How to grow strawberries at home in the garden?

Table of contents:

• Features of preparing the beds for planting
  • Garden covers
• Preparing seeds and seedlings for planting
• Fertilizing the soil
• Time to board
• Pollination
• Strawberry diseases
• Watering strawberries

The first berries in the summer in the garden are always our favorite strawberries. We are all waiting for the opportunity to come running with impatience in the morning to the cherished, sunlit garden with a mug or plate and quickly fill it with the long-awaited yummy. But you will also have to make a lot of efforts for an abundant harvest.

Growing strawberries does not cause any particular difficulties with difficulties, but still require the implementation of even the smallest rules.

Features of preparing the beds for planting

The strawberry bed must be clean, weed-free and well-cultivated. A soil loosened with a rake or a cultivator is required, sometimes it is even better to process it, on the recommendation of experienced gardeners, with a blowtorch (antifungal and restorative therapy). Since strawberries are a very capricious and demanding plant, we prepare the soil for planting very carefully.

Experts often advise making several annual beds, since there is an opinion that the first bed is just beginning to bear fruit, the second-year is the most productive, and the third-year is already in decline and at the end of the season is subject to a complete transplant. The acidity of the soil should be 5.5-6.5, the soil should also contain humus (3-4% manure, or better, more, although humus in combination only with sandy soil can give fungal infections, therefore an equipartite mixture of peat, humus, sand, etc.).

Many people recommend covering the breast with some kind of material.

Because of such recommendations and soil requirements for growing strawberries, many make variedly built beds in their plots. Some people dig out rectangles half a meter deep, line them with clay, then put a ball of an equipartite mixture (peat, humus, sand) there, everything is covered with a film plus sawdust on top. Some people make high fill beds, according to the principle of a high flower bed, filled with the above mixture. Others generally prefer hydroponics for strawberry sprout boxes. In general, everyone has their own experience and many years of experimentation is in full swing.

It is also highly recommended to cultivate and globally clean the upper working layer of the earth for a new planting, since during the operation of the bed (ideally, this is a 3-year cycle) the earth gets tired and depleted, and many harmful insects and their larvae accumulate. Experienced gardeners are not advised to grow strawberries in beds after tomatoes or potatoes. The break in use should be about 6-7 years. But after grain crops for growing strawberries, the earth becomes very suitable and suitable in terms of chemical composition.

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Garden covers

Many recommend covering new beds with a film or, as they used to practice, with roofing material, sometimes waterproofing, and even pine sawdust for environmental friendliness (pine sawdust or needles have long been used as an anti-fungal agent and a basis for even building houses: the layer was placed directly on the ground under a wooden or clay floor, especially in humid and rainy climates). Seedlings should be staggered into the film cuts at a distance of 30-45 cm from each other. But there is an opinion, based on personal gardening practice, that the film accumulates fungi, mold and insect larvae; moreover, it is not environmentally friendly and unhygienic.

Now agrofibre is becoming very popular, reviews about it are quite good: the earth receives sufficient aeration, weeds germinate worse, and then the berries do not touch the ground, the harvest is cleaner and the risk of rotting is less.

Such soil coating technologies are due to the need to preserve seeds when it comes to germinating seeds for strawberry seedlings, and the need for free access to sunlight during the germination period, as well as the further competitive ability of the germinated seedlings in relation to grass and weeds.

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Preparing seeds and seedlings for planting

The seeds need about 25-30 days to germinate. Young sprouts are very delicate, and they also need very gentle watering: a gentle stream of water and not directly on the sprouts. The soil must be kept constantly moist - young seedlings must not dry out.

If we are already planting seedlings in the prepared soil, then before planting in the formed holes, the seedlings themselves need to cut the root system a little and dip them into potassium permanganate. If the seedlings are not grown, but purchased, and even "dormant", it is first required to inspect, clean up and wake it up, after holding it in a warm sunny place. The best time for planting is May-June. Warm, set weather is desirable.

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Fertilizing the soil

Strawberries need careful and high-quality fertilization.

