How to grow wisteria from seeds at home?

Luxurious wisteria, or wisteria, with long, low-hanging tassels of lilac, purple or white flowers will be an exotic decoration of any garden or house area. The plant propagates by cuttings, grafts, but growing from seeds is considered the most reliable method.

Germination of seedlings

In fact, wisteria is a subtropical liana and in nature it parasitizes on trees. There are 9 varieties of it, but two of the most popular are used in gardening and landscape gardening: Chinese wisteria and abundant flowering, also called Japanese. This tree-like climbing plant belongs to the genus of legumes, so the seeds are beans and ripen in pods that form from faded flowers.
Planting seeds is carried out at the very beginning of winter. Beforehand, the beans need to be prepared - soak, spreading between layers of wet gauze. So they are kept until the seeds "hatch".

Finished beans are planted in a container with prepared soil. The soil mixture for wisteria should consist of three-quarters of leafy soil, a quarter of turf and sand. The seeds are planted shallow, about a centimeter, and sprinkled with a layer of sand on top.

Important! A drainage layer should be poured at the bottom of the container, otherwise you can not wait for seedlings - the plant does not like excessive moisture.

Then the container is covered with foil or glass and removed to a shaded warm place. Seedling care rules:

1. The temperature should be constantly kept at 23-25 ​​degrees.
2. The soil should be regularly moistened moderately, avoiding drying out.
3. Film or glass - clean from condensation by ventilating the container with seeds.

With the appearance of the first shoots, you can begin to adapt to the sun - daily expose the container to indirect sunlight for a couple of hours.

When two leaves are formed at the seedlings, the seedlings are dived into separate containers. The transplant must be carried out carefully, taking the plant along with a lump of root soil, and watering the first time with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The planted seedlings are taken out to a cool, lighted place for several hours every day, accustoming them to their future habitat.

Seedling care

All of the above procedures will take five months: if the seeds were planted in early December, then they will be ready for transfer to the garden in May.

Gardener's advice. Many people prefer to germinate wisteria seeds immediately in the open field, choosing a suitable place in the garden.

In this case, you need to start in early spring, carefully taking care of the seedlings during the summer.By the fall, the seedlings will already get strong enough, and most importantly, they will be hardy and initially adapted to the conditions of the site.
For the first time, wisteria planted in the garden is looked after in the standard way: they are regularly watered, fed with specialized fertilizers, and covered for the winter. As the plant grows, it will have to establish a strong support around which it will twine. Chinese wisteria gives its first flowering at 3-5 years of age, and Japanese - after 10 years.
An adult plant blooms almost all spring and summer, endlessly pleasing the eyes of both the owner, who spent a lot of effort on growing an exotic beauty, and his guests.

Flowers wisteria(from the Greek. Glicinia - "sweet"), or wisteria (lat.Wisteria)

, belong to the genus of treelike climbing plants of the legume family, growing in subtropical regions and attracting attention with their fragrant, hanging purple inflorescences. The Latin name "wisteria" was given to the wisteria flower in honor of the professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania Caspar Wistar. There are 9 known species of the genus Wisteria, but only Chinese wisteria and Japanese wisteria, or abundantly flowering, are grown as garden crops.

Wisteria tree - description

The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous liana with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. Wisteria leaves are odd-pinnate, pubescent in youth, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping racemes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, late March and can bloom throughout the summer. The wisteria tree is in great demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana, wrapping around the walls of a gazebo or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home, in a container way in the form of a tree, but still home wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.

Growing wisteria from seeds

How to grow wisteria from seeds.

Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Seeds of wisteria are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy earth (four parts), sod earth and sand (one part at a time), sprinkle with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, covering the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist at all times. Wisteria emerges from the seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half it will be possible to transfer the seedlings to the light, organizing them protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a lump of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Wisteria seedlings.

Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out to an unheated part of the house for a couple of hours a day or kept under a slightly open window, provided that there is no draft in the room.

You can sow wisteria seeds directly into the open ground in early spring, then the seedlings grow adapted to the habitat and subsequently delight with their endurance.

Planting wisteria

When to plant wisteria.

Wisteria is planted in the spring, when the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is best not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so the sunniest place for planting is chosen and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.

How to plant wisteria.

Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously introduced mineral fertilizers into the soil at the site for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for a while - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.

Caring for wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria.

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil under it is always slightly damp, but by no means wet. If it is spring without rains, then you will have to water harder, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-Lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to prune dry branches, tie and guide the shoots so they don't fall and grow in the right direction. Before the onset of winter, you need to sprinkle the root rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the trunk circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, wisteria can freeze.

Blooming wisteria.

When does wisteria bloom? The Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, the Japanese at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait. Wisteria of Chinese varieties blooms since April, and all the buds open at the same time. Wisteria blooming profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow greens, but will not bloom.

Pruning wisteria.

Prune wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form a plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that the wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but sends them to the formation of buds. Pruning wisteria in spring is to remove the young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide the flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can give an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm. 20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you can deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush bloom of wisteria.

Reproduction of wisteria.

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by the seed method. It should be added that many of the sprouted and even grown seedlings may never give flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told our readers that seed propagation is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative propagation methods. Wisteria propagates most easily by layering. To do this, in the spring, a one-year shoot is chosen, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and laid with an incision on a pot with a clay-sod substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cut from the mother plant only next spring.

In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I do not know anyone who could actually do this, but the layering took root in me.

Pests and diseases of wisteria.

Sometimes wisteria is occupied by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed with an insecticide, and ticks - with an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, chlorosis can affect it, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root feeding of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Types and varieties of wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

- densely leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. Leaves are odd-pinnate, large, pubescent at first, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac in color. The fruit is a pod up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden shape with white flowers (f. Alba) and a shape with double flowers (f. Plena).

Abundant flowering wisteria, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda),

it is colloquially "Japanese", since it comes from the Japanese Islands - it differs from the Chinese in smaller size (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant, and also in their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length. The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, they bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves.

In addition to these two most popular species, beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta), shrubby wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) are also known in the culture, on the basis of which the Blue Moon wisteria, capable of wintering in the garden, was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota even without shelter.

Wisteria is a beautiful climbing plant from the tree legume family. It gets along well in mild climates, blooms very brightly and profusely. The adorable hanging clusters of inflorescences cannot leave anyone indifferent.

Content:

• Description of the appearance of wisteria
• Varieties of wisteria
• Preparing for landing
• Planting and growing process
• Helpful care tips
• Pests and diseases

Description of the appearance of wisteria

The first appearance of the curly beauty was recorded in North America and East Asia in the subtropical regions. The plant is a perennial with woody vines. The vines grow rapidly and reach 40 meters in length.

Wisteria definitely needs a support, preferably wooden. If the trellis is made of concrete, the uncovered shoots will freeze in winter. If a bush instead of a support develops on the trunk of another plant, then over time the tree will die. Wisteria in wildlife, like all vines, is a parasite.

Vine leaves are large, densely arranged. Each leaf is assembled from 10-15 individual green feathers and reaches up to 30 cm in length.

Flowering begins in June and lasts until mid-autumn. Inflorescences grow up to 70 cm. Flowers come in different colors: from purple and lilac to white. A young stepson is able to bloom only in the 5th year of life, in rare cases in the 4th year.

Wisteria gives off an interesting delicate scent, especially bright at night. The scent is resistant and spreads over large areas.

In order for the plant to bloom again, the faded inflorescences are removed. If you do not cut the flowers, then pods with seeds inside are formed. The fruits take on a rounded shape with a white edge. Each house contains 2-3 seeds.

Wisteria seeds vary in appearance. Some fruits are green with brown spots, while others are brown with green veins. They are easy to grow on your own at home.

Thus, liana is interesting not only for its appearance and original flowers, but also for the formation of a leaf and seeds.

Varieties of wisteria

Before you start planting a future plant, it is recommended to decide on the type. There are enough lianas in nature. The following types are most famous for gardeners:

1. Chinese
2. Profusely blooming
3. Shrub
4. Lovely
5. Large-leaf

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

A woody shrub that grows up to 25 m in height. Twists the vine only counterclockwise. Shoots are thin, gray. The buds appear in mid-late spring, all opening at the same time with a violet-blue tint. It emits a faint, pleasant aroma.

