic windows. Having nailed boards with a width of 10 cm and above around the perimeter of such a frame, we get a wonderful portable greenhouse.

Under such a shelter it will not be too hot, and one should not be afraid that the seedlings will stretch out. No, it is at home one day of delay with a decrease in temperature leads to the death of seedlings. Outdoors, when we arrive at the site next weekend, we may not see the seedlings yet, depending on the weather. Well, after another week, seedlings will appear necessarily; by that time it will be already warmer, the shelter can be removed.

For the first week, you can cover crops with any available material.

In the open field, watering of seedlings is almost never required: there is enough winter moisture in the soil. It is only necessary to periodically loosen the soil in the aisles and remove weeds. Top dressing is desirable: just like at home, in the phase of two true leaves and after another two weeks. It is not necessary to dive, but thinning is necessary: ​​in the rows it is necessary to leave 6–7 cm between the plants. It will be possible to plant seedlings in the garden at the usual time.

The advantage of open ground is colossal: the seedlings never stretch out. She has enough light and it's not hot yet. No need to mess with sowing containers, carry boxes back and forth ... Disadvantages? Actually, they are not.

Benefits of using cassettes

Let's go back to the apartment conditions. Speaking about individual pots, we completely forgot to discuss what they should be. But gone are the days when housewives themselves rolled the semblance of cups made of plastic wrap or paper. Now the most economical ones collect plastic cups from sour cream, cottage cheese, etc. all year round. It is important that they are not too small: a volume of at least 200 ml is needed.

Regular cassettes are a box divided into cells

But it is even more convenient to use the so-called cassettes: in them, individual cups are combined into a common matrix such as a drawer. They are easy to transport, but each bush in them lives in its own home, and the roots do not intertwine. And the most convenient, if they also have removable bottoms. Not completely removable, but easily pushed out by pressing the finger together with a lump of earth and a bush of seedlings. Seedlings can be easily removed from such cups without damaging the root system. The relative disadvantage (they cost money) is compensated by their durability: such cassettes serve for many years.

And this is how individual cups with an easily retractable bottom look like: they are also placed in a common tray

Using peat tablets

Peat tablets are compressed peat with the addition of fertilizers and, sometimes, growth stimulants. Available in various sizes: from 2.5 cm in diameter. Before use, the tablets are placed in a tray and gradually filled with plenty of water. The water is absorbed, the tablets grow up (from the sides they are limited by the braid) and turn into cylindrical peat containers for sowing seeds. A small depression is made for the seed in one of the ends.

Water tablets swell and turn into nutritious pots

For cabbage, it is necessary to use tablets with a diameter of 4 cm or more. Just in case, 2-3 seeds are sown in each tablet, and then the excess plants are cut off.The tray with tablets is kept at room temperature and in the light until shoots appear. Then the temperature is drastically reduced and the seedlings are grown under normal conditions.

The tablets are poured "from below" by pouring water into the tray; the right amount of moisture is absorbed into the peat.

There is no need for top dressing: the material of the tablets contains a sufficient amount of nutrients. A dive is not required when using tablets, but if the roots begin to sprout and intertwine with the roots of neighbors, the seedlings, along with the tablet, will have to be transplanted into a larger pot of potting soil. The convenience of using peat tablets is obvious. The only drawbacks are that the tablets are relatively expensive, and it makes sense to buy them only in small quantities.

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Features of growing seedlings in different regions of Russia

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings does not depend on the region: the recipes are pretty standard. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds and the place differ: in the south there is no point in sowing cabbage in apartment conditions, but in the north it often has to be done.

So, in the Moscow region, seeds of early cabbage are sown in late March or early April, and this can be done only at home or in a greenhouse. But late cabbage is sown in open ground as soon as the weather permits. In the Kuban, planting in the garden is possible already in March, and in Siberia or the Urals - not earlier than the end of April. If in the middle lane and in the south, hardening can be carried out before planting seedlings in open ground (this is a desirable stage), but in the Siberian region it is mandatory.

In the southern regions (Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, Astrakhan Region) in mid-March, you can even plant seedlings in open ground, so sowing seeds in an unheated greenhouse is possible in mid-February. In these regions, on the contrary, it is advisable to finish all business with cabbage in the spring: adult plants cannot stand extreme heat either. But in the conditions of, for example, the Leningrad region, late cabbage, sown for seedlings with a slight delay, may not have time to form properly, therefore, seeds are sown here in March or April, but greenhouse conditions are used for this.

