How to grow wisteria at home?

Luxurious wisteria, or wisteria, with long, low-hanging tassels of lilac, purple or white flowers will be an exotic decoration of any garden or house area. The plant propagates by cuttings, grafts, but growing from seeds is considered the most reliable method.

Germination of seedlings

In fact, wisteria is a subtropical liana and in nature it parasitizes on trees. There are 9 varieties of it, but two of the most popular are used in gardening and landscape gardening: Chinese wisteria and abundant flowering, also called Japanese. This tree-like climbing plant belongs to the genus of legumes, so the seeds are beans and ripen in pods that form from faded flowers.
Planting seeds is carried out at the very beginning of winter. Beforehand, the beans need to be prepared - soak, spreading between layers of wet gauze. So they are kept until the seeds "hatch".

Finished beans are planted in a container with prepared soil. The soil mixture for wisteria should consist of three-quarters of leafy soil, a quarter of turf and sand. The seeds are planted shallow, about a centimeter, and sprinkled with a layer of sand on top.

Important! A drainage layer should be poured at the bottom of the container, otherwise you can not wait for seedlings - the plant does not like excessive moisture.

Then the container is covered with foil or glass and removed to a shaded warm place. Seedling care rules:

1. The temperature should be constantly kept at 23-25 ​​degrees.
2. The soil should be regularly moistened moderately, avoiding drying out.
3. Film or glass - clean from condensation by ventilating the container with seeds.

With the appearance of the first shoots, you can begin to adapt to the sun - daily expose the container to indirect sunlight for a couple of hours.

When two leaves are formed at the seedlings, the seedlings are dived into separate containers. The transplant must be carried out carefully, taking the plant along with a lump of root soil, and watering the first time with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The planted seedlings are taken out to a cool, lighted place for several hours every day, accustoming them to their future habitat.

Seedling care

All of the above procedures will take five months: if the seeds were planted in early December, then they will be ready for transfer to the garden in May.

Gardener's advice. Many people prefer to germinate wisteria seeds immediately in the open field, choosing a suitable place in the garden.

In this case, you need to start in early spring, carefully taking care of the seedlings during the summer. By the fall, the seedlings will already get strong enough, and most importantly, they will be hardy and initially adapted to the conditions of the site.
For the first time, wisteria planted in the garden is looked after in the standard way: they are regularly watered, fed with specialized fertilizers, and covered for the winter. As the plant grows, it will have to establish a strong support around which it will twine. Chinese wisteria gives its first flowering at 3-5 years of age, and Japanese - after 10 years.
An adult plant blooms almost all spring and summer, endlessly pleasing the eyes of both the owner, who spent a lot of effort on growing an exotic beauty, and his guests.

Wisteria (aka Wisteria) - a wonderful plant, in spring, covered with numerous clusters of fragrant inflorescences.

This tree-like liana is very effective and attractive, it can decorate even the most sophisticated landscape.

Unfortunately this very thermophilic the inhabitant of humid subtropical regions is not able to grow in regions with cold snowy winters.

The only way out is to grow a beauty and take care of her in the house.

You can do it 2 ways: Grow as a full tree-like plant or form a bonsai.

…

Indoor wisteria: care

How to care for wisteria at home? Wisteria cannot be counted among the problem-free and unpretentious indoor plants.

To grow her will have to work hard.

Next, we will talk about the wisteria plant: photos, home and garden care, diseases and pests.

Photo

Wisteria flower: photo at home.

Landing

The root system of wisteria is small, therefore, you should not take too large a container for growing it. At the bottom of the container, it is imperative to lay out a layer of stones (expanded clay, pebbles, broken brick). It will not only serve as drainage, but also make the pot heavier so that the tree does not turn over with its own weight.

The soil must it is good to let water and air to the roots, to be fertile and nutritious. It is most optimal to combine river sand, humus, high moor peat in equal quantities and add sod soil to the same volume. A seedling is placed in this mixture and watered abundantly.

Growing from seeds does not pose any particular difficulties. They need to be placed in a small box on the surface of the substrate and not sprinkled with earth on top. Germinate in a greenhouse (you can cover the container with glass or polyethylene film) in the dark.