The soil, in principle, is very different, only you need to carefully consider its fertilization: in the fall (in October), manure is added to the plowed soil, and in the spring, during the planting period, the necessary nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium are introduced. Strawberries need to be well fed. Analysis and control for the presence of the required amount of nutrients in the soil is desirable.

Also, according to the results, further adjustments are made to the required application rates for mineral fertilizers. Magnesium, for example, is added before preparing the soil, phosphorus - before planting the strawberries itself, nitrogen and potassium - half before planting, half as top dressing during flowering and growing season. For 1 ha, 50 kg of phosphorus, 80 kg of nitrogen, 100 kg of potassium and 100 kg of magnesium are taken. Experts also recommend adding micronutrient supplements. Also, strawberries are mandatory mulched twice a year. The first - during the ripening of the first harvest, the second - in the fall. Mulching is carried out with peat and sawdust, some prepare their own version from herbs growing in the garden and garden. Strawberries should be mulched in the aisle without touching the leaves.

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Time to board

If an autumn planting of strawberry seedlings is carried out, then the best time is from mid-August to the end of September. That is, it is still warm enough, and the nights are not so cold, and the soil is still acceptable for demanding heat-loving strawberry sprouts. Well, and in the spring we plant seedlings as soon as the first good warm spring days begin. We also lay the beds on the southeastern, southern and southwestern sides of your summer cottage.If there are southern slopes well illuminated by the sun, then these are generally very good expositions for growing strawberries. The sun will help us grow our strawberries.

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Pollination

Pollination also plays a role in obtaining a rich strawberry harvest - it is worth taking care of this component of the future abundance of berries. Many put hives near the beds and even sow clover next to them - then the strawberries will be better pollinated. But if the variety is self-pollinating, then this problem is not worth it. Self-pollinated strawberries should be planted in a separate bed: popular among them are Selva, Elisanta, Tribute, Queen Elizabeth, Maria, Tristar and others.

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Strawberry diseases

Strawberry diseases, for example, gray rot (fungal disease) and powdery mildew, also require attention. Seedlings need to be treated during the growing season and before the first flowering with drugs such as Fundazol and Horus. Against the transparent strawberry mite, the biggest "lover" of strawberries and its young leaves, we use Aktelikom, known to many gardeners. They can process leaves, roots and the entire rosette, both during the growing season and throughout the summer period until the end of the fruiting season, in general until mid-August.

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Watering strawberries

Proper watering in strawberry cultivation is of great importance. Watering should not be done with a plentiful stream of water, but by drip. But a sufficient daily volume of water is also necessary: ​​the soil under the strawberry bushes must be well moistened, but not flooded, otherwise the strawberry roots will begin to rot.

As a result, a serious list of conditions for a responsible attitude to the cultivation of such a crop as the beloved fragrant strawberry is typed, but observing them will give the desired result: a delicious harvest on your table and grateful smiles of your family.

Table of contents:

• Choosing a strawberry variety
• Strawberry planting rules
• Crop care basics
• Reproduction and some other aspects

Strawberries are one of the favorites of most gardeners. Many strive to grow it, and who would not want to have strawberries of their own production? That is why many are interested in the question of how to properly grow this most useful and delicious berry in their garden.

Strawberry structure.

It should be noted that in the cultivation of strawberries there are several important rules that will help to achieve an excellent and rather large harvest.

These rules are simple enough, but without them you will not be able to grow strawberries. And it's worth finding out about it as soon as possible! So how to grow strawberries in your garden?

Choosing a strawberry variety

One-line diagram of planting strawberries.

The correct choice of the variety is already almost half of the success. This knowledge will help you find exactly the option that will require a minimum of effort, physical and material costs.

Since Soviet times, it was believed that for cultivation in the garden, it is worth choosing the strawberry variety that is characteristic of a particular region. But practice and some studies have shown and proved that many foreign varieties of this berry take root well in the middle lane.

It is worth listing the most fertile and well-grown foreign strawberry varieties. These include varieties called Jorneya, Gigant, Elsanta, Gigantella Maxi, Elan F1, Albion, Corona, Clery, Holiday, Everest, Tsarina, Queen Elizabeth II, Cardinal, Bogota, Brighton and some others. As for domestic varieties, here the indisputable leader (and not without reason) for many years has been the Moscow Yubileinaya strawberry variety. The people call her Mashenka. Its taste can be called ideal, especially in relation to the ease of growing.