Helpful hints

If you observe the temperature regime, give enough light and water in moderation, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy. Unless, of course, some kind of infection was introduced with the soil. We have already discussed the issue of stretching seedlings: if it has grown a few centimeters in the first day, it is better to throw it away. If the stretch is small, you can carefully pour clean soil to the roots, water lightly and immediately correct the blemishes with heat and light.

The main danger for cabbage seedlings is the black leg. Its first sign is blackening of the root collar, thinning of the stem, and then drying it out. At the first suspicion of a disease, diseased specimens should be carefully pulled out and thrown away, the soil should be watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and clean river sand should be carefully added to the roots of the remaining plants. An even more reliable remedy would be to transplant healthy plants into clean soil.

Seedlings that are sick with a black leg cannot be saved, but you can try to save neighboring, still healthy plants

Sometimes the seedlings take on an unnatural blue-violet hue. If this is not a characteristic color for the variety, the color is most likely associated with deviations from the regime. Perhaps there is simply not enough nutrition, and liquid feeding is able to rectify the situation. Yellowing of seedlings can also be associated with a lack of any nutrients or irrigation errors.

Sometimes the leaves of cabbage seedlings are covered with small holes. There are several reasons, but only one serious one: it is possible that a cruciferous flea was brought with the soil.It can be destroyed in seedling boxes only by spraying with chemicals: for a start, you can try a relatively safe Bordeaux liquid or even an ash infusion. It is undesirable to use harsher chemicals on seedlings.

Other pests of cabbage plants rarely affect seedlings, and if they are found, it is necessary to study the relevant literature and apply specific chemicals. But if the seedlings are clearly dying, unfortunately nothing can be done. In most cases, the owner was to blame when he did something wrong. Well, sometimes - accidentally caught pests, which were not noticed in time. Most often, seedlings die from a black leg. But when grown outdoors, seedlings almost never die.

In our next material, you will learn about all the rules for planting bell peppers for seedlings and the features of caring for it:

Growing cabbage seedlings is not difficult, unless they do it in a warm city apartment. Comfortable conditions for seedlings and their owners are radically different. But if conditions of good light and coolness are created, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy: the rest of the operations do not require anything supernatural when caring for it.

Graduated from the Chemistry Department of Moscow State University in 1981. Candidate of Chemical Sciences, Associate Professor.

A vegetable with character, popularly called "garden lady", tasty, healthy, fruitful - cabbage. She is one of the first in a healthy diet, in folk medicine, in cosmetology. Growing good cabbage for a gardener is a matter of honor. The best cabbage in our climate is grown from seedlings.

How to grow cabbage seedlings at home

Choosing a variety of cabbage

When choosing cabbage seeds, the luxurious forks of which will show off in your garden, first decide what you want to get. Cabbage cabbage strife. The sowing time of this vegetable for seedlings depends on the variety and ripening time. The early first kale for salads is one thing. Long-term storage winter varieties are quite different.

Important! The article is about white cabbage, but all the information applies to growing red cabbage.

Early ripe	This type of cabbage mainly includes low-yielding varieties that ripen the very first, starting in June. They have small heads of cabbage (no more than one and a half kilograms in weight). The density is loose. Such cabbage is not subject to long storage and is not suitable for sourdough.
Mid-season	Suitable for fresh consumption, but can also be used for fermentation. The maturation period is also average - it can lie in suitable conditions until the middle of winter. Heads of cabbage in mid-season cabbage are larger, 2-3 kilograms each, and more dense
Late ripening	This type is best suited for salting and all types of canning, as well as for storage. Heads of late-ripening cabbage are stored until spring. By weight, they can reach 6-7 kilograms (among record-breaking gardeners, and with proper care). Heads of cabbage are very dense, leaves are tough, poorly suitable for salads and raw consumption

If the area of ​​the garden allows, you can grow all three types of cabbage, or at least early and late.

The time of sowing cabbage for seedlings depends on the variety and ripening time

Purchase and preparation of seeds

Having decided on the variety, go for the seeds. You should not purchase many beautiful sachets (each should indicate the area for which the contents are intended). If you decide to grow early and late varieties, you can buy 2-3 sachets for a sample. In the next season, after harvesting and comparing the characteristics, it will be easier to decide on your preferences.

Read the information on the bag carefully before boarding

Seeds must be prepared for sowing if they have not been processed by the manufacturer. Read all information on the packaging carefully. Processed seeds, coated with glaze, pelleted, should not be soaked before sowing.The rest before starting sowing, warm up in water with a temperature of about 50 ° C for 1/3 hour. Then soak in clean, cold water for five minutes. You can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate instead of water for cold soaking.

Disinfection will prevent future seedling problems

Pre-soaking will "awaken" the energy of the seed. And disinfection will prevent future problems with seedlings such as black leg, root rot and powdery mildew.