Abundant wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)

The shrub is not branched, reaching only 10 meters in height. Hardy, does not require shelter. The leaf is powerful, up to 40 cm long. The flowers are small, bloom gradually, thereby contributing to a longer flowering. The inflorescences go down 60 cm. There are several subspecies of this wisteria:

1. White - Alba
2. Pink - Rosea
3. Purple full - Violaceo-plana
4. Red - Rubrum
5. Red-violet - Longissima
6. Blue - Lawrence

Shrub (Wisteria frutescens)

A low-growing plant, does not exceed 12 meters in height. Leaves are glossy, consist of paired feathers (up to 8 pairs), stretching 30 cm in length. The buds are arranged in dense inflorescences, no more than 15 cm, bluish-lilac color. The aroma of the vine is either imperceptible or absent.

Beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta)

Another type of undersized shrub - does not exceed 10 meters. The leaves are not large - 10 cm. The buds are white, the brushes are small. Flowering begins in May until the end of October. The fruits ripen fully in November.

Large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys)

It is characterized by long tassels - they exceed 1.5 meters. It tolerates frost well, but young shoots often freeze out. Flowers are white or purple, rarely red.

Having decided on the type, you should purchase the necessary planting material in a specialized store or collect it from a growing tree.

Preparing for landing

Wisteria propagates in different ways: by cuttings, grafting, seeds. Each of the methods is interesting and time consuming, but the most effective is growing by seeds.

Sowing is more expedient to carry out immediately after the end of collection. At this point, the seeds have 100% germination. This early planting is necessary due to the long germination of the shoots. If planted in November or December, then in May the seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground.

Before the main rooting process, a number of activities should be carried out:

• planting material should be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate
• place for a while in a damp cloth. Seedlings should swell and hatch
• prepare the soil - the soil is loose, light, fertile. The composition of the substrate should contain leafy soil (3 parts), 1 part each of sand and turf. Some advise to add peat, but its addition only oxidizes the fertile layer.
• process the rooting container from fungus and pests. Pour boiling water over, and then wash in a solution of potassium permanganate. The same process should be repeated for
• prepared soil. It is necessary to take all measures so that the germinating young sprout does not become infected with diseases remaining in the soil or on the walls of the flowerpot

The substrate can be purchased at a specialist store. The soil will already contain all the necessary organic fertilizers necessary for the healthy growth and development of the young tree.

Thus, having prepared the substrate, capacity, and most importantly, the hatched viable seeds, you can safely start planting.

Planting and growing process

Drainage from broken bricks, fragments of ceramic pots or expanded clay is laid out on the bottom of the flowerpot. The thickness should not be less than 2-3 cm.

Then the prepared soil is poured.You should not add 1.5-2 cm to the top of the flowerpot. At this level, the hatched seeds are laid out. It is necessary to place them in a horizontal position - it will be easier for the emerging sprout to find its way to the surface. After filling up the remaining soil.

To accelerate germination, it is necessary to create a greenhouse environment. Favorable temperature for germination is up to + 250C. It is recommended to cover with glass or a plastic bag. Place in a sunny place, having previously sprayed the ground with a spray bottle so that the strong pressure of water does not wash the seeds out of the soil.

From time to time it is necessary to open the greenhouse, ventilate and water. Make sure that the soil is not waterlogged. Otherwise, young shoots tend to rot and rot. But you shouldn't dry out the fertile layer either.

If condensation forms on glass or film, it is urgently removed. If this is not done, then a fungus may appear, provoking the death of a young shoot.
The first shoots begin to sprout in 3-4 weeks. The appearance of the first pair of leaves is a signal of the beginning of the hardening period. Now more often you need to open or even remove greenhouse conditions, ventilate more in the fresh air, expose to the soft morning rays of the sun. Midday is fatal for young shoots.

The flowerpots should either be completely removed in a darkened place, or the window should be shaded with gauze.

After the germination of the third leaf - the first real green plumage of the curly beauty, the first fertilizing is done with mineral fertilizers.

Now you can prepare the seedling for transplanting into open ground. Dig up the necessary area in the garden, select holes 40 by 40 cm. It is imperative to remove the seedling from the flowerpot together with a lump of earth, without damaging or shaking off the soil from the roots. Such transshipment will ensure rapid rooting of the plant without diseases. Sprinkle on top with a fertile layer (humus).