If the soil is always moist, the seeds will germinate in 20-27 days. For the next 9-12 days, the sprouts are gradually accustomed to light.

In separate cups, sprouts can be dived after the appearance of two true leaves.

Watering

The active vegetation of wisteria begins in the spring... It is at this time that they begin to water it, observing moderation. 1-2 times a week will be enough. You can pour water along the edge of the container so as not to erode the soil and expose the roots.

In autumn development is suspended, therefore, watering must be reduced, carrying out the procedure very rarely.

Air humidity

In the warm season, wisteria needs in frequent spraying and rather high humidity. By winter, this procedure is stopped.

Temperature regime

Wisterias are vital it is necessary to provide a pronounced rest period in winter... At this time, it is kept at a temperature of 5-9 °. To do this, the pot is taken out to the basement or to a cold veranda.

If you leave the vine warm, at best, it will not bloom in the spring, and at worst it will die.

From mid-February, they begin to accustom the tree to heat, gradually increasing the temperature. In a couple of weeks, the wisteria will be able to live in the house.

For summer It is recommended to transfer wisteria to the street, placing it in the front garden or on the balcony. At this time, she perfectly tolerates any heat with regular spraying.

Top dressing

Liana needs extra food only during bud formation and subsequent flowering... It can be fertilized with any mineral concentrate for flowering plants.

For feeding wisteria, liquid fertilizers are most suitable, with which you can spray the tree from above or shed the soil.

Life span

With the right content, wisteria can live for a very long time, because it refers to long-lived perennials.

Bloom

Whoever saw the wisteria bloom will never forget it! Waterfall of the most beautiful fragrant earrings white, pink, blue or lilac color looks very picturesque and attractive.

You can watch this delightful sight from the beginning of spring to the autumn cold.

Reproduction

To get new plants, you can use one of the possible methods:

1. Collect seeds
2. Make layering
3. Rooting cuttings or green shoots

Seeds do not convey varietal characteristics hybrid species.

And these videos tell about the care of garden wisteria.

Diseases

Wisteria does not have strong disease resistance... It can be attacked by both fungi and viruses.

Powdery mildew

When attacked by fungi, the leaves covered with an ugly whitish layer... It is easily erased, but is soon re-announced.

The leaves begin to dry out and fall off, the branches are deformed, the plant stops developing.

Destroy harmful fungi will help the latest generations of fungicides: Previkur, Vitaros, Fundazol, Skor. The selected preparation is abundantly treated with the ground parts of the vine. Typically, two treatments are required.

Chlorosis

It occurs when there is a serious deficiency of iron in the soil. The leaves stop producing chlorophyll and gradually turn yellow... Only the veins remain green.

It is advisable to completely replace the soil and feed with one of the iron preparations. Iron chelate, Ferrylene, Ferovit, Antichlorosis can be used.

To make the drugs work faster, they are recommended to spray the plant from above, and not spill the earth.

Pests

The most malevolent enemies of wisteria are the clover mites and aphids.

Aphid

If the leaves begin to dry, the branches bend, the flowers become smaller, and the plant withers, then a colony of aphids attacked the wisteria.

Get rid of these small parasites you can use one of the modern insecticides: Fitoverm, Karate, Intavir, Aktellik.

Clover mite

A small parasite with an oval body of an inconspicuous green or brown color. It is very difficult to notice it - the body length barely reaches 0.4 mm. The attack can be detected by characteristic external signs.

The surface of the leaves is covered with small light strokes, then cracks. The affected leaves are twisted.

They work great against ticks acaricides, completely ridding the plant of parasites. You can use Nissoran, Sunmite, Apollo, Fitoverm, Oberon, Omite.

Wisteria is rarely grown as a houseplant, as it requires special conditions of detention. It is not suitable for beginner growers and people with an acute shortage of time.

Wisteria is a beautiful climbing plant from the tree-like legume family. It gets along well in mild climates, blooms very brightly and profusely. The adorable hanging clusters of inflorescences cannot leave anyone indifferent.

Content:

• Description of the appearance of wisteria
• Varieties of wisteria
• Preparing for landing
• Planting and growing process
• Helpful care tips
• Pests and diseases

Description of the appearance of wisteria

The first appearance of the curly beauty was recorded in North America and East Asia in the subtropical regions. The plant is a perennial with woody vines. The vines grow rapidly and reach 40 meters in length.