Sowing dates for cabbage seedlings

Early sowing of seeds is fraught with the fact that the seedlings will stretch out, outgrow, and when planted in open ground will have a small supply of vitality - all of them are spent on survival in difficult room conditions. Such seedlings adapt to open soil longer, get sick more, and have a low yield.

Late sowing has the same negative consequences - the seedlings are not strong enough and are more susceptible to diseases during the period of adaptation to the garden soil and open air conditions.

Sowing dates are indicated on the back of the package.

Early varieties cabbage is sown for seedlings in March. After International Women's Day, you can start (referring to the gardener's lunar calendar). It is desirable to complete the sowing of early varieties by the last decade of March.

Mid-season varieties sown during the month - from March 20 to April 20.

Late ripening cabbage sown in April - from the beginning of the month to the 20th and 25th.

If you wish, you can calculate the exact sowing time yourself. It takes 10-12 days from the immersion of the seeds in the soil to the emergence of the seedlings. After the seedlings have appeared, they will need 50-60 days of full development before planting the seedlings in the ground. This means that, depending on the variety and conditions of the seedlings, sowing should be started 60-70 days before the seedling planting date. Regardless of the variety (early or late), cabbage seedlings are not recommended to be moved to the garden soil until stable warm temperatures occur and there is no threat of recurrent frosts.

It takes 10-12 days to hatch seedlings

Soil preparation and sowing

To grow healthy cabbage seedlings, you need to prepare a soil that meets certain requirements. Ideally, the seedling potting mix is ​​prepared in the fall. Or at least they collect the necessary components for it and send it for storage to the barn, cellar, to the balcony. If you do not have time to prepare before the onset of frost, you will have to do the mixing of fertile soil before planting.

The key to good seedlings is the right soil

The secret of fertile soil

For cabbage, you need a non-acidic, loose substrate. It is optimal to mix humus with turf soil (or peat) in a 1: 1 ratio. For each kilogram of the mixture obtained, add 1 tbsp. sifted ash.

Important! Wood ash is not only an excellent antiseptic, but also a concentrated source of important elements that seeds need for germination.

You do not need to add anything else to the soil for sowing seeds - you will increase fertility when transplanting sprouts into other containers during a pick.

Correct sowing

In order for cabbage seedlings to grow strong, healthy, stocky, they must be dived. This is the only way to achieve an increase in root volume sufficient for the normal nutrition of the seedling. Therefore, for sowing, large in area, but shallow containers are used. A tray or container works best. Do not forget to make drain holes in the bottom.

For sowing cabbage, large and shallow containers are used.

1. Before sowing, the soil in the tray is abundantly moistened - more, before the seeds emerge, it will not be watered, since otherwise there is a high probability of damage to the seedlings with a black leg. In order for cabbage seeds to germinate, they need a lot of moisture. Therefore, the soil under the seeds must be wet.
2. You can sow in rows, close to each other, when the seedlings hatch, they should be thinned out.As a result, the weekly seedlings are thinned to a distance of 2 cm² of feeding area for each sprout.
3. After three weeks, the seedlings are subject to picking. You can dive into peat or plastic pots, cardboard cups. Any container with a diameter of at least 6-8 cm will do.

After three weeks, the seedlings are subject to picking.

Caring for cabbage seedlings

Cabbage seedlings need proper care. This plant is not the most capricious, but errors in care can lead to growth retardation, disease and death of seedlings.

Supplementary lighting

One of the mandatory activities is its supplementary lighting. Saplings, immediately after germination, need a light period of at least 14-15 hours a day. Considering that the sowing is carried out in February - March, when there is still not enough sunlight, it is possible to organize an 8-hour supplementary illumination plus the daylight period. You can use an ordinary fluorescent lamp for illumination.

After germination, cabbage seedlings must be supplemented

Watering

The vegetable belongs to the great lovers of moisture. The only danger is the defeat of immature seedlings with a black leg. Therefore, all containers for growing cabbage seedlings at any stage must have large drainage holes.

After watering, you need to loosen the soil in the pot to prevent it from getting stuck.

Temperature

The optimal temperature regime for cabbage is:

• + 18 ... + 20 ° С - after sowing before germination;
• + 15 ... + 18 ° С - after seed germination before planting in the garden;
• + 8 ... + 10 ° С at night during the hardening period (up to two weeks before planting in the ground).

Temperature is an important factor in growing cabbage seedlings.

Top dressing of seedlings

Feeding cabbage seedlings is a must. She needs a balanced diet for active and good growth.