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Strawberry planting rules

Strawberry planting rules.

First you need to choose the right place to land. In the wrong conditions, the berry will grow poorly, and all efforts will be reduced to nothing.So, for planting strawberries, you need to choose a sunny place with fertile soil that should be well fertilized, for example, with humus and compost. Fertilizers must be sufficiently mature.

The ideal time for planting is spring. The soil must be warm enough, so it is worth waiting for the final completion of the frost. Moreover, even the time of day is an important factor for planting strawberries. Therefore, you need to know that it is worth planting this crop in the evening in soil that is moderately moist. Strawberries don't like excessive moisture.

Before planting, it is necessary to pinch the longest root, cut off the leaves, of which no more than three pieces should be left. These conditions must be met as this will ensure a high yield. And it will be much larger than that of a strawberry planted in the fall.

After planting, you need to carefully monitor that the mustache of another strawberry variety does not fall into the strawberry garden. It would also be desirable to tear off the first peduncles. This is necessary for better rooting of the bushes.

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Crop care basics

Growing strawberries in tires.

Strawberry care will not be a big problem if you follow all the rules. For example, you need to be aware that whiskers and shoots must be removed in a timely manner. It is also important to water the strawberries 2-3 times a week, but do not overflow them, since, as mentioned earlier, they do not like excessive moisture.

Regular loosening of the soil and removal of weeds is an important condition for the quality cultivation of any crop, especially strawberries. It is extremely demanding on the condition of the soil, which, by the way, must be constantly fertilized. One bush will require about 2-3 handfuls of organic fertilizer.

Some gardeners make an annoying mistake when caring for strawberries. The thing is that after the harvest, they stop caring for her, which is a colossal blunder. This can lead to the fact that next season you will not have to enjoy the fruits of this beautiful berry.

Strawberries continue to grow in the fall, but, of course, without fruit. It is necessary to remove dried or yellow leaves in time, as well as water the bushes according to the specified regime. Do not forget about soil care. In winter, it is worth filling the beds with rotten manure, and then covering them with foil to protect them from snow.

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Reproduction and some other aspects

Diagram of types of pyramids for growing strawberries.

For breeding, it is recommended to use the first two sockets of each whisker. This will allow you to get the maximum amount of harvest in the first year. Only a few elite varieties are propagated using seeds. They will require the use of a special growth stimulant that is sold in the store. This kind of drugs include "Zircon", "Epin" and some others.

There are also a number of tricks that will allow you to grow a good harvest with excellent taste and other qualities.

For example, if you plant marigolds or marigolds next to strawberries, this will help protect them from nematodes and powdery mildew. And fungal diseases will not occur if calendula grows next to the strawberries. It will also save you from root rot. In the fall, the calendula is cut, and its root remains in the ground.

You can improve the taste of the berry with the help of pine litter, which is poured under each bush with a layer of about 5 centimeters. In addition, strawberries can successfully coexist with strawberries.

In general, you need to know that strawberries can grow in the same place for 5 years. After this time, she needs to find another place. If this is not possible, then it is worth giving the land a rest, and temporarily not growing strawberries. This will make the soil fertile again.

During the period of "rest" on this land, you can plant carrots or beans. After a year, it is worth planting pumpkin crops, and after them nightshades can follow.Only after this time can strawberries be planted in the soil again.

Thus, everyone can plant this tasty and healthy berry in their own garden! And today's rules and advice will help in this. May the cultivation be successful and the harvest great!

Strawberries are a variety of domesticated strawberries that delight with their juicy, sweet berries. The plant is not whimsical, therefore it is suitable for growing in a summer cottage, but constant care is needed to get large and tasty fruits.

Choosing the right base

Strawberries take root well on black soil, loamy soil enriched with humus, sandy loam soil or dark gray forest soil. At the same time, the acidity of the site should not exceed 6.5, in Otherwise, it must be reduced with the help of alkaline substances, which are introduced in the autumn.