Thus, the process of growing a young bush is quite simple. It is interesting to watch the first shoots and the development of new life.

 

Helpful care tips

Wisteria is a slow-growing shrub, so that it grows well, you need to properly care for the plant:

1. Provide proper watering
2. Make timely pruning
3. Apply nutritional supplements
4. Provide shelter for the winter months

The first fertilizer is applied at the time of transfer of the shrub to its permanent residence, if it was not added during the transfer of humus. The next dose of nutrients should be delivered when the adult buds begin to form.

You need to feed it in May-June with nitrogen fertilizers, and in July-August - with phosphorus-potassium supplements. In the first 5 years, the abundance of organic nutrients gives a good start for healthy growth of young vines. In subsequent years, it is recommended to reduce organic supplements to 1 time per month.

Do not forget about periodic pruning of the bush. After winter, all old vines are shortened by 30 cm. In the middle of summer, this process is repeated again to thin out and remove excess stepchildren and side branches. In September, the last shortening of the creeper is performed during the flowering period. Young growth is reduced by 4-5 buds. Correct pruning is a good guarantee of abundant flowering of the bush for the next year.

Watering should be frequent but moderate. Do not make the soil a swamp. Mandatory watering for normal growth should be provided in the months of awakening of the vines and when laying flower buds. Lack of moisture adversely affects the formed buds - they fall off before they open. In autumn, watering is reduced and completely reduced.

Before winter frosts, cover both the vine of the bush and its roots. The latter are covered with cut grass (mulch) or collected tree bark. The covering layer should not be less than 15 cm in thickness. Such activities will help to more successfully transfer the temperature drop to a weak root system.

Young vines must be removed from the trellis.Put spruce branches on the ground under them, so that the branches do not touch the ground, and cover with foil.

Thus, proper care will not only allow you to grow a healthy, complete plant from the seed, but also ensure the longevity of the shrub.

Pests and diseases

Most often, wisteria is not attacked by pests or diseases. But, sometimes, it can be affected by the following ailments:

• Chlorosis. It appears due to the location of the bush in clay and limestone soil. The leaves turn white or lose their emerald color, turning yellow. You can get rid of the disease with the help of root dressing containing iron salts.
• Aphid. When harmful insects attack the shrub, the deformation of the shoots is observed. There is an excessive abundance of flies around the affected area, flocking to honeydew. It is emitted by parasites when they eat the juice of the leaves and buds of the vine. Treatment is carried out with insecticides in 2 stages: the first time - at the time of detection of the problem, the second time - after 10 days.
• Clover mite. The leaves take on a shade of bronze. Spraying with insecticide (Melathion) is carried out. It should be sprayed 2 times after 3 weeks.
• Renal blast. The disease affects the flower buds of the vines and the formed buds. They are covered with black mold. They should be urgently cut from the trunk along with the affected vine to a healthy area. It is recommended to burn the removed vines in order to avoid a greater spread of the disease.

Thus, in order for wisteria to feel comfortable on the site, you need to follow some rules for planting from seeds, pruning, feeding and watering. The main thing is to constantly monitor the healthy look of the shrub. At the first sign of pests, it is advised to take extreme control measures.

There is no more beautiful liana in the world than wisteria wisteria. Its luxurious bunches of flowers form heavenly domes filled with a wondrous scent. Famous gardens in Japan and China are not complete without wisteria, people "open their mouths" from the beauty of this plant. Once having seen the plant splendor, the gardener firmly decides to grow wisteria on the site. We will find out in more detail how to do this.

What is wisteria and what does it look like

Lat. Wisteria

The plant belongs to the legume family, perennial. Lianas grow up to 30-40 m in length and are tree-like branches entwining the trunk of the host or any other support.

In adult form, the vines thicken so much that the trunk of the tree on which the wisteria is located dies. Wisteria strangles trees and is considered a parasite in nature. Stitches the support strictly to the hour hand. The plant blooms from June to October, depending on the region of growth.

Inflorescences form a raceme of violet, white or lilac color. Vines begin to bloom at 4-5 years of age, sometimes at 3. The length of flower clusters reaches 70 cm. Wisteria grows very slowly, its average lifespan is 100 years. Therefore, it is worth giving her a place where she could grow for more than a dozen years. The foliage of the plant is dense, the leaves are large, feathery and reach a length of 30 cm.