1. For the first time, you need to fertilize the soil two weeks after germination. Ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potash fertilizers are used. A solution is prepared from the mixture - 2/4/2 g and a liter of water, with which the seedlings are watered at the root after the main watering procedure.
2. The next time feeding is carried out in two weeks. In this case, with the same amount and proportion of fertilizers, it is necessary to take ½ liter of water (that is, the concentration of the solution doubles). If the leaves of the seedlings are not intense green, but are pale or yellowish in color, the soil lacks nitrogen - additionally feed the seedlings with a 10% solution of slurry.
3. The third time feeding is done two weeks before planting in the ground. Here, saltpeter, superphosphate and potash fertilizers are taken in the amount of 3/5/8 g per liter of water.

Saltpeter for active growth of cabbage

Hardening and planting in the ground

Start hardening seedlings 14 days before the expected disembarkation. First, you just need to open the window at night (no drafts). After three days, you can start leaving the seedlings on the balcony for a couple of hours every night. In the last week, in the absence of frost, the seedlings can generally be moved to a balcony or loggia.

Seedlings ready for planting should have at least 5-6 leaves and a strong, well-developed stem. Before planting, the plants are watered. Moving seedlings from the pot should be carried out carefully, while maintaining an earthen coma.

Seedlings ready for planting should have at least 5-6 leaves and a good stem

Growing cabbage is an interesting and rewarding business. This vegetable, subject to proper and careful care, will thank the gardener with a bountiful harvest. In order to provide the whole family with healthy crispy cabbage, two beds are enough - with an early and late variety.

Video - All about growing cabbage

Growing cabbage seedlings at home has become easier thanks to the wide range of products you need in specialized stores. However, you should not completely rely on the latest agricultural technology, because growing seedlings requires certain knowledge. And only if you approach the matter correctly, it will be possible to grow a strong plant, ready for planting in the ground.

Selection rules and preparation of seeds for seedlings

For growing seedlings, it is very important to choose the right seeds and, depending on the variety, plan the planting time. It is then that you will have the opportunity to reap the fruits of a delicious harvest all summer, starting in June. Cabbage varieties, depending on the ripening period, are divided into:

• Early ripe

The most famous varieties of early white cabbage: June, Skorospela, Transfer F1, Golden hectare. The average growing season is 100-120 days from the moment of sowing the seeds. Early cabbage is not suitable for harvesting for the winter. It is good fresh - juicy soft leaves, loose head of cabbage. Early maturing varieties are sown for seedlings around mid-March.

• Mid-season

Video about growing cabbage for seedlings

Among the mid-season varieties, gardeners distinguish the following: Menza F1, Slava, Nadezhda. The ripening period is from 130 to 150 days, therefore, the sowing of these varieties is carried out at the end of April. These varieties, due to the presence of dense heads of cabbage, can be used for salting and for fresh consumption.

• Late ripening

Among the late-ripening varieties, the following are especially popular: Aros F1, Amager, Türkiz. The ripening period of late-ripening varieties is from 160-180 days, you need to plant cabbage for seedlings in early April. As a rule, late-ripening cabbage can be kept fresh for a very long time. But it is also good in conservation - salted, pickled, pickled.

• Ultra-ripe

The most famous varieties: Express F1, Strawberry. The term for growing ultra-ripe cabbage is 40-50 days, so it can be sown starting from the end of March. This type is not suitable for salting and storage, but fresh cabbage is very tasty and is a source of many vitamins and minerals.

The term for growing ultra-ripe cabbage is 40-50 days

In addition to the correct choice of seed, it must be prepared for planting, and it does not matter whether the seeds were purchased or grown independently. First of all, the seeds must be sorted out, too small and clearly diseased must be discarded. Then soak the seed material that has passed the first selection in a 3% saline solution (taking 15 g of salt for half a liter of water). Those seeds that float to the surface within 5 minutes must be removed immediately - they are not viable. Rinse the rest thoroughly under a small stream of water at room temperature and pat dry on a paper towel.

It is also important to disinfect the seeds when processing seed. There are two ways to do this:

• soak the seeds for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then rinse and dry the seed again;
• the second option is heat treatment. The seeds are placed in a calico bag or in gauze folded in several layers and in this form are lowered into a container with hot (about 47-50 degrees) for 20 minutes.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the temperature of the water and not allow it to be above the upper limit, since the seeds may lose their germination, but the temperature should not be less than the lower limit either, since otherwise the heat treatment will be wasted, the desired effect will not be achieved.

Those seeds that floated to the surface within 5 minutes must be removed immediately

If you carefully read the recommendations on the packaging of cabbage seeds, then on some of them you can find information that the seed has already passed everything necessary. In this case, only heat treatment can be carried out, discarding everything else. But nothing bad will happen, even if such seeds are fully prepared.