Wisteria definitely needs a support, preferably wooden. If the trellis is made of concrete, the uncovered shoots will freeze in winter. If a bush instead of a support develops on the trunk of another plant, then over time the tree will die. Wisteria in wildlife, like all vines, is a parasite.

Vine leaves are large, densely arranged. Each leaf is assembled from 10-15 individual green feathers and reaches up to 30 cm in length.

Flowering begins in June and lasts until mid-autumn. Inflorescences grow up to 70 cm. Flowers come in different colors: from purple and lilac to white. A young stepson is able to bloom only in the 5th year of life, in rare cases in the 4th.

Wisteria gives off an interesting delicate scent, especially bright at night.The scent is resistant and spreads over large areas.

In order for the plant to bloom again, the faded inflorescences are removed. If you do not cut the flowers, then pods with seeds inside are formed. The fruits take on a rounded shape with a white edge. Each house contains 2-3 seeds.

Wisteria seeds vary in appearance. Some fruits are green with brown spots, while others are brown with green veins. They are easy to grow on your own at home.

Thus, the liana is interesting not only for its appearance and original flowers, but also for the formation of the leaf and seeds.

Varieties of wisteria

Before you start planting a future plant, it is recommended to decide on the type. There are enough lianas in nature. The most famous types for gardeners are:

1. Chinese
2. Profusely blooming
3. Shrub
4. Lovely
5. Large-leaf

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

A woody shrub that grows up to 25 m in height. Twists the vine only counterclockwise. Shoots are thin, gray. The buds appear in mid-late spring, all opening at the same time with a violet-blue tint. It emits a faint, pleasant aroma.

Abundant wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)

The shrub is not branched, reaching only 10 meters in height. Hardy, does not require shelter. The leaf is powerful, up to 40 cm long. The flowers are small, bloom gradually, thereby contributing to a longer flowering. The inflorescences go down 60 cm. There are several subspecies of this wisteria:

1. White - Alba
2. Pink - Rosea
3. Purple full - Violaceo-plana
4. Red - Rubrum
5. Red-violet - Longissima
6. Blue - Lawrence

Shrub (Wisteria frutescens)

A low-growing plant, does not exceed 12 meters in height. Leaves are glossy, consist of paired feathers (up to 8 pairs), stretching 30 cm in length. The buds are arranged in dense inflorescences, no more than 15 cm, bluish-lilac color. The aroma of the vine is either imperceptible or absent.

Beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta)

Another type of undersized shrub - does not exceed 10 meters. The leaves are not large - 10 cm. The buds are white, the brushes are small. Flowering begins in May until the end of October. The fruits ripen fully in November.

Large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys)

It is characterized by long tassels - they exceed 1.5 meters. It tolerates frost well, but young shoots often freeze out. Flowers are white or purple, rarely red.

Having decided on the type, you should purchase the necessary planting material in a specialized store or collect it from a growing tree.

Preparing for landing

Wisteria propagates in different ways: by cuttings, grafting, seeds. Each of the methods is interesting and laborious, but the most effective is growing by seeds.

Sowing is more expedient to carry out immediately after the end of the collection. At this moment, the seeds have 100% germination. This early planting is necessary due to the long germination of the shoots. If planted in November or December, then in May the seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground.

Before the main rooting process, a number of activities should be carried out:

• planting material should be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate
• place for a while in a damp cloth. Seedlings should swell and hatch
• prepare the soil - the soil is loose, light, fertile. The composition of the substrate should contain leafy soil (3 parts), 1 part each of sand and turf. Some advise to add peat, but its addition only oxidizes the fertile layer.
• process the rooting container from fungus and pests. Pour boiling water over, and then wash in a solution of potassium permanganate. The same process should be repeated for
• prepared soil. It is necessary to take all measures so that the germinating young sprout does not become infected with diseases remaining in the soil or on the walls of the flowerpot

The substrate can be purchased at a specialist store.The soil will already contain all the necessary organic fertilizers necessary for the healthy growth and development of the young tree.

Thus, having prepared the substrate, capacity, and most importantly, the viable seeds that have been hatched, you can safely start planting.