It is preferable to choose a straight surface so that when watering, water is evenly distributed over all strawberry bushes, or with a slight slope. If an untouched area overgrown with weeds is allocated for planting, they just need to be broken through and left to rot, without digging up the ground. Dug beds need additional fertilization: compost or humus can be used.

Advice: It is recommended to start planting a crop in early spring or in August-September, so that strawberries have time to adapt to external conditions and take root. June seedlings bear fruit not earlier than next year, and with severe drought they can wither and disappear.

Methods for obtaining a strawberry preparation

To obtain strawberry seedlings from seeds, you will need to prepare wooden boxes with black soil mixed in equal proportions with peat, or buy special soil for plants, which is sold in specialized stores.

The earth is watered abundantly, shallow holes are dug into which the seeds are placed, and the container is covered with glass, without burying the raw materials. The box must be placed in a warm room, and wait until the first green shoots appear on the surface. The glass is removed and the plant is placed on a windowsill in warm sunlight.

After the formation of several leaves, the strawberry bushes are carefully cropped and transplanted into separate pots so that the seedlings grow stronger and can be transplanted into open ground. Seeds are obtained from ripe strawberries: the thin top layer is removed and rubbed through cheesecloth. They are washed with water, dried and sent to linen bags for storage.

In autumn, strawberry blanks can be obtained from fruit-bearing bushes, in which tendrils eventually sprout into the ground and take root, turning into full-fledged seedlings. Such sprouts are carefully separated from the main bush, dug up together with a small amount of soil, and transplanted to a new site.

A simple way is to buy ready-made strawberry seedlings on the market or ask friends, but such strawberries must be planted on the first or second day after purchase. You can store tubers in the basement if the roots are covered with earth, additionally they are wrapped with a piece of newspaper or wet moss.

Advice: Good tubers should have from 3 to 5 leaves, a developed root system with a length of 7 cm or more, with a root collar with a diameter of 6 mm.

The first method of planting: roofing material

You will need a hose with small holes from a gypsy needle or awl, which will be used to water the strawberry beds. At one end, it is plugged with a wooden stopper or an alternative device, the other is connected to a water source. In some cases, they accommodate huge tanks, and even old washing machines, the main thing is to equip the item with a tap.

Using thin ropes, the site is divided into rows, between which a watering hose is laid. From above, the ground is covered with roofing material, you can use film or cardboard, but these materials are not as strong and quickly deteriorate. Sunlight should not get inside, so the edges are sprinkled with earth, pressed down with boards or stones.It is important not to forget to leave a special path that will ensure comfortable movement.

A hole in the form of a cross is carefully cut in the film with a knife for each individual bush, after which they pierce the ground at the place of the cut with a thin peg to make a hole. The hole is filled with water, and the seedlings are carefully pushed in, compactly ramming the earth around. Additionally, it is worth dipping the roots in a clay solution so that the strawberries take root faster.

Advice: The distance between the holes should be about 40 cm, between the rows - 20-30 cm. It is difficult for the plant to take root in too loose soil, so the soil must be well crushed.

Pyramids like in Egypt

An alternative way of planting strawberries is pyramid structures, for which you need to make three square sandboxes of different sizes. The largest is placed at the bottom, covered with soil, and another is installed on top, repeating the manipulations with the ground. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm around the perimeter of the structure, an irrigation system is additionally equipped, and they are protected from frost with a film.

Instead of planks, car tires of various diameters are also used. The design provides good lighting, does not take up much space and makes maintenance easier.

Proper plant care

The beds are fertilized with ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, poultry droppings and mullein. When the first strawberries appear, the soil around the tubers is mulched using straw or sawdust to protect the berries from contact with the ground - the technique will prevent rotting.

Additionally, the beds are weeded to get rid of weeds and are watered regularly, especially in hot weather.

The crop is torn off together with the stalks, after the last harvest, the antennae are cut off, the strawberries are fertilized with a mixture of dolomite flour with wood ash. Sprinkle on top of the beds with organic fertilizer, peat or thin branches to protect from winter frosts.