Soil preparation and containers

Large containers should be used for growing seedlings. These can be specially prepared oblong boxes or any other suitable container. Peat pots or special cassettes for growing cabbage, which can be purchased at any specialty store, are also ideal.

Seedlings of cabbage at home are finicky and for its successful growth, a nutritious soil with neutral acidity is needed. You can do one of two ways, purchase a soil mixture ready for growing at a point of sale, or create it yourself. If you are more inclined to do everything with your own hands, and the second option suits you more, then you can prepare the soil for seedlings by mixing the following ingredients in a certain proportion:

Seedlings of cabbage at home are finicky

• Peat - 75%
• Sod land - 20%
• Sand - 5%
• Ash - 10 tablespoons for every 10 kg of soil mixture.

Mix all components thoroughly. When preparing the soil, remember that it should be moderately loose, breathable and completely nutritious.

Correct sowing

You also need to sow cabbage seeds correctly, you can't just put them in the ground and wait for shoots. In order for cabbage seedlings to be large and stocky, a pick will need to be made at a certain time. If you are not a supporter of crop transplantation, the seeds will immediately need to be sown in special cassettes, which were discussed above.

You also need to sow cabbage seeds correctly, you can't just put them in the ground and wait for shoots

Before planting, the soil in prepared containers must be thoroughly watered and, if possible, not watered again until the first shoots appear. Such measures are an excellent prevention against black leg disease. Abundant watering is also necessary for the fact that cabbage seeds need a lot of water to germinate.

If the emerging seedlings are too frequent, they must be tilled, leaving an area of ​​2x2 cm for each individual plant.When the seedlings grow a little, about two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, they must be dived, planting in separate cassettes, deepening the stem to the cotyledons. After another two weeks of cultivation, the pick must be repeated, replanting the seedlings in a more suitable container - peat pots, plastic cups. Planting cauliflower seedlings is carried out in a similar way.

Caring for cabbage seedlings

Video about caring for cabbage after transplanting into open ground

In order not to wonder how to grow healthy cabbage seedlings, and to make sure that it does not stretch out during germination on the balcony or windowsill, it is necessary to take proper care of it:

• Supplementing. Cabbage loves a lot of light, so its daylight hours should be extended to 12-15 hours using a fluorescent lamp. With a lack of light, the seedlings are pulled out and become less suitable for planting in open ground
• Timely watering is half the guarantee of growing good cabbage seedlings. The plant is very fond of water, so it needs to be watered regularly, but it is not worth pouring, as root decay may occur.
• Creation of the optimum temperature. Before the emergence of shoots, the optimum temperature is 18-20 C. After the emergence of shoots, the temperature must be lowered by moving the seedlings to a cooler place. Moreover, ideally, the temperature should be 15-15 C during the day, and 7-10 C at night. This temperature regime can only be used for seedlings of white cabbage. Temperature drops - hardening and prevention from stretching of plants.

Temperature changes - hardening and prevention of stretching of plants

• Top dressing. Proper cultivation includes mandatory feeding. It is very important for young plants to get a balanced set of nutrients on a regular basis. The first feeding should be done within a few days after the first pick. For this, a special purchased fertilizer is suitable. However, it is better not to be too lazy to prepare the fertilizer yourself by mixing the following components: 1 liter of water, 4 g of superphosphate, 2 g each of ammonium nitrate and potassium fertilizers. It is important to fertilize only after watering, otherwise you can "burn" young plant roots.The second feeding must be done two weeks after the first, taking fertilizer in a double volume for 1 liter of water. The third feeding is necessary two days before planting the seedlings in the ground. In this case, it is necessary to increase the proportion of potash fertilizers to 8 grams, which will have a positive effect on the survival of seedlings in the ground.
• Disease prevention. It is important to inspect the plants in a timely manner and, if necessary, remove diseased seedlings and take measures to combat pests and diseases.

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Cabbage is grown in many countries around the world. It is used in first and second courses, appetizers and preparations. Many people buy it in the store, but a knowledgeable gardener knows that self-grown cabbage is much tastier and healthier.

Growing healthy cabbage seedlings is the main task of the gardener who wants to get a bountiful harvest of this crop. The agrotechnology of growing any types of cabbage is similar and if you follow the simple growing recommendations, you can get an excellent harvest.

Conditions for growing cabbage seedlings at home

The main conditions for growing cabbage in a seedling way include: temperature, humidity and lighting. The future harvest depends on them.

Cabbage does not like high temperatures, as well as very low temperatures. At high temperatures, plants begin to hurt, and at low temperatures, they stop growing. Sudden changes in temperature and drafts are detrimental to plants.