The main habitat of wisteria is the subtropics, South America, Japan, China. She loves warmth, moisture and long daylight hours. In the northern regions, wisteria is grown in greenhouses and winter gardens.

The most popular types of wisteria in horticulture are Chinese and Japanese, abundant flowering. It is worth considering one drawback of wisteria - it is a poisonous plant. Do not grow it in the case of closely spaced groundwater.

It is not so difficult to grow wisteria from seeds on the site. The main thing is to provide her with the conditions of "living" and take care of the insidious beauty.

Growing conditions for wisteria

Since wisteria is a southern plant, it needs to be provided with appropriate conditions. The site should be selected so that the wisteria is under the rays of the sun for almost the entire day.She loves sunny and even hot places, but humid enough.

House decorated with wisteria

Wisteria does not tolerate drafts, this must be taken into account when growing in greenhouses, where draft is a frequent phenomenon. When outdoors, select an area protected from strong winds. The main condition for growing vines is a reliable support. In nature, the plant twines around trees and lives on them, multiplies.

In the conditions of the site, it is necessary to build something similar. It is better to dig the bases into the ground and fill them with cement mortar, that is, they must be strong, otherwise the plant will squeeze them already in the second or third year of life. The mass of mature thickets can reach 100 tons in large growing areas. Keep this in mind.

If you plan to grow a shtambovka tree and keep it at home in the winter, you should adhere to the same conditions. In winter, the room temperature should be no higher than 13 °.

It is imperative to observe the temperature regime, otherwise the whimsical beauty may wither or die. The substrate for wisteria should be nutritious and loose.

Observing the simple growing conditions, it will be much easier for the gardener to cope with the capricious wisteria.

Propagation of wisteria by seeds

Liana can be propagated in many ways - by cuttings, shoots, grafts or seeds.

Consider the safest and easiest way - seeds. They can always be found in a specialist gardening store.

In order to successfully grow wisteria seedlings, it is necessary to prepare the seeds before planting.

Blooming wisteria

You can do this already in December-January. The plant grows very slowly. Having planted the seeds in December, the seedlings will be ready for open field planting by May.

Soak the beans in wet cheesecloth for a while. Constantly check the readiness of the seeds - they should swell and hatch a little. Those who have been growing legumes will find it much easier to determine when the seeds are ripe and ready for planting.

While the beans are in damp gauze, you should prepare the substrate for wisteria seedlings, which is important for the successful growing of seedlings.

Soil preparation

A fertile and light substrate is prepared for seedlings. It is better to do this in advance and take care of the soil from the summer. To prepare the soil for wisteria, three parts of leafy earth, one part of turf and one part of sand are mixed. Many gardeners add peat to the soil for wisteria. However, it acidifies the earth, which the plant does not like. Therefore, it is best not to experiment with adding peat.

The ready-to-use mixture can be purchased at garden stores. But it's safer to cook everything yourself. So the grower will know for sure about the composition of the soil and its suitability. Humus can be added to the substrate as an organic fertilizer. The bottom of the container is lined with expanded clay or broken brick.

Drainage will provide good moisture permeability, which wisteria loves very much.

Having prepared the soil, you can safely start planting the swollen beans. It's easy to do, the main thing is to observe the planting process, its technology.

Landing

Wisteria seeds are planted in the ground without deepening. The beans are covered with earth 1 cm thick, no more. A pot or box with planted seeds is covered with foil or glass. The containers are stored in a dark place. The air temperature in the room where wisteria seeds germinate should be 22 ° -25 °. The first sprouts appear after 30-40 days, depending on the type and variety of the plant.

Seeds are planted in December or January. The main condition for the successful emergence of seedlings is compliance with the temperature regime and the rules for caring for seedlings.

Seedling care

As soon as the seeds are in the ground, the seedlings need to be monitored and looked after in a timely manner. Watering the soil is a prerequisite for the germination of beans. The soil should always be moist, but not soggy.

Wisteria garden

Be sure to remove the formed condensation on the film or glass, ventilate the container. If you do not follow this simple rule, a fungus may appear on the sprouts that appear. This disease can lead to the death of seedlings.