In the spring, it is necessary to clear the area of ​​leaves and branches, pick off the yellowed leaves, leaving only young green sprouts. Every 3-5 years, you need to change the site, planting new seedlings, and old bushes in the fall are pulled out and destroyed so that bacteria do not appear in the ground.

Care video tips

Protection against negative impact

Powdery mildew is evidenced by leaves curling inward. The protective agent is prepared from 1.5 g of potassium permanganate, which must be diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water.

Additionally, in the autumn months, the bushes are treated with liquid soap (1/3 cup), vegetable oil refried in a pan (one third of a glass), wood ash (100 g) and vinegar (2 tablespoons), which are mixed in water.

Using the recommendations, you can always please your family with fresh and environmentally friendly strawberries.

Foreword

Almost every summer resident asks how to grow strawberries at home and still get a good harvest, large and sweet berries. The main task in this case is not to use any pesticides and substances harmful to human health, so that the berries contain only useful substances at the time of harvest. It takes a lot of work to propagate and care for strawberries, especially if you want to get a lot of bushes next year and still enjoy a sweet harvest this year. How to do everything correctly, what planting and care technique to choose, how to cook strawberries for winter so that all the bushes remain "alive" in the spring, and much more is read further in the article!

How to grow strawberries in the country - we select the right variety and hybrid, depending on the conditions of care

The first step is to decide what you need strawberries for, for yourself or for sale. If you grow it only for your own needs, then it is best to give preference to domestic selection - the berries will be much tastier, do not require special care, but their size is an order of magnitude smaller.

For sale, it will be best to grow strawberries of the Dutch and American selection - a very large mass of fruit, but the taste is always inferior to our strawberries.

Among the main varieties bred in Europe are very popular:

• Queen Elizabeth - the variety is unpretentious to the soil, grows even on sandy and clay soils, has a very high yield - it bears fruit 2 times per season, and the second time is no worse than the first in the number of berries harvested and their weight. The only big disadvantage of the variety is that the berries are very juicy, but have a "sourness" that does not satisfy the requirements of many buyers. That is why Queen Elizabeth is grown exclusively for her own needs and by lovers of such berries. It goes well for jam if you add more sugar.
• Zenga Zengana is a very good German variety, which in many European countries is No. 1 in the garden beds. Its main advantage is great for freezing. It bears fruit well, but the first berries are large, up to 80 grams alone, and the subsequent ones are very small, so only the first "wave" of the harvest is often harvested.
• Hani - despite its name, the berry has very little similarity to honey, as it has a "sourness" even at the stage of technical ripeness. The greatest "plus" of this grade is transportability. This strawberry can be transported over long distances, it lies very well and does not lose either its external aesthetics or its properties. The berries are small, but the bushes bear fruit well.

These are the most famous varieties that plant on the territory of Russia, but are the result of plant breeding in Europe and America. As for domestic varieties, there are many of them, but only a few are especially popular, namely:

• Daryonka - very tasty and large berries. The main advantage is early ripeness, the first berries weigh up to 40-50 grams, the next 15-20 grams. It has a strawberry flavor at full technical ripeness, very sweet, juicy. Berries come in different shapes depending on the amount of light and fertilization.
• Divnaya is an excellent variety of the Leningrad selection, it has a very powerful bush, large and dry berries, which are very conveniently transported. The advantages include the increased sweetness of the variety, its resistance to frost and drought, as well as long-term fruiting - the berries ripen evenly for several months in a row. Despite the fact that the plant is very fond of pests, the labor of eliminating them will be generously rewarded with a good harvest!
• Maryshka. The main advantage of the variety is the driest berry known in Russia. It is very well stored, transported, and its taste is superior to many well-known domestic and foreign varieties - the berries are extremely sweet, taste like strawberries and have a strong smell. Does not require special care and watering, unlike Daryonka and Divnaya.

A lot depends on the variety, in particular the yield of your berries and their sweetness. But it is worth remembering that to a greater extent, the taste is influenced by the care of berries and watering. Even the best variety will have a "sourness" if it is constantly poured with water and used a lot of leaf dressing, and with a lack of moisture, the berries will be very small and irregular in shape, but extremely sweet. It is necessary to provide the plant with the optimal ratio of moisture and fertilizers, and only then will the berries be large and tasty.