Cabbage is considered a moisture-loving plant. You need to water it regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. At the same time, overflow should not be allowed, as this provokes the appearance of pests and a black leg. To moisten the leaves, they can be irrigated with a spray bottle.

With a lack of daylight, cabbage seedlings are supplemented with a phytolamp in the morning and evening hours.

Sowing dates, when to plant according to cabbage ripening dates

The time of planting seedlings in the beds depends on the maturation of the cabbage and varietal characteristics. The time of sowing seeds, in turn, depends on the time of transplanting plants into open ground. In the southern lane, cabbage seeds are sown earlier than in the middle and northern lane.

• Early maturing white cabbage, red cabbage and hybrid varieties should be sown from February 20 to March 20.
• Mid-season and late varieties are sown from April 1 to April 20.
• Broccoli and cauliflower seeds are sown several times. The sowing interval is 15-19 days. The first sowing is carried out in mid-March, the last at the end of May.
• Peking cabbage is sown several times and the first sowing is done in mid-April and the second in June.
• Brussels sprouts should be sown in mid-April.
• Kohlrabi is sown several times. The first sowing is carried out at the end of March, the last at the end of May.
• Planting of early maturing cabbage varieties is done in 45-60 days. Seedlings of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties, hybrids of white and red cabbage are ready for planting in 35-45 days.
• It takes 40-50 days to plant broccoli seedlings.
• Brussels sprouts and cauliflower are transplanted into the beds for 45-50 days. Kohlrabi is planted after 35 days.

Growing cabbage seedlings step by step

In order to grow strong seedlings, which in the future will give a bountiful and tasty harvest, you must adhere to some subtleties in the care of cabbage.

Preparation of land and seeds

The success of the future harvest directly depends on good seedlings, and they are obtained from quality seeds.
Seeds, as well as soil, require preliminary preparation.

Land for seedlings can be bought ready-made or prepared at home. The second is better prepared in advance, in the fall. It must freeze in order for harmful bacteria and pests to die in it. But if this is not possible, then its preparation can be done before sowing.

The soil for sowing should consist of a part of turf or leafy soil, part of rotted humus, part of coarse sand and part of peat. The resulting mixture is thoroughly mixed and spilled with a hot dark solution of potassium permanganate.

A glass of wood ash and 30 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of ammonium nitrate, 10 grams of potassium sulfate are added to it, per 10 kilograms. If these fertilizers are not available, you can take 35 grams of nitroammophoska. The resulting soil mixture is suitable for all types of cabbage.

Before sowing cabbage seeds must be pre-prepared.

When buying treated seeds, they are soaked for 20 minutes in water heated to 50 degrees, after which they can be sown in the ground. Self-harvested or untreated seeds require preliminary preparation.

The seeds are calibrated first. Small and damaged ones are immediately removed. Selected seeds are disinfected in a solution of Fitosporin, Baktofit or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

For better germination, the seeds are placed in a gauze bag and soaked for a day in a solution of sodium humate (5 grams per liter of water).

Sowing

For sowing, containers with a depth of 5 (if the plants are sown in heap) or 10 centimeters (if they grow one by one) are taken. For this, containers, boxes or individual pots, cups, peat tablets are suitable. Any containers at the bottom should have holes for excess water to escape when watering.

The earth is poured into a container, slightly compacted and spilled with warm water. In it, grooves are made with a depth of 1-1.5 centimeters. The width between them should be equal to 3-4 centimeters.

Seeds are sown at a distance of 1-4 (depending on the variety) centimeters from each other and sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil or sand, and irrigated with warm water from a spray bottle.

Seedling care at home

To accelerate seed germination and retain moisture, the container is covered with foil or glass. The temperature of the content of the sown seeds should be 18-25 degrees. After 4 days, abundant shoots appear. After that, the shelter is removed. Weaker shoots are removed if necessary.

To prevent the seedlings from stretching, after the seeds germinate, the container with the plants must be removed to a cool, bright place. The air temperature should be 16-20 degrees during the day and 8-15 at night. When 2 real leaves appear on the seedlings, peat is poured into the aisles (if diving is not expected).

When the seedlings are 10-14 days old, a dive is made. Plants are planted in separate cups, peat pots, cassettes with the same soil mixture that was used for sowing, deepen to the level of the cotyledons.

After diving the seedlings, you need to create a temperature regime equal to 15-20 degrees. After rooting of plants, it decreases to 10-14 degrees.

Fertilizing cabbage seedlings is done 3 times.