Planting and growing process

Drainage from broken bricks, fragments of ceramic pots or expanded clay is laid out on the bottom of the flowerpot. The thickness should not be less than 2-3 cm.

Then the prepared soil is poured. You should not add 1.5-2 cm to the top of the flowerpot. At this level, the hatched seeds are laid out. It is necessary to place them in a horizontal position - it will be easier for the emerging sprout to find its way to the surface. After filling up the remaining soil.

To accelerate germination, it is necessary to create a greenhouse environment. Favorable temperature for germination is up to + 250C. It is recommended to cover with glass or a plastic bag. Place in a sunny place, having previously sprayed the ground with a spray bottle so that the strong pressure of water does not wash the seeds out of the soil.

From time to time it is necessary to open the greenhouse, ventilate and water. Make sure that the soil is not waterlogged. Otherwise, young shoots tend to rot and rot. But you shouldn't dry out the fertile layer either.

If condensation forms on glass or film, it is urgently removed. If this is not done, then a fungus may appear, provoking the death of a young shoot.
The first shoots begin to sprout in 3-4 weeks. The appearance of the first pair of leaves is a signal of the beginning of the hardening period. Now more often it is necessary to open or even remove greenhouse conditions, ventilate more in the fresh air, expose to the soft morning rays of the sun. Midday is fatal for young shoots.

The flowerpots should either be completely removed in a darkened place, or the window should be shaded with gauze.

After the germination of the third leaf - the first real green plumage of the curly beauty, the first fertilizing is done with mineral fertilizers.

Now you can prepare the seedling for transplanting into open ground. Dig up the necessary area in the garden, select holes 40 by 40 cm. It is imperative to remove the seedling from the flowerpot together with a lump of earth, without damaging or shaking off the soil from the roots. Such transshipment will ensure rapid rooting of the plant without diseases. Sprinkle on top with a fertile layer (humus).

Thus, the process of growing a young bush is quite simple. It is interesting to watch the first shoots and the development of new life.

 

Helpful care tips

Wisteria is a slow-growing shrub, so that it grows well, you need to properly care for the plant:

1. Provide proper watering
2. Make timely pruning
3. Apply nutritious food
4. Provide shelter for the winter months

The first fertilizer is applied at the time of transfer of the shrub to its permanent residence, if it was not added during the transfer of humus. The next dose of nutrients should be delivered when the adult buds begin to form.

You need to feed it in May-June with nitrogen fertilizers, and in July-August - with phosphorus-potassium supplements. In the first 5 years, the abundance of organic nutrients gives a good start for healthy growth of young vines. In subsequent years, it is recommended to reduce organic supplements to 1 time per month.

Do not forget about periodic pruning of the bush. After winter, all old vines are shortened by 30 cm. In the middle of summer, this process is repeated again to thin out and remove excess stepsons and side branches. In September, the last shortening of the creeper is performed during the flowering period. Young growth is reduced by 4-5 buds. Correct pruning is a good guarantee of abundant flowering of the bush next year.

Watering should be frequent but moderate. Do not make the soil a swamp. Mandatory watering for normal growth should be provided in the months of awakening of the vines and when laying flower buds.Lack of moisture adversely affects the formed buds - they fall off before they open. In the fall, watering is reduced and completely reduced.

Before winter frosts, you should cover both the vine of the bush and its roots. The latter are covered with cut grass (mulch) or collected tree bark. The covering layer should not be less than 15 cm in thickness. Such activities will help to more successfully transfer the temperature drop to a weak root system.

Young vines must be removed from the trellis. Put spruce branches on the ground under them, so that the branches do not touch the ground, and cover with foil.

Thus, proper care will not only allow you to grow a healthy, complete plant from the seed, but also ensure the longevity of the shrub.