We plant seedlings correctly

After you have selected the strawberry seedlings and brought them to the place, it will be for the planting. The process must be given due attention, because not only the yield, but also the possibility of subsequent processing and reproduction of strawberries will directly depend on how you place the bushes.

When landing, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Plant strawberries only in a row or in cells, especially if you are placing several varieties at once in the same area.This is necessary in order not to confuse the bushes when they throw out the antennae, it is convenient to weed during fruiting, and also to collect strawberries without damaging new bushes. It grows very much and one bush (if you are engaged in the propagation of strawberries, and not getting a harvest in the first year) can occupy up to 1 m2 of area!
2. Plant seedlings only with the land in which it was before. You can pre-place the roots in water for a couple of hours to absorb as much moisture as possible. After disembarking, be sure to fill the hole with water - strawberries are sensitive to drought in the first days and often disappear if the soil is not thoroughly moistened right away.
3. Plant in pits or make furrows for water, so that when watering under the root, water collects and saturates the ground with moisture as much as possible.
4. Do not damage the roots, do not prune and do not carry out any operations that violate the integrity of the plant - you must first let the roots harden for 1 week, then weed, loosen, and the like.

Planting correctly is half the battle, as strawberries are resistant to droughts, pests and other troubles, but very sensitive to any changes in planting or replanting. As for the temperature, it is necessary to plant it when the thermometer is at least +7 0С at night, since the roots need to quickly strengthen and grow, and at temperatures below this, there is a risk of plant death immediately after planting.

Strawberries in the country - care and weed control

Strawberry care is difficult. More precisely, it is laborious, since you will have to perform certain actions almost every week to improve the conditions for the growth and development of the bushes. First of all, special attention is paid to weeds. They can be dealt with in several ways:

1. Weeding and pulling out weeds is the most common method and involves manual labor. Suitable for small areas of strawberries. It is necessary to ensure that the strawberries are as pure as possible, and nothing interferes with their development. Even in the absence of weeds, it is necessary to carry out periodic weeding - it kills the "threads" (the remnants of the root system of weeds and young seedlings that are contained in the upper ball of the soil and suck out useful substances).
2. Agrofibre or black film. This is a relatively new technology, which implies covering the entire area with a film or special black fiber, through which light does not pass. Weeds do not grow, but a hole is made in place of the bushes through which the bush is pulled out. Thus, only strawberries have access to light. The advantages of this method:

• berries are not in the ground, they are always clean;
• more moisture accumulates, strawberries should be watered less often;
• weeds do not need to be removed - they do not grow under the film.

3. Pesticide. This method implies treatment with continuous herbicides such as Hurricane or Roundup before planting strawberries, but we will not consider it, since any pesticides have a bad effect on human health.

Watering also plays an important role. If you can't make a drip, you need to ensure watering using sprayers. Keep the top layer of the earth constantly moist. Watering is best at night or in the evening, about 1 time for 3-4 days.

Strawberries love the sun, but with an excess of it, the leaves can "burn". They turn orange. If possible, then you need to cover the area with a "shade" - a special mesh that reduces the amount of light transmitted to the area.

Growing technique "for antennae" and "for berries"

If you start growing strawberries, you need to immediately decide what you want to get this year. The yield of strawberries directly depends on the number of tendrils (reproductive organs of strawberries). If there are a lot of antennae, do not expect a good harvest, since all the energy of the plant will go to throwing out additional shoots and the formation of new bushes.If you break off the antennae before the end of the fruiting of the bush, you will not get healthy and strong new bushes for the winter.

There is only one way out - to divide the site and choose the bushes that you will have for fruiting, and others for reproduction. The first bushes (on which you plan to grow large berries) should be absolutely without antennae - they must be cut off immediately when they appear and the plant should not be allowed to spend nutrients on them. It is best to leave no more than 10 berries on each bush in the first year - then they will be large, juicy and sweet. With a large number of berries, the bush does not have enough energy for fruiting, and the strawberries will be small.