1. For the first time, it is carried out 7 days after the dive. For feeding, take: 40 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of ammonium nitrate, 10 grams of potassium chloride, in a bucket of warm water. You can also use a tablespoon of urea in a bucket of water or a solution of mullein (bird droppings) infusion and water in a ratio of 1:10.
2. The second time the seedlings are fertilized after 14 days. Plants are sprayed with a mixture of 40 grams of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water.
3. The third feeding is done 7 days before planting seedlings in the beds. For this, an infusion of mullein (bird droppings) or a special composition is used: 80 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of ammonium nitrate, 20 grams of potassium chloride, per bucket of water.

With a lack of light, a phytolamp is installed next to the seedlings.
Daylight hours for cabbage should be 12-16 hours (depending on the species).

After the seedlings have real leaves, they need to start hardening. Hardening consists in lowering the temperature of the content to 5 degrees Celsius. For this, plants are exposed to the street (under a canopy), balcony.On the first day by 3 hours, then the duration is increased daily by 2 hours.

It is necessary to water the seedlings with warm, settled water as the earth dries up. Watering stops a week before cabbage is planted on the beds.

When the seedlings reach a height of 18-20 centimeters and have 5-7 leaves, you can start transplanting into the ground.

Features of growing seedlings of cabbage species

With the right approach, you can independently grow white cabbage, red cabbage, cauliflower, Beijing, Brussels sprouts, ornamental cabbage, broccoli and kohlrabi. The seedling method allows you to grow plants in a shorter time compared to sowing in open ground. In addition, in cold regions, the second cultivation option is difficult due to the short warm period and the seedling method is considered the only possible one.

Cauliflower

The first crop of cauliflower is harvested in mid-June. To obtain such a crop, you can plant varieties: Snow Globe, Movir-74, Alpha, Express. Sowing of seeds is carried out on March 15-20.

Mid-season varieties Flora Blanca, Belaya Krasavitsa are sown from late March to mid-April,

Late-ripening varieties Regent, Cortes F1. Consista, Amerigo F1, Autumn giant are sown in the second half of April and early May. The harvest ripens in August - September.

Seedlings of cauliflower are more thermophilic in comparison with white cabbage and when grown, the air temperature in the room should be 5-7 degrees higher. The optimum temperature for cauliflower growth is 20 degrees during the day and at least 10 degrees at night.

To get a large head, cauliflower is fed every 10 days.
If this is not observed, the yield is worse, and the size of the inflorescences is smaller.

Legumes, cucumbers and potatoes are good precursors to cabbage when choosing a site for planting in the ground.

Broccoli

For early broccoli varieties, the period from seed germination to head cutting is 2–2.5 months, for mid-early varieties it is 3 months. The most popular early ripening varieties of broccoli include: Tonus, Gnome, Curly Head, Monterey, Vitamin, Vyarus, Macho F1 and Fiesta F1.

Broccoli is not afraid of cold weather and is often sown with seeds in the garden in May - June. Growing such cabbage with seedlings justifies itself when getting an early harvest, especially in the northern regions.

Broccoli, like any other cabbage, does not like excessive heat and prefers a humid climate. It grows on any soil.

Before the emergence of shoots, the temperature in the room can be 18-25 degrees. Then the temperature drops to 14-16 degrees during the day and 8-10 at night.

Daylight hours for broccoli seedlings should be 15-16 hours.

A dive is not required for this type of cabbage. Seedlings are sown in individual containers.
Plants grow at home for 5-6 weeks. Disembarkation takes place in mid-May.

Chinese cabbage

Early varieties of Peking cabbage (Orange mandarin, Cha-Cha, Vesnyanka, Asten, Peking broadleaf, Sprinkin) ripen in 40-55 days from the moment of sowing, mid-ripening (Glass, Bilko, Vorozheya, Hydra F1) ripen in 55-60 days, late (Russian size, Nika, Parkin and others) - after 80 days.

The peculiarities of growing this cabbage are in compliance with the temperature regime, good lighting and timely watering.

The optimum temperature for growing Chinese cabbage is 13-20 degrees. At higher ones, it shoots an arrow, at lower ones it does not grow.

Diving of seedlings is not carried out.

Peking cabbage grows best after cucumbers, garlic, onions, carrots and potatoes.

Brussels sprouts

Early maturing varieties Franklin F1, Long Island, Rosella F1 ripen in 4 months. Mid-season varieties - Diablo, Veselaya Kompaniya, Pomegranate F1 bracelet ripen for 5 months. Late varieties Sanda, Boxer F1, Commander in six months.

The temperature of the seedlings of Brussels sprouts during the day should be 16-18 degrees, at night - 5-6 degrees.

This cabbage is practically not susceptible to keel disease, it can be watered with cold water.