Pests and diseases

Most often, wisteria is not attacked by pests or diseases. But, sometimes, it can be affected by the following ailments:

• Chlorosis. It appears due to the location of the bush in clay and limestone soil. The leaves turn white or lose their emerald color, turning yellow. You can get rid of the disease with the help of root feeding containing iron salts.
• Aphid. When harmful insects attack the shrub, the deformation of the shoots is observed. There is an excessive abundance of flies around the affected area, flocking to honeydew. It is emitted by parasites when they eat the juice of the leaves and buds of the vine. Treatment is carried out with insecticides in 2 stages: the first time - at the time the problem is detected, the second time - after 10 days.
• Clover mite. The leaves take on a shade of bronze. Spraying with insecticide (Melathion) is carried out. It should be sprayed 2 times after 3 weeks.
• Renal blast. The disease affects the flower buds of the vines and the formed buds. They are covered with black mold. They should be urgently cut from the trunk along with the affected vine to a healthy area. It is recommended to burn the removed vines in order to avoid a greater spread of the disease.

Thus, in order for wisteria to feel comfortable on the site, you need to be guided by some rules of planting from seeds, pruning, feeding and watering. The main thing is to constantly monitor the healthy look of the shrub. At the first sign of pests, it is advised to take extreme control measures.

Flowers wisteria(from the Greek. Glicinia - "sweet"), or wisteria (lat.Wisteria)

, belong to the genus of treelike climbing plants of the legume family, growing in subtropical regions and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of the professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania Caspar Wistar. There are 9 known species of the genus wisteria, but only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or abundantly flowering, are grown as garden crops.

Wisteria tree - description

The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous liana with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. Wisteria leaves are pinnate, pubescent in youth, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping racemes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, late March and can bloom throughout the summer. The wisteria tree is in great demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana, wrapping around the walls of a gazebo or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home, in a container way in the form of a tree, but still home wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.

Growing wisteria from seeds

How to grow wisteria from seeds.

Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December.Seeds of wisteria are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), sod earth and sand (one part at a time), sprinkle with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, covering the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist at all times. Wisteria emerges from the seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half it will be possible to transfer the seedlings to the light, organizing them protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a lump of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Wisteria seedlings.

Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out to an unheated part of the house for a couple of hours a day or kept under a slightly open window, provided that there is no draft in the room.

You can sow wisteria seeds directly into the open ground in early spring, then the seedlings grow adapted to the habitat and subsequently delight with their endurance.

Planting wisteria

When to plant wisteria.

Wisteria is planted in the spring, when the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is best not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so the sunniest place for planting is chosen and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.

How to plant wisteria.

Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously introduced mineral fertilizers into the soil at the site for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for a while - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.

Caring for wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria.

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil under it is always slightly damp, but by no means wet. If it is spring without rains, then you will have to water harder, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-Lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to water the wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to wither, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to prune dry branches, tie and guide the shoots so they don't fall and grow in the right direction. Before the onset of winter, you need to sprinkle the root rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the trunk circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, wisteria can freeze.

Blooming wisteria.

When does wisteria bloom? The Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, the Japanese at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who can wait. Wisteria of Chinese varieties blooms since April, and all the buds open at the same time. Wisteria blooming profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will build up greenery, but will not bloom.

Pruning wisteria.

Prune wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form a plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that the wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but sends them to the formation of buds. Pruning wisteria in spring is to remove the young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide the flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can give an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm. 20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you can deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush bloom of wisteria.

Reproduction of wisteria.

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by the seed method. It should be added that many of the sprouted and even grown seedlings may never give flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told our readers that seed propagation is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative propagation methods. Wisteria propagates most easily by layering. To do this, in the spring, a one-year shoot is chosen, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and laid with an incision on a pot with a clay-sod substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.

In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I do not know anyone who would actually succeed in this, but the layering took root in me.

Pests and diseases of wisteria.

Sometimes wisteria is occupied by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed with an insecticide, and ticks - with an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, chlorosis can affect it, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root feeding of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Types and varieties of wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

- densely leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. Leaves are odd-pinnate, large, pubescent at first, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac in color. The fruit is a pod up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden shape with white flowers (f. Alba) and a shape with double flowers (f. Plena).

Abundant flowering wisteria, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda),

it is colloquially "Japanese", since it comes from the Japanese islands - it differs from the Chinese in smaller size (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant, and also in their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length. The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, they bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves.

In addition to these two most popular species, the beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta), shrubby wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) are also known in the culture, on the basis of which the Blue Moon wisteria was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota, capable of wintering in the garden even without shelter.