Other bushes that you plan to propagate should be left without berries so that the antennae develop faster. After a new bush (2-3 pairs of leaves) appears at the end of the antennae and it bends to the ground, it must be stuck a little into the soil and poured abundantly with water. After a few weeks, when the bush takes root, the shoot will go further from it - it needs to be cut off with pruning shears so that the first bush develops better. As a result, at the end of September you will already have a full-fledged one more bush, in size as the first. Everything, you can cut off the pruning shears from the "mother" and transplant to the place you need. When transplanting, it is better to dig it up and pull it out of the soil with the ground in which the root has taken root - the bush will take root much faster.

Processing strawberries from pests and diseases - what is needed and what not to do

Strawberries practically do not suffer from the invasion of any pests, its diseases are mostly the cause of a lack of fertilizers or abundant sunlight.

In any case, you should remember what should not be done in the process of growing strawberries:

• Never treat with strong pesticides, as many harmful components then remain in the plant and in berries... There are more gentle ways to eliminate insects: treatment with copper sulfate, soapy water, salt mixture - this does not harm a person, but insects will never attack the treated bushes!
• Do not use any preparations containing acids, as well as fertilizers. Do not use phosphoric granules, additives containing sulfur or other similar ingredients.
• When processing BI-58 or derivatives of pesticides, make sure that the harvest is carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after the last treatment.

Very often, strawberries turn yellow and lag behind in development - this is the first sign that the plant is receiving excess sunlight or lack of fertilization. If it is not possible to make a shade over the strawberries, just water it every day for the evening and, after watering, add foliar top dressing, best of all - carbamide (30 g / 1 bucket). As soon as the bush turns green, top dressing is stopped.

Brown spotting is a major problem in strawberry cultivation. The old leaves of the bush have brown spots, and then they completely become that color. These bushes reproduce and bear fruit very poorly. Treatment is carried out with Bayleton (15 g / 10 l of water) after flowering plants, the spotting will disappear after 1-2 weeks.

White spot - both young and old leaves are exposed to it, white spots are formed. Soon, these spots can destroy the leaf blade, the plant will stop metabolism. Treatment with Bayleton (15 g / 10 l of water) is also carried out immediately after flowering and 2-3 weeks after the first spraying.

Powdery mildew. Many varieties of strawberries are exposed to it, as a result of which the leaf blade curls up into a tube, and there is a white bloom on the bottom of it. The leaves soon die, the bush lags behind in development, and in some cases dries up completely.

Different types of aphids are rare, but it happens that strawberries are exposed to an aphid infestation, especially when the year turned out to be very humid. You can fight it before harvesting with Aktofit (1 g is dosed per liter of water).

What should be done with berries before winter and how to protect bushes from freezing at -30 0С?

Preparing a plant for the winter is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge and effort. The main thing is that the plant does not become icy and freeze, otherwise there is a high probability of its death. If the winter is snowy and the snow falls before the ground cools down to -10 ° C, then there will be no problems at all, and the strawberries can easily wait out long frosts of 30-40 degrees under a white carpet. But you should not rely on weather conditions, and it is better to protect your crop from freezing. This can be done in the following ways:

1. Falling asleep with needles of strawberries. The most effective method, which involves throwing a layer of needles 6-7 centimeters on top of the strawberry leaves, which are bent to the ground for the winter. Such a shelter will reliably protect the plant from any frost, and under the snow the strawberries will be even warmer.
2. Wood sawdust. At any woodworking plant, you can take a lot of sawdust for a penny and cover the entire strawberry area with them. They not only protect it from the cold, but also become an excellent fertilizer, after the wood rotted in the spring rains. In the spring, the "cover" can be removed from the bushes with a rake and left in the aisles.
3. Sprinkle with earth. The method is very laborious, since in the spring you will have to pull each bush out of the ground, clean, level the ground.

If you do everything right and follow the instructions, you will not only get tasty and large berries in a couple of months, but also multiply the bushes and get 4-5 times more plants next year! Growing tasty and healthy berries at home is not only easy, but also pleasant, as they are natural and healthy!