Seedlings are dived into separate containers at the stage of one true leaf. Plants are planted on the garden bed after 45 - 60 days. This cabbage should be planted according to the scheme of 60 x 60 centimeters.

White, red

The agricultural technology of white and red cabbage is the same. They are grown in seedlings, both at home and in greenhouses. Care for these types of cabbage is standard.

• The best early varieties of white cabbage include: Rinda F1, Kazachok, June, Tobia, they ripen about 70-90 days after sowing.
• Mid-season varieties - Sugar Queen F1, Slava, Atria F1, Kupchikha, Megaton ripen in 100-150 days.
• Late - Moskovskaya, Mara, Kolobok, Amager, Aggressor ripen in 120-180 days.

Early red varieties Early Beauty, Drumond ripen in 4 months. Mid-season varieties Kamennaya Golovaya 447, Avangard F1, Kalibos F1 - after 120–150 days. The Mikhnevskaya variety ripens in 4.5 months. Late varieties Languedaker late, Mars, Maksila - after 5 months.

Kohlrabi

The best early varieties of kohlrabi are Pikant, Vienna White 1350, Atena (ripening period 55-90 days), mid-season varieties - Blue Planet F1, Vienna Blue, Alka (70-120 days), late-ripening varieties - Violetta, Gigant, Kossak F1 and Kolibri F1 (120-150 days).

Plants are grown in a seedling and non-seedling way. Cabbage withstands low temperatures and grows even at -2 degrees, which allows it to be transplanted into the ground even with possible frost.
Transplanting into soil is carried out 35 days after sowing the seeds.

When 2 true leaves appear, the seedlings are fertilized with complex fertilizers. Re-feeding is carried out 2 weeks before planting in the ground.
Diving for this cabbage is not required.

Ornamental cabbage

Leafy varieties reach a height of 110-120 centimeters without forming rosettes. Elongated openwork carved leaves hang down. Cabbage varieties form colored rosettes.

The most beautiful varieties: Peacock, Colors of the East, Tokyo, Snow Queen, Nagoya, Coral, Osaka, Relay, Lace frill.

The agricultural technique of ornamental cabbage is similar to white cabbage. It is grown as seedlings or sown directly in the open field. Early cabbage is sown in early April.

• Seeds are sown in individual containers.
• The air temperature for plant growth should be 12-16 degrees.
• When the seedlings grow up and 2-3 leaves are formed, it undergoes a dive or transplant into open ground.

Ornamental cabbage is cold-resistant and frost-resistant.

When to plant outdoors

For planting cabbage in the fall, rotted humus, compost (1 bucket per square meter) are introduced into the beds for digging. In the spring, mineral fertilizers are introduced (30 grams of urea, 30 grams of superphosphate, a glass of wood ash per square meter).

Seedlings when planting should be 18-25 centimeters in height, have 5-7 developed leaves, an elastic, strong stem and a developed root system.

Watering the seedlings stops a week before the transplant. 2 hours before planting, the plants are watered abundantly.

The distance between the plants when planting on the beds should be 20-60 centimeters (depending on the type of cabbage), between the rows - 50-60 centimeters.

The depth of the planting hole should be slightly larger than the size of the root system with an earthy clod. Plants are transplanted together with an earthen clod. If they grew in peat pots, they are transplanted directly into them.

Plants are buried in the ground to the first true leaf, the roots are compressed with soil. A liter of water is poured under each plant.

Bright sun rays can harm immature plants, therefore, the beds with seedlings are shaded for several days after planting.

After planting, cabbage should be watered every 3 days, 2 liters of water per plant.After a month, watering is reduced to 1 time in 7 days (one bucket of water per square meter of beds). In the heat, watering is done more often.

Loosening of the soil (to a depth of 7 centimeters) is carried out after each watering.

1. The first feeding is done half a month after transplanting. To do this, take an infusion of mullein (bird droppings) 0.5 liters per plant.
2. The second feeding should be done after 10 days. For this, a solution is taken, consisting of: a bucket of water, 30 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of ammonium nitrate and 15 grams of potassium chloride.

To prevent the appearance of pests, plants and the ground around them are powdered with wood ash (glass per square meter).
For the prevention of diseases and pests, plants are sprayed with protective preparations.

Caring for cabbage seedlings, as well as for adult plants, does not cause any particular problems. Subject to agricultural technology, any type of cabbage gives an excellent harvest.

How to grow cabbage seedlings. Picking: video

Growing cabbage seedlings of any kind at home practically does not cause difficulties for gardeners. Plants grow and get stronger quickly. The seedlings grow healthy, strong, and the harvest does not take long.