The two formed leaves serve as a signal for the start of hardening of the seedlings - adaptation to the sun.

Gradually accustom the sprouts to light by exposing the container to a western or eastern window sill for several hours. Young plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

Before transplanting into open ground, the seedlings are hardened in the fresh air, taking the containers for the day to the balcony or garden.

Seedlings need to be fed with a complex of mineral fertilizers once every three weeks. Agronomists recommend generally dispensing with one-time feeding of seedlings immediately after the appearance of the first three leaves. The next fertilization will be in the open field after transplanting.

Follow simple rules of care. So the seedlings will develop successfully, prepare for the transplant and survive it perfectly.

Transplant to open ground

Transplanting seedlings is carried out at the end of May, when the soil has warmed up, and the threat of frost has passed. For this, the pit and soil are prepared in the place chosen for the wisteria. The size of the recess for the plant is 60x60 cm, the depth is 50 cm.

The soil is mixed with humus, mineral fertilizers and sand are added. Instead of humus, you can use compost - wisteria will appreciate it. The soil should be fertile and loose with good drainage.

Wisteria grown from sprouts

Some gardeners cover the transplanted young seedlings with foil. However, it is not advisable to do this, the sprouts will adapt poorly. If the place is chosen correctly, there is no strong wind, the site is sunny, there will be no problems with adaptation. Wisteria tolerates transplanting quite well. The main thing is to properly prepare the soil.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50 cm. Keep in mind that the plant is poisonous. Do not place wisteria near vegetable crops or fruit trees, ponds with fish.

Having transplanted the seedlings to the permanent habitat of wisteria, the gardener will only have to properly care for the southern miracle and form vines in time.

Adult plant care

Wisteria grows slowly, so in the first years of life, the gardener will only need to feed the plant and water it. Later, wisteria must be formed and directed. Timely pruning promotes more lush flowering and thicker greenery.

Top dressing

The first application of mineral or organic fertilizer is carried out immediately after planting the seedlings, if humus and other nutrients have not been added to the soil. The second feeding is carried out during the bud ovary period.

For a simpler orientation in the frequency of fertilizing, it is enough to remember one rule - mineral and organic fertilizers are applied to the soil alternately every 15 days from spring to August. Nitrogen preparations are applied only in May and June. July, August - phosphate-potash fertilizers.

Top dressing is especially important in the first years of the plant's life. At the 5th year of life, the frequency of fertilization is reduced to once a month.

Pruning

In the first year of wisteria's life, it is necessary to prune if you want to achieve lush flowering.

Formed wisteria

The procedure is optional, but many gardeners prefer to do it. The main stem is trimmed to a strong bud, and the shoots are also trimmed. In the second year of life, the same procedure is done.

In the third year, the plant begins to form additional leading stems. They need to be trimmed to a strong bud. Shoots are cut off. If overgrowth has formed, it is removed. In all subsequent years, pruning occurs in the same way, without changes.

This will create lush and dense vegetation that beautifully wraps around an arch or tree trunk. Pruning does not need to be carried out; this is left to the discretion of the gardener.However, this procedure organizes the bushes and introduces some order.

Shelter for the winter

Young plants must be closed for the winter. To do this, you need to prepare spruce branches, mulch and covering material. The soil is thoroughly spilled with rainwater. Closed with a layer of mowed grass or bark mulch with a layer of 15 cm.

Spruce branches are laid on the ground around the wisteria bush. Vines are laid on it from supports, that is, the branches of the plant should not touch the ground. From above, the wisteria is again closed with spruce branches and covering material. If the winters are too harsh, it is advisable to cover the plant with a wooden box. Adult bushes, from 8 years old, do not need to be covered like this. However, in the northern regions, it is advisable to always close wisteria for the winter.

Her further development will depend on how the beauty is sheltered for the winter. Plants often do not tolerate too low temperatures - -30 °, -35 °. Therefore, many breeders grow it in flowerpots in the form of a trunk tree, which can be brought indoors for the winter.

While watching the video, you will learn about the cultivation of wisteria.

Observing all the rules of care, lush flowering and a fabulous look will be provided. Growing wisteria from seeds is a fun and exciting experience. If you do everything according to the rules, you will be able to grow an amazing southern liana - the most beautiful in the world!

